By now many MMR owners have taken possession of their games. Although MMR was created to look and play like the original, it has its differences that are unique. This thread is dedicated to the owners of MMR to discuss anything associated with MMR.
Quoted from Olddragon:
Can I join if I am still waiting for my black?
absolutely since the topics discussed will eventually impact you. I absolutely love my MMR but the one thing that bugs me is the scoop for Merlin's castle. I get it in maybe once every 5 shots. Maybe there is a way to adjust it.
Quoted from labnip:
MMR/LE repair kit i've been keeping updated with all known issues with the new pin.
hope it helps someone
Great job on the repair end of things, I will be looking forward to the mods that will be eventually coming our for MMR and hope that people can post them here so we can be all aware of them. I saw someone create a Williams logo to be placed on the speaker panel to look like the original, it was sweet.
What do you guys think of Mike Chestnut's gold MMr trimming?
I like it. Game is Imeh's
Quoted from johngravenews:
Any thoughts from owners? Do any of you have any regrets at all? Anyone in the camp of "it's OK but I'm bored with it after a month"?
Any feedback appreciated. I've been going back and forth on this one for the last couple of months and really can't make my mind up.
I can honestly say that this is an amazing pin and well worth the price and wait. I love this pin so much that I will be getting all of Chicago gaming/PPS games in the future. When guests come who are non pinheads ,so no bias based on ratings, they naturally gravitate to the MMR. I played an old MM a couple of months ago and almost cancelled my order. I'm so glad I didn't. Its my favorite pin and have absolutely no regrets at all with it.
I think the sound from the stock speakers are quite good, I may install an external sub if anything.
Lets see some High scores on MMR. I got the King of Payne and Royal madness in the same game.
Most of the issues are common NIB stuff. The vast majority can be solved by the owner like loose connectors etc. Mine has absolutely no problems so far, knock on wood. The latest issue trending is the slingshot chipping of the playfield which I honestly don't think is that big a deal from most of the pics I have seen. I wouldn't have noticed if it wasn't pointed out to me. I just have to say that PPS/CG did an amazing job on MMR and I will definitely look forward to their other re-releases.
I'm not sure what criteria they use to who gets pins shipped to them. I am very surprised that a large number of games made it to Canada from the first batch. I was told that the demand for MMR was overwhelming and that many of the resellers were allotted half of what they ordered and were not extended reseller discounts. In some cases they sold more MMR's than were available. In theory the easiest course of action would be to double up the numbers of the LE's and hopefully nobody would notice. Labnip is keeping a record of the numbers with owners so at least that course would be difficult for them to get away with. I think there was one doubling found, hopefully it was a typo. In the end, the longer you wait, you get a machine with many of the issues ironed out already.
I saw my son playing with his medieval figurines that he absolutely loves more than anything else and I thought that they would make wonderful additions to MMR. So I waited until he went to school and seized the opportunity to drill them, attach a few brackets to them and mount them to the game. I think they made for a great mod. My son will get over it in a few months or so but look how nice they look.
Thanks guys, I might add a peasant, and I had a catapult that was really nice but it was just too big. The wizard looks so much like the castle wizard I just couldn't resist. I'm trying to figure out what my next mod should be. Man MMR is such an awesome machine, I'm definitely getting all of CG/PPS rereleases.
I put these balls in my MMr , I'm not sure if it was necessary or even recommended but as long as it does no harm than its ok i guess.
I don't know if its a cheat but I'm simply going to leave the Merlin scoop alone because it allows me to complete all the different madnesses before I actually want to shoot it in Merlin scoop. If it really bugs me in the future I will add some dead soft foam to the back of the scoop. I think the addition of a few spot lights is a great Idea.
Sweet welcome to the Club !!! Wow in Stainless too. I just bought some spotlights and will do the Frolic mod this weekend.
So it looks like the colorization of MMr is in the works and is expected to be done by Oct of this year. Based on the hardware that CGC has to work with, the colorization has the potential to be absolutely spectacular. I'm betting they are really going to wow us. Hopefully Rick can come in here to update us owners on its progress. I'm stoked.
The usual guys that bash MMr like Teekee and RobT, I understand their pain. Look at their collections an you will typically find at least one potential remake pin like MB or AFT. They are bitter because they lost a lot of money and lash out at MMr and their owners. O-din is actually not a bad guy and judging by his collection, is a bit of an enigma for me in that I don't understand why he actively slams MMr. He doesn't fit the typical MMr basher. Maybe one day I'll pm him to find out what is really bugging him.
I just got through video mode and killed over 20 birds. An EE with wings appeared, its a shame I didn't kill it but I was wondering what that was or did?
Quoted from Imeh:
I have not made it to video mode on MMr yet..
The factory settings are set too hard. I think you need to spell fire 7 times or something. I dropped it to its minimum amount I think 3 which gives me a video mode every 15-20 games I play. frequent enough to enjoy yet rare enough to keep it a special treat.
CGC specializes in video games. I wonder if they would look at that video mode and want to beef it up to something really cool. They certainly have the hardware to do so.
Wow I just woke up this morning to see the new animations...holy crap they are so amazing. It was weird that I was speculating just an hour before the announcement and then wham. This is excellent news for all of us owners and a big shout out to CGC for this upgrade.
You can easily attach extra lighting to the existing GI. I fed the spotlight wires through then attached clips to them then clipped to an existing nearby GI under playfield with no problems. I personally like my games brighter. I'm not aware of any more mods that can only work with MM that MMr doesn't already have or is on the way except for lit troll eyes. Even that if you got the guts to drill them out yourself and fish the wires through, it too can be done again attached to existing GI's.
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:
I posted this in another MMR thread but this seems to be more active so thought posting again
Has anyone installed flipper button/cabinet protectors, the transparent kind that does not ruin the decal and can be peeled off?
Any recommendations, I only saw ones for Stern but not sure if they'll work
I did for one of my other machines but I don't think its worth it if its HUO. It's some kind of mylar and difficult to peel off.
Quoted from epthegeek:
Subtle change Sunday: I replaced the stock white flipper bats with yellow to better blend with the plastics & PF art in that area.
Yellow looks great
Quoted from yancy:
Opened mine last night, flippers felt strong enough. After I played a few games, they felt a bit weak for some reason. I doubt anything changed except for my perception. Turned them up to +3 and they feel strong, but not silly strong. I keep my games super steep, so that's probably a factor.
Congrats on the new game. What angle are you keeping the pins at. 6.5 degrees pitch is what I keep it at and it seems to flow pretty good.
I'm on the fence regarding the 3D translite, just not sure how the back lighting will affect it. Maybe a special lighting mod may be needed in the backbox to enhance it like in the tron 3D translite.
Nice job Reg on that trim, looks beautiful. Maybe I will do the same but for now I feel too attached to my "odd gold" edition.
I got a bag of chunks of my stairs that the delivery guys gouged bringing the pin to my basement. It was the most incompetent pin delivery I have ever seen. I normally move pins myself but for warranty issues and for MMR in particular I let them bring it downstairs for me and set it up just in case there were problems. They shoved my other pins aside while they were still plugged in and busted the outlet that they were attached to as well as severely bending the plugs on 2 of my machines.
I set it to its minimum and for the last 8 months, I only got video mode 2 times with one being from Merlins castle. Would be nice if they could fix that on the update to make it available after spelling FIRE 3X or something like that. I think that is the right spot.
Quoted from metallik:
5 FIREs is only 20 bottom inlane rollovers. 20 ramp shots or random feeds from the playfield. Not too hard. You have to pay attention and make sure you score a letter from every ramp shot.
I actually never thought of that, I was simply relying on the accidental rollovers when the ball went to the outlanes. I still think an option to set it at 3X would be good since I have never seen any of my guests ever get that video mode. Some of my guests are league guys as well and they have never done it either at 5X. Besides, don't you like seeing that farmer pitchfork those turkeys or whatever the hell those three pixels are.
Quoted from LitzDoc:
Okay that is good to know. Maybe I will place and order. How many LEs have been produced? Is the run almost done?
1000 LE's were made and are currently sold out. You can order the Standard edition which are only available by pre-order through your local retailer or PPS. With the rate at which they are being made you might get one by Christmas.
Digital levels are a must for any pin collection. Sterns set at 6.5 degrees perfectly every time.
Those balls sure fly around a lot. my pf is starting to look like the surface of the moon.
Quoted from MT45:
Not liking the big blank spot on my new MMR below the DMD area ... so I created a simple graphic in Photoshop. Scaled it to size, then to test print, cut it in half in Photoshop (because the graphic is almost 14" wide), printed on 2 pieces of high grade photo paper and mounted using 2 sided tape. I wish one of the licensed guys would make these in nice HQ glossy vinyl!
Sorry guys I'm not making these and will not make them for anyone at any cost - copyrighted stuff
absolutely love it. Butif you won't take my cash can you at least teach us how to do it.
Quoted from Animal:
I have read here that some find the shoutouts are too low in the sound mix. I found them a bit low until I added a subwoofer to my machine. Although, I think the difference was from the capacitor I put in place for the subwoofer. Now the shoutouts have nice separation c\learly coming from the cabinet speakers, more clearly.
I added a polk audio PSW10 to my MMR. It made the sound much deeper and richer. I would recommend it. You can actually "feel" the hit of the castle.
Quoted from MT45:
The way I attached them is the same way I do on most figures or added items ... E6000. Strong mount, not permanent, adhesive seal can easily be broken away and no harm done to machine. Just a dot or 2 of it holds nicely. Simply twist and pull to remove. Peel off any remaining residue
I drilled and screwed brackets on my figurines then simply attached them to any of the existing screws that were closest to where I wanted to place them. The shaker motor really does a number on anything that isn't fastened very well on the machine so for me screw is better than glue.
Quoted from Rat:
Could you please add a couple of pictures showing how you wired it in and mounted it?
Unscrew the 4 nuts holding the speaker and the mesh under it. Get a piece of speaker wire about 10 feet long and fish about 2 feet of it under the mesh from under the cab. Attach alligator clamps to each of the 2 wires inside the cab, one red and one black. Clip each of the wires to the different poles of the speaker. Just make sure you don't mix polarity keep blacks with blacks and whites with whites. Finally attach the other end to the back of the sub. Adjust the sub to your taste.
Some of you may get a rattle sound when adding the sub. The solution is to simply put one or two strips of masking tape along the edge of the glass and trim off the excess. No more rattle and all the great rich bass sound.
Quoted from Animal:
Ummm, dont you want the speaker wires going to "speaker level In"?
Works absolutely perfect the way its input, so if it ain't broke don't fix All my machines are set up the same way with polk audio psw 10's under them. You can hook 2 machines per speaker as well but you lose the fine tuning you get with each if you do that. Since one pin might need more bass than another than it decreases the optimum effect.
Quoted from mtdouble:
So I know diffuser kits are going to be shipped soon but I have not heard anything in regards to the software coding to dim the led brightness, is this not happening now?
Latest I heard that its all being put into the same code update and that the code is essentially complete, not sure what the delay is for.
Quoted from surfajl77:
I'll be joining the MMR club very soon. I just plopped down a 1K deposit on a standard edition (from Game Room Guys) with shaker motor installed. I was way too late to jump on the LE train, so I'll just settle for the standard since it doesn't seem like I'll be missing out on anything.
I'm still learning pinball tech, so I'm not really very skilled at mods, fixes, and adjustments - I usually rely on other people for help. Since this will be my first new game, I'm hoping to just be able to enjoy it for awhile and not worry about much. But I did have a few initial questions that I wanted to ask.
1 - Mirror blades. Are they a good fit for MMR or are they too tight of a fit? I have some mirror blades on my Star Wars Data East. While they look good, I basically can't lift the playfield up without a very high risk of them getting scraped up. Is it easier with MMR or are most people just leaving them alone?
2 - Cliffy protectors. I know MM has a pretty big set of cliffy's available. I've always been one who likes to take precautions against future wear. Are they really needed or does the clearcoated playfield provide enough protection that I won't need to worry?
I probably won't have mine until summer, but definitely looking forward to it!
I like mine
Cliffy's are a very controversial subject. Some swear by them while others think its overkill. I personally think in a HUO environment that its not really necessary. Maybe after 15-20 years of use there will some wear and by that time you are ready to buy MMRLE2.0 VE. I'm already on the preorder list.
I think you need a PHD to follow those instructions. It really goes to section L with multiple steps in each section. No thanks, I'd rather live with the overly bright insert lights.
I did BFTK and beat it on my birthday. First and only time with otal play time about 50 mins . I still remember that final scene of the king of payne's eyes and screaming as his castle was destroyed. Took me at least an hour after to get off that adrenaline rush. I too was shaking. I will be celebrating my one year anniversary with MMR, maybe I will get a cake with candles.
Best game in the universe!
Quoted from erak:
Mmr is amazing.
Amazing build quality, amazing gameplay.
The machine is a work of art.
I'm so glad I sold my Stern ST. And changed my mind about putting the money on a ghostbusters premium. I decided on a proven game, MM.
#1 for a reason.
With updated dots it's going to be even more amazing.
Welcome to the club of the most amazing pinball machine in the universe!
AC/DC and TWD are great games as well, certainly in my top 10 but did not strike a cord with me the way MMR does. I just didn't like the theme of TWD will all those zombies, I have small children that hate zombies. AFM is good too and will definitely be getting AFMR but MMR has a bit more going for it. Now TAF I had for a month and had to get rid of it. I figured a way to shoot the bear ramp then to uncle fester. I was able to tour the mansion every game I played and averaged over 1 billion every game. My high score was 2.6 billion with very little effort. Shame I found that exploit because I really liked the callouts.
Have you tried MMR with a 10"sub?......sweet.
Quoted from erak:Shaker motor. And that's all.
So no rumble for the castle blowing up.
Catapult firing, or troll modes.
There is no point ordering a Standard.
My local distributor has 5 gold LE's in stock for sale.
Standards will be months until they start shipping. Why tie up money for a game that is available now?
1000 machines isn't really a LE
Don't let those still waiting, or the hype fool you.
Great game, get a LE.
Shaker motor and a discount on the color dots.
And available now.
Agreed, I really don't understand why they bother with the standard. seems like the 1000 LE's is just about the right amount to meet the demand. They will probably sell about 250 standards though which I suppose is actually more "limited".
There is absolutely no doubt that the slow pace of manufacturing these pins has really pissed off a lot of people to the point where many walked away from their preorders. You really can't blame them, I would walk too if I had to wait 2 years for Ghostbusters or any other pin for that matter. That's why some distributors have a few LE's available including Starburst in Toronto having 4 of them.
Its best for CGC to limit future titles to 1000 units, make them QUICKLY and move on to the next title. Timing is everything, if CGC had completed 2000 units 2 years ago, they would have completely sold out. I just hope for CGC sake that they have learned from this experience and made the necessary changes for their next release.
Quoted from Pimp77:
The bottom of the cab isn't thicker, but rather plywood instead of MDF.
I know I know, but the fact that the bottom is made of plywood just seems to make it a different game. I'm playing the game and Im saying "wow I can really feel the effect of the plywood instead of MDF on the bottom of this pin". I walk down the street and strangers come up to me and say "hey you are the guy with plywood under your cab instead of MDF, can I have your autograph!". Birds chirp and land on my shoulder and flowers seem to bloom too as I walk by. Sometimes I sleep under my MMr looking up at the plywood too. Yup, I don't know what life would be like if I didn't have that plywood under my MMr.
Wow that looks sick erak! Nice job on those troll eyes. How much was the second set and where did you get them from?
Quoted from AliciaC:
I've had pretty decent luck with tickets being responded to. Our MMR LE was shipped with a manufacturing defect in which the right backbox head was scraped. Doug just sent us a new decal. When asked how I was supposed to install it, I was told to check YouTube. BS customer service. How about fix your shit packaging and sprinkle in a smile with customer service. When paying $8K plus for a toy, it should be new; not in factory seconds condition.
That really sucks, well at least they didn't send you a giant box full of parts and ask you to put together your own MMr.
Its probably best to wait until V2.1 since the 2.0 has a minor issue with the flippers altering the lighting.
Rut from what I understand according to Rick, the V2.1 will be out in a day. So no need to rush. And after that, it would be best for the early adopters of the new code to "test" it for all of us. Last thing we need is a code update that actually makes things worse.
If you didn't notice any problems with your MMR like tearing, overly bright inserts, Date Time Stamp resetting every once in a while then you wouldn't notice any difference with the new code. Some claimed the sound was clearer but I didn't hear a problem with it before anyway. I think this new code was to address those minor issues but mainly to have everyone have the colorization code on their machines to be turned on at a later date presumably when CGC has figured a way to charge for it. We are still not sure if that will be a hardware or software driven solution.
Quoted from AliciaC:
In the CGC menu, second page at the bottom is a " Colorization Enabled " statement. Either states Not Enabled or Enabled. Would be much more cost effective for CGC to make this a software update that the end user can install vs. a hardware update. Oh wait a minute, it doesn't matter because I'm sure the cost will be passed to MMR owners.
I agree, software is an easier and much more cost effective way to enable colorization but given the demographics of the pinball community, a software solution would be hacked within days. A proprietary hardware solution is the only way to ensure that it would not be hacked and that the maximum number of people purchase the colorization.
So pricing has finally come out on colorization. $199 for LE owners and $399 for Standard owners. I think that it's fair considering that its not just colorization but a complete redraw of the animations and they threw the early LE owners a bone with a discount.
The release statement says top go to planetary's website but I cant find anywhere where I can buy the upgrade. Online Store?
The colorization has been ready for some time now, I think they will meet the deadline of a week or two. Not sure if I registered yet but I re-registered just in case. I want that colorization soooooo bad.
So is knocking to indicate that the software has been successfully updated and that results in a blown F4?
Quoted from jrockne:
And this is why I love pinball:
I don't consider myself a great pinball player by any stretch, so when games go good it is very exciting! I was playing today and had 51mil on ball 1. by ball 3 I had just "The King of Payne" left to destroy... I dropped the draw bridge, started castle multiball, and went for the gate... I destroy the gate and before i have a chance to make the final shot... Boom, all the balls drain! I couldn't believe it. Regardless, it was still an exciting game to me and the reason I love playing these machines!
Hope everyone is enjoying it this much too!
And it gets better especially when you battle for the kingdom and hear the blood curdling screams of the King of Payne being destroyed...priceless...errr $8000US.
That phone takes some awesome pics and I must say that you have chosen your subject material wisely.
Quoted from TaylorVA:
Happened 2 days in a row
It seems strange how some people have the date/time issue more frequently than others. I personally had it 4 times over a 1 year period. Assuming that the games are identical, I wonder if a difference in line voltage has an effect on it. I only have 2 games per circuit. Taylor, how many machines do you have on the same circuit as your MMR?
Quoted from TaylorVA:
Could it be that there is something else on that line such as AC/Furnace, bar fridge etc or even a couple of power hungry EM's. Sometimes electricians cheap out and put several outlets all over a basement on the same circuit. I had that problem and the Time/date stamp problem seemed to occur in that environment. Since then I had an electrician come over and put dedicated circuits with each outlet connected to its own circuit all over my basement. Its been 4 months now and still no date/time stamp issue.
Quoted from pintechev:
It's likely related to the RTC; I don't think this is purely a software issue, but you never know.
I agree, this doesn't seem like a software issue. If it was then we should all be experiencing the issue exactly the same with the same frequency. My suspicion is that the onboard ram of the beaglebone is much more sensitive to voltage fluctuations than the standard WPC boards and even a slight drop in voltage somehow corrupts the stored data on that ram.
Quoted from KloggMonkey:
Yeah there is a cliffy but I can see that nothing is touching.
I agree with mschonbrun, its possible that the cliffy is impinging the catapult arm closest to its fulcrum preventing it from making its full swing forward. I had a similar problem with my Tron in that it prevented a switch from coming up all the way. Try removing it and see if it returns to normal. Looking from the top of the catapult check alignment with the wireframe. Some of the shots in the video are clearly sending the ball off the rails which may suggest a possible alignment problem. Can you take a picture looking straight down the catapult from the top without the ball? Mine is actually slightly to the left of the center of the wireframe. Definitely remove the cliffy first before doing anything more invasive.
Quoted from KloggMonkey:
That may be true, but it works 100% fine as I have it with the cliffy installed. It doesn't hit the wireform early like at the other strength settings.
It it going to break the game to leave the catapult strength at max?
If not, why wouldn't I leave it max and not take all of that stuff apart again.
I think the real question to ask is was the catapult working before you took it apart and installed the cliffy? If so then the problem is not with the coil but with how you put everything back.
Quoted from PW79:
I expect the first run to have hiccups. Just wondering if they've been fixed more or less.
Few of my buddies bought one, none have reported any problems except one that had a connector come loose during transport. It was a 2 min fix and the machine was good to go. They are really happy with their purchases.
Just installed the color upgrade......WOW! Super easy install with no problems to report. I didn't realize that the princesses are all different. Kudos to PPS/CGC for making this available.
Quoted from PPS:
I'm happy to report that MMR Shaker motor kits are in and ready to ship right away
I wonder if its worth stocking up on some unique items just in case they may not be available in the future such as a playfield, beaglebone or some of the boards etc. I figure its better to have NOS then a repro 20 years from now. Can't hurt to have a spare.
Quoted from garyh999:
Joined the club this week. This is an absolutely wonderful pinball machine. Very fun and it looks great. I was wondering if anybody has any ideas on lighting or illuminating the dragon? Seems like it's kind of in the dark and needs more lighting. Maybe there's a mod or a kit out there to light the dragon? Any ideas? Thanks!
Congratulations, and welcome to the club. I added some spotlights over the slings which gives the PF more illumination. Its an easy install and ties into the GI lighting.
It's an absolute rush when you are in the zone with this game and to defeat the king of Payne is priceless. I absolutely love this game, CGC/PPS really hit a home run with this machine. I hope they announce their next re-release at expo next week. I can't believe there hasn't been any leaks as to what the next one will be. Usually by now there have been a few pin heads diving into dumpsters outside of CGC/PPS headquarters going through thrown out receipts looking for clues but so far it's still a mystery. Oh well, at least we don't need to post a video and fill an application as to why they should sell us their next pin.
Quoted from Mike_M:
No announcements at Expo this year. Rumor is they can't come to an agreement with Stern for contract manufacturing of the next remake so it may be awhile.
I hope they can resolve it however there are other options available to them including JJP, Heighway and possibly Spooky or American Pinball. All of them would love the boost. After seeing the new pins at expo, I'm leaning towards a more full featured revamp of the classic titles with LCD screens with HD animations, Bill Ung saucer mod as standard etc.
Quoted from FlippyD:
I'm thinking of buying one of these but am concerned over build quality. Is the talk of poor playfields a consistent problem or just a one in a hundred thing?
The playfields are not directly from Stern and Stern resolved their playfield issue. It was due to insufficient time for cure and rushing the games out. Playfields need 3 months to fully cure period. Failure to allow the playfields to cure will lead to premature wear, gouges, flaking and ghosting. Stern should have known this.
The MMR playfields, the cabinets as well as any future remakes come from Churchill Cabinet Company which has been in business since 1904. Churchill Cabinet Company was purchased about 35 years ago by Roger Duba now operating as Chicago Gaming. Chicago Gaming has been a major manufacturer of cabinets and playfields and knows the business of pinball manufacturing extremely well. I'm absolutely confident that they will find a solution and will ensure that the next remake will be made with the highest of standards. Purchase with confidence, Chicago Gaming makes a great product and you do not need to worry.
Quoted from Manic:
Maybe you missed it but try telling the 75-100 MMr customers that got stuck with a factory second PF (that's what PF's with defects are called) and were told they would have to live with it. Now they have a machine worth considerably less than the other "lucky" MMr owners.
Manic, let me start by saying that if you or any MMR owner had problems with your MMR that I understand how you feel. You are right that no one should feel completely confident in anything in this world except for death and taxes.
Some of your statements however were exaggerated. 75-100 MMr customers stuck with factory seconds has never been stated anywhere and is pure speculation. I assume you are referring to the henchmen white inserts being difficult to read. Chicago Gaming has released a diffuser kit free of charge that has taken care of most of the problem ones. In some cases it has been documented that replacement playfields were given out at tremendous discounts to those with significant problems.
One of those guys that got a replacement PF not only sold his MMR at full price but was asking $1000 for the replacement PF and said the original one wasn't that bad.
Quoted from Manic:
Now they have a machine worth considerably less than the other "lucky" MMr owners.
Chicago Gaming's actions seem to contradict your statement.
Quoted from Manic:
Rather than do the right thing and print some more proper PF's for their "valued" customers they chose to save every penny and make the customer eat the mistake.
You quote me yet you omit the history of Churchill Cabinet Company and Chicago Gaming only to replace it with "sales propaganda removed". I found this to be disingenuous on your part. That factual information was a key reason why I felt confident with CGC and to illustrate that they are not a fly-by-night, Mickey Mouse company that decided to make a pin in their backyard.
I am not saying that I guarantee that every single thing coming out of CGC will be perfect but based on their long history and with the overwhelming majority of MMR owners with positive experiences, I feel confident that CGC can deliver a quality product.
I posted a while back suspecting line voltage as the suspected cause and have not heard anyone having a problem until now. Has anyone had a Date Time Stamp error with their machine plugged into a dedicated circuit? I used to get them until I plugged mine into one and have not had a Date Time Stamp since. Its been about 9 months and still going strong with no error. Don't just look at other machines plugged into the same circuit but look at other things like furnaces, bar fridges, AC units etc. Theoretically you should not have more than 3 machines per 15 amp circuit. I suspect that MMr is more sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
Quoted from Rarehero:
I was told to change my battery and my ticket was closed. I changed it....and last week I got the Date/Time dot again.
Quoted from PPS:
Bling for your wings on MMR ...
Unable to open link, anyone else have a problem opening the link. Sweet looking wings though.
Quoted from Rarehero:
Any chance for a translucent dragon? There's a flasher inside the dragon, but you don't even really see it...if that flasher could actually light up the dragon, that would be rad!
I ordered that gold MMr wing. My thinking is to put a spot beneath it shining up at it. Theoretically the wings should sparkle. I will keep you posted once it arrives.
Quoted from Pinzap:
Obviously my search of the forum wasn't very complete. I should have stuck with my gut instinct that surely this had been discussed at length. Sorry for wasting bandwidth, but thanks for going easy on me and providing knowledge and links to bring me up to speed. Be patient... I'll get there eventually (not sure where "there" is, but I'm having fun with the journey anyway).
No problem we are here to help. Now go and enjoy you MMr.
Quoted from stangbat:
Time and date not set error two times in the last two days. This was after replacing the battery a couple of months ago.
Dedicated outlet fixed mine, no problems for over a year. I plugged it in on a line with four other machines the other day and got the date/time error within a week.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:
That's really odd, I don't see the connection at all but stranger things have happened.
I have seen that in a few of my Bally/Williams games where the line voltage drops or fluctuates, it can lead to reset issues. So when I had my electrician do a bunch of dedicated plugs in my basement to correct those older games I put MMR on one too and accidentally noticed that the Date/ Time error never returned. Then I was moving some pins around and put MMR with 4 others on a power bar away from an area I was working on and the error occurred within a week, along with a reset on my NGG. My theory is that something with the electronics is very sensitive to line voltage fluctuations. The probability of it working for a year on a dedicated line and only one week on a shared outlet being a coincidence is extremely low. As long as it works, it doesn't really matter I suppose.
Quoted from per3per3:
It looks like I'll be joining the club sometime next week! I know that a lot of folks have been underwhelmed by the quality of the stock speakers and the sound in general...some folks say it sounds kinda hollow. I was curious what speaker/sub upgrades people have had luck with? Flipper Fidelity vs. Pinball Pro vs. Other?
I put in Kicker 43DSC504 DS in the backbox and installed a Polk Audio PSW10 10" sub external sub. Sounds crisper and with deeper base especially when you hit the castle. Very easy installation too. I decided to replace the speakers on all my Bally/Williams as well.
Quoted from Bobsolete:
It only looks like it's grounded to the plastic. It's actually grounded to the metal speaker grill.
yes grounded to metal
Quoted from chrisnack:
You have to change the wiring, otherwise you are running 2 ohms which we don't know if the amp can handle or not.
Its been about 4 months now, no problems and sounds fantastic. If you really are going to lose sleep over it then re-wire but I have done all my Bally/Williams in the same manner except I removed the capacitor that filters out the lows on the right speaker for them. Keep it simple, it works fine and enjoy the great new sound.
Quoted from per3per3:
What up MMr folks, I have finally joined the club and I'm excited to have one of these bad boys at my place!
I have a few questions regarding gameplay and adjustments now that I've put some time in:
1) The right troll head isn't secured into its mechanism properly and is basically a bobblehead right now (it registers fine which is good). How do I adjust this to tighten it?
2) I'm noticing that the castle lock shot over the moat isn't reliably registering...is it an opto?
3) I had the castle wall open and needed the final shot to destroy the castle...but I missed and nailed the castle lock and it gave me credit for the castle being destroyed. That could have been my 3rd lock: does the game code give you the castle takedown or should this not have happened?
First off welcome to the club!
Now lets go through some of the issues. The opto may be misaligned or the connector is loose. Try reseating the connectors for the opto as they may have come loose during transport. Run switch test and see if the castle wall registers on the castle gate if so check alignment of optos.Point # 3 should not have happened. We need more info on the bobblehead troll.
I think it's nice that we all help each other out. We also need to understand that we are not all experts but enthusiasts that really enjoy pinball. That said we approach certain problems differently depending on our experiences and backgrounds. Some ways of doing things may be better than others or better put may be better in your hands than in the hands of others. We shouldn't feel that if an alternate opinion is presented that it's a personal attack. It's just that, an alternate opinion or way of doing things. I will use my example where I posted a really easy swap of the old speakers for kickers and posted pics also. An alternate opinion was presented where chrisnack suggested that I should rewire in parallel to not drop down to 2 ohms. He is theoretically correct and I am grateful that he mentioned it. In my hands the ease of install and the 4 month track record made it a viable option for others to do. People in this forum have 2 different ways of doing it, both work. Pulling Trolls out vs in through the hole is the same situation. Both clearly work and one may be better than the other for certain people. Bottom line is that alternate opinions and viewpoints are always welcome as long as its done with helping people in mind. Now everyone grab a beer and play some MMR.
Quoted from kapsreiter:
how can you remove the original side rails?
i want to use chrome rails, but i don't want to damage the cabinet decals?
whats the best trick?
To be perfectly honest, I was into the chrome and the gold armor but I found them to be to sharp to the touch and they get finger prints all over them very easily. I now am into Powder coating. I love the feel of powdercoated armor and lock down bar over stainless steel especially over the chrome. But if you insist on removing the side rails, its one nut near the front on the inside of the cab and you will need a very sharp spatula to help separate the 2 way tape that is applied. Slide the spatula from underneath and slowly push up to cut the tape. Keep the spatula flat at all times and it should not damage the art. Sterns are easier, just 3 or 4 screws holding the side rails.
Quoted from Damien:
So the machine is back up and working, but there's a hilarious story that goes along with it!
A tech from the store came by (btw very impressed with their timely service) and he started diagnosing the problem. He tried everything I had. Realigning, checking connection, loose soldering, etc.
He was scratching his head. He said he was baffled. Then by chance he just happened to have his hand above the sensor and noticed it changed from "open" to "closed".
He waved his hand back and force over it in the air and said, "this is some voodoo s#!+".
He looked up, turned to me and said, can you turn off the light.
And then it was! The stupid light was interfering with the sensor. It was not making it think it was "open" and balls were not registering. My fingers would usually work because I'd cover the light as I tried.
The two of us laughed hysterically when we realized this.
Anyhow, super nice guy and all is working now!
Glad you got it all worked out. Who did you deal with?
It appears as if the flipper shaft is not aligned with the flipper bushing. Unhook the spring and realign, test the flipper bat by hand, it should be passive with no resistance. Once everything is aligned slowly re-tighten , re-test to make sure there is no resistance, re hook the spring and enjoy you MMR.
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:
So, is production winding down on MMr? Just seen "last orders for MMr" from a distributor
Only speculation at this point but something seems to be up with Stern Vs CGC. If the next remake is being made by CGC in house, one might conclude that the relationship has significantly changed and that both parties want to wrap up the MMr production and move on. At least we got to enjoy the fruits of their collaborative efforts.
Quoted from SNES:
I know I read somewhere about people complaining about the side rails on MMR being sharp. People said they had used something to clean them up and now I can't find it. I cut a chunk out of my thumb when wiping down the side rail so I figured I should shave them down some before my two year old cuts herself on them. Anyone have any suggestions?
Can you give us a pic of exactly what spot is sharp.We can better assess the situation and offer a more informed solution. I only heard of this issue only once in another thread. Powder coating usually makes edges dull not sharp.
If it is where you are pointing ( on top), then there is little danger of damaging the side decals, 800 grit sandpaper on a sanding block should do the trick. remove the glass first because in that position you will scratch it.
Quoted from Lermods:
My outlanes are factory, no particular issues with outlane drains, seems normal. I go after the castle when i mb and the ball save running.
Nothing wrong with adjusting the outlanes as you and your family see fit. As the skills get better then you can consider opening up the outlanes.
Its great to see an MMR on location and the reactions people have to it. Some of the criticisms people have about MMr is that its an "old game" and that people should get the newest and latest games. Its funny how this "old game" holds its own next to the newer games and still continues to put smiles on people's faces when they play it.
Quoted from Damien:
When leveling the machine, is it fine to use a leveling app? I'm using one on Android.
Also, where should I measure? I put the phone horizontally between the flippers and I get 8.2° (x) or if I turn it vertically, which puts the phone a lower lower, I get 9.2° (y).
Then if I move up on the playfield, for instance, above trolls, those numbers change to 7° (x) and 7.8° (y).
Does this seem right?
I have read the sweet spot is 6.5°, but where is that measured from seeing that different parts of the pf will give you varying measuments.
I prefer a dedicated digital leveler. I measure mid sling area while keeping it perfectly horizontal and adjust front levelers until its zero. Then place it verical midfield and adjust the rears with equal turns on each leveler until I get 6.5. Re-check the mid sling area for zero again and that's it.
Quoted from KozMckPinball:
60ish plays on MMR Standard and no BFTK yet, top score only 48-49 million so far.
Boy do you have a long way to go. I think you need a minimum of at least 150 mil to BFTK. I've had mine for almost 2 years with well over 1000 plays and did it only once on standard settings.
Quoted from Okarcades:
$399 for a chip is ridiculous. I understand the cost is in the labor but color dmd sells the hardware and software for the same price.
Not to mention I already spent $8,000 with your company........
Everything was redrawn into higher resolution, couple that with a relatively low run compared to almost all of the original Bally/Williams and the cost per unit is up there. If there were 21000 MMr's sold, than the cost would be probably 20 dollars/game.
Not to take anything away from the great work that ColorDMD does but what they do is colorize the same low resolution images that the game comes in.
Keep in mind that you need to occasionally recheck the level of the playfield every so often especially when you notice these behavioral differences.
Quoted from Damien:
Question about the game settings. Is there any way to change the way the ball ejects from the left side of the castle? Seems that this is what is causing my ball to not fall down directly to the flipper, hitting the slingshot occasionally.
I manually rolled the ball from both sides, and the ball goes directly to flipper. But once in the game, the ball ejects, and it's not always a drop straight to the flipper.
One thing I change on all my games is to set awards to extra ball instead of free game. So if I get special or replay because of reaching a certain score, I get an extra ball. My games are all free play, why reward myself with a free game?
Quoted from dzoomer:
Is the LE still available NIB in the US? I thought LE's were gone a while back overall. (My purchase is in Canada)
MMR was lovely for what it offered. #1 game, classic title, and available NIB. To get near its newness MM prices were and remain well more. Unlike newer titles, clean versions of mm, let alone huo, are hard to come by. It's a great choice imo.
Welcome to the club. NIB LE's were sold out long ago and the standards are on last call.
Quoted from dzoomer:
Yes, but didn't some distributors even in the US consistently have LE stock for a while, with the amount ordered and some people backing out over time? Similar to recent JJP pins sales.
Starburst (my purchase in Canada) had a bulk order early on, may have added more stock later (I have no idea), but ended up with some LEs left over for a while, to the point that I just got the last one they had.
Or were the vast majority of orders direct with PP?
Yes starburst ordered quite a few, then by the time they arrived the Canadian dollar collapsed.A few backed out but eventually they all sold and two of my friends bought the last two late last year. They were officially sold out as of then.
Quoted from dzoomer:
Do you know the range of their LE #'s? Once I know mine I can likely infer the shipment history. How were their machines for insert black (using diffusers?) and slingshots?
On a separate note, it seems Pinside did decide to make separate entries for MM, MMR LE and MMR std and that was news to me.
And MMR LE is one review away from appearing on the top 100 list. Likely near/at the top. One can already anticipate the drama.
I need to ask them but i think the numbers were all over the place.
Oh man next week the MMRLE ratings go on. You are right, break out the popcorn cuz the drama is coming. Of course I gave it a 10.
I was one of the first to get my MMr and back then it was ground zero for all the hostilities regarding MMr. Many had originals that dropped dramatically due to the release of MMr and the only thing they could do was incessantly slam MMr in the hopes that it would lose credibility. They would pick the most minuscule of things which can typically be found on any NIB. Then there were the barrage of names like "refake" and "feels like a toy" and "doesn't play like the original" etc. I have never seen any other new release receive so much hostility. I used to defend MMr but found that it's best to simply ignore.
At the time, it seemed that every thread that had MMr in the title was a hotbed of controversy.The same group of people seemed to gravitate to them and repeat the same garbage over and over. I created this thread as a safe haven to really discuss all things MMr from an owners perspective and share some great ideas in its modification.
Quoted from Bronty:
Hopefully the doorman to this club won't bounce my ass out, as I don't have an actual machine yet, but I did purchase the original painting used to create the backglass, so hopefully you guys will let me use that as a ticket and stick around. Would have been cheaper to just buy a machine! Gotta get it framed, but here it is for now.
Love all the great machines on this thread, and bucketlisting it to get one
Don't worry, I will speak to the doorman about making an exception in your case by allowing that really cool artwork as admission.
Quoted from nosro:
That's a strange and difficult question to answer and might be better served in a separate thread where you can get Fish Tale owners to chime in. The games are very different.
No need, I'm both an MMr and a FT owner.
FT has a very shallow ruleset. Lock 3 balls in the casters club to initiate multiball. While in multiball, put one ball in casters club to light super jackpot. If successful you become the "master" of freshwater fishing. Repeat to be the master of tropical and repeat again for deep sea. Once master of all 3 you become worlds greatest angler (wizard mode). There is a super jackpot which is the ball in the center of the pf that is worth 100 million a shot. That's basically it. You can achieve the wizard in about 5 minutes. It has a cool video mode and if you shoot the ramps with lit fish six times you get a shot at the monster fish hurry up for 20 mil. Some other minor elements remain such as rock the boat and feeding frenzy but not even close to the ruleset of MMr.
I have owned FT for one year and have achieved the worlds greatest angler at least a dozen times. I owned MMr for two years and did BFTK twice only.
Hope that answers the question.
If you master the backhand shot to the casters club, getting to world's greatest angler is a much easier task. Actually if you can do everything perfectly its 3 shots to casters club then one shot to casters to light jackpot then one shot to left ramp to collect. Do one more shot to casters then left ramp to collect then one last shot to casters then left ramp to collect and bam, wizard mode in 9 shots total.The real difficulty is staying in multiball. Wizard mode is not really a mode but more like an opportunity for super jackpot simply hitting the captive ball on the center of pf. Although a relatively simple game, FT is still a very fun game overall.
I could be wrong but wouldn't swapping out a beaglebone black be cheaper than buying new Rottendog boards for the originals? I wish Rick could chime in with a price.
Quoted from bigd1979:
Its really easy to fix most original wpc95 boards cheap so no reason to replace them. Im curious about replacements of the newer mmr boards down the road also ......
My sound board is screwed on my Judge Dredd. My option in a $350 pinsound board to replace it, and that's for the sound only. Too bad it didn't have a beaglebone black like in MMr, it would have been a quick easy and cheap swap and I'm done.