(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago

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  • 8,825 posts
  • 661 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Pin-Pilot
  • Topic is favorited by 347 Pinsiders


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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (6 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (3 years ago)

Post #4945 differences on all MMR versions Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #5853 Damsel trapper ball, Right troll trapped ball - fixes Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #6402 Speaker Kit and Widescreen upgrade manual Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rrath03.
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#8501 4 months ago

Hey all, excited to share my pinball mod project with you.

I got this Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard) in March 2020 and have been working on it ever since. It had just 300 plays and plays amazingly, but I had lots of plans.

MM has always been my favorite game but having it set up in my living room meant I wanted it to be pristine.

I began by adding the RGB kit plus pinstadiums and started to really fall in love with the high contrast illustrations on the playfield, especially all the subtle and goofy nuances.

I keep making small tweaks, but things really started taking direction when I picked up brian-allen updated back glass and side art. It was a great upgrade and I quickly realized I wanted to take it that much further as I now found the cabinet graphics to feel outdated.

My first step was a few print tests, using a panoramic photo of the back glass with my iPhone 12. I did the left side only and through the process of the vinyl sticker and applying it as a test run, I learned a lot. I also learned that that new cabinet art comes off very easily so the machine can be converted back to its original state with no problems.

The entire cabinet art project took about 15 hours to design in illustrator, test, and apply. I had a bit of experience with vinyl so was able to get it on without any bubbles.

Some of the other major upgrades I’ve made include adding the, color display mod, shaker motor, and the XL display + premium sound (which was a tough $$ pill to swallow but a no brainer in the end).

I hope you enjoy my “Ye New Medieval Madness” and I would love to field any questions about this one-of-a-kind machine.

A big thanks to Brian Allen on the backglass art that inspired this, who to be clear, is not involved in this project in anyway.

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Added 38 days ago:

NOTE: I thought that I had permission to scan and print Brian’s artwork, but I misunderstood him, and I do not.
Brian created the artwork for the backglass and the side blades, but not the cabinet and backbox artwork. I created this by scanning Brian’s work and photoshopping it together.

#8505 4 months ago

I talked to Brian a bit about it. He was aware I was working on it but it's in no way an official collab. Brian if you want Illustrator files though let me know! I was never able to confirm that the original MM was the same size, but happy to work with anyone here to confirm if you want to explore making these for others.

1 month later
#8629 3 months ago

I just moved my machine and now for some reason when I turn it on the white led under the dragon is on prior to full boot up, while all the other lights are off like normal until after boot up. Has anyone seen this before?

I also now all of a sudden am having problems with my castle gate not opening on that final hit. Unsure if it’s related but seems to fix itself when I let it do a full ball search (which I read about in other posts) although was never an issue before and now I’ve had to do it a few times in the last week.

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#8631 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn it off. Lift playfield. Anything loose, out of place, shorting to metal ?
Something happened in the move.
LTG : )

Yeah. I’ve been looking it over closely but didn’t realize a short could cause this. Thx for the tip I’ll have to look even closer.

2 weeks later
#8676 72 days ago

My MMR castle gate has been slowly degrading in performance. Meaning the gate open hit wont work, and the only way to fix it is to let the ball search cycle. It’s happened more and more frequently and now the ball search cycle will not reset it. I suspect I need to replace the whole actuator but I’m not sure. I am also finding this part a bit hard to find. Any thoughts? Maybe I don’t need the whole assembly and just the actuator part? Thx for any advice!


#8679 72 days ago
Quoted from mrcosmo:

I just noticed on my MMR standard that the castle wall door hinge (for the ball lock) is staying open. I removed the glass and it swings back and forth, it just dies not swing easily. Any advice on how to get it to swing shut. Thanks.
[quoted image]

I had this issue and just gave it a bit of wd40 and it works fine now.

#8685 70 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I would go into test and see/verify the switches for the gate. Open, close, being hit by a ball. I would first suspect it just isn’t adjusted right, first. Then move on to part replacement.

Looks like switch 44 is not working.

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1 week later
#8687 63 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball through the swinging castle door - does the switch on the moat under the playfield register ? If not check the switch. It is on the green moat under the playfield. See if it's loose, not plugged in, need adjusting.
LTG : )

Thx for the advice. I’ve narrowed it down a bit. The castle gate power test works consistently when the board is at 45 degrees (middle upright position) but much less than that and it won’t work at all. I’ve confirmed the gate slides smoothly. It’s as if even the smallest amount of gravitational resistance at less than 45 degrees and it stops functioning completely. Does this mean the solenoid is bad?

#8689 63 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

No. A solenoid doesn't know what 45 degrees is.
Have you tried this ?
Easy to do. Remove balls. Turn game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. Find the driver board. No need to unhook the connectors. Remove the screws holding the driver board to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board. It has a row of ten pins along one edge. Then plug the driver board back in. Press the tops of those ten pins to get a good seat.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )

That seems to have done it. LTG FTW

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