I'm posting in this thread cause I have a deposit on a gold and I want to be able to more easily keep track of this thread.

I haven't been in the holding pattern for quite as long as some others but I'm no less excited. It will get here when it gets here. It sounds like they are addressing the issues that have been reported, and if they aren't paying lip service and down playing it, it doesn't sound like it is as prolific as the forums would make it out to be.

Anyway, for those who have theirs already, have fun storming the castle!

Good on them for releasing that teaser vid. I think that should put to bed any doubts as to the quality and value of the color dmd in the mmr.

Of course there are those who will continue to speculate and gripe on whether or not they will charge for the update. My opinion is if they do make it free then great, but I wasn't completely expecting it. If not, I just hope they don't charge an arm and a leg for it.

Just ordered PDI glass for my MMR. Already have it on my ST Pro and couldn't imagine playing without it anymore. It's not cheap but neither are pinballs themselves and the playfield is the one thing you spend the majority of your time looking at.

So I just had to try out my ST PDI glass on my MMR just to make sure of the fit and verify the difference and I immediately went to the computer to place the order.

Fit just fine. A little on the snug side, especially the last few inches. It takes a little coaxing to get going when removing, but I just applied gentle downward pressure with both palms over the apron area while pulling outward and it begins to slide out just fine. I think if you do that a few times it will loosen it up a bit too and make it even easier, but I didn't get any sense that it was scraping, warping, or otherwise damaging/harming the rails, cabinet, or glass itself.

It's hard to say how much longer it takes to put in. I'm pretty careful when I put in glass anyway and I only have one other machine and that has PDI so that's what I'm used to. What amount of time begins to become too much? 5 seconds? 10? 20? I don't think it's taken me more than 10.

Without the PDI glass, I was getting a lot of reflection and glare, especially over the castle area. Made it kind of hard to see clearly. After putting on the PDI, it is crystal clear to look at and enjoy in all its glory. It's so easy to forget sometimes that there is even glass there at all.

Oops, my bad. I'll let you know when mine arrives to try and give you an idea.

When is Pinside going to add the MMR to the list of pins to add to your collection?

Just got it in today so it took about 8-9 days order to delivery from GA to CA.

As I have only ever played a few different OG MMs a few times before, I'm curious if a few of the quirks that are sometimes happening with my MMR happened with the original as well.

Things like:

- Balls getting knocked around the playfield, often hitting the glass, during Troll Multi-ball.
- Multiple balls getting stuck in catapult with difficulty getting launched out.
- Multiple balls(usually 2+) getting stuck/hung up at pops exit area causing a "traffic jam".

Obviously multi-ball is a very chaotic event and things go crazy. The most annoying one of the above is the catapult. The traffic jam in the pops only happens once in a rare while. The balls getting launched around, especially into the glass by popping trolls is disconcerting to say the least, but that's pinball.

If there's some kind of fix for the catapult that would be nice. Not sure if upping the coil strength is the answer as on single ball it seems a bit too strong if I go much higher from default.

But mostly I was just wondering if the original exhibited the same sort of things.

Having an issue with my left flipper assembly. The pin that secures the rod(indicated in the picture below as an example) has come loose twice now in so many days, causing it to completely detach from the rest of the assembly. I was able to find the pin in the bottom of the cabinet and reinsert it and thought I had clamped it down hard enough, but apparently not enough for it to happen a second time now.

How can I secure this pin better? I had a heck of a time working on this part without removing the whole thing, so not sure if there's an easier way.

flipper_(resized).jpg

OK thanks for the advice. Will do.

What new firmware revision? Has an update been released?

Link?

Thanks! Saved me having to search

Happens on mine too. Not 60-70% but maybe more like 20-30% though.

Well crap. Hopefully my ticket for replacement plunger assembly gets answered soon as it failed again today. Looks like my MMr is out of commission until I get a new assembly.

According to the manual, the tip of the bubble should be between the first and second lines(if counting from the front of the machine). The first line represents 6deg of pitch and every line after another 1/2 degree, so if the bubble is touching the second line, it should be at 6.5deg.

It's not like other levels I've seen like in my Stern ST where there are just two lines where the bubble should be centered in between.

Think I might look into some fancy leveling apps on my phone though and see what it might indicate the pitch to be if possible.

Well holy carp! I installed that PinGuy app, made sure it was calibrated on as level a surface as possible, made sure it was set to playfield and placed it according to the instructions. Even though I had the game bubble set according to the manual, it was off by almost a full degree according to the app(7.5 instead of 6.5). I raised the front legs and the game bubble was then pegged off the scale. Useless? Not sure how much I should trust this app or maybe invest in a real digital level. When I have more time, I may have to try and cross reference it with some other apps.

I also to my surprise discovered that I actually had a spare plunger assembly sitting in my parts drawer from a replacement coil I bought for my ST Pro last year. I only needed the coil and totally forgot about the plunger left over that was just sitting there. Was able to swap that in so I could play a couple of games and test out the new angle. Seemed okay so far. I may need to tweak the plunger assembly as it may not be tight enough. Some noticeable recoil at the end of the swing. Not a lot, but it should come to a dead stop.

Ah, the neverending fun of pinball maintenance!

Need some more alignment advice. Since using that PinGuy app to set the pitch angle of my MMR to 6.5, I also made sure that the side-to-side level was spot on for both front and back. It's been playing pretty well for the most part, but I've noticed a couple of things that really bug me.

1. When the ball is returning from the right orbit at either from the stop or at a medium/moderately fast speed, it has a real tendency to hit or graze the top of the right slingshot and ricochet towards the center drain. It never used to do this before and was usually a clean drop down to the right flipper. I find myself having to give the pin a good nudge every time the ball comes down the orbit to make sure it clears the top of the sling. How does this compare to the original?

I'm guessing that adjusting the level from one side to the other would help this. Should I make the right side higher, or is that counterintuitive? I wonder why it should be behaving like this when my bubble level is so spot on.

2. This may also be related to the previous problem due to the possible level issue, but it seems that there is a high propensity for the ball to center drain after a castle gate shot. Either I'm incredibly unlucky, but most of the time the hit will deaden the ball enough that it will drop straight down the middle and nothing I can do. Maybe by fixing problem #1, that might help this by edging the ball to one side or the other?

3. Catapult still plagues me when more than one ball is caught in there. I thought when I fixed the pitch that it would have helped this, giving it more leverage to eject both balls, but it didn't. If anything it seems to have gotten worse. Now, it fails to even randomly knock one of the balls out to the side and eventually the catapult just stops kicking and I have to pull the glass off. I've done just about all the tweaking to the wireform I feel comfortable doing. It doesn't appear like the balls are catching on it in any way. It's just like it doesn't have enough power to launch two hard enough to clear at least one of them. Coil is at max strength, and that seems just good enough to get one ball around the loop smoothly. That just seems really odd to me. Thinking about opening a ticket on this one.

I've had this ongoing issue and sometimes I get lucky and a ball will get kicked out eventually, and other times not so lucky. Messing with the coil strength was not a fix-all as the power seemed to fluctuate, as well as be a bit too overpowered for just one ball, and I would have to adjust the wireform too. It got to be a bit of a headache in its own right. I had even tried slightly bending the wireform where the balls eject into as suggested by Lloyd, but that didn't seem to help either. Removing the ball trap was not an option as it made a successful catapult shot almost impossible. I've since returned the coil setting back to default and made sure the playfield pitch setting is at true 6.5 degrees(ignore the bubble) and living with it.

I have noticed that the coil will stop trying to eject the balls after about 6-8 attempts. If they are the only two balls left the game will then go into ball search mode and it may attempt to eject them again at that point.

The power settings on the coils have me a bit vexed though. Overall, the power level seems to be inconsistent, sometimes falling off over time at the higher settings. Like I said, I have it at default right now and it works pretty well. But if I set it to +1, it will not have enough power to send the ball around and it will drop down the left ramp. It takes a max setting to get it going around again reliably but will often be overpowered and bind at the top of the ramp. So that's why I have it at default.

Try bending the metal leaf a bit so the ball is sure to make solid contact and depress the switch as it passes every time. I had a similar issue with the exit switch on my damsel ramp.

Any more info on troll/dragon mods/install plus links appreciated.

As I said in another thread, I wouldn't worry. I'm sure it will be here in time for Christmas.

Got my color shipping email with tracking number as well. Forget which carrier their using so can't tell when it's supposed to arrive.

Received and installed my color today. Nice little package. Easy to install with included chip removal tool. Really looks fantastic. Now my Star Trek Pro is jealous.

Same issue with catapult here to(#355). Posted attempts to fix it long ago. Tried bending wireform, shifting side to side. Game is set to 6.5deg. Like yours, mech seems in order on inspection. No protector. I can't tell if it is just a faulty coil that's just not operating properly at lower power settings, or if the game itself is not sending enough power at the individual settings. At each setting, the results are anything but consistent. At max, most of the time it will make it around pretty smoothly. Sometimes it will catch on the top switch a bit. Sometimes it will be a very underpowered shot and roll back down the left ramp. Getting two balls stuck in the catapult usually means having to stop the game and pulling the glass off, but sometimes I get lucky and one will pop out.

I don't really know what else to try and have kinda just given up on it and been living with it as about 85% effective as I'd like it to be.

Has anyone here installed the LED Troll heads mod from Pinwize? I'm having some issues.

First, if there is an easy, straightforward way of replacing the old head, I'm all ears. I decided to remove the entire assembly(which is a pain), but still had trouble getting to the screws on the back of the head.

Anyway, that aside, I replaced one head and put the assembly back. I wasn't sure about the wire hookups though. The website directions seem to only be from the original and the coil wire colors are not what are used on the MMR. I tried going from the positioning indicated in the picture, instead of color. I noticed a Test report indicating that the L/R (U) Troll switches were bad. Testing them, they seemed to indicate open/closed just fine. I can start a game, activate trolls and everything seems to work fine. They pop up. They register hits, and pop back down. No LEDs though. I've rebooted the machine several times but still get the Test report of bad switches upon entering the menu. I've checked and re-checked that all three of the connectors are correct and seated well. They are all color coded too, and I took pictures to verify before removing in the first place.

I'd be more worried if they didn't seem to be working during gameplay, but not sure why it is reporting bad switches. And after all this, I still don't have the LED working yet.

Could use some help/advice here.

Follow up. After some more fiddling, it seems the error has gone away now(hope for good), but still no lights. You can see the difference in coil wire colors in the pics below. First is original, second is MMR. The coloring on MMR is (from L to R) Blue, Brown(ish), Orange. I've tried every combo I can think of too. Glad I decided to go with alligator clips at first instead of soldering.
troll_head_install_3 (resized).jpgIMG_0609 (resized).JPG

Think I've pretty much confirmed that it is a dead troll. Tested with just a battery power source and no light. Tested the other troll that I hadn't installed yet with same power source and it lights up. I've contacted Pinwize and hopefully I can get it replaced.

Hi folks! Been some time since I've posted in here. MMrLE #355 original owner here. Just wanted to show off my pride and joy. MM is still my favorite pin, next to my ST "Promium". I've modded both extensively. Here's a video and list of all my mods.

Lenticular 3D trans
Color DMD chip upgrade
Speaker LED kit
Pin Stadium Fusion kit
Backboard LED strip (purple)
Moat LED strip (green)
Trough LED strip (red)
Flipper button LEDs (red)
Troll LED eyes (red) - ended up doing it myself
Blue Dragon w/LEDs (blue wings, red fire breath)
Stock Red Dragon w/LED mod (red, another DIY addition)
Merlin figure w/LED crystal ball (blue)
Catapult model w/LED mod (red)
Oak Barrel spot lamp mod w/flickering torch LED mod(under slingshots)
Dress up kit (Chrome start button emblem, sword flipper bats, metal castle emblem)
Decal set (Troll targets, Merlin's Magic targets, plastic decal for bare metal divider between castle gate and wall shot)

I have to say, adding the Pin Stadium Fusions to my MMR(have them on ST too) was the best thing I ever did. All other modding aside, I highly recommend them for any pin, but MM benefits from them greatly.

OMG that's amazing! Nice job! If it was for sale, I'd almost be too afraid to ask for how much.

With all the modding I've done on my MMr and ST:Pro, I've kind of shied away from toppers. Even though there are a couple OK ones for MM, I really haven't seen anything that has jumped out at me for ST, which is a shame. If I were going to do toppers, it would have to be for both.

Cool stuff, but aside from the topper, I'm very happy with my LE. I have a ton of mods in mine, including the color DMD upgrade and speaker light kit. Also Pin Stadium Fusions, so RGB GI doesn't seem like a big deal. My only other pin is a ST:Pro. I have a ColorDMD and Fusions in that is well. No topper, as I've never seen a really decent one tbh. The DMDs on both my machines match pretty well side-by-side, and I think it might look weird to put that XL on my MMr. I guess I like symmetry.

I'm glad to see they're upping their game. Nothing in pinball is cheap, so whatever they charge, it is what it is. I'm not feeling left out though. LOVE my MMr as it is now.

That's way cool.

I'm pretty happy with the effect I was able to achieve with a couple of LED strips. I've almost forgotten how bland and drab the stock castle can look. Not knocking it, but part of the reason I love owning pinball is being able to mod and personalize my machines.

9IT5Urg (resized).jpg

Maybe they'll make a Troll Edition...just to mess with people.

That was fun to watch. SO CLOSE! I wasn't even playing and almost worked up a sweat. Been there many times and the feeling of actually completing it is so incredibly satisfying. Some great playing and excellent ball control skillz there!

I ended up doing the troll mod myself. You can buy a set from Pinwize like I did, but they ended up not working, even though I was told they are MMr compatible. When I connected them to the troll coil, it blew out the LEDs. It could have been a fluke, but I chalked it up to the coils in the MMr may be a slightly higher voltage than the originals. I bought my own parts to make the mod, which included 3.6K/2W resistors. Took a little doing, but extremely happy with how they turned out. I got a lot of mods, but these are one of my favorites.

zXK4S9E (resized).jpg

Honestly, I was just going by his install instructions and didn't think of that. I don't mind them being on the coils now, and I see no reason to change it. They've been rock solid. No need for them to be always on. It's certainly something to consider for anyone else attempting the mod though.

That does look kind of cool. I ordered some LEDs off of amazon and they ended up being a bit larger than the ones that came with my kit. I had to drill out the eye holes a bit more to get them to fit, so if the ones in my photo look a lot bigger, that's why. I kind of like it better though. Stands out. I think I also prefer that they are on the whole time. It's a cool effect when they first pop up, especially with the PinStadiums. But that's the beauty of modding yourself. Do what suits your own preference.

Also, love the effect when trolls are up and you get the EB flash after second castle.

You shouldn't really have to adjust the rollover switch itself. Both return wireforms alignment can be slightly adjusted from side-to-side by loosening the screw that secures them to the slingshot area. You can loosen it just enough that you can make very slight adjustments and keep running the ball through until you're getting consistent rollovers. Also, the power of the catapult coil can be lowered in the main settings(not original game settings) if it's too fast.

I had this issue on my left in-lane or "I" and just needed to adjust the wireform slightly. Alignment is everything.

To each his own. I absolutely love my gold #355(original owner so I picked it). I know some people have described it as an ugly mustard, and I'd kind of agree with it being more mustard than gold, but honestly I'm also glad it is not some kind of glossy shiny gold either. It really works for me and beyond happy with it!

I have pinstadium fusion on mine and it has transformed the game. I thought about the GI and/or speaker panel upgrade, but decided against it early on. After seeing the GIs of a royal in person, I'm just not really a fan of the overall look. It's kind of a bit too JJP for me. The pinstadium light show is highly customizable and I really like what it does for my game. As for the speaker panel, I have the color upgrade and my only other pin is a Star Trek Pro with colordmd, so I like the matching look.

Yes, you have a whole lot of customization options within the app. You can set the color and brightness levels on the regular GI/UV flashers of the regular pinstadium, and each of the 4 extra flashers on the fusions(if you get those). You also have a choice on where to connect the GI/UV flashers too, so if you want the GI to sync with what all the other GIs are doing, you connect to one of those, or you can connect to a static GI like the coin insert on the coin door, if you want to have more static general illumination. Lots of options, even if you just want to add a little bit more light to a very dark playfield. Doesn't have to be a blinding vegas strip all the time.

On my MMr, I have the GI illumination on a three color fade rotation(red, gold, purple) and UV triggered off center castle. Then extra fusion flashers are right ramp red(for red dragon), left ramp blue(I have the blue dragon mod), lower left flasher is a gold/red color for catapult, and one of the other flashers(forget which) is green that works well for the moat. I'll admit, mine is quite the light show and really intense the way I have it set, because that's what I like. Might be almost seizure inducing for some lol. You can see what mine looks like along with all the other lighting stuff I've done to make it a really dynamic feeling game.

Thanks! I've had a lot of fun with mods as you can tell. I especially like how using a purple led strip above the castle and a green strip under the moat, gives the castle a two-toned 3D effect. But the light show from the pinstadiums just make the game come alive.

As for the pinstadium app, I don't think there's any way to save or share settings. That's actually a feature I wouldn't mind. At least the ability to save a setup, or multiple overall setups/profiles you could swap between. I think it doesn't exist(for now) because the settings are most likely stored on the boards that drive the light bars themselves. You use the app to dial in the what you want and it just remembers it. But you could manually share things like RGB values and brightness/white level settings to recreate it. Part of the fun though is playing around with where to connect/trigger stuff to and the color/brightness settings you want. The official pinstadium thread(https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement) is always a good place to share info.

Can I get a new custom, "THIS IS MY BOOMSTICK!" callout?

OK, so imagine a They Live! pin that comes with a set of some kind of polarized glasses that reveal alternate artwork, kind of like Stranger Things' Upside Down. Or just go the regular UV route, but still comes with a set of nifty shades. I'm absolutely sure that Keith David would be onboard for some VO work.

I think this forum thread just got seriously derailed.

I have regular mirror blades in mine, not gold, and I love them. I originally had the gameblades artwork, which were nice, but then I got Pinstadium Fusions(the original, not the new atoms that are 1/3rd of the width) and they ended up hiding a lot of the artwork. I have mirrors on my Star Trek, so figured it would be really nice to match and enhance the extra light. I was right.

I went for regular mirrors simply because of how much more expensive the golds were and I didn't think I'd notice all that much of a difference to justify the more than double the cost.

I have the Hooked flipper swords on mine as well and never had an issue with them(using as is). But I also don't put a ton of plays on it either.

Not sure if it was key, but yeah making sure to clean the flipper well with alcohol, letting it dry completely, then(and this may be the most important) when applying use a lot of consistent pressure. Really hold it on there for at least a minute or two. The more and longer pressure you apply really helps the adhesive to bond. Then finally, don't play for awhile. Like a day. It may not seem that apparent, but the force applied to the flipper when it activates is quite severe. If the adhesive is still bonding, then that force can easily weaken it. Not saying everyone who's had issue is doing this, but maybe some think they just need to stick it on like a sticker and then ready to play. Maybe I'm being a lot too careful, but then again, I haven't had any issues.

Have to admit, I needed to lookup what a flipper fan mod was. Never heard of that before. Question is, is that really necessary? Is coil overheating a real issue? I've never noticed anything weird with my MMR or other machine like loss of power or inconsistency, even after long play sessions. What am I missing?

I've never seen one that's not a two-headed one and/or either in stock or compatible with the remake.

After I bought and installed that illuminated blue dragon mod, I wanted to make the stock red dragon look similar. I ended up modding it myself with a couple of red led lights, some wire, alligator clips, and some hot glue. It ended up okay, but not really that impressive. Not like the troll led eyes mod I ended up doing myself as well. That turned out great and is my favorite mod on my machine.

Here's a video I made where you can kind of see the two red leds under the red dragon wings.

I did the troll eyes on mine. While I ended up doing them myself, I sort of cheated because I actually bought the ones from Pinwize.com first. They were originally meant for the OG MMR, but I was somewhat assured that it should work with the MMR. I did install them and then almost immediately the leds blew out. It was advised to me that perhaps the voltage on the coils used in the remake may be slightly higher than the original.

I really wanted the mod in my machine and a refund/replacement wasn't an option, so I just decided to try to remake it on my own. Also, he only had the red troll heads mod in stock when I bought them, so doing itself meant I could use original green heads which is what I wanted. I picked up a bunch of troll heads so I'd have backups and some prewired red leds and all the other stuff I'd need to connect it to the machine. The biggest thing was making sure that I wasn't going to run into the same overvoltage that I had before. I think the resister on the Pinwize mod just wasn't enough so I took readings off the coils and figured out the proper resistor needed for the leds I had. The cheat came from seeing how the Pinwize mod was constructed and just followed that. I drilled the eye holes myself just starting with a small pilot bit and then slowly widening it until the leds fit nicely. The ones I bought were actually slightly larger than the Pinwize ones, which I thought might be a problem, but at the end of the day I really like them and they really pop!

Overall, yes it was a pita to do, but SO worth it. Every time they pop up I get a bit giddy. You can kind of see what mine look like a few posts up at #9654 at the 2:05 mark in the video.

Well damn you sir! I'm such a sucker for mods so I just HAD to buy this!

This looks really well done and can't wait to see it installed on my machine. I already have the metallic raised emblem that gives the sword & shield a 3D look, so this is gonna be great.

Every time I think I'm done adding mods to my machines...

Got my start button installed today and it looks absolutely amazing! Especially with this shield mod: https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p79/Medieval-Madness-Start-Button-Shield-Pinball-Mod.html#/

Well done!

eALERoj (resized).jpg

I prefer the standard GI lighting of my LE BUT, I also have the barrel spots and pinstadium fusion(original, although I am really itching to upgrade them to the neo atoms), plus a bunch of other led accent strips(castle/backboard/moat/trough). Pinstadiums GI are not set to 100% brightness and does a 3-color fade(gold/red/purple) during normal play. Fusion flashers are color defined for specific shots. For example, I have the blue dragon mod for left ramp, so that shot flashes blue. Right ramp flashes red, etc. I much prefer this light show vs. the RGB lighting. I've played the Royal Edition a bunch too.

The nice thing is that the pinstadiums are highly configurable and I can simple just turn all or parts off via the app if I want that truly classic look.

Sorry, didn't mean to mislead you on this. I was more referring to one of the led strips I installed that provide accent lighting to both the castle and the backboard. Another strip lights from beneath the moat. The overall effect is a nice two-tone lighting scheme on the overall castle.

The barrel lights are subtle with everything else going on with the pinstadiums, but I notice them. I put in purple leds and they do enhance some of the colors on the playfield and fill it out a bit. Honestly though, I bought them more for the barrels themselves as they just look so good. Really well made and enhance the playfield. They also come with the flickering torch leds for under the slings. Again, subtle, but I notice them and just really cool effect.

I've posted before but here again is some video of my machine in action. Look out for the troll led eyes mod I did myself at the 2min mark.

I've been procrastinating cleaning my LE for years now, but it looks brand new compared to that, lol! Granted, I'm not even in the same realm as that many plays on mine.

Also, I don't know why, but it always bugs me to see that stock bare metal center divider as seen in the last photo. My mild OCD forced me to buy the little plastic piece that covers it.

The only issue I've had with my LE(#355) since I got it at launch, is a bit of inconsistency with the catapult launch coil. Sometimes it will launch and the ball makes it around smooth as butter. Sometimes it launches and it hits the top of the curve in the ramp and hitches a bit, but still makes it around. And then sometimes it doesn't get quite enough oomph and doesn't make it all the way around and drops back down the peasant ramp.

I messed around with it for awhile, but it's been a long time now since I've bothered. If I tried adjusting the coil strength, it didn't help the consistency. If I upped it, it would either be way to strong and always bind up at the top, or even hop off the metal track. Or if I lowered the coil, it would really struggle to make it around. I also tried adjusting the ramp and return track in conjunction.

I've just sort of live with it because it's more of a minor annoyance than anything that affects gameplay and I've gotten a bit lazy about it. It's not coil fade or whatever either as that's something that you'd expect to get gradually worse the more you play, but the inconsistency of what's happening means that some catapults will be too weak and then too strong and vice versa all throughout gameplay.

I'm open to entertain any ideas of what I might try that I haven't already though.

I know you can get your castle painted, but not something I really have any desire to do. But one thing that I've always had an eye out for and surprised that nothing exists that I can find, is some kind of decal for the tops of the two towers. Not only would it hide the screws, but prime opportunity to add a little extra detail to the castle.

I've toyed with the idea of taking some measurements and in photoshop come up with some different textures to see what might work. Maybe some wooden planking, rough stone, and/or some strewn hay, plus a trap door. Nothing too poppy, just enough for a finished look and not bare plastic and a screw. The top of the main castle gate at least has some faint detail, but that could use a decal too IMO.

Lit up? Yes. Better? Maybe not.

After I got that blue dragon mod for the left ramp that's out there, that has leds under it's wings, I decided to put some leds I had left over from doing my own troll eyes mod, under the wings of the red dragon. It's not great but kind of matches the blue dragon. I think I just alligator clipped it to a GI.

You can kind of see it in this gameplay video of my MMRLE:

Overall I like it. It's a beast and dominates that area of the playfield. When I was installing it I was like there's no way the glass is going to fit over this, but sure enough it does(just barely). The only real downside is it kind of obscures some of the castle ball lock inserts from view(at least from my viewing angle). Not a big deal though and I think it adds a lot to the playfield. But, as you can tell, I'm mod happy.

Side note, I don't know if you noticed or caught in the video, but because I'm using pinstadium fusions, I have individual flasher colors set to go off for left and right ramps. Blue for left, red for right, so they match the dragons. Kind of a cool added effect.

Oh man that is exactly the type of thing that I've been wanting and posted about awhile back. Too bad it sounds like a huge pita or I'd BEG you to sell it as a mod. It's times like these I wish I had a 3D printer to make something like this, but I don't think I could justify owning one for how little I'd actually end up using it. Also, I'm not savvy at all with working with 3D models. I was having a hard enough time just trying to come up with something in photoshop that I could just print out on paper and affix to the castle, but got sidetracked and put on the backburner for now. Maybe somebody with time and talent will wise up and realize they could probably sell a ton of those.