(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

4 years ago

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  • 4,869 posts
  • 457 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by PtownPin
  • Topic is favorited by 266 Pinsiders


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#273 4 years ago
Quoted from Lowrent:

Just unpacked mine. Moat doesn't recognize the ball (switch 36). The switch triggers if I break the opto signal with a pencil though.
Do you have any idea what I could do to adjust the opto switch ?

Check and see if it's aligned with the height of the ball as it passes through it. Pencil test means the circuit is working which is good. Maybe just need to get the height/angle correct

#277 4 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Just fired up my MMr to play...
All coils started firing, as if doing a ball search. A ball was launched into the shooter lane...launched onto the PF...drained.
ALL of the PF inserts were flickering bad...not behaving like they ought to be in attract mode.
Re-booted, everything is OK.
Has anyone had that happen yet?

No. Never seen that. Keep an eye out?

1 week later
#351 4 years ago
Quoted from PWhiz:

Having an issue with my left flipper assembly. The pin that secures the rod(indicated in the picture below as an example) has come loose twice now in so many days, causing it to completely detach from the rest of the assembly. I was able to find the pin in the bottom of the cabinet and reinsert it and thought I had clamped it down hard enough, but apparently not enough for it to happen a second time now.
How can I secure this pin better? I had a heck of a time working on this part without removing the whole thing, so not sure if there's an easier way.

I would contact CGC and get a replacement plunger/linkage. It's a roll pin and it's not supposed to have failed like that.

#378 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

you CANNOT level a pin off of the glass

Sure you can with software that is calibrated from the playfield and then the glass.

#383 4 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Point me in that direction.

The PinGuy app does this! Check it out.


1 month later
#469 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I used a jeweler's screw driver and worked up one of the tabs on the retainer. You can then use a pair of pliers to work the retainer up. It take a little time but will go quicker the more you do.

Did you finally get yours? Is it OK?

#470 3 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Hey there Pinsiders- so my start button was out - and I opened the coin door- (power on) and jiggled the wires on it the light went on - and then whole machine went off. I literally get nothing when turning the power on/off now. I can't imagine that did any damage....hmm....
I visually looked at all obvious fuses -but don't see anything out of ordinary.
Before I put in a ticket- any suggestions ? Loydd any ideas here ? Literally dead.
It worked perfectly up until just now. It's MMR 157. Thanks in advance!

Test fuses out of circuit with a meter. I would look at the power supply fuses first.


#473 3 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

So under the "make this more complicated than necessary dept"- I checked the fuses and they are all fine. I thought I'll check the electrical cord connection in the back- and DOH- it was loose. I plugged it back in - and it popped on.
Loose cord. All is fine- phew!"

Always start simple. Glad you have your game again!

#475 3 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

lol- I'm guessing most of us start complicated- Thanks again...

I do it all the time. Every once and a while I surprise myself and check the fuses first before taking everything apart

1 month later
#607 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

WTF is up with PPS? First they have CGC making games for them and now they claim to just be a reseller of MMR. This is just BS. Standards shipping before all paid for LEs is also BS. Communication from CGC is shit. Just stupid at this point for those still waiting.
These screen grabs are from their blog. How can anyone look at this and not feel that PPS is a partner in the making of the games? I may just be irritated to the point of finding shit that isn't there but the brush off by PPS at this point is just boiling my blood.

It's just a pinball machine. Try to chill if you can. Its going to be ok.


#610 3 years ago
Quoted from twenty84:

For those of us that paid $8000+ a year or more ago and have been repeatedly lied to about shipping estimates, code updates, inserts, etc. it isn't just a pinball machine. If we had a pinball machine to show for our money, multiple emails, phone calls, etc. it would be a lot easier to chill and play pinball.

I completely understand the frustration. I wish y'all had your games.


#639 3 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Spent a couple of hours today changing the rubbers on mine for purple Titan silicons, took much longer than expected some are difficult to get to and it takes some disassembly. Still sort of unconvinced, I do like the purple, but I liked the original black also. Anyway I wanted to change them so I could keep the game cleaner and not have black rubber tracks appearing every week.
I ordered all the correct sizes EXCEPT for the outlane posts which have the rubber with the tiny hole.
For those should I order the 7/16 O.D. rubbers on the Titan website? they seem to be the closest has anyone used them? I would hate to make the outlanes more difficult than they are

I think the part that's the most convincing to me about Titan is that they last a very long time and do not shed rubber dust on the play field.

I'll take a look at my MMR later and tell you what I used on the outlanes.


1 month later
#691 3 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

The release statement says top go to planetary's website but I cant find anywhere where I can buy the upgrade. Online Store?

The early announcement was meant to help folks get their warranty cards in, etc, to make sure that when it was for sale there wouldn't be any barriers. It's not yet for sale according to the press release.


1 week later
#706 3 years ago

I highly recommend the Mantis protector set for any MM/MMR owner.


1 week later
#737 3 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Yea, WTF...my F4 fuse is open too. Why would a fuse blow when one is updating the S/W?
Thanks for the idea to check the fuse.

Stranger things have happened, but I cannot see how it's related. I'll check in on it, though.

1 week later
#765 3 years ago

It's likely related to the RTC; I don't think this is purely a software issue, but you never know.

#782 3 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Had problems with the catapult.
The mech was good and tight and not binding.
Ramp is aligned.
Default and +1 barley spill out to the playfield
+2 makes it back to the peasant ramp
Had to set to max to go around like it should.

Something is up; you shouldn't have to do that. Please check the ramp again. Maybe take a slow-motion video if you can and watch it on the default settings. Something is slowing the ball down.


#783 3 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

That fuse seems to blow during the update. Pull fuse.
Put fuse back.
Profit 1 fuse.
Edit: I wonder if leaving the coin door open would accomplish the same thing?

While you cannot hurt anything doing that, I am dubious that a software update can blow a fuse.

#787 3 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Link to video: » YouTube video
Not sure what I could move on the ramp to change things, there's not much adjustment at the lower section of the wireform.
The mech moves fine when I operate it by hand, nothing sticky or rubbing, the ramp seems to be in the right location.
Just acts like the coil doesn't have enough juice.
+2 sometimes makes it, Max works all the time.
It shouldn't hurt anything to leave at max right?

Is that a cliffy protector on there? If you remove it, does it work?

#789 3 years ago

I'm on my phone so it's a little hard to see, but it looks like them all is hitting the metal ramp early in the catapult throw. That's stopping the energy and messing it up. Did you have to take those ramps off to install the cliffy? If so, carefully inspect your work and alignment. I can take some pictures if you need later today.


#794 3 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

I'll snap that pic tomorrow morning. There are quite a few things to do to remove the cliffy, plus it has adhesive at the top of the small end.
Here's a pic I took while installing it, you can see there should be nothing touching the cliffy.
The catapult arm is centered in the playfield hole, and the cliffy is slightly outside of that.

I believe that the issue is how many things you took apart to install the cliffy. Looking at mine, the ball doesn't contact the rail until way up the ramp. The fact that yours is smacking the ball into the ramp almost right away is comcerning.

Put it back together without the cliffy and test it piece by piece. I would put just the wire form ramp back on, secure it and start testing. It didn't leave the factory like this and I am confident that you can adjust it back to proper operation.


#797 3 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

That may be true, but it works 100% fine as I have it with the cliffy installed. It doesn't hit the wireform early like at the other strength settings.
It it going to break the game to leave the catapult strength at max?
If not, why wouldn't I leave it max and not take all of that stuff apart again.

I mean, sure, of course. But it was designed to work at standard strength, so the engineer in me wants to get you back to having it work they way it was designed to

1 month later
#853 3 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I just received and installed my shaker motor for my MMR standard about a week ago. I was wondering if anyone has a list or knows all the times the shaker motor is supposed to go off? So far, it only shakes on defeating a castle and when the catapult is launched. When else does it shake or is that it?

I think it goes off when the Trolls are active as well if my memory serves.

2 weeks later
#889 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Probably "Time and date not set."
Not kidding. Still happening to my MMr on location with the new code.

Change the 2032 battery and see if it goes away. If not, file a support ticket and PM me the number.


#892 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

I can certainly do that. But if it was the battery, why is it intermittent. It will go a couple months, then the error. Then a month no problems, then the error.

I am trying to remove the last simple variable before we look at the board itself. Try the simple fix first and if you continue to have issues, I'll do whatever I can to help.


#897 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Thanks for taking time to respond to this. I'll swap the battery tomorrow.
I'll add that I'm not the only one seeing this. After the last code update others had the error show up again right around the same time. It was like clockwork.

Yup; I have been helping to triage this. There have been some folks that hit a code issue that was fixed. Some got new batteries and haven't had an issue. If you have a game that batteries or new code doesn't fix, then it's not the same issue, and CGC will want to work with you directly to resolve the issue.

Thanks for hanging with it.


#900 3 years ago
Quoted from 1967Firebird:

Mine is still doing it as well I have changed the battery. I will file another ticket

PM me the ticket number so I can assist.


#912 3 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I was told to change my battery and my ticket was closed. I changed it....and last week I got the Date/Time dot again.

Open a new ticket. Send me the number and I'll help!


#915 3 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

Replaced the battery in mine. Voltage on the old battery was 3.0v, just a little less than the battery I just put in. So I don't expect this to solve the problem.
So Marc, do you want me to wait until the next "Time and Date Not Set" incident, or open a ticket now?

Wait for the next reproduction and then we can start the process with GCG. There is an unexplained issue here that's not solved by software or a battery and they do need assistance getting extra logging to figure out why. It's not clear to me what's up here, but the software engineer in me is curious enough to help gather folks hitting the issue and shepherding this a bit.


#917 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeForNostalgia:

I am now having an an issue with the machine not recognizing when the ball is in the moat. It sits there for a while until the machine starts checking for the ball and then kicks out. Can you please point me in the right direction?
Also, thank you for the help with the mantis protector.

Sounds like a switch issue. Carefully lift the play field (remove the pinballs first) and check for a lose or disconnected wire.


1 week later
#940 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I have what might be a few noob questions. I've had my MMR (#947) for about a month now and it's gotten a fair amount of play with me and 4 kids around. I've noticed some scattered ball dimpling in the playfield (more than just a few). This is my second pin, as I've had a FT for about 12 years. I haven't noticed hardly any dimpling in the FT, in fact, I'm hard pressed to find any (but I do have some paint wear around the fish light inserts and boat ramps). In all fairness, the MMR lends itself to more launched balls so to speak with the trolls popping balls up.
So, my question... is this normal? Is this the same issue I'm seeing with Forum Posts referring to the Stern playfield issues? Or is that something else? I know it will never be glass smooth again based on my experience in the first month, but wondering if I should be worried. The dimples are quite small, maybe 1-1.5mm in diameter and the depth has to be quite small (I have no way of measuring it). And more importantly should I try to stop the progression at this point by installing a playfield protector? It's really only noticeable under very close inspection and unless you got a flashlight out with the proper angle, you most likely wouldn’t see the dimples anyway. But I'd like to prevent it getting worse if people think it will. I have no interest in clear coating because of the expertise involved and length of time. And I'm not sure it would protect from dimples anyway.
As I mentioned at the beginning of the post. I'm new to pinside, so if this is a general playfield issue with all pins I'm sorry. I tried to do some forum searches but couldn't find answers to my questions specifically with MMR, but like I said, maybe this is a more general issue.


100% normal. The more you play, the more even it will be.


#943 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Thanks. This is reassuring and I'm assuming my FT doesn't show it because the entire pf has been dimpled flat so to speak?

You're exactly right. Enjoy your game!


#954 3 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Mine touch as well, as long as yours go fully up its okay.

True to the original which also does this!


2 months later
#1020 3 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

I have this issue on mine and it's only a few weeks old. I had to move it to a dedicated outlet instead of a switched one. Used to have the pinballs on a switched outlet, so you walk in, flip the switch all the games come on.
Any idea if this is a battery issue or something else?

Hi there,

Please file a ticket with Chicago Gaming and PM me the ticket number. I will help you sort this out.


#1057 3 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Anyone getting a time/date error again? I updated months ago (when it came out) -and it stopped. But it started reasserting itself after 1/1.
I've reset it a few times now....wonder what changed?

Please file a ticket with Chicago Gaming and PM me the ticket number.


1 week later
#1104 2 years ago

We are here and happy to help you learn to maintain your MMR. All pinball need some level of maintenance and everyone here started from nowhere and learned. This is the best part of this community and hobby: the free sharing of helpful information.


1 week later
#1139 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Are there batteries to worry about leaking on the MMR somewhere? Didn't see them in my travels under the playfield.

Just a coin cell CR2032 in the backbox, same as any modern Stern, etc.

1 week later
#1156 2 years ago

If I hit 50 million on an average game I am happy.

And, yes, the center shot is dangerous. It's designed that way. High risk and high reward.


#1182 2 years ago
Quoted from busa32927:

hi all
could someone tell me how to get to the features menu. I want to adjust my flipper coil strength.

This is from memory, so forgive me if it's wrong, but I believe you hold down Escape on the back of the coin door for a few seconds to enter. It's holding down one of those buttons for a few seconds...,

#1202 2 years ago

Never gotten there. Had it since 2015! I think that means I'm not very good at pinball...

#1221 2 years ago

It doesn't look like J5 is plugged in fully in the backboard. When you re-plugged it, did the connector click into the housing?


#1231 2 years ago

bkaelin please open a support ticked at Chicago-Gaming.com if you haven't already.


#1246 2 years ago

I hit the slingshot sometimes. I should re-check the level soon.

#1271 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Question about the game settings. Is there any way to change the way the ball ejects from the left side of the castle? Seems that this is what is causing my ball to not fall down directly to the flipper, hitting the slingshot occasionally.
I manually rolled the ball from both sides, and the ball goes directly to flipper. But once in the game, the ball ejects, and it's not always a drop straight to the flipper.
Any ideas?


Can you capture some video of this? Wondering it's just the ricochet off the side rail that sometimes leads to the ball not always hugging the edge of the rail.


#1371 2 years ago
Quoted from flipnout1:

New door mod from Flip N Out.

That's really cool!

2 weeks later
#1460 2 years ago

Did you test the fuses pulled from the boards with a meter? Looking at fuses is like dancing about architecture.


#1465 2 years ago

If all of your high current solenoids are out, I would suspect a blown fuse in the power supply in the front of the cabinet. I think there are LEDs for each fuse, but I'm not in front of my MMR for a while. I would look at the 50v fuse inside the power supply under the clear acrylic case. Make sure you unplug the game from the wall before touching that area.


#1467 2 years ago

Yes. That's your issue. Replace that fuse and enjoy your game.

#1470 2 years ago
Quoted from damionrowe:

Thanks again for your help. I'll reach back out if I have any issues.

Post for success as well!

#1475 2 years ago
Quoted from damionrowe:

Did the trick. Thanks for all your help.


1 week later
#1543 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatinho:

Whatchutalkinbout Willis?
I never noticed the outlanes were adjustable! That's not in the manual anywhere!
So what, if any, is considered "normal" setting, then?

The middle.

1 week later
#1579 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hey all, I am just now realizing I may have a problem. Periodically I get a credit dot and the error is date and time not set. It's happened from the beginning (I've had mmr since about three months into production) but so infrequently that I never paid much attention. I just reset it. It's now happening maybe weekly. I am remembering others saying they had this problem and I thought there was supposed to be a software fix. Does anyone know about this? Thanks in advance.

Can you please file a repair ticket at Chicago-gaming.com? Someone from the company should be able to help you out.


#1582 2 years ago

Check the under playfield flipper mechanisms. The bolts may need a quick tighten.

2 weeks later
#1747 2 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

is there an actual fix for the date/time credit dot?

Yes. 2.0.2 firmware was released which fixes it! Is available on Chicago Gamings site.

#1753 2 years ago
Quoted from matt_assassin:

Lloyd, do you know if the 2.0.2 update correct the color bugs like when I do Ball lock, it freeze the screen with the castle on background until I do something else.
Its like the return for regular dots at the end of some animations...
Otherwise, I should probably do the update right ? I'm 2.0.1 right now.

No changes other than the date and time fix.

3 weeks later
#1907 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Could someone please tell me do all the parts of an MM flipper rebuild kit fit my MMR ?
(I'm not at home to check my manual and reading it on my phone sucks)

Do they need rebuilding already? You must play lot!


1 month later
#2133 2 years ago

Raised inserts? No. That’s not expected.

Can you please take some pictures?

#2134 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Ill take a look, My game is only 3 weeks old N.I.B.. Id say less then 100 plays, I noticed it when we first fired it up. So I'm looking for a Coil Bracket. I better hit GOOGLE.. This is my 2nd pin and havnt done too much work on them but this doesn't sound difficult.

Take the balls out and power off the game. Lift the playfield, pull it forward until it clicks and then raise it to the service position. Then look at where the flipper shaft attaches to the flipper mechanism and check for tightness.

#2137 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

You can see and feel the outline of the insert on a couple of them. Not exactly raised. But I only see it on a couple of them.

Hey Damien,

Without a picture it's hard to tell but by your description it sounds normal. Wood and plastic expand and contract at different rates.

Unless it's causing the inserts to lift, I wouldn't worry about it at all.


1 week later
#2153 2 years ago


#2157 2 years ago

Can you post a picture of the screw? The MMR manual does not show a seam/screw in the troll or carriage assemblies.


#2162 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Ok. I got a good look at the backside of the troll assemby from a Marco picture. I hope it is not copyrighted, but I marked it up with the indicated circle around the screws I think where this loose one came from on the right troll.

Looks very plausible. Can you screw it back in from under the play field?

#2167 2 years ago
Quoted from Lmjdad:

Who has Titan rubber on their game? Curious on your feedback folks?

Love them—they're on all of my games. I went traditional on MMR, so it's black with red flipper rubber.


2 weeks later
#2217 2 years ago
Quoted from Plunger069:

The ball always makes it out of the wireform but seems to hit something when it rounds the corner on the plastic ramp heading toward the switch

I have had it hit the castle! Loosen the bolts and realign that wireworm so that it hugs the ramp a little more on the left side. That should do it.

#2233 2 years ago
Quoted from yonizzell:

I still have 2.0.1 and my start up bong is missing as well ( has been like that since I got it). Can anyone confirm if that is normal for MMR?

That is indeed normal.

#2258 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Playing a lot of MMr lately, through a swap with another pinsider who like me wanted a little change, and graciously agreed to swap for a couple months. I've got the game levelled but when the ball comes off the pops, and rolls down the right side of the game, it almost always bounces off the top corner of the slingshots. Does this happen on everyone's game? I don't want to modify anything since it's not my game but it is REALLY annoying. Are all MMs set up like this?

A gentile bend of the ball guide will fix this. I did it to mine when it was new and I haven’t had the issue since.

1 week later
#2325 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Don't know about that... Even though minor, the operation buttons on the door are new. I'd be curious to play one and see how it feels.
Again, I feel that the build of AFM is more sturdy than MMR. Some people agree, some disagree.
Stern had their hands all over this thing, so I wouldn't be shocked if the CGC build felt even slightly better.

AFMr and MMR used slightly different coin doors. Looks like the CGC MMRs are using this new coin door with the new switches.

As for the sturdiness, CGC made the cabinets and play fields for all MMRs both Stern built and CGC built. Maybe they changed something, impossible to speculate.

I own both, both feel awesome.


#2329 2 years ago
Quoted from spazzman90:

Anyone know if they started the serial numbers over after the first 1000 Le's. Or is there only 1500 MMrs?

Standards started at 1001, I believe.

#2330 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Don't get me wrong... MMR is fantastic. I doubt any game will ever top it for me.
Only concern I have (which has nothing to do with the awesomeness of the game) is how well these fully integrated boards will hold up in the future.
I like that the original is serviceable, and I like that I can do simple stuff like change out bulbs.
I'm actually considering looking for a restored MM, but haven't decided if I'd make that switch yet.

It’s a great question. Hard to answer. Hard to know. Same question I have about my Stern SPIKE games.

#2338 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So the LE should have a speaker (sub) at the bottom of the cab? If so, I didn't get one!

You should work with your distributor to fix that. All MMRs have a speaker in the cabinet.

1 week later
#2357 2 years ago

As more people buy remakes, there will be folks who learn to work on the boards. And as they continue to be made, parts are available.


#2378 2 years ago

Owned the game for 2 years and never seen it!

3 weeks later
#2538 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

How long would you say before the chicago gaming logo and game screen comes up?
In my case, it never comes up even after a few minutes, you can even play the game blind and hear all the audio.

That’s not normal. Contact Chicago Gaming and open a support ticket for help.

#2547 2 years ago

The early run MMRs were built with flipper parts that had longer plungers than WPC 95 spec. A longer plunger will decrease the flippers upward movement and reduce power. Not sure how many left the shop that way, but I had an early one and just rebuilt with a new kit and it’s a huge difference. I was never unhappy with MMR at all, but the game is very snappy now with clean/rebuilt flippers.

#2551 2 years ago

Thanks for posting that. That’s what I just did to my game. They were a little longer and the new ones plus the rebuild after 2 years has made the game very snappy.

#2589 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anybody rattle proof their MMR glass for vibration from the shaker? Tape them?

My tape came in the mail today. I am going to install it soon and report back.

#2591 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Could you please post some pictures of the tape and where you use it? Mine rattles and I have been unsuccessful so far using some soft foam draft stop tape to try to stop it.

I didn’t get to install tonight. It’s the anti rattle tape from Pinball Pro. You apply it to the edges and it wraps around like a U. I’ll work on it tomorrow.

#2611 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Also curious to know how the tape works out. Not that it's a huge bother, but I guess if I could eliminate the rattling it would be better. Please update us.

It’s absolutely magic. Oh my god. I am stunned. It’s a very thin strip of tape that you apply parallel to the edge of the glass and wrap around to the back in a single, long stripe. You end up with two long strips, one on either edge of the glass longways. You wrap it all the way around to the back.

It was a two person job as you have to keep it straight and keep the backing peeled back as you apply it.

But it’s magic. I cannot reccomend this highly enough. The rattle is gone!

#2616 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

How much was the tape including shipping? Would painters tape work the same?

About $25


And worth every darn cent. Still amazed.

3 weeks later
#2686 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

When you just want to be sure

Are you sure?

#2699 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Recently I had a games meet at my place with about 30 people entered into the pinball comp spread over 12 pins (not all my games).
To my horror my gate failed to lower in the first comp game, the issue was quickly tracked down by the experienced pin techs there, the largest cog on the mech was spinning on the shaft. This seems like a very poor design destined to fail a simple spline on the shaft or a square section would stop this problem.
Mine is fixed with glue and seems to be holding up, I would possibly replace the cog but I can't see it for sale anywhere and it would just have the same issue anyway. (pic shows the glue on shaft)

Contact CGC about the issue and see what their advise is.

#2702 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

I just submitted a ticket and edited my post to better describe the problem, it's the Moat Bridge that is not lowering - the castle gate is working fine.
Will be interesting to see what they come back with as to me it seems to be a design flaw, I would prefer the shaft to have a spline, but they won't be able to supply that.

I believe the part is unchanged from the original design. Let us know what you find out from CGC.

#2709 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Yep I searched this issue and found no other people having the same problem so obviously it's not common, still it would never happen with a spline or square like other pinballs have in similar mechs.

Sounds like you simply got unlucky and your friends saved the day.


#2712 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Ticket answered, apparently this has only happened to 3 other machines (I wonder how many also had it happen but didn't report it?) and "there is no more robust solution"
I think what he meant was that CGC don't have a more robust solution, other games do have a better design for these shafts and cogs but MMR does not.
It was suggested that I contact my distributor for a spare part, I think I will do that and store it away in case this gets worse in future.
Yes I agree I did get unlucky, but I was the unlucky victim of a poor design.

Williams poor design, not CGCs. This is the same part as on the original game; the mechanical parts are all the same.

#2713 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Ticket answered, apparently this has only happened to 3 other machines (I wonder how many also had it happen but didn't report it?) and "there is no more robust solution"
I think what he meant was that CGC don't have a more robust solution, other games do have a better design for these shafts and cogs but MMR does not.
It was suggested that I contact my distributor for a spare part, I think I will do that and store it away in case this gets worse in future.
Yes I agree I did get unlucky, but I was the unlucky victim of a poor design.

Williams poor design, not CGCs. This is the same part as on the original game; the mechanical parts are all the same.

#2723 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I tried the AR-1 anti-rattle tape from PP, seems to make zero difference before and after. Cannot recommend it, it costs a lot, when my trolls come up, glass rattles as much as before.

Wow. It totally fixed mine. Maybe turn your shaker down.

#2725 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

It's on low/minimum already, the shaker strength.

You can also try rotating the weights to make the shaker less strong if it’s bothering you.

#2727 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

It's only when the trolls come up, the catapault and castle explosions are fine.

Interesting. Need to think about what that is. Is it the duration of the shake?

1 week later
#2757 2 years ago

Just the tape.

#2773 2 years ago

I spent $8,000 on a pinball machine. The game gets $4 worth of new balls every 3 months...

#2776 2 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

What do you guys do with your old balls? Recycle bin? I’m not sure they are on the list in my town.
P.S. “Giggidy”

I recycle them.

#2792 2 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Thx I just found the video after I started installing the code
I waited 15 minutes and still nothing
I powered down and then popped the as card out and now no DMD at all
I haven’t even lifted the playfield to touch the other chip

No chip, no color. The software is suitable for both color and non-color.

2 weeks later
#2844 2 years ago

Is it possible the ball isn’t aligned in the most properly to trip the switch? In switch test, see if the opto is consistently seeing the ball.

#2850 2 years ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

In the test mode, the opto is not seeing the ball. Game play consistently has to do ball search to eject it. I plugged/unplugged the connector several times....no change. Do I have a bad opto switch?

Potentially. Time to open a ticket with CGC for help.

#2878 2 years ago

MMR has a plywood bottom for sure. CGC made the cabinets for all MMRs, Sterns assembly is an implementation detail...

All the parts still originated from CGC.

#2889 2 years ago
Quoted from JJHLH:

Yes, all the remakes have plywood bottoms but I don’t think the older MMRs have the melamine covered cabinet. If they did they probably would have touted it in the original product description like they are currently doing with AFMr. A few months back this came up and a member said that his older MMr had a standard cabinet without the melamine. Again, I don’t know if this could account for a perceived difference or not, just mentioning it as a possibility.

I have both an original MMR and an AFMr. Not sure how to tell the cabinet differences to be honest.

#2898 2 years ago

It should be open when a ball is present. Get under the playfield and take a look; make sure it’s plugged in firmly, etc.

#2901 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Ok it looks fine from underneath. So interesting issue, If I turn the lights on in my basement and play it works. If I turn the lights off or really dim it seems to work 3 out of 10 times.

Please open a ticket with CGC for support on this issue.

#2905 2 years ago

Yup. It’s awesome. No issues, tons of fun.

#2925 2 years ago
Quoted from LFDOG:

I took a look under the playfield to make sure all was well - and, sure enough, the eject post for the trough was slightly askew and the sensor was not aligned. I reset it to the correct positon (alignment) and it is working well once again. How if got out of line I do not know, but I can keep an eye on it now.

A lot of vibration in that area, likely just shook loose. Great job on the fix.

#2936 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Well so my gate assembly is officially not working. It was intermittent, but now it’s fully stuck closed. I have it on loan at a friends house. I’m trying to order the new assembly but it is out of stock at pps. Anyone know of a workaround while I’m trying to locate parts? Can I just prop open the gate? Will the software know how to handle that (will it register a gate hit at the right time when the opto opens if it rolls on through?). I’m frankly shocked the software isn’t smart enough to compensate when I turned on the “caste gate broken” flag in the Williams settings. I would think it would register a castle destroyed after the appropriate number of gate hits plus one. Nope. Just makes it impossible to destroy a castle. Bummer.
Anyone have a source for parts for this assembly?

Is it stuck closed mechanically? Does it star stuck with the power off? Contact CGC for support. Even if out of warranty, they may be able to help with parts.

#2939 2 years ago

Can you please open a ticket with CGC for the issues you’re experiencing?

#2941 2 years ago
Quoted from LFDOG:

Will do! They are super-helpful. I just don't want to bother them until I at least try to answer the issue myself. I was having a Switch issue as well and they were very fast in helping out. A new Switch should arrive any day.

You’re not bothering them. They are happy to help get you squared away.


#2948 2 years ago

Who said software was simple?

#2953 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Anyone have thoughts on using a tooth pic to align the flippers on their MMr? My LE flippers are very slightly drooped and sometimes it seems a bit difficult to trap the ball.

I usually align them with a short straight edge from the lane guides to get the straight.

1 week later
#2996 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anyone know the specs on the post stud that secures the damsel ramp to the sling plastic on that side? The post stud is threaded on both ends and appears to be 1 3/8 6/32. It broke as I was wrenching the 6/32 nylock nut to secure the ramp. Can this be had at a hardware store or need to get it thru a pinball supplier? Thanks!

You can get it from McMasterCarr much cheaper

#2998 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Is the spec correct?

I am not 100% sure and I don’t have a simple way to check for a while. Maybe you could ask CGC or ltg to confirm the part?

2 weeks later
#3027 1 year ago

CGC has said that it would offer it in the future. I think it’s just a stay tuned kind of thing. I agree it would be great

#3033 1 year ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I've been debating about installing protectors. This is my first machine, and I'm wondering if they're necessary. I know the game was a big expense (I'm not using the word investment!), but how often do shooter lanes, castle moats, catapults and other places show wear in moderate use?
I'd like to hear some opinions. Are protectors necessary on HUO, or do they let you sleep better at night.

It really only matters if the wear will bother you. Nobody else’s opinion counts here.

If you want your game to show no wear, put the full protector set on.


#3035 1 year ago
Quoted from MacLean:

I'm seriously thinking of buying an MMr. I've played an LE at my buddies place for the past 2 years at our regular Friday night pinball tourny. He has A-list games including TWDLE, ASLE, DI premium, GoTLE, MET premium, GB premium, GNR & finally MMrLE. Clearly out of all of them MMr & TWDLE are my favorites.
My question; is the Pro or base version of MMr as much fun to play as the LE?

They are identical.

#3051 1 year ago

The Mantis protector set is a must have and isn’t that difficult to install.

#3058 1 year ago

I rebuilt my flippers recently with all new parts and the game played great after. There was some discussion of the plungers being slightly longer on some games. In any case, I was near 2,000 plays and did a full rebuild and the game is so snappy now.

1 week later
#3074 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Planning to buy another MMR pf from Planetary. Does anyone know if it comes with mylar on it?

Hi Damien,

I bought a spare MMR PF (because I am a nut and have spare everything) from Planetaery last year and I can confirm that it has all of the factory Mylar already applied (pop bumpers, trolls, etc).


#3076 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

And so we meet in a much more positive place
Thanks for letting me know. I'm going to buy one in the very near future.
Do you happen to know if the plastic ramps (with decals) on Planetary are compatible with MMR? On the site, it only specifies MM.
I'd post a link but I'm on my phone and it's a pain to search.

Not sure to be honest. I think they are the same to be honest. Maybe email them and ask?

#3079 1 year ago
Quoted from jallen3095:

How do you buy a spare playfield from them? Do you have to email them?

They’re on the Planetery Pinball site for sale.

#3085 1 year ago
Quoted from LFDOG:

Can anyone provide some technical advice on the Merlin's Magic eject? Mine is working "okay", but occasionally the ball sticks in there and, in a worse case scenario, won't eject until a ball search. I know I can just contact Chicago for support, but I thought I would float it here for just some general pinball tech skills. Is there a maintenance task (or set of tasks) that I should be performing to take care of my machine? Things that need re-alignment/tightening... just general "stuff" that a good pinball owner should do?
If there is a "general guide to pinball maintenance" I'd love a link! - I'm trying to figure things out as a new owner.

Hi there!

So, this one should be easy. The game is dumb. It only knows there’s a ball there when the switch is depressed by the ball in the Merlin hole. It’s just a little piece of metal attached to a micro switch. So, your job is to go and do some testing and see if the game isn’t always seeing the ball there. If it’s not, you’ll just have to adjust the switch so that the ball presses it down enough for the switch to close, and to close consistently. Switch test is in your users manual under diagnostics.


1 week later
#3116 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does anyone know what the warranty is for MMR LEs?
Is it two years? Is it parts and service?

I forget; but open a ticket for the parts you need and see how it goes.

#3131 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

This is very trivial and I know I can figure this out on my own but recently when I have been playing, my coin door has been opening up during my games which as you know locks your flippers up and I will lose my ball. I have a shaker motor installed and I know that is what is making the key move so that it opens my door. I have about 1200 plays on my machine and it just started doing this. I tried tightening the screw but it is not loose and I cant seem to figure out why all of sudden the key mech is getting loose. Anyone else experience this and have a fix?

Take the key out?

#3137 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

Yes I know but I don't trust myself with this....haha. I am horrible at misplacing items but I will prob do this until I get it fixed.

I hear you; I have a single jar that has all my keys in it, but a buddy of mine has changed all his locks to a single key, so, the changes of losing them all is so low

1 week later
#3163 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

With the pinbit Merlin protector is it harder to get in the scoop? I have all cliffys and the game plays great/same as stock. Not super worried but I do like to protect the game.

Not that I have noticed. The ring protectors lay flat.

#3168 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I am a new member of the club. Just bought a lightly used (about 100 plays) MMr standard a few weeks back. I love the game and am enjoying it but have a question about the castle drawbridge.
When I first hit it and it comes down. It isn’t coming down all the way. It sticks partially up until it is subsequently hit several times. Last night and it seemed to be be worse than before and the ball would fly upwards off the playfield when hitting it and richoteting. Is this normal or does it sound like the drawbridge on my game is sticking and not operating properly?

It should come all the way down. Paging ltg

#3170 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Thanks for the reply. The game has been this way since I bought it and I believe it is still under warranty. Would this be something that I have to fix on my own or one that should be covered by the warranty?

It’s probably just a simple adjustment. Lloyd should have an idea.

2 weeks later
#3230 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Replacing my flipper button, and when I went to put back the opto board, one of the three screws that goes into the cab is not holding. It just keeps turning.
Anything I can do?

This stuff works well:


Or you can glue some dowel in and re-drill the hole.

3 weeks later
#3344 1 year ago


#3365 1 year ago

They own the license. They paid for it. If you had paid for it, you’d protect your IP, too. Silly to equate it to anything else.

1 week later
#3401 1 year ago
Quoted from starbase:

Will Sterns HD glass fit this machine?

Yup! It’s a standard glass and will fit perfectly.

#3408 1 year ago

They play the same. MMR plays new.

1 week later
#3440 1 year ago
Quoted from Ray_Ayala:

How funny! My homemade guide looks cleaner! Haha. At least CGC will know I didn’t make this up. It’s a long weekend, so I don’t expect to hear from them until Tuesday. The game is playable so I’m not worried. I had to cut the opening up a little wider and now it works 100%. This game is so fun. Quite a bit tougher than the Pinball Arcade simulator. You can have a great game one time and then just an absolutely horrible one the next.

Good job on a temporary workaround!

1 week later
#3458 1 year ago

Bend the metal ball guide to change the escape angle of the ball.

2 months later
#3546 1 year ago
Quoted from rad:

Checking to see if anybody else is having an inconsistent issue with the right ramp diverter (Damsel/castle) - the diverter works (lowers) maybe 5-10% of the time for me when it is time to save the damsel. I can manually move the diverter and it doesn't seem to stick. Solder connection on the coil lugs/wires look good. Anybody else have any issues with that diverter?
Thank you.

The small blue driver boards under the game (3 of them) are identical. I would swap one around and see if the issue moves to a different coil after the swap. Would help rule out an electrical/drive issues.


2 months later
#3655 1 year ago

Does it stay stuck when you turn the game off? If so, it’s mechanical not electrical.

This happened to me. And it was the metal ball popper itself has a small pin that holds the two half’s together that had come apart and was protruding causing binding. Took it apart, made the pin flush and away we went.

1 month later
#3730 1 year ago

It really drives home the notion that these are hand-built games and they achieve their own feel and personality due to the subtle differences.

2 weeks later
#3760 1 year ago
Quoted from jdroc:

I joined the club this week with a NIB MMR! So far mostly so good but 2 days in I've run into my first problem. My tower diverter stopped opening yesterday and now is reporting stuck closed when in the Tower Test menu (T.17). I opened a ticket with CGC but figured I'd check to see if anyone else has run into this and has any ideas.
If I run the diverter test, you can hear the coil try to pull the diverter down but it doesn't go anywhere, like it's stuck. If I put the slightest bit of pressure on the top of the diverter while running the test it will retract every time. I can pull it down easily from below the playfield and nothing feels stuck...except me trying to fix it! (see what I did there?)
Excited to be in the club either way, she looks great next to my LoTR LE!
[quoted image][quoted image]

The tower diverter is a plunger and is pretty simple mechanically. I would take it apart under the game and inspect the coil sleeve and the plunger. The sleeve should be clean and shiny, and the plunger should also be smooth to the touch. Make sure there's nothing that is causing friction/hangs in the mechanical assembly.

1 week later
#3785 1 year ago
Quoted from marksf123:

What is the best way to adjust the switch for hits on the trolls? The right troll seems to work good but the left troll is hard to register hits.

It’s a leaf switch - look at the working troll and how far the gap is between the blades. The non-working one likely has a bigger gap - adjust the gap until it registers better.

4 months later
#3939 8 months ago

Yes. It’s part of the flipper. You have two and they’re identical. Look carefully at the working one and compare. You’ll find it.

1 month later
#3993 7 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Was the hack based on the most current code? ...and has it been released anywhere?

I do not think you can hack the code since it's assembled into a binary. My guess is that there's audio files and they've simply been volume leveled differently either individually or normalized as a whole. Just a guess as I haven't looked at the file structure.

4 months later
#4245 3 months ago

The best game of all time just got better.

2 months later
#4842 12 days ago
Quoted from SilverTarga:

Sorry if this has already been discussed or diagnosed in the past. I've been searching the forum but cant figure out my issue. I have a Medieval Madness LE that the Damsel loop is stuck open 90% of the time. Randomly it will close and loop back to the right inlane however it is my understanding that the ball should always loop back to the right inlane unless you are on the final shot and saving the damsel. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you I have been really enjoying going back in time and reading everyone's issues, concerns, praises, complaints. I absolutely love the game and plan on keeping it in my collection forever.

Next time it’s stuck, turn the game off. If it stays stuck, you have a mechanical/binding issue.

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