Sorry for the misfortune, but this gave me an idea. I might look into including a disposable paper or plastic "hammock" you can string across the playfield below the flippers while working to catch anything like this that may fall. Definitely will try testing something like this and see if it's practical, because I've done the same thing, numerous times, and I know better! If it works out, I can look at adding it to the kit sometime in the future. For now, I'll add a reminder about the possibility of this happening to the instructions.

I try to make the instructions as easy and painless as possible for all skill levels so pretty much anyone can successfully complete an install. So I err on the side of more instructions/reminders than less. The people that are mod pros can skip them.

But I am already thinking about the implementation of some kind of parts safety hammock. Can't way to try it out and see if it's worthwhile.

Depends on your play style and length of non-stop play sessions. The CGC games definitely have fade in longer sessions. Trap players will get the coils weak faster, but regular or defensive flip players can too, over time. If you're not having an issue of weakness or bricked shots later in long sessions, I wouldn't worry about it.

Here's the temp testing chart for MMr coils for a non-trap player. Not firmly in the fade zone until about 75 minutes in:
MMr Coil Test-sml (resized).jpg

Did you check inside the lip of the cabinet speaker? There about an inch or two that's covered by the speaker frame. If the clip hit the back of the speaker cone and slid down, it would be out of sight in there.

If only they had a "Find my EOS clip" feature on iPhone...

Yeah, losing the EOS clip in the under-playfield pachinko machine was not good. I have a warning about that in the instructions now. But now that you're past that, you'll have no more issues with hot flipper coils and fade, no matter how long you play.

F3 is clearly blown on the solenoid board. (Blue board in the center, the bottom fuse of the 3 on the left)

Also, do you have a multimeter?

Make sure you have a few 4A fuses (F3 takes 4A, slow blow), because if the coil is bad or the transistor has blown, that new fuse may blow again. It's why I asked if you have a multimeter.

The chart says 4A. It looks like the one that blew was a fast blow, so that may be the problem. It's supposed to be a slow blow. Once you get the fuse out, you can read the metal band at the top to see what the one that blew was before you give it a proper burial in the nearest trash.

Yeah, not going to cut it. You need to spend $50 for a cheap, disposable chinese multimeter like Klein tools autoranging MM400 or about $190 for a Fluke you'll have forever. That and a (weller, hopefully) soldering station are the first two tools for a pinball maintenance kit.

I would stick with 4A it calls for because if the coil or transistor is shorted, when you power up, it could pull an extra amp of power and blow something else up along with the new fuse.

Cheap chinese multimeter:
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Auto-Ranging-Klein-Tools-MM400/dp/B018EXZO8M

Fluke "forever" multimeter (apparently prices have gone up since the pandemic, but this is a GREAT multimeter):
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-117

Weller soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Digital-Soldering-Station-WE1010NA

Hakko soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

The one that dropped is not slotted, and it has a lock washer, which the flipper plate screws do not. It's more like the kind of screw you see on the gunmetal gray assembly just below the moat area on the right side.

It's a nice multimeter, but the lack of a backlight is a dealbreaker for me recommending it. Especially on a pinball machine it can be in the dark or bad lighting a lot.

Switch needs adjustment, or broken switch wire, or blown 12v fuse (I think the switches run off 12v on MMr, not sure) on the power board. If it's the ONLY switch not registering, adjustment or broken wire are most likely.

Yeah, Fluke is my go-to brand. But for the level of 99% of pinball diagnostic, if a person is on a budget and can't get the 117 with the TL175E test leads, I'd recommend a decent Chinese one with a backlight over a Fluke without. But the Fluke 117 is the #1 recommendation. It will be the last multimeter you buy.

Ah - what he said.