How do I add headphones to the MMr?
(Topic ID: 128232)
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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2 weeks later
Quoted from Damien:What's the best way to ensure that flippers are aligned?
Rock beat me by 2 seconds! lol
Put a straight edge along the lane guide and match the flipper to it.
This way the ball rolls down the lane and has a smooth transition on to the flipper.
This is a good starting point for further adjustments if needed.
Quoted from Damien:So I wedge a toothpick under the flipper bat rubber (I'm assuming the bottom of the flipper) and then place the other point of the toothpick in the alignment hole?
Then tight the bolt that holds the flipper in place, and see how that works?
For the straight edge route, can I just use a short ruler or level?
yes to both
I use a small drill bit.
the original had a goody bag with a wire for this and a flipper height tool in the kit
Quoted from pinballinreno:yes to both but not under the rubber
I use a small drill bit in the hole and just set the flipper with rubber on it on to the bit.
the original goody bag has a wire for this and a flipper height tool in the kit
If you use the small ruler adjustment style, you dont need the toothpick or drill bit in the hole
Quoted from tslayer71:Maybe use this webpage to contact Buckwerx and ask......
http://buckwerxaudio.com/
They dont list MMr so Ill email them. Thanks!
1 month later
Quoted from Damien:So a little Novus 2 will clean up the trails?
I have Mill Wax from a local Pinball shop. Is that a good one to use after to wax the pf?
Also, I was under the impression that new games did not need to be waxed for a while? I got mine in January, so it's only a few months old with about 500 games played.
Ball tracks come out pretty easy with a little novus 2.
Thin coats of pure canauba wax like Blitz or P21S (silver can) will protect the finish.
The idea is to wear out the wax surface before you wear the clearcoat.
Wax every 500 plays or sooner (maybe 350 plays to keep it like new).
Change balls out or inspect each time you wax (use a jewelers loupe to see all the imperfections).
Clean the flipper coil stops and sleeves of any black dust periodically this is where the black comes from mostly.
Done correctly and using pure carnauba, not any of the liquid type, the wax is as hard as rock.
Super thin coats of wax is the key. Contrary to belief, wax doesn't build up as each waxing tends to remove the prior coat.
Let it dry completely before buffing off.
In my opinion P21S it the easiest to use and has very little wax dust remnant compared to all of the other brands.
Quoted from AUKraut:MMR Shooter lane switch: should the metal piece the ball trips once it come into the shooter lane be vertical or at an angle sideways to the right? Mine is at an angle, which I've never seen done before, but all of my past pins had manual plungers.....
The switch wire is supposed to be vertical.
Maybe your PF has shifted to one side a little.
1 week later
Quoted from pinstadium:Originally I was concerned about that also, and I experimented on multiple early stage versions of the Pin Stadium kits, with and without diffusers throughout the creation process. With and without the awnings on top (the part that hides it from your eye when playing. The awnings were a must and went into the final production version without a doubt.
I found that the diffuser dulled the lighting and really didn't help much compared to the non diffused. Plus it limited the throw distance of the light and caused a darkening effect in some areas across the playfield due to the decreased illumination. When you get them you I think you will see it is a non issue the way they are designed and not distracting either. I hope this helps to clarify and good question too. I should put this in our FAQ's section also.
Maybe eliminate the led strip and use light tape?
Lots of glow and no led reflection. Plus you can hide it in C channel so no side leakage.
Also maybe Cobb LED films are super bright and can be cut to fit.
1 week later
Quoted from Damien:Noticed my right flipper sticking a couple of times... Is it likely to happen occasionally, or is this the sign that thee is binding or something else?
Sometimes its just dirty, the coil sleeve filled with black dust.
Another weirdness is the coil stop can wear slightly concave and exactly match the plunger shape. This can lead to the plunger "locking on" the coil stop and sticking.
The solution is to clean the coil sleeve and file or sand down the plunger end slightly to change its shape (flatten it out more), and maybe file or sand down the coil stop slightly also so they dont lock together.
I had this happen on my TH at 300 plays, the parts were barely worn, just so weird sometimes.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Damien:Starting to think my game has it out for me.
If you have a sec to look at this quick video, you'll see two brutal side drains right off the slingshots at the end. I played an MMR the other day, and it played nothing like this.
» YouTube video
I'm set at 6.5 and 0 degrees across.
I'm seriously ready to sell this thing or throw it out of the window!!! Hahaha
Drop the game down on the left side (horizontal pitch adjustment) 1/10 of a degree or a tiny bit more. This will correct the left orbit geometry and also correct the right side drains.
A lot of games favor one side or the other. Horizontal pitch adjustments will correct this.
Increase the pitch of the playfield to 7.0 to 7.2 degrees (average). The game will be less floaty. Adjust the pitch just to the point that the floaty-ness goes away, watch the game when others play it for a good over all view.
Its a misconception that games have to be perfectly level or that there is a perfect pitch.
Its a piece of plywood with a ball bearing rolling on it.
I look at how a game plays and tweak accordingly.
I look for balanced game play over-all.
Your video was great.
Quoted from Oldgoat:It's interesting. I had this exact same issue. Out of nowhere, the right flipper started hanging up. Couldn't find any rubbing anywhere. So, I cleaned it up, replaced the coil sleeve, re-positioned and tightened things up, adjusted the flipper, etc. None of these actions seemed to be addressing any noticeable problem; however, in the aggregate, viola, everything was fine. I'm confident that 90% of what I did was of no benefit. If you figure out the exact cause, let me know. I always hate it when something that was broken starts working but you have no idea why.
Un-even wear on the coil stops can cause un-even flipper travel.
Debris on the coils stops can cause flippers to stick as well as debris in the coil sleeves.
The debris is metal powder from coil stop wear.
Its very fine like toner powder and gets everywhere.
Quoted from Damien:I have close to 1000 plays, and I've had the sticking problem twice. First time was within the first 100 plays. Replaced coil sleeve, and problem resolved.
Now I'm getting it again, and even after replacing the coil sleeve and stop, the left feels a little stickier than the right. I have to take another look.
Make sure you check your flipper opto as well. This was a problem on my IJ.
Sand or file off the bottom of the plunger slightly. This will freshen it up a bit.
Quoted from Oldgoat:I've thought about doing this but I was always afraid that it would require some other adjustment and you get in that situation where you are adjusting a ton of things to get everything back to where it needs to be. (My trepidation stems from working on an old jukebox...there are about 300 different things that need to be properly aligned and as soon as you mess with one, the dominoes start falling)
So, can you safely file the bottom without needing to change things like EOS?
You just file it off slightly to keep it from sticking to the coil stop.
And remove any mushrooming.
1 month later
Quoted from Adams:I seem to have bent the flap on one of my trolls and it now doesn't really sit flush with the play field.
I tried to bend it back a bit but i'm worried about cracking it, is there an easy fix for this?
Replace the flap and decal. Its not too hard, just watch out for the clips getting lost. Maybe order a couple hairclips too.
1 week later
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I fixed it. There are 2 screws that go in the back of each troll head. In my case, the right troll top screw of those two had worked its way loose and was thrown out onto the playfield when the trolls came up. The screw could be finger tightened only, a wrench does not fit in the space there. Anyway, problem solved.
In a pinch, ignition wrenches or 4" craftsman mini channel lock will fit behind the troll head for tightening.
You can only go half a turn at a time but it will do the job.
1 week later
Quoted from gjm7777:Forgive my ignorance here, I'm sure it's probably been discussed, but with the PCBs in both the backboard, and under the playfield - are there concerns about this in the future? I'd love to get this game eventually, but people already freak out about the spike systems, on here it seems the LEDs are surface mounted on a custom PCB which is then riveted to the playfield. What happens if something breaks or an LED goes out?
All of the PCB's in a pinball machine are custom.
Surface mount is not a problem for repairs it just takes a slightly different skill set( its actually a bit easier to fix if you have the hot air gun some heat masking tape and a few other tools, IMHO...)
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from Damien:So the LE should have a speaker (sub) at the bottom of the cab? If so, I didn't get one!
post a pic of this?
1 week later
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I have a busted troll head. I bought my MMR Standard in Jan 2017. Anyone know if this is a warranteed item? I am ordering it from Planetary Pinball.
Get the cool red ones from Marco:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-2824-4
they look cool.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Damien:Quick question for owners. I'm approaching 2000 plays on my machine, and starting to notice reduced power in my flippers. A good number of shots to the ramps don't complete, and it wasn't previously doing this.
From what I understand, flipper could rarely go bad or even lose strength. The EOS gap seems fine as well.
Any suggestions? And is this normal/expected after this amount of use?
One other thing I noticed was that slingshot kickers we're very sensitive, and when I took them out, they were all bent. Straitened them out, and now it's working better.
Wall power has a lot to do with coil strength as well as debris like black dust interfering with the plungers.
I would replace the coil sleeves at this time and do a thorough cleaning of the assemblies, possibly even replace the coil stops and plungers if they look dished of worn while you have it apart. But they shouldnt need replacing yet, you can sand or grind off any deformations you might find and just put in new sleeves.
2 months later
Quoted from Concretehardt:Anyone have thoughts on using a tooth pic to align the flippers on their MMr? My LE flippers are very slightly drooped and sometimes it seems a bit difficult to trap the ball.
I use a drill bit that fits snug in the hole and is trapped under the rubber of the flipper for factory settings.
2 months later
Quoted from Smokezz:Every once in a while, the ball flies and lands on top of the plastic and under the ramp right in front of the catapult. Resulting in having to remove the glass to get it out. What are your solutions to this issue?
Lower the flipper strength a little. If its too low to make it up the ramp on a solid hit, lower your pitch a little with the slightly weaker flipper settings.
Play the game a lot and tweak as you go.
Quoted from Pin_Nut:Hi guys was thinking about pulling the trigger and buying a new MMr Standard. I'm reading a lot of people complaining about the clear coat flaking away is this a problem from the earlier runs or are they still occurring today. If this was a Stern issue people would be demanding that there playfields be changed, has anyone confronted CGC about this problem and if so what was their response?
Buy it! CGC is an amazing company and will give way beyond excellent support with any issues you might have.
They and JJP have been a joy to work with on all occasions that I needed something, even out of warranty support!
Since the game is pretty much an exact duplicate mechanics-wise, the same wear areas exist faithful to the originals.
The only way to avoid chipping on clearcoat is to not clearcoat at all, but its diamond hard stuff and will last forever.
It just happens to be very brittle and any unprotected edge might chip given the right circumstances.
All brand new cars offer mylar tape for any exposed edges and clear-bras for this very reason.
You will not get a brand new car because the clearcoat chipped.
You will not get a new playfield because an edge chipped.
You, the end user is responsible for edge protection these days even if the manufacturer doesnt offer it.
Clearcoat chipping is a non-issue, install cliffys for edge protection and mylars if the manufacturer didnt put them on and your good for thousands of plays.
If you are curious about these things, ask a route operator what they did to "harden" their games.
Quoted from Smokezz:My right troll just started having issues... pops up just fine but lowers pretty slowly. Not really sure what to look at underneath. Eventually it's probably just going to stay up.
It's probably just a little bent. Raise it grab a hold of it bend it back towards the back glass a tiny bit be careful don't cut yourself on the metal flap.
1 week later
Quoted from Smokezz:I'm not sure this is the issue. If I push up on the pin underneath it's pretty stiff right away. The left troll moves freely. I don't see anything up top that would be bent and stop it from moving freely.
...
Quoted from Damien:Like bamboo toothpicks? Can you show me the bamboo you're referring to. And just wood glue?
Regular bamboo skewers one would use for kabobs that you get at the grocery store.
Or just use a piece of a round toothpick placed on the hole with a little titebond glue on it.
I just cut off a piece 3/8 to 1/2" long with diagonals.
If one piece doesnt firm up the hole put 2 or 3.
This will be a permanent repair, it will last as long as the game will.
This is going to happen once in awhile, dont worry, this is the way to address it perfectly. Its not a hack.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Sam40:Easy to put in a switch for the knocker.....
Turn it off at night, and I'm good to go.....
I really like the switch idea a lot.
I think I'm going to try it out.
Right now I just unplug the knocker because it freaks out the cat.
Quoted from starbase:Hoping to join this club this week on a one owner LE. Cannot find any reason not to purchase this title and it sure seems like a keeper.
I thoought I read somewhere ages ago that the LE had a second clear coat or extra protection to the playfield. This true or even worth it?
p.s. I said I would buy no mods this time other then toppers and I am already 100% sure I need pinstadium in all my games, damn you pinside. I mean hug you pinside.
Same playfield on all games.
The LE should come with an amazing topper, the SE and classic does not.
Quoted from LTG:MMR doesn't come with a topper.
LTG : )
Oops thought I was on the afm thread 
Quoted from Sam40:To run Test 21, turn on the test, and then close the coin door.....
Or pull out the white switch as noted?
1 week later
Quoted from LTG:Williams didn't use a decal. I don't know if any are available.
The whole panel is : http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-04-10382-7A-1
LTG : )
Rick is supposed to have them in gold or chrome in stock.
1 week later
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Oh everyone is getting ripped off if they end up paying $600 for a slightly larger LCD (which is a price we are speculating on but I bet is a good guess)... it is just that no one got more ripped off compared to another.
I don’t fault CGC. There is a market and a desire and they absolutely should fill it.
Im a buyer for the new LE version when it comes out. The larger hd display Rocks!
I'm selling my huo mm to get the new game.
Quoted from pacman11:Trying to decide if I want to buy a MMR or wait and find an original one have any of you guys owned both?If so which one did you sell or keep? Any thoughts. I am a big fan of the way 90's Bally/Williams stuff plays.
I have both, I like the MMr better. Mostly because its new and plays like a new game.
Quoted from CubeSnake:I too have owned a MMr & MM. My MM is long gone (sold back around 2000) but I can assure anyone-MMr is the SAME game out of the box as MM.
That said, I prefer MMr since I don't have to worry about 20 y/o mechanics & electronics failing on me.
Plus adjustable coils etc.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I dont think its related to shaker.. because this comes and goes. and only happen when launching the ball. I thought I had it fixed by pressing on the coin door.. but nope.
Glass rattling?
Quoted from Oneangrymo:I think thats whats going on, how do I fix it?
Good electrical tape along the edges of the glass is a good fix. Properly applied you don't see it.
They sell anti rattle tape. It's pricey but has slightly better adhesive on it maybe.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Do yourself a favor and buy a roll of this. It is amazing for everything pinball related.
J.V. Converting FELT-06/BLK07525 JVCC FELT-06 Polyester Felt Tape, 1mm Thick, 75' Length x 3/4" Width, black amazon.com link »
Uses:
Along the side and back board of your PF so it doesn't scratch your restored cab or blades.
The inside of your backbox hinges to stop them from scratching your rails.
Apply it to one surface and the edge of your glass for rattle protection.
Apply it to the inside corners of your LDB so it doesn't scratch your rails.
I've also found a million and one uses around the house including for my slide on towing mirrors so the inside doesn't scratch my painted mirrors.
All that and you get a whopping 75 feet for just 12 bucks.
Bought It gracias!
1 month later
Quoted from Damien:Any particular pain that you would recommend?
Molotow high solid paint pens
Signal black.
Or something from Michael's in the black paint pen dept. Take a sample and match it up.
1 month later
Quoted from CubeSnake:I had something strange happen to my MMr last night...I had a few friends over and we're putting my pins through the paces and someone informed me that MMr 's flippers were retracting slowly. Sure enough I checked and they energized and launched the ball with no problem, but upon reseating, they both seemed to be in slow motion. This happened every time, not just on occasion. It was late so I just shut the pin off...next morning, everything was fine. Zero problems, no error messages (there never were any, anyway). Driving me nuts trying to figure out what happened and more importantly, how to prevent this in the future. Any ideas on this?
Flippers warmed up and plungers dragging in the sleeves.
Could be debris or just worn.
Coils stops grabbing the plungers.
File them flat again or replace.
Clean or Replace the coil sleeves?
Either way, remove the coil stops and inspect.
Quoted from northvibe:That was my first thought but after letting it sit it was fine the next day.... but for sure OP should check
Cooled down then it appears.
3 weeks later
Quoted from jaystile:I know everyone was waiting for an update with bated breath. Yes, a coil replacement worked. In other news soldering in place sucks. What are your techniques for doing solder work while fighting gravity?
Install a molex connector for the 3 wires.
Unplug it and do a better job out of the game.
I'm doing this all the time now, for each time I have to unsolder anything.
Just quickly install a connector. Takes 3mins.
Quoted from Goalie:Thanks, I think I found the correct part. 02-4425-1 Post stud 8-32 x 2-3/8 inches 5/16 drive. It looks like the correct size and Marco shows MM compatibility.
Yes, it's a common part.
Quoted from acidburn:Is there a tool that makes removing the pins easier?
Molex pin remover.
Or deftly release the little fingers with a needle or tiny optical screwdriver, sometimes both.
I also have had success using a piece of brass tubing that fit closely around the pin
Quoted from white1ce:General maintenance tips? I've put about 400 games on the machine since I got it a month and a half ago. I notice that every now and then I'll shoot the ball and his the drawbridge/gate and it won't register (very rarely), or sometimes I will get it through the castle multiball gate and the castle will blow up (again, very rarely). Everything else seems to be working well. Do you guys do anything special after x amount of games?
Start here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide
2 weeks later
Quoted from white1ce:Ordered, thanks!
Change balls out every 350-500 plays.
Hard wax it about the same frequency with blitz 100 grand or P21S silver can wax.
Quoted from Aardvarki:So, I've had my machine about 6 weeks, put about 800 plays on it, and I've got my very first "big boy" problem with it. I'm hoping maybe you lovely folks can provide some advice.
The tower exit solenoid, part AE-27-1200, got stuck in the extended position today. After saving the maiden, the ball ended up stuck in the tower, blocked by the extended solenoid bar. A ball search didn't save it. I opened up the machine and played around with the solenoid a bit, and it seems to stick in the extended position pretty reliably if I manually extend it. I did notice that if I rotate the solenoid plunger to a particular rotation, it sticks less, but all it takes is a 90 degree rotation to go back to sticking. So, I've left it in the middle of the non-sticky portion for the near term.
I also noticed that if I want to remove the solenoid to take it apart, I need to either snip a whole bunch of wire ties or cut the cables to it. I decided not to do that just yet. Is there a "best practice" for snipping wires and re-assembling stuff? Should I buy connectors so if I snip it and solder it back together, it's easier to disconnect in the future? Is there a standard for connectors in pinball machines?
Is a stuck solenoid a common problem? What about stuck solenoids at a particular rotation? What's my ideal fix here? Should I replace the solenoid? Is this something that might be covered under warranty?
Thanks everyone for all your advice!
Solenoids can stick up or down.
They should move freely and return to their starting positions via the return spring.
If they stick up is usually due to debris in the coil sleeve (black dust) or a worn sleeve. Or a broken return spring.
Take off the coil stop and clean the sleeve and remove all the black dust. If the sleeve is worn through, cracked or rough, replace it.
Check that the return spring is working properly. It can also be that the plunger is mushroomed and dragging in the sleeve
If it sticks down, its usually a worn coil stop or plunger mushroomed or dragging. Or again the coil sleeve is packed with black dust or needs cleaning or replacement.
If plungers are mushroomed at the bottom you can file them flat again to get a little more life out of them, if its not too bad.
Worn coil stops should be replaced.
Quoted from gunstarhero:Yeah 800 plays in it’s probably a sketchy/damaged coil sleeve or maybe the coil is loose and causing drag. I just had a newish sleeve that was dragging for no good reason in another pin of mine, just swapped it out and all is well.
I bought a couple dozen coil sleeves recently from marcospec.
Oddly half of them were poorly machined on the inside with shavings and were very rough.
They had to be discarded.
Next I'm buying from Terry at pinball life.
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Northfield, MN
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