This protector is made out of soft aluminum, you just need to bend it to fit the curvature of the hole.

"This piece is made of soft aluminum to allow for adjustment should there be excessive wear. You must bend this protector in order to install it. "

Remove the knocker fuse; it's F4 on the small circuit board located in the right front corner of the cabinet. This card also has a very nice enable LED that lights up whenever the CPU tells the knocker to fire.

You got that right, I turned mine on today for the first time in over a month and the date/time is off by over 2 days ... but in the future, it thinks it today is the 22nd. Date/time set again.

Brute force should do it

ugggh...

Just installed the XL display and it doesnt look as good as the others I've seen.

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Thanks LTG.

That would probably be good info to have someplace...Like on the front page of the install guide or even on a sheet inside the box ...

What's the best way to upgrade without a working display?

Maybe I'm just venting now, but for the $650 I paid for this upgrade you would think that CGC would have to courtesy to included a microSD with the firmware upgrade on it (They did this for the Color upgrade) and information that this needs to be installed PRIOR to performing XL Display mod.

Thanks for the input guys, I'm just a little aggerated that CGC provided zero information that a firmware upgrade was needed for the display upgrade.

Ok, I'm now worse off than I was before as I forgot to open the coin door so as soon as the firmware update began the knocker coil locked on and blew the solenoid fuse, this is the exact same thing that happened when I installed the firmware for the Color upgrade many years ago; this one is on me though for fixing the connector pin to the knocker when I first received the machine.

Even better, the update failed at 81%, tried again with the same result; going to reimage another MicroSD and try again.

This was not supposed to be an all day task

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It failed again with the new SDcard at 81% so enough for tonight. It does boot and appears to be playable, new screen and speakers are working; I'll see if I can get more information from CGC.

Still have the topper and RGB GI lighting to install, hopefully these go smoother than this did.

Sun of a ... These dont work, not class 10. I couldn't even make that out with my reading glasses on and a magnafying glass
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Update: they actually had the same results as the class 10 cards and since the main difference between them is WRITE speed, it looks like it really doesnt matter what class card you use.

Didn't make a bit of difference, failure still occurred at 81%

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/var/log maybe ... I'm assuming its a generic fail message and there is no way to actually look at it.

I downloaded the software again but didn't bother using it as it had the exact same checksum.

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eharan Thank you for posting this ... seems like it could be a common issue then and I wish I read this before I did any more dinking around with my mods for this machine. Interestingly enough, my game retained all the high scores.

In the box with the topper RGB control board I found this:
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So I gave it a go and saw that its v3.0Beta3 but the install also froze at 81% just like all the rest. I'm fairly certain you really don't need a class 10 MicroSD as the main difference between them is WRITE speed, the class 10, 6, and 2 Micro SD cards all had roughly the same install speeds, and all gave me the same results.
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UPDATE: It looks like both the RPG GI lighting upgrade AND the Topper upgrade kits come with a MicroSD card with firmware v3.00 on it, and its mentioned in the installation guide that its required for installation. It appears the ONLY upgrade kit that doesn't come with the MicroSD card and has no mention that you need to upgrade firmware is the HD display/Sound upgrade, which unfortunately for me is the one I started with.

It's old, built with one of the first run playfields that didn't need a diffuser. I'm not sure what firmware the Beagle Bone board has but it's my experience these are color coded mine looks to be blue violet.
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I can confirm this is a true statement...it's debatable if this is an issue, some will say that the mere fact that the code fails to complete successfully is in itself an issue regardless if the game works or not. CGC will say if it works it doesn't matter regardless if its a board issue or not. IMO this is driven mainly by cost as if they were to admit to an issue with the original boards used they would have to replace a few hundred of them. I am almost positive if I replace the Beagle bone board the problem would go away, it may also fix the issue I have with the knocker coil locking on every time you start a game update.

I haven't unboxed my kit yet but I plan on doing this mod over the weekend, I'll let you know what I find out.

Looks like I'll be cutting a lot of wires and crimping a bunch of molex pins for this mod. The first thing I did on the XL display mod was to throw away the wire nuts and remove the pre-soldered wires from the new Sub Woofer

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I decided that the best tool for this job was a flat pry bar https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-9-1-2-in-Pry-Bar-PB1-HDX/206509439 you can lay this flat on the bottom of the cabinet and just pound it through; for best results, you want to work side to side pounding it in a few inches at a time until you are close to the middle of the board. The original speaker came out much cleaner than I thought it would.

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Advice needed ... how to get a cable to reach that's too short?

MMR Topper cable is about 1" too short to reach the board and the board is EXACTLY where its suppose be. I really dont want to move the board as I still have the RGB GI Mod to do and if I raise the board then these wires may be problematic...

I'm actually a little perturbed at how they try to not use a cm more wire that is absolutely necessary.

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Not sure how you figure this as these feed from the bottom and if I move it up a little these wires need to be longer than anticipated by the engineer.

I'm annoyed enough, I think I'm going to flat out list it as defective and get a replacement from my distributor; problems like this should never ever happen. The sad thing is the cables on the replacement will probably be too short as well.

Does your topper also stick out 1/8" past the front of the backbox sot that if you lower the backbox, the topper actually rests on the glass? This was another unexpected surprise I ran into...I blame myself for this one for trusting the pattern and not trial fitting the pattern to the topper before I started

I even though of that right after I drilled the mounting holes...

IMO this is poor engineering...maybe I'm too detail oriented but I would never have passed this, with a half inch of free space behind the toper there is zero reason for it protrude past the front edge of the back box. It actually detracts from the appearance of the topper having it hang over the edge like that.

If you decide to drill these holes 1/8 further back. you are going to have to be very accurate as you only have around 1/4" to play with before the tee nuts wont fit.

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WARNING! This post contains only factual information and is presented without sugar on top so if you are easily offended you may want to stop here.
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In order to test this topper and board, I temporarily raised the board 2" by screwing the board to the backbox using its bottom mount position holes in the top holes in the back box; this is the MINIMUM height I would want it at to be able to connect the wire to the board without straining the connector and wires.

The next step was to install the small network hub, this device has to screw mount cable ties around it to mount it into the backbox. Whoever put these on really wrenched them down, no way these are coming loose; however, they obviously don't know what the application is for, and can either not read the direction, or the directions were not specific in any way, or did not have enough pictures of what it should look like. Its also possible they didn't give a damn and are just going through the motions.

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Yeah I see that, If I actually run this ground wire through the proper route, it will barely make it to the board...but, if I then raise the playfield, there is a great deal of strain on this cable, if I allow enough slack (per instructions) and route it through the split loom with the rest of the playfield wiring, the ground wire is right at 2" too short to reach the board in is raised location meaning it is cut at the exact length needed to work...this is exactly my concern with the RGB GI wiring, everything is so tightly spec'd to save that inch or two of wiring that if anything isn't right you are essentially screwed!

Thanks for pointing this out, I forgot about that, I milled a half moon shaped notch in mine so I can mount it in its original location. I dont really have to worry about it as code updates on my machine lock on the knocker and blow the fuse. When I discussed this with the CGC engineer, and asked if they can send me a replacement he was kind enough to let me know pinball life has good priced on fuses. I firmly believe that this issue, just like the code update is tied to the original Beagle Bone boards that were used in the very early production run.
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Holly SHIT! I forgot to put the plunger back in ... so much for being detail oriented...

I've noticed in a few pictures that some of you are using a Custom Williams Logo on your new XL displays. Would anyone that has this custom graphics file be willing to share it with me?

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I almost forgot to mention that the 7/16" yellow zinc self tapping screws seen in my photos are used to secure the Tee Nuts and prevent spinning are not included in the mod kit and were purchased separately.

I must be a glutton for punishment!!!!

Despite my Topper wiring being too short to reach the Topper board I'm continuing on with the RGB Lighting mod; unfortunately, the very first step of replacing the Glass Back channel proved to be problematic. You would think it would be easy remove 4 screws and put 3 back in with the new part, but nope the screws holding the lighting protector hit the back of the cabinet making it impossible to mount.

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I'm really starting to feel like a Beta Tester for all of these mods.

I resolved this issue, I filled the original mounting holes with wood glue and a bamboo BBQ skewer, then redrilled the holes for the back glass channel a little lower and it all worked out. Hindsight, It probably would have been easier to just oval out the screw holes in the new rear channel.

I think this statement is 100% accurate.

I finally finished all the mods and I'm happy to report they are all working.

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I did have to raise the Topper board by 2 inches for the topper to fit and I'm happy to report the RGB GI cable was more lighting cable was more than long enough to reach the board and I was even able to run it through the split loom. The original holes that I made from the pattern to mount the board did not go to waste as I used these to add cable clamps for a clean appearance as my LE had no mounting plate and few cable clamps. The one thing I had to address after moving the board was the ground cable as it wasn't long enough to reach the Topper board in the new location so I simply made a new one.

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If you are thinking of doing the GI Light Mod on an older SE or LE you may want to consider deviating from the manual on this; I did read ahead on how they planned to merge the 2 GI strings for the pop bumpers into the mix and I'm glad I did. If you think putting 4 wires into a wire nut located in a high vibration area is insane please read on ...

Note the augmented instruction require you to have Molex pins and connectors as well as the tool to make them.

The absolute best way to do this is with a Molex connector, and the only thing IMO that requires more the "intermediate level" level of experience that's mentioned in the instructions. Steps 42 for "Right2" and step 45 for "Left 3" tell you to leave these GI strands dangling after you replace the last lamp, and this is good advice as it makes hem easy to locate at the end but DO NOT perform step 47 which has you "Cut all of the wires from the Terminal Strip and cut the wires on the Jet Bumper Lamp side of the Butt Connector". Instead just cut both wires that go to the Terminal Strip from the last lighting sockets on both the Yellow and Orange GI strands (Right 2 and Left 3) as close to the lamp socket as you can in order to leave as much wire as possible to work with.

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Strip back both the Orange and Yellow wires and crimp them into a male pin, then do the same for the ORG/WHT and YEL/WHT wires.

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Then insert them into your Molex connector.

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Per step 50 in the instructions "Locate the Jet Bumper Lamp Cable." We are not going to use the wire nuts, instead install your matching Female Molex connector and pins on this cable. You will want to make sure to insert these pins in the Molex connector so the White wire mates with the White Striped wires and that the GREY wire mates with the pin containing the ORG and YEL wires. Once done, connect them together and route them for a clean appearance.
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So now what I need to work on is getting the RGB speaker lights to change colors with the game ... I thought I saw some information posted previously in this thread on how to tie them in.

Best of luck with your upgrades!

Congratulations! Im doing these mods to my LE as I missed the boat on the RE. The RGB GI looks really nice but the overall game seems to be darker than it was before I installed the RGB GI lighting kit; this makes sense as the white lights are going to provide more visible lighting than any of the colored lights.

Do me a favor when you get your game by posting a picture of the topper board so I can figure out where they wired the speaker RGBs...I speculate they are on the unused pins of the RGB2 connector and all I'll have to do is remove the pins from the speaker panel and insert them into that connector.

I KNEW IT! Thanks for the information and guidance on what to do! I'm gonna do it right now!

I also want to thank kapsreiter for his assistance with my Custom Logo!

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Done, now my game is exactly how I wanted it

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I know of 1 at RE pricing....
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I think My LE is now better than an SE though

They REALLY do! Even with all the problems to work around I'm really glad I did all these mods and have to thank the folks here on Pinside for their assistance with this project.

This would be the best solution, I also used 1" screws; primarily because I couldn't find any 1-1/4" #8-32 screws in my bins.

Ironically, the RGB lighting Kit contained 1/2" screws to hold all the light sockets when the original 7/16" screws are more than long enough for the job.

Do look at my post on this; its both better and no harder than what the instructions tell you to do.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/157#post-5959627

Several people have asked me how to install a custom image in their game, so I decided to post the instructions for creating/adding a custom logo, these were extracted from the Monster Bash Manual.
Custom Logo Instructions.pdf

Earlier today I was looking through some old pinball restoration files and came across a HD Williams logo; one thing I noticed was that there was a "R" style registration mark on it.

I downsized it and added it as my new UserLogo

The image I used can be found here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mGTVpmNuFG4XuzlKMgV6mqfLelrbMmwu/view?usp=sharing

Please don't download this and install it in your game, I'm only showing it here as a reference image.

Seems high, I was going to sell my perfect condition HUO LE (documented) for 8K (with the color chip) and pickup a RE, but the RE fell through. IMO the seller thinks his machine is worth more than it is.

GRATZ!!!!

I must know...Where did you get it and how much did it set you back?

If I was to sell my extremely low play HUO (documented) first run MMR-LE after installing the sound/XL display, RGB lighting, and Topper mods I would ask $10K for it, and I'm sure it would go quick at that price.

If you have the topper board from either the topper or RGB GI mod you can plug the speakers into it to achieve interactive RGB speaker lighting.

If you had an LE to start with it the only thing missing would be the mirror blades...and if it was an early run LE you wouldn't have a light diffuser installed to reduce the playfield lighting so you can read the writing on the inserts; all of the early run machines without this issues were Gold Powdercoated as CGC made the gold machines first. Plus as already mentioned you would have a cool ass serialized plaque.

I could be mistaken on this, but doesn't the RE have full RGB playfield lighting as well?

Keep in mind that this chart doesn't contain any information on the LE version and is only for currently produced games and that LE owners also had a choice between Gold Powder Coat, Black Powder coat , or Stainless Steel trim.

This may help with getting the logo image to be recognized but it wont help with the installation image since all partitioning and formatting will be overwritten by the imaging process.

If you are using Windows, you can't just simply format the drive that was imaged in this manner to erase it since the files in the data partitions are going to be setup as a Linux filesystem, which Windows cannot read; the best way to blank the drive will be to remove all of the partitions completely.

Before:
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After:
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The SD card is unstable at this point as it has no filesystem; the filesystem layout (partitions) must be recreated and then formatted.

After you remove the partitions, you will want to remove the drive and reinsert it for the new partition information to be reread, Windows can be flaky if you don't. You can then create a new partition in Disk Management; I usually create new partitions without formatting them and then format the partition in a different step, this is a personal preference. Just remember if you plan on formatting this as a FAT device the maximum allowable partition size for FAT is 4GB.

Finished:
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nothing. a decaled HUO machine just isnt going to see enough play to get worn.

3M Automotive trim molding tape, really good stuff.

I get that, I rub hand sanitizer all around the buttons on machines I play out in the wild.

You should read ALL of the posts I made regarding installing these mods on an LE.

They start here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/154#post-5943489

This is a good overview post for all the mods on the LE.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/157#post-5959627

Yeah...I'm not so sure about that. My Metallica Premium has had Hammer magnet problems since day 1 (like many of them) but after receiving 2 replacements and having them both fail in a short period of time Stern has basically washed there hands of these issues. My local distributor went through 4 of these boards and eventually sold his public demo machine with the hammer disabled.

Depends ... I have a first run low play HUO LE with XL display/sound package, RGB lighting, and topper mods all professionally installed. If it was for sale I would ask 12K for it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/157#post-5959828

I just checked this out, looks like a simple install; I'm going to add my STTNG, TZ for sure and may look into adding LOTR, and Aerosmith as well.

Thanks for posting this, now I'm going to have to check my sound. I'm being super lazy here, but is there a diagram that shows what signals are on each of those wires?

If you have an LE do not use the PCB board mounting templates they wont work well for you; also verify your topper mounting template before drilling any holes or your topper may extend beyond the front of your head.

Other thoughts:
My kit contained a 1-1/4" hole saw. I did contact CGC about this and they said "we ran out of the 1-1/2" hole saws but the one included in the kit is high quality and will work fine." It was made in China so I just threw it away.