(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago

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  • 661 Pinsiders participating
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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (6 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (3 years ago)

Post #4945 differences on all MMR versions Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #5853 Damsel trapper ball, Right troll trapped ball - fixes Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #6402 Speaker Kit and Widescreen upgrade manual Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

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#4638 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Left the club Sunday. Sold my immaculate day one order LE with 265 plays to a great pinsider who got his very first modern pin. I'm sure he'll be here soon hanging with the crew.

Oh yes, I am here. Actually been here for a while lurking and hoping to find a nice MMRLE. This MMRLE is beyond nice! This pin is so clean it still has the new pin smell. Lots of upgrades. Not a cheap investment but well worth it. And it was only 50 minutes from my front door. Now working on beating the high score.

1 month later
#4781 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

So the "exit" of the right orbit lane guide is directing the ball to the drain. I took a couple pics and it looks like the guide has a little twist/bend. When the ball is shot to the left orbit, rips around and comes out of the right orbit, where should the ball land? Left flipper or right flipper? How should this metal lane guide be? in front of the post or behind?[quoted image][quoted image]

The guide on My MMRLE sends the ball either into the right flipper (fast ball) or possibly into the right Slingshot (slower ball kicked out from the Merlin hole). Looks like your exit guide needs adjustment so the ball will not hit the rubber bumper.

Here is a picture from my MMR.
IMG_4298 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#4879 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

Can anyone help me turn the knocker and shaker motor off on my LE?
Couldn’t seem to find it in the settings.

The Shaker Motor Setting is in the System Menu Second page at the bottom. (Press and HOLD the Service/Credits button for 4 seconds)

I am not sure where the Knocker setting is, could not find that.

IMG_4641 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#4943 1 year ago
Quoted from ReplicaX:

I've had zero issues so far with my CE and have started to add a few things.
- Color Upgrade
- Mantis castle protector
- Cliffy's Catapult protector
- CometPinball blue frosted LED strips for back-panel illumination
First Day setup with the Color Upgrade installed.
[quoted image]
Pulled +/- from GI2 and crimped new pins to make it clean and strung through the loom. Pot located in the backbox to adjust back-panel brightness.
[quoted image]
Result so far.
[quoted image]
Glad to see others are starting to arrive.

Looks Great! Nice clean install on the blue led strip!

1 month later
#5284 1 year ago

I purchased a kit that included the LED's, Wire and resistor. I connected the LED's to the prospective flashers so the Troll eyes flash. I think it looks cool to have flashing eyes.


3 weeks later
#5400 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

mine looks just like yours, and I don't have any issues....

Mine also looks exactly the same with no issues. Interesting.

1 week later
#5552 1 year ago

Thats one nice lineup

1 month later
#6174 1 year ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Having an issue with MMr Fuse f1 (6.3a) blowing when I turn on, not all the time but say once a month!
So annoying as I've had to change it about a dozen times since I got the machine brand new, but its such an intermittent issue its so tough to track down.
Should I replace the little PCB that holds this fuse and or the PSU just behind it?
Raised a call with Chicago gaming when I first got the machine but as its so intermittent its a pain.

I had that fuse blow on me once as well. I replaced it and it never did it again. Not sure why it blew.

1 week later
#6309 1 year ago
Quoted from monte_:

Here is the picture where ball comes out and getting stuck.
[quoted image]

My MMRLE started doing that for a week or so then the problem just went away. It was really strange. Works 99.9% of the time now on first try.

1 week later
#6437 1 year ago

Got a question...

I recently upgraded to the latest software (3.0) on my MMRLE and now when it is at the end of booting it beeps 1 tone at full volume and displays a test screen just before coming online.

Is this normal? It is a bit annoying, its SO DANG loud!!!

3 weeks later
#6679 1 year ago

I like that. Great Idea. Think I will be doing the same thing! Thanks

#6722 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Hi all, this game is new to me, just got a Royal Edition. Love it.
Multiball stackup on the catapult - Any way to address? Had to basically stop an awesome game to pull the glass back had 3 balls in the catapult, stuck. The ballfinder kept trying to kick them out unsuccessfully.

I have had 2 balls in the catapult but never 3. 2 will clear after a few attempts.

#6758 1 year ago

I ordered and got mine. Just came back to this thread to check how you cut and installed the piece. I have plastic protectors on my game so cutting my piece to size now.

IMG_0704 (resized).jpg
#6760 1 year ago
Quoted from YZRider926:

If I recall it was only the Topper that would be limited. But only in the sense that they’ll make enough for people that want them now, and won’t be doing another run. Who knows though.

They know how to instill fear into buyers that want one and might be sitting on the fence.

#6764 1 year ago

Ok, got the missing piece installed. Looks so much better with this small addition. cut and polished the edges.

IMG_0707 (resized).JPG

NOTE: there is a notch in the plastic protector that I originally decided to not notch the new piece with this. WELL. That notch is there for a reason! LOL

I first installed the piece without the notch and quickly discovered the notch needs to be there for the drawbridge clearance.
IMG_0708 (resized).JPGIMG_0706 (resized).jpg

#6799 1 year ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

happens to me regularly, frustrating!

Sounds like there is a definite variant in games out there. My Merlin hits and stays about 85% of the time. It is when the ball really hits the Merlin hole hard is when it does not stick. Otherwise it stays. I have a cliffy protector. Have never played the game without the cliffy so not sure if the cliffy helps or not.

The curved metal entrance could have something to do with it as well.

If you have an iPhone or a way of taking slow motion video I would set up the video and watch how the ball reacts as it enters. That may give you a clue as to why it is missing su much.

I have used slow motion video to diagnose problems in the past and it really helps to determine why a ball is doing what it is doing.

Had a problem on my #hs kickback and use the slow motion and was able to determine why the ball was jumping by watching the video. It was the switch slot that was catching the ball and sending it into the air.

#6801 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Check this out fellows….a custom made, LIT, missing center lane piece. After about 2 hours of dremeling and modifying the framework, including modding the lighting, wala….pretty cool, huh???
Pretty cool how someone else is attempting to recreate these covers too.
I still have a handful left....when theyre gone theyre gone...don't think I will be doing these again, simply not enough time these days. Tks.
[quoted image]

That looks great LIT! Now I will have to lite mine as well! Like I do not have enough to do.

Can you send a pic of how you fit a light in there?

#6804 1 year ago

the ball should hit the flipper from either orbit, never drain or make it so difficult to control. I would say some "dialing-in" would be in order.

#6855 1 year ago

And that new pinball smell is the best!

#6920 1 year ago

Not sure why the original game did not come with a piece here. Even if not lit up still looks so much better than blank steel.

I am contemplating how to light the piece as well. Westsiderkg did a modification to light the piece. It may be the only option. Just such a tight space.

#6922 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Possibly it kept breaking on location testing?

Ive had mine on my MMR fo a week and it has not broken.

#6931 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

My guess is it would brake all the time...thats a high volume area....its a great looking plastic, but it really needs a plastic protector underneath to prevent this from happening

There are 2 other pieces in the immediate area. It is the middle of the 2 lanes however I do not see a lot of balls hitting the plastic area very hard. I have a protector there so I imagine it will be just fine.

#6939 1 year ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

thank you guys.
I remove the Mantis protector (installed by the dealer).
I also, thanks to ltg , put an thick washer under left screw of the Merlin mechanic, as mentioned.
We played >25 games and no issues any more with the Merlin hole.
I am so happy, MMR RE runs like hell now.

Good to hear!

#6948 1 year ago
Quoted from smallstocks:

The diverter is stuck open. How do I fix this issue?

Check to see if it is binding on the ramp. Check for loose screws on the solenoid bracket underneath.

1 week later
#7013 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

After a long journey I am finally satisfied with my missing center lane. To get to this point:
1. I had to create the center lane piece (FYI - I decided to make ONE more run of these missing center lanes for other MM owners, so if you want one PM me. This will be the last run, way too much effort).
2. Painstakingly dremmelled out the inside of the metal housing surround.
3. Lermods made a custom RBG led light strip, just small enough to insert in this very small space.
4. I originally contacted convolux for yellow playfield plastics. However, they only make them for the lower portion of our games and with all the effort I put into the front of the castle, including having Modfather and M&M do custom paint work, I wanted a full playfield plastics kits in yellow. Luckily, www.playfield-protectors.com makes a 9 piece kit (Germany) and they included extra plastic for me to make a matching custom center lane piece for myself.
WHEW...So after several weeks of trial and error, many playfield lifts, gaming downtime, and thrown out test parts, here is the final eye candy...ENJOY!!!
[quoted image]

Looks GREAT. I am struggling with the modification to the metal guide. I need some time to come to terms with it or think of another way to light the plastic without doing the modification to the metal guide.

Like the look of Yellow as well.

#7015 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

I hope you can come up with a easier solution than I did, what a pain that was, precision dremellimg the metal.!!!

That is why I do not want to do it that way. Might be the only option. I just don't know. Need to spend some alone time with the metal LOL

#7019 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Ya’ll are obsessed with this silly piece of plastic. Game looks great as-is, why fuck up your game?

Obsessed, I do not think so.

If you think adding that piece is F**cking up your game then don't do it.

Adding this piece really improves the look of the area.

I can relate it to painting a car and leaving the hood or trunk unpainted.

If you do not want to add the piece you do not have to but I have a hard time believing anyone thinks it is better without it.

It is cheap, easy and a no brainer mod that really improves the looks. You cannot ask for anything more than that kind of mod.

It does not have to be lit.

#7028 1 year ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

I agree with you Pin-Pilot, but its ok, in every hobby there are purists who want to leave things 100% factory, and modders, either way I try my best respect both viewpoints.
To me, symmetry in artwork and the playfield design flow is something important and a focal point. A large chunk of stainless metal, sitting by itself in the middle of the playfield is well...undesirable for some, like me, who are ok with modding their machines, and there should be no concern about this, 2 minutes later it can be removed without issue, no risk.
I'd kindly and very respectfully encourage any purist to think about it this way. If Williams or CGC made MM with a lighted center lane piece, who in their right mind would remove the center lane piece, including the light, and in exchange install a bare chuck of unlighted metal that pretty much matches nothing else on the playfield? Lol, head scratch moment??? Better yet, would someone remove say the lighted factory plastic where merlin mounts and replace it with a unlighted piece of stainless metal with no plastic art cover? Again, why??? The thought alone in either instance seems relatively illogical to me, but hey...my kids teach me all the time that I don't know much.
Anyway, maybe you see my point, maybe not, either way just enjoy your game however you like it and let's all try to be good stewards of the hobby. [quoted image]

Yes, Well said.

I have no problem at all making mods that can be removed and the game put back to stock with no signs of the mod. I would not do a mod on a game like MM that is not easily reversible or would change the pin permanently. I would want the option to be able to sell the game to a purist.

The mod Westsiderkg did is reversible. You would just have to buy a new metal lane guide. Not a big deal at all. If I do go that route I will buy a lane guide, modify that one then keep the other so if I sell the game to a purist the pin can be put back to OEM condition.

I get some want a pin that has not been modified. Everyone has their preferences.

There are good mods and there are mods that are so-so. This mod is easy and a no-brainer.

#7038 1 year ago
Quoted from TimBoch:

Another interesting castle thing is completing a castle during multiball and having a ball get stuck between the bridge and gate. Game has to go into search mode to release it after multiball is finished.

Yes, there are a few interesting combinations that have happened. Had a troll close on a ball during multi ball as well.

#7045 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

I ended up removing the plastic And then carefully bending the end of the ball guide out. There was no way to adjust by loosening the screws since the holes in the bracket are not slotted. Which was a bummer. Now after ejecting from the merlin saucer it drops down missing the sling and hitting the right flipper.

I think this is the better way to work this problem. A slight bend to the end of the ball guide at the red bumper is the way to do it.

#7052 1 year ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Hi. I’m a pinhead who’s stuck in the 90’s. I’m at my local arcade 3 days a week. They rotate 20+ pins that range from Jumping Jack (1973) to TMNT (2020) and while I try them all, I end up spending 95% of my time playing MM, TAF, TZ, Whirlwind, Funhouse and World Cup Soccer 94.
I’m not smart enough or handy enough to keep a 20+ year old game working, so owning a pin was never a real option. I wasn’t paying attention in 2015 when CGC started doing Remakes, and only found out about CGC very recently. TOM and MM are my favorite pins and when I discovered I could get a MMR NIB in the year 2020 I had to join this club.
I officially joined the club on Tuesday when my MMR CE arrived. 5 days in and I’m absolutely amazed at the quality of the product CGC produced. It plays exactly like the MM at the arcade (which is maintained to perfection by the owner). I’m thrilled with my purchase! Only one complaint...
As I’ve seen others mention in earlier posts, the callout volume level is low. The music drowns out the callouts too much. This is not a problem with the MM machine at the arcade. While the music is good, the callouts are what separates MM from other pins with great layouts and rulesets.
So I’ve seen the complaint on this board, but never seen a resolution. Is there one? I notice that the software in my machine (3.0.0 Beta 1) has a “subwoofer adjustment”. The range for the adjustment is from -127 to +127. Is there an optimum adjustment to emphasize voice over music, or is the mix messed up no matter where your subwoofer adjustment is? I’ve tried a few adjustments and can’t really find any level that makes much difference. But with 255 different positions available, I haven’t tried them all. Can anybody help?
My dream scenario is that CGC fixes the callout volume problem tomorrow and on the same day announces that TOM is the next remake. That would be a hell of a great day!

Welcome to the club. MM is a great pin to start out with.

#7057 1 year ago
Quoted from N101AA:

I've had my MMr for a few months now and notice when the ball drops in the left inlane from the ramp, sometimes it will bounce and find its way over to the outlane instead. When I bought the game a cliffy included, but not installed for the left inlane. I put the cliffy on and the ball still would bounce over to the inlane. Any suggestions of adjustments I can make to prevent the ball from hoping over from the inlane to the outlane when it drops from the ramp?

Mine would do the same thing. Loosen the nut that holds the wire cage to the sling shot and experiment with different positions. The attaching point is slotted. Try moving it either direction. That fixed mine.

1 week later
#7088 1 year ago
Quoted from AncasterStan:

Just joined the club with my MMrLE... it's a wonderful trip down memory lane to when I was much younger...
The only issue I am experiencing is the right troll does not pop up when Troll Mode starts...the only time it popped up was when a ball was stuck and the machine did its ball locating cycle. Error message pops up upon startup indicating a switch issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club. Sounds like it should be an easy fix.

#7099 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I have a MMr standard. Are there any mods I should consider? What are the best add-ons?

There are a ton of mods. The basics are plastic protectors, cliffy, and Mantis protectors. These are more essential to protect the playfield.

There are lots more "Mods" that add character to the game and light dark areas

One of my favorite mods is to light the Troll Eyes.

Here is a link to mods:


#7124 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Looking to buy a friends MMr LE from a coup,e years ago....What were they new? Did they come with color chip? So many diff MMr its hard to keep track

$8000 would be a good price I feel.

There are some things to consider:

Color chip is a big one. The original owner was offered a discount to buy the chip, hopefully your friend bought it otherwise I think they are about $400.00

How many plays on the pin?

I consider mandatory upgrades are Cliffy, Mantis and plastic protectors. There are many more but they are more on the MOD side of things.

I installed the Troll Red LED lights that light with the corresponding flasher.

For reference I purchased a MMRLE with color chip, Cliffy, mantis, and Plastic protectors for $8200.00 about 6 months ago. It only had 246 plays on it and from original owner. I feel it was a fair price. Actually think he could have got a couple hundred more with such little plays. I was happy with the deal.

1 week later
#7210 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Does the Mantis MErlin protector cause rejects?

I also have cliffy and Mantis and all works great.

#7213 1 year ago

To clarify, I only have the cliffy on the Merlin hole.

#7216 1 year ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Look what I just dragged in from the porch.
[quoted image]

You got some work to do Sir!

1 week later
#7304 1 year ago
Quoted from ktm450:

Installed software update 3.0 in preparation for when my kit finally arrives. What have they done to the shaker code? It goes nuts! Way harder than it was in the previous software. Definitely need to tone it down. Hopefully I can just use the settings in the menu rather than moving the weights. I didn’t have enough time to play around with it before nightshift.
At least it kept my high scores.

Yes, there is definitely a change in the code for the shaker. Much stronger and activates with more actions.

I ended up shifting the weights because it was so strong even on the lightest setting.

2 weeks later
#7430 1 year ago

My right wire ball cage delivers the ball perfectly to the lane and registers 100% of the time.

My Left Wire ramp exits the ball at a little angle and maybe 5-10% of the time also misses a registration from the lane switch. I would not advise trying to bend the wire ramp. I would be afraid of the tack welds breaking if you exert too much force.

I just deal with it. I adjusted the wire ramp best I could to get best ball exit.

#7456 1 year ago

Arriving tomorrow is my XL display and sound upgrade. A little pricey but a nice addition for sure.

#7463 1 year ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

That’s great, make a video! Who did you order it from?

Ordered it through PPS last week. They posted in the MMR thread they had a few ready to ship. I had been thinking about ordering one but did not want to wait a month for it to be shipped.

#7469 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Hmmm....I've never seen or heard of a secret weapon.....I've been in this mode 4 times and have never beat it....although the first 2 times I had no idea what I was doing.

It is tricky to beat. You have to think ahead of the birds. I have finished it once. Usually get to about 20 then a kid is taken... As for the secret weapon? Never heard of it until now.

#7474 1 year ago

Yes, Barnyard madness is very amusing. Lots of great sounds but very difficult to get to Barnyard Madness.

1 week later
#7506 1 year ago
Quoted from HarryReimer:

Since upgrading to V3 the shaker motor is insanely strong... anybody figure out how to tone it down?

Yea, there has been posts about this issue in this thread. I ended up moving the counter weights on the shaker farther apart from each other to tone the vibration down. There is no setting unfortunately in settings. They need to install a setting to adjust the Shaker.

#7509 1 year ago

Worked Great!

The allen set screw on the shaker however was EXTREMELY tight. I did not think I was going to be able to loosen it. It finally gave way.

#7569 12 months ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

here again
[quoted image]

Is the Topper PCB available standalone anywhere?

#7572 12 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Just the topper board ? If so check with Planetary Pinball Supply.
LTG : )

Not sure if I want to get the topper. But would like to have the speakers change colors if the PC board is available by itself.

#7574 12 months ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

every person who has ordered TOPPER + RGB kit have received 2 boards
so you should find here many 2nd hand

Good to know.

Beuller? Anyone want to sell their spare?

#7596 12 months ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

I´ve got the "missing" pastic by Westsiderkg; great work, looks like factory built in[quoted image]

One of the best simple improvements to MM

#7627 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinball-NJA:

What’s the best way to get a high score in this game?
I know about attacking the castle for most points, but is there a way to get the multipliers up high or any other strategy toward getting a GC?

Castle Hurry-Ups can add a lot of M's to your score as well. Here is a description. Be sure to get take advantage of Hurry-up multipliers...

***Castle Hurry-Up

The rule about Castle Hurry-Ups is somewhat confusing. If you've just completed Damsel Save, Catapult Slam, Peasant Revolt, Joust Victory, or Trolls! (in single-ball play), and this completion lights the corresponding Madness for Multiball Madness (i.e., sets the light to flashing), then this completion will NOT light or extend a Castle Hurry-Up. Otherwise, it will. In other words:

If you haven't played Multiball Madness yet, you won't get a Castle Hurry- Up unless you repeat something you've already completed.
If you have played Multiball Madness (but not yet Royal Madness), you get a Castle Hurry-Up every time.
Trolls! won't give you a Castle Hurry-Up during Multiball Madness.
You may also start Castle Hurry-Up via a Super Skill Shot or Merlin's Magic award.

The Castle Hurry-Up value starts at 1M and decreases rather quickly, to a minimum of 250K. Collect the Hurry-Up at the Main Entrance, regardless of the state of the current Castle.

If you complete another row of lights which would normally start a Castle Hurry-Up while one is running, the Hurry-Up resets to a higher value. The second completion adds 2M to the Hurry-Up value, then each successive completion adds 500K more than the last. So the Hurry-Up is worth 3M with two, 5.5M with 3, 8.5M with 4, 12M with 5, et cetera. If there is a limit, it is at least 25 million. The Hurry-Up counts down at the same speed, so there is no need to worry about it timing out if you have at least a double going.

Each Hurry-Up collected is counted (so a 3M Hurry-Up counts as two), and (default) 10 Hurry-Ups lights Extra Ball at Merlin's Saucer. A second EB is available at (yeesh) 40 Hurry-Ups.

Here is a good web page for rules...


#7636 11 months ago

Here is a post of how I added the color changing option to the speakers if you did not buy either the topper or the GI lighting option.

I have a MMRLE. I only purchased the XL display upgrade. If you do not order either the Topper or the GI RGB upgrade your speakers will stay blue all the time.

I saw a post here #6993 by kapsreiter and he described how to make the speakers color changing. A couple Pinsiders were upset about the speakers not changing colors.

kapsreiter added wires to a connector on the Topper board and the speakers come alive with color changing.

Well I only bought the XL display option. The kit comes with a larger sub woofer and XL display with speakers that have color rings integrated. However they only stay on the color Blue. You can change this color by moving a couple pins on the Speaker ring wiring but I wanted the rings to change colors with the display.

I purchased the Topper board from eharan after asking if anyone wanted to sell their extra board. Same board comes with the topper and the GI RGB upgrade kit. So you end up with extra board and wires.

You do need the wires to make this work!!!

Here are the pics of my install and a video link of the speakers.

IMG_1365 (resized).JPGIMG_1366 (resized).JPG

#7641 11 months ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Keeping with your pictures, love that by the way, thank you. If this is the right wire does a tool exists to remove the pins in an elegant way?
[quoted image]

Yes, that is the connector if you JUST want to power another color other than blue. The two wires (BLK YEL) power the speaker LED's. The blue wire is currently powered. to power red you would have to replace the blue wire with the red.

I did not make any changes to the plug, with the post I made you just plug the connector into the Topper board. You can see the connector on the bottom right of the Topper Board. That is why there is so much extra wire on the speaker panel.

#7646 11 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

My "Topper kit" came with a Topper3 pcb board. My machine, when purchased, had a Topper2 pcb board installed. Per CGC, I've installed the new board made all connections and all is working. For the time being, I left the other board installed and hooked up - all still works. Per CGC, I can now just remove the Topper2 board altogether (don't know what happens when I unplug the connectors on it tho??)
But, if this Toper2 board is not required, and it will do what you need, more than welcome to have this one? I'll PM you if after taking this one out and hopefully have no issues. Let me know if this will work for ya.
[quoted image]

I did find a Topper board. The revision i have is 1.1. It is installed and running great. Love the color changing speakers. See post #7636 above. Thanks for the offer. I am sure there will be more that want to do this.

#7655 11 months ago
Quoted from cmstruth:

MMrRE I snagged in Florida for a great price, bolting to the floor
[quoted image]

VERY EXCITING. Nothing like having a nice MMR

#7665 11 months ago

I remember reading back in this thread that someone had problems upgrading to 3.0. I think it finally took on the 7th try. Hope it all works out.

#7671 11 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So last night I got into the video mode and a got to the end where I was able to get an extra ball. I think I had to save 21 kids? ....pretty cool as I needed that extra ball

I have got video mode at least 8 times (via merlin hole) but never have finished it. 20 I think is the most I have saved.

#7690 11 months ago
Quoted from broada:

I recently installed the RGB GI + speaker/XL display upgrade kits, along with upgrading to version 3.0 code. Since doing so, my MMR LE makes a loud tone on startup. I imagine it is an error of some sort, but I can't figure out where. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?

Mine started doing the same thing after installing 3.0. And it is LOUD. I posted about it and another insider also said the same thing. Not sure if it is normal or not at this point. It is really quite alarming!

I do not get any errors when I press the enter button after startup.

#7695 11 months ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

Mine does not make any loud noise on start up after installing 3.0.

There seems to be a mix. I may try to re-install 3.0 to see if that removes it.

#7701 11 months ago

I was thinking it was only bonging loud with LE or standard. Until PtownPin chimed in with no loud bong (I looked at his collection and he has a LE), I only saw a Royal that said his game did not make the loud bong.

I just reinstalled 3.0 and it still makes the obnoxious loud bong.

Here is a video of the last part of install in time-lapse.

#7707 11 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Every real WPC game makes that sound, so obviously the remakes (which emulate the WPC hardware) are going to make it too. Even their arcade games make that sound. It’s their way of saying “Hey! I’m on!” and it needs to be loud enough that the operator could hear it in a loud environment. It’s normal folks.

There seems to be a variety of normals here.

My MMRLE before V3.0 did not make the startup bong. And some here are saying that their game does not make the sound. In a home environment it is not needed and actually a bit annoying. I would turn it off if there was an option to do so.

#7711 11 months ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

Mine doesn’t do it... Same machine

Here is a pic of my board in the head. Rev 1.1 on the main board. Not sure what board would be making the loud Bong. Can you look at yours and see if there is any difference?

I would like to get to the source of this bong and see if I can eliminate it. May just have to live with it if it is a board issue.

Screen Shot 2020-11-04 at 10.51.21 AM (resized).png
#7713 11 months ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

I have the same board set and get the loud bong since upgrade to 3.0. I also have the moat kickout intermittently firing. I see the flash and hear the kickout during play. I checked the opto with switch test and it seems fine. I will have to dig into it further. Have any of you seen this issue?

Have never had my moat VUK fire for no reason. At least that I have heard or seen.

#7729 11 months ago
Quoted from Theboatnics:

Joined the club today got a little surprise when Fedex Delivered it yesterday though.
I accepted it because it was the last MMrRE NIB in existence i think or that i could find anyway.
So it looks like I am doing a decal and Fedex will pay a damage claim.
Played last night played perfect out of the box !
What a cool pin !
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, Welcome. Sorry it came with extra work. Guess it could have been a lot worse. I'd go for a new cabinet. The forklift arm may have damaged the wood as well. Or make sure you are reimbursed for the labor to do any repairs to the wood underneath. I am sure it is minimal however you will probably notice if the wood was damaged through the new decal.

#7733 11 months ago
Quoted from broada:

I heard from CGC on my ticket about the loud startup tone:
'What you are hearing is standard in all the WPC era games. It is the WPC system coming on line. It is in the original code and unfortunately we cannot remove it.'
I asked about the volume of the tone, and was told over the phone that the tone occurs before any code that controls the amp's attenuation is online, so we are hearing this tone at full volume. Could be that the upgraded speakers are more efficient than the previous speakers, so this full volume sounds quite a bit louder.

I wonder why it is happening to a lot (including myself) AFTER upgrading to 3.0.

There was no tone when I was running an earlier version ( I do not recall the version).

Then there are some here that do not have the tone. Still strange.

It is not the end of the world issue however there seems to be big inconsistencies !

#7738 11 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I’m in the midst of installing all 3 kits and I seem to be missing a part. This is pin-pilot’s picture that I borrowed (thanks!). I’ve circled the part I think I’m missing. There is a Y-splitter/cable that takes the original 12v and powers the original controller and the new topper PCB. This cable has all female ends. The source cable is also female. It appears I should have a female-to-female adapter. It’s not listed on the parts list for any of the manuals, but the GI manual does make mention of a “power cable adapter”.
I have a ticket open with CGC, but it would be nice to get some validation that I’m not missing something obvious. For those that already installed their kits, was that adapter included, or was it already attached the the 3-connector power cable?
[quoted image]

Yes, It is called a Z-connector. I purchased just the board from a pinsider and he sent this connector I believe with it and other cables. But you can buy one here:
IMG_1406 (resized).jpg

#7758 11 months ago

The only improvement I noticed is the voices are easier to hear over the background sound with V3.0. Other than that the only other reason I see to upgrade to 3.0 is for the larger display and the topper and the RGB lighting upgrades that require 3.0

#7765 11 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I soldered the new sub in as well. Getting the old board up was a pain. It didn’t just lift up from one side as the manual suggests. It split in half, and then again. On the last corner the wood split horizontally leaving 1/8” or so. The only way I was going to get the rest was with a sander.
I’ve already spent 2x the time on this than I expected, and I still have the topper to finish tomorrow.

Soldering the speaker wire is the best way to do it. Wire nuts is not a long term solution.

I used a putty knife to remove the speaker base. Took my time and did not force anything. The staples were the hardest thing to work around.

#7822 11 months ago
Quoted from ktm450:

Just a quick one for the people installing the subwoofer, in the upgrade kit they give you 3/4” long screws to screw the mounted speaker to the cabinet. They were way too short for mine, I would expect with all the vibration it would have came loose fairly quickly. I ended up using some 1” long screws which were much better. Other than that and missing a few cable clamps the kit was very straightforward to install. [quoted image][quoted image]

You bring up a good point. I also noticed the screws were too short. The big problem would be transporting the pin would possibly dislodge the speaker and cause damage.

I ended up installing "T" nuts to solve this problem.

I imagine you can also add some glue like was done at the factory.

#7824 11 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This would be the best solution, I also used 1" screws; primarily because I couldn't find any 1-1/4" #8-32 screws in my bins.
Ironically, the RGB lighting Kit contained 1/2" screws to hold all the light sockets when the original 7/16" screws are more than long enough for the job.

1/2" for the under playfield light sockets? Those, I would think be very close to going through the top of the playfield!

1 month later
#8006 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Could someone help please. Trying to change the custom logo. Tried 2 different SD cards now. Formatted to FAT32 2 times....still get this error over and over again, help! [quoted image]

You may already have these instructions but here is a post that details the process.


#8009 9 months ago

I have had cards that would not work as well. Just keep trying. Like Highscoresaves says above. The process can be frustrating. You are probably doing it right just for some reason certain cards do not cooperate.

#8011 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

I am using a SanDisk Ultra. What cards did you guys eventually used that worked? The buggers are expensive, hate the thought of buying multiple cards just for this....thanks again for the help, thought I was going nutz here with this.

SanDisk Ultra is the card that I have also. I have also used a Lexar. Try any disc you have. The instructions say use high speed card but don't limit yourself, try anything. Make sure you are formatting it correctly.

#8015 9 months ago

That is a good question. I had the stock speakers before I upgraded. I put the speaker panel in the box the new ones came in and put it in the attic. There really is not a market for them. At least that I have seen.

Maybe good for upgrading another pin sometime down the road.

2 weeks later
#8073 9 months ago
Quoted from erak:

I put Pingrafix powerblades in my MMrLE today. All I can say is WOW!
The playfield was definately easy to unplug to get out. But way easier getting it back in.
They really make the game pop. And feel more interactive.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look pretty darn cool.

1 week later
#8103 9 months ago
Quoted from chillme:

Thanks, I've had the same problem and will give this a try.

There is a fine line on this bend. Like LTG said if you bend it too far the troll will not go up and down as it should. Ask me how I know. LOL

#8114 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

So I finally got the 2 sd cards back from CGC. 1 has a custom logo on it, the other 3.0.0 software update. After several attempts, with me actually pressing on the beagle, the 3.0.0 loaded. What's interesting is none of the beagle fingers appear bent? After this I tried 10 different sd cards with the custom logo for uploading. Zero sd cards with the custom logo worked. Same error everytime, sd card will not mount. ARGH! CGC claimed both the sd cards I sent them worked perfect at their shop. No idea where to go from here since CGC closed my ticket too.

It should not be this difficult!

4 months later
#8536 4 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I have a MMR LE with the xl display / enhanced sound installed and during game play it sounds like most if not all of the audio is coming from the right speaker. Is this normal ?

Interesting, I am not at home to check my sound but will have to check this out when I get home in a week. I have a sub hooked up to my MMRLE so I have not noticed if sound is only coming out of one speaker.

#8538 4 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I believe the issue only effects MMRLE with the XL display installed. Both speakers worked on the original display.

I did install the XL display and speaker setup. So my setup is probably off balance as well. Just harder to tell with the sub-woofer blasting away.

#8541 4 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

If I remember correctly when I installed the XL display it came with a small adapter cable to go between and connect the 3 pin molex to the 4 pin molex connector and it was labeled as if needed in the instructions. I’m thinking all the games that need the adapter cable might need re wiring.

I seem to remember that as well.

1 week later
#8547 3 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I have a MMR LE with the xl display / enhanced sound installed and during game play it sounds like most if not all of the audio is coming from the right speaker. Is this normal ?

I just checked the sound in my MMRLE with XL display installed and the sound is equal out of both speakers. I have not looked at the wiring but when I installed it I just followed the directions. Wonder if there was an issue that was discovered and corrected. I ordered and installed my XL display about 4 months ago.

3 weeks later
#8597 3 months ago

The Red Troll eyes is one of my favorite upgrades!!! A must do!

#8599 3 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I bought a set of trolls from planetary for $36 and ordered some 3mm 12v LED’s and wired them directly to the flashers. $40 total to DIY the trolls. Or $4 if you don’t buy and extra set of trolls.

I did exactly the same thing. I wired them to the respective side flashers as well. With extra set of Trolls you can take your time to do it right. It is not an easy task getting the led's in the trolls but the red eyes add an extra troll meaness factor.

#8602 3 months ago

Question... Are the MMRR toppers all sold out? Any retailers have any left for sale?

#8611 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check with KingPinGames he has all 3 kits. Someone asked about buying just the RGB, so he might have one to sell.
LTG : )

He had one, SOLD 10 minutes before I called! Grrrrrr

#8615 3 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I know they sell individual rgb led modules on the planetary pinball site if you really wanted to get into it you could make a harness - you just need one of the boards that comes with the rgb kit / topper or xl display to connect them to. I’m sure a bunch of people that bought the kits one at a time have the extra boards to sell.
These are the lights they use:
And these are the style connectors:

I appreciate your thorough response however. LOL

#8618 89 days ago

Love the slow motion sounds. Like a dungeon would sound

#8628 88 days ago

To clarify, All the lights on the playfield are dead? What about your display and backbox? You are getting power from the outlet with the LED's on your boards working.

I would start looking for connections under the playfield and in the cabinet that may have come loose. Give everything a good looking over.

#8634 87 days ago

When you power it up, are there any chimes from the speakers? Is the game booting up just no lights. Does anything happen when you press the diagnostic buttons?

2 weeks later
#8675 68 days ago

Maybe frustrating but nice easy fix.

1 week later
#8694 56 days ago
Quoted from W25ARE:

Pin-Pilot. Hi it’s probably weeks too late but i’ve found some stock on https://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php
I’m based in the Uk & they are in Germany. But I think they ship to most places. Unfortunately I missed out on a Royal MMR. I had it reserved for a day this time last year but couldn’t get it due to work being limited etc. I’ve just ordered a topper as in the future i’m hoping Cgc will make another run of cabinets, but not sure if they will make more toppers. I can see most people say there will be no more Royals. But I would be happy with a SE or even a CE. Have also ordered a shaker too. Just hope I don’t have to wait too long[quoted image]

Thanks for the thought. I was able to find one thanks to a friendly Pinside. It is sitting on top of my MMRLE. I just need to get to installing it.

#8705 55 days ago
Quoted from W25ARE:

On the MMR comparison table for the SE it says back panel lighting. What is that, is it the back of playfield or the back box? Also I see in some earlier posts people who were adding upgrades were saying the RGB speakers & pops don’t work without changing wiring. Does the SE come with one or both of these installed? I’m planning on ordering a SE in hopefully 2023 . I can see when comparing it to a RE it doesn’t have the topper or shaker, so i’m ordering those. But have many people added mirror blades to their machines & what is there by default? Last question (sorry am excited) has anyone changed the legs, lockdown bar & trim to black, or are owners happy with the silver? Ideally I would want a RE but clearly no more are being made. Either way I don’t mind the last two questions, just wanted to hear opinions, thanks

I have the LE. I upgraded to the XL display, comes with lighted speakers. I also have the Topper but have not installed it yet.

The lighted speakers by themselves only glow 1 color. If you want them to change colors with the game you have to install the board that comes with the Topper or the RGB light kit.

I believe the reference to Back Panel lighting would be the back box. There are flashers on the back panel on the playfield but those are wired into the game. So really not sure what it means.

#8711 54 days ago
Quoted from 2Fun:

Does any one know what goes in this hole? It has a t nut, but I have no idea what screws into it.[quoted image][quoted image]

Here ya go...

IMG_4185 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#8817 6 days ago

When more than 1 feature stops working at the same time I think Fuse first. Or driver board, or something in common. Both these Solenoids are controlled by the same driver board. There are 3 fuses on this driver board. I would start there. Visually inspect for any obvious fuse but take them out and test them even if they look good.

Here is a pic of the driver board and fuses.

IMG_4964 (resized).jpg
#8825 13 hours ago

I have one and would be happy to sell it to you.

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