is there a trick for pulling the speaker panel out? Mine is "stuck" and doesn't want to lift.....

Yeah, felt like something was holding the lcd down still...,

I think it is usual? I see it on my sterns as well. But as someone else asked, can you feel it or is it smooth?

What install steps have you done so far?

If I shipped you a micro to standard sd adapter, do you have a PC with the standard adapter?

As for install, yes you need the chip installed, the Sd card is only new software so the game should work even without the chip.

Have you tried you old Sd card again?

I just did this and I forgot hahah.

If you go to the menu I know you can find it. There are versions listed for software, dmd software etc.

The new version should be on a nib game.

Here is the manual
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf

Page 31
Hold escape for ~4 seconds and you will get a cgc menu and that should list the software versions

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I have an LE, but I got mine so late, I'm not sure if it was built at CGC or stern...but ugh...it feels so so good. The quality on this mmr, gives me no hesitation to buy any other game they remake or recommend them. My gosh is it gorgeous.

bleep/beep, however he gets the f and maybe part of a u out.

Yeah, I asked about the swear rom before it was made and never heard a real answer from Rick, so I assumed no :/ Wish they would of put a adult mode in the code like stern.

Why wreck my hopes and dreams! I just yell the f word any way

I agree, you shouldn’t have to drill new holes for a mount for a brand new game. Check with distro and/or cgc tech support

Just got all the Cliffys installed. The one inside the castle isn’t bad at all! It looks bad but the moving towers remove super easy (4 bolts) and you can get in there easy peasy!

If you’ve been waiting, get er done!

It will wear it just is a matter of time and number of plays. All up to you. It was a small investment to have protection and doesn’t alter game play.

I did a full cliffy set. If you did the inner castle the catapult is easy! I do need to check into the mantis though.... also Amy Merlin protector?

Got my game working fully. Been a long time but finally took the left troll out, which is ultra easy btw. Black set screw and boom it’s apart. Adjusted the switch which was stuck close and put together.

The dmd/speaker panel was stuck to the head by the sticky foam that must of flipped. Pulled and adjusted. Now it slides in/out without sticking.

SO SICK OF KEYS getting lost, looking the same. My friend swaps to these...I have a bunch on order as all my games are being swapped, no real reason to have home use games on keys....yet. Once my kid can walk and turn things...I may be in trouble.

With the pinbit Merlin protector is it harder to get in the scoop? I have all cliffys and the game plays great/same as stock. Not super worried but I do like to protect the game.

Small adjustments are normal with pins, even nib. My machine did this exact same thing. Which I posted about, ran the test fiddled with the mech and it just started working. No diffinite answer to the repair but once you see where the gate starts to hang up with the glass off, you’ll get an idea on where to start

Isn’t there a 1way gate on it? See how the ball is getting back out. Huh. Weird, may have to take the glass off and use your fingers with the ball to monkey around with bounce outs

Hahah. I posted something meant for another thread, but didn’t see a delete :-p

I haven’t been in the mmr thread much lately, but I love hearing stories like this

I love the forum too. The help and experience on here is amazing

I saw a sticker some where.....

Must of been out of country or something I can’t find it

is your draw bridge catching on the way down? Mine was doing this out of the box. I didn't adjust but it started going all the way down, however it sure is close as heck on the left side. I may have to adjust.

I got 2 balls stuck in the catapult last night for the first time ever. it tried a handful of times and finally 1 made it up and dropped to the lower ramp, so the 1st ball could launch.

So for some reason my MMR last night was super squirrelly and was flying balls around the pf like it was GB's.....

Do you have a handful of games?

Are they all on the same circuit?

15 or 20amp breaker/circuit?

I’ve had some funny issues when all my games are on.... but not that on my mmr

That was my first thought but after letting it sit it was fine the next day.... but for sure OP should check

Ghost of old trolls past.....causing a ruckus

So the "exit" of the right orbit lane guide is directing the ball to the drain. I took a couple pics and it looks like the guide has a little twist/bend. When the ball is shot to the left orbit, rips around and comes out of the right orbit, where should the ball land? Left flipper or right flipper? How should this metal lane guide be? in front of the post or behind?

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Ya looks like the bottom of the guide needs to be bent/pushed out as it’s behind the rubber of the post. Thanks! I’ll check it out

I have dimpling on the pf of mmr but the cabinet is way better build than my GB prem

I forgot to look at my game, I have a few Beagle board blacks laying around from projects but I wanted to leave one with the game for future issues. The BB is just a beagle board black, in MMR /LE correct?

afm is on the line, the 4th game I would assume and if demand is there I would suspect more standard mmr's I would hope. Demand seems to be there for it still.

OHHHHh another Minnesotan!

You can bend or adjust the ball guide as it exits the orbit. I also had to do that. I think my metal ball guide was behind the rubber post sleeve so it would bounce off that and go to the drain.

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Hahah, it adds some fun for the castle explosion for sure, I need to tame mine down some.

You could do the gi update for $250. But requires a lot of labor to install

We should start documenting cards and if it worked. Like brand, size and class, plus format and from what computer. Sometimes macs format fat32 messed up, for example

Speaking of, I think I updated my game without issue back when I got it, but I should go look to see what version it’s at now.

I do plan on getting the gi and display update at some point though!

If this is the correct update process, than either the beaglebone sucks at compatibility or the cards aren't being formatted correctly.

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update

I'll try mine in a little bit.

Oh boy, just updated my Ford explorers sync 3 via usb and that went about as well as the horror stories from this thread :/

I’ll try a couple ways and document!

okay, on my mac, building the img file manually via dd to the sd card and i'll give it a whirl.

Worked great on the first try.

Created on mac osx
Need to be partially familiar with terminal and/or diskutility. One comment for the windows people, after the image was created on the sd card, it was Fat16 formatted. I would recommend following CGC's guide (https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update)

Get your computer, sd card, sd card reader (if needed) and download the .7z file from CGC link above. You'll need to extract the 7z file and you will/should be left with an .img file. This is what we will flash to the sd card. I left my cgc files in the downloads folder, this is the location I'll use for my example.

Here is my SD card, a sandsisk ultra plus 32gb
IMG_1030 (resized).jpeg

Here is my game at current/before update values
IMG_1024 (resized).jpeg

Put the SD card into your mac
Open Terminal app
type in: diskutil list
Press enter. This will list your drives. OR go to disk utility and select the SD card/drive and see what /dev/diskX your sd card is. Ex. Mine was /dev/disk2
now that we know the /dev/diskX we need to unmount the drive so we can copy the img to it
Still in terminal
type: diskutil unmountDisk /dev/diskX
Now to send the image over
type: sudo dd bs=1m if=path_of_your_image.img of=/dev/diskX; sync
ex. sudo dd bs=1m if=~/Downloads/MedievalMadness300Installer.img of=/dev/disk2
Press enter
This copy will take, forever. You can use Control+T to see if it is still writing to the card, but yes it most likely is. When done you will see the command prompt back at the home.

Once done, to eject do it via gui or type sudo diskutil eject /dev/diskX

Turn MMR off, insert sd card w/ gold contacts facing you, into the beagle bone board sd slot. Power game on and it will star the self update.

IMG_1026 (resized).jpeg

Once done
IMG_1029 (resized).jpeg

Via cgc you can use apple pi baker 2, or even u-netbootin apps to flash the img to your sd card. For windows users, they recommend Win32 Disk Imager.

I don’t think mine has that? They look the same to me
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Edit: damn I forgot how amazing the inside of these games are. Cab is soooo neat, new and clean, aahhhhhhh

I was going to check this for you, but the cliffy covers it all. Here are pics of the outlines though.

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Were you getting errors before?
what sd cards have you use?
Do you know what made it work this time?

I’d be curious if this is a beaglebone issue with it reading the card or a carrier board issue where it isn’t correctly booting up and pulling off the cd card

We did some of this som with usb boot flashing via sd on a product at work. I mean that is the only hardware there for this, the beaglebone and the carrier board. If the SD card is correctly done, then it isn't going into boot/flash mode. I'd be curious if all the beaglebones were same version/gen. I snagged a spare and threw it in the coin box incase my BB ever died/broke. And there is a new BB out, wonder if cgc is using the newer one in the new games? Wouldn't be a bad idea to see if the new BB fits the mmr.

BAH i should get that one too!

Does cliffy made a CF for the merlin scoop?

i swear I also had to do this. I think if you get them up, you can remove the "door" then it will come out via under the pf.

What have people done for flipper button wear protection? I usually put lollipop rails on my games. For my MMR I remember hearing the side rails are a pita to take off (glue/sticky tape?) and was thinking of getting the clear ones from PBL, attached.

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Ohhhhh I like this.

For some reason I get the feeling my kids and guests will get the cab gross with dirty fingers :-p this just puts my mind at ease. Otherwise all my games have the armor have covers

I used my shirt last year but man it doesn’t help all that much if it is super greasy.

There is a product....we have pinball lip balm, we need button cleaner

If anyone has the MMR GI kit, is it worth it? I've seen just 1 YT video and it seems pretty sweet. I liked the effects on afmr.

Well that is great to hear. I am ordering the GI now, I'll get the XL a bit later. But I've only played an amfr le and seen 1 YT video and it looked sweet. The game is a keeper for as long as I can , so I figured I'd put the mods on.

I don’t have the kit yet but this may be of some help

Do you remember if you’ve ever updated code on your game?

My gi kit came today

I updated to 3.0 a week or two ago just because I saw an update. I’m ready!!!!!

If you read up, someone posteed about it. but start here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/151#post-5908163

EDIT: didn't read fully, US available led board. Gotchya. Let me look

Yaa, read too quick.

Just need to know on the original german ones, is it +, 1, data in, data out? There are some chinese rings that could work, but just need the wires/pinout for what is required. Adafruits are 5v, these chinese ones are 12v.

These are worth a shot. They have the little nub cut out and the disc is only 20mm vs 26mm so it may fit without cutting.
http://lightsandparts.com/product/flat-round-rgb-3led-dimmable/

let us know!

Otherwise the cheap way is to take a 12v rgb strip and just have the 4 wire leads and stuff that in the pop housing or do a ring around the cap.

the only good thing is you can barely see the pop caps from the player position

ah ok. I'll keep looking. Otherwise a single led could work.. hmm ok should find a few options.

EDIT: ya so if anyone is looking, it is a 12v non addressable rgb led. Tons of 5v but the 12 is the harder one. Almost seems like someone fabing a board to fit a smd led(s) may work better :/

I wonder if Zitt would be down to make for a small run? Otherwise comet has the pop bumper "pcb" but they only do 1 color. Would need a pcb like that with changed schematics for RGB w/ 4wire

like this

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In the gi kit?

Looks to be custom made. Non addressable single smd leds. If the pop bumper needed 12v I can only assume these are as well.

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you could do your own 12v rgb strips or leds, just make sure they are non addressable and tap them into that four wire harness.

You could even do a 4 position Z connector, then made a whip with two ends to splice it without cutting a wire.

It truly is one of the best games because of the entire package. I also am pondering an afm because that also is a similar amazing game, and well not good enough to get deep into code or really care it “is a similar layout to mm”. Just a ton of fun and that’s all I like, fun games for me and others!

I’ll be selling mine when I order the XL screen and use the old screen for vpin. Not sure how long you’d want to wait

Edit: nvm the chip is needed on XL display as well

Whaaaaa? Oh. Ok nvm. I saw someone sell one so I just assumed I didn’t need it. Nvm.

I would contact PPS and ask if you can get the original price. May say no, but worth asking.

So i have a mmr le and the entire game is nice plywood. I heard someone mention that the "standard" pps titles were made using mdf? anyone know for sure?

I pulled the pops apart on my GB prem and they have an independent led board inside to do rgb, however it is 5v.

Just finished installing my Color GI kit into MMR Le..
PITA - pop bumper wires are not long enough, the top glass trim had 300 staples (6-8), my kit was missing wire management (loops) and the ethernet splitter zip eyelet broke off.

Finished product looks freaking amazing. The longest parts were just harness routing and feeding through, then the stables on the top glass trim. I have a video I'll try and get up of original vs color. Totally worth the update imo. Just set aside a 3-5 hours and work through. The instructions were 90-95% excellent, with a couple differences but there were a handful of different builds so understandable. Nothing that made me stop and think it wouldn't. work.

those hold the coin mechs in the coin door

Yea, there is a plug or something, someone mentioned it a page or 3 back. The instructions are in this thread. May have to search or flick back some pages. I'll post if I find them.

Here is a side by side of the color gi

I’m going to use my original in a vpin, I’d assume more vpin people have and would use it

For a gold le? No. 12k is like royal money as it has all the mods in. Le’s are usually 8500-9000

Ya, you got a deal at 7800!

I love my MM, but also wish cgc would release the next game. I suck at pinball so the 90’s Williams are just fun all around

which side art

Just the mirror/chrome ones?

Oh dang I didn’t realize they did mirrored!

I don’t mine Brian Allen’s trans and blades but it is just so different from the original pf art :/

Mirrored Bg would set it off as “special”

Yes, the vpin people can use this as the display is dvi/hdmi and being in a standard speaker panel may help some out. Otherwise the display alone could be refit to a new speaker panel as a bigger lcd.

The GI kit has a main board the topper plugs into.

oh neat, didn't know this was a thing..... I finally got around to ordering the topper and XL....mmmm going to be a sexy mmr. I got some parts for the pops rgb....see how it goes.

I have skimmed their video a few times. Don't recall what exact issues, as I have only installed the gi kit, which i ran into some issues on. I'll check it out again, but yeah, i'll need to hook up the speaker rgb as well.

which version of MMR do you have? I guess there are different board sets used in the game as well? Like the original LE run vs the standards etc.

For the pop bumper lights? Iirc that was the only spot for wire nuts....

Oh man well I forgot where I mounted my board relative to the template.... parts come next week, I guess we shall see!

Mmmmm Royal with le

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Pretty sure “yellow” but I’ll go look

Edit: look yellow ish/orange.

image (resized).jpg

Can we make this a key post? Took me a day and a half to find it again... but now I have rgb speakers!

Thanks for posting that! When I heard about all these mods, I really was "warm" on them, they seemed expensive and well MM is all gameplay right? Well these mods are like heated seats in a car. If you never have them, you never know what you're missing out on, but once you have/play/use them, you NEED them. They seem to work great together and immerse you into the game/color. I'm not into "clown" puke but they do so well at changing color at pauses or when you don't need to flip, then going back to normal during gameplay/flipper use. MM will be the last game I ever get rid of and I'm glad I did these.

Just need to put the rattle tape on the glass, enable the shaker again (maybe low this time) and do the rgb pops w/ clear caps. Oh and get the williams logo on the display

Nice, this is my plan, I have the rgbs and the clear covers but haven’t started the mod yet.

what logo do you have in your dmd?

the color speaker trim looks great!

Yup, they are blue unless you do the "mod"

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/151#post-5909393

Mmm, ya me too. Kinda lovin it. I need to do my rgb pops, but my mantis castle lock and merlin protectors came in....ohhhh man what a gem of a game.

I'll probably do the cf cliffy as well on merlin..... mantis's are usually inside and cliffs are outside so you can sometimes (depends on location) double up. The castle one is really needed as that bare wood takes a beating. I did the full cliffy kit on the MMR except merlin as he didn't have that one yet. the under castle ones aren't as bad as you'd think.....

Royal? Mmm idk about $14k? But prices seem to be in flux with some random game sales that were higher than usual. I think earlier this year they were about 11-12k

Idk, they retailed at 10k…

I did it on my LE, not too bad, but I for went their template for the topper and made sure the topper fit on the top the way I wanted it. If you go a page or so bad, someone mentioned the template pushed their topper over the lip and so it sat funny. Also use painters tape where you have to drill to help flaking off the wood/paint.

Do you have a color chip?
Did you update your MMr to the newest code?

Have you checked the cables are seated firmly? (top of the beagle bone is a micro hdmi that then runs to the display and is converted to dvi. make sure all those are tight and the dvi adapter is screwed down.

Is there a thread or talk anywhere of putting the XL display on a "classic" remake (any of them)?

I opened mine up today and similar to the Arcade 1up arcades, it is a basic video conversion box that takes inputs to the lcd panel plug. I have never seen the baords/plugs used on a classic version of the game, but since they use lcd's this upgrade to a XL should be pretty simple.....

yup came to suggest adding a little foam to that metal angle piece. Easier than adjusting/bending the metal

beer seal, target foam, window/door insulation, kind of all the same just different size/squish/stick

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/162#post-6068655
That is what I was thinking of

There was one update before the Royal, I remember doing, but don’t recall what was included.

However the color chip should just be a plug n play swap with the stock, under the playfield