(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

6 years ago


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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (6 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (3 years ago)

Post #4945 differences on all MMR versions Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #5853 Damsel trapper ball, Right troll trapped ball - fixes Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #6402 Speaker Kit and Widescreen upgrade manual Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)


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#2660 3 years ago

is there a trick for pulling the speaker panel out? Mine is "stuck" and doesn't want to lift.....

#2665 3 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Nope, should just lift, allowing you to pivot it forward....
You did remove the translite I presume....

Yeah, felt like something was holding the lcd down still...,

2 weeks later
#2754 3 years ago
Quoted from BrewskisBar:

Not sure if this has been discussed, but is it normal to see so much of the wood grain on the playfield through the graphics?

I think it is usual? I see it on my sterns as well. But as someone else asked, can you feel it or is it smooth?

#2783 3 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

About how long does it take to install the color upgrade
It’s been about 8 minutes and nothing has come up on the screen
Also where does the large chip go? It is not on the directions

What install steps have you done so far?

#2794 3 years ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

Unfortunately I have no way to do anything with the small SD card I’ll call automated in the morning and see if he is can mail me out a new one

If I shipped you a micro to standard sd adapter, do you have a PC with the standard adapter?

As for install, yes you need the chip installed, the Sd card is only new software so the game should work even without the chip.

Have you tried you old Sd card again?

2 weeks later
#2866 3 years ago
Quoted from jaystile:

I picked up my MMr yesterday! Everything seems to be running in tip/top shape. However, I wanted to check to see if the emulator software needed an update: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php is there a way to check to see what version the emulator software is running at? At startup I only see 'Ye Olde Medieval Madness' logo and 'LOADING'. (btw, I'm just assuming that it is an emulator please correct me if I am misunderstanding the architecture)

I just did this and I forgot hahah.

If you go to the menu I know you can find it. There are versions listed for software, dmd software etc.

The new version should be on a nib game.

Here is the manual
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf

Page 31
Hold escape for ~4 seconds and you will get a cgc menu and that should list the software versions

180353BC-A4A4-404B-B6C5-77346DE99FCC (resized).png

#2872 3 years ago

I have an LE, but I got mine so late, I'm not sure if it was built at CGC or stern...but ugh...it feels so so good. The quality on this mmr, gives me no hesitation to buy any other game they remake or recommend them. My gosh is it gorgeous.

#2882 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does your game have the F word, or a bleep?

bleep/beep, however he gets the f and maybe part of a u out.

#2884 3 years ago

Yeah, I asked about the swear rom before it was made and never heard a real answer from Rick, so I assumed no :/ Wish they would of put a adult mode in the code like stern.

#2892 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

MMR doesn't have ROMs. And PPS/CGC can't add swear words into Williams code.
LTG : )

Why wreck my hopes and dreams! I just yell the f word any way

1 week later
#2959 3 years ago
Quoted from Mattamoose:

Why not unscrew the switch from the bracket and reverse the sides (metal parts) ? If you don't know 100% what you are doing don't go adding new holes to a new playfield. Worse case call Chicago, or your distributor (Nitro? Tommy's awesome) they will help you out.

I agree, you shouldn’t have to drill new holes for a mount for a brand new game. Check with distro and/or cgc tech support

3 weeks later
#3031 3 years ago

Just got all the Cliffys installed. The one inside the castle isn’t bad at all! It looks bad but the moving towers remove super easy (4 bolts) and you can get in there easy peasy!

If you’ve been waiting, get er done!

#3036 3 years ago
Quoted from sethi_i:

I've been debating about installing protectors. This is my first machine, and I'm wondering if they're necessary. I know the game was a big expense (I'm not using the word investment!), but how often do shooter lanes, castle moats, catapults and other places show wear in moderate use?
I'd like to hear some opinions. Are protectors necessary on HUO, or do they let you sleep better at night.

It will wear it just is a matter of time and number of plays. All up to you. It was a small investment to have protection and doesn’t alter game play.

#3053 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I went with Mantis to protect the lip in front of the small castle entrance. Then I put in a full set of Cliffys minus the catapult. Might do it later on.
Cliffys aren't too tough to install. The one inside the castle is a little challenging, but you can always post questions and concerns here if you run into issues.

I did a full cliffy set. If you did the inner castle the catapult is easy! I do need to check into the mantis though.... also Amy Merlin protector?

#3068 3 years ago

Got my game working fully. Been a long time but finally took the left troll out, which is ultra easy btw. Black set screw and boom it’s apart. Adjusted the switch which was stuck close and put together.

The dmd/speaker panel was stuck to the head by the sticky foam that must of flipped. Pulled and adjusted. Now it slides in/out without sticking.

3 weeks later
#3136 3 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Same. So I've swapped keyless locks on all of my games.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2782

SO SICK OF KEYS getting lost, looking the same. My friend swaps to these...I have a bunch on order as all my games are being swapped, no real reason to have home use games on keys....yet. Once my kid can walk and turn things...I may be in trouble.

1 week later
#3162 3 years ago

With the pinbit Merlin protector is it harder to get in the scoop? I have all cliffys and the game plays great/same as stock. Not super worried but I do like to protect the game.

#3174 3 years ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Thanks LTG. I'm still a pinball newbie when it comes to diagnosing and repairs but I appreciate the insight and will try to figure it out.
Is drawbridge test in the test settings? I'll try to check and see what I xan figure out tomorrow. My MMr had only been used 3-4 days at a small convention before I got it a few weeks back so kind of frustrated it came with this problem essentially out of the box.

Small adjustments are normal with pins, even nib. My machine did this exact same thing. Which I posted about, ran the test fiddled with the mech and it just started working. No diffinite answer to the repair but once you see where the gate starts to hang up with the glass off, you’ll get an idea on where to start

1 week later
#3194 3 years ago
Quoted from Sam40:

I am getting popouts on the catapult shot....
Sometimes it even happens when you hit the target in the back and get the gong....
Any adjustments available to not have this happen ?
The catapult shot is hard enough already....
Shelly

Isn’t there a 1way gate on it? See how the ball is getting back out. Huh. Weird, may have to take the glass off and use your fingers with the ball to monkey around with bounce outs

#3207 3 years ago
#3209 3 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Well said.....

Hahah. I posted something meant for another thread, but didn’t see a delete :-p

4 weeks later
#3358 3 years ago
Quoted from Riffbear:

I just donated some $ to pinside because this site rules. And thanks to everyone for chirping in some solutions.. MM is the best game ever made!

I haven’t been in the mmr thread much lately, but I love hearing stories like this

I love the forum too. The help and experience on here is amazing

#3363 3 years ago

I saw a sticker some where.....

Must of been out of country or something I can’t find it

1 month later
#3469 3 years ago
Quoted from Trekie:

having issues with shots not registering when hitting the gate. I have checked the photo eyes and did the roll ball test. All registers in test mode. What I found was the draw bridge doesn't come down all the way. About 3/32 off the pf. A hard shot causes the ball to go air borne enough to go over the eye. A soft shot registers.
My question: is this a linkage or cam adjustment?

is your draw bridge catching on the way down? Mine was doing this out of the box. I didn't adjust but it started going all the way down, however it sure is close as heck on the left side. I may have to adjust.

4 weeks later
#3527 3 years ago

I got 2 balls stuck in the catapult last night for the first time ever. it tried a handful of times and finally 1 made it up and dropped to the lower ramp, so the 1st ball could launch.

#3535 3 years ago

So for some reason my MMR last night was super squirrelly and was flying balls around the pf like it was GB's.....

1 month later
#3566 3 years ago
Quoted from CubeSnake:

I should add that when this happened, when both flippers were energized, they both went to the rest position in the exact same symmetry.

Do you have a handful of games?

Are they all on the same circuit?

#3568 3 years ago

15 or 20amp breaker/circuit?

I’ve had some funny issues when all my games are on.... but not that on my mmr

#3570 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Flippers warmed up and plungers dragging in the sleeves.
Could be debris or just worn.
Coils stops grabbing the plungers.
File them flat again or replace.
Clean or Replace the coil sleeves?
Either way, remove the coil stops and inspect.

That was my first thought but after letting it sit it was fine the next day.... but for sure OP should check

#3572 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Cooled down then it appears.

Ghost of old trolls past.....causing a ruckus

1 year later
#4780 1 year ago

So the "exit" of the right orbit lane guide is directing the ball to the drain. I took a couple pics and it looks like the guide has a little twist/bend. When the ball is shot to the left orbit, rips around and comes out of the right orbit, where should the ball land? Left flipper or right flipper? How should this metal lane guide be? in front of the post or behind?

0EBB2CDF-C0CC-4115-BEAB-5A60471E54D0 (resized).jpeg52F32CC1-5E75-40B1-8E89-D1E086DC6339 (resized).jpeg
#4785 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

The guide on My MMRLE sends the ball either into the right flipper (fast ball) or possibly into the right Slingshot (slower ball kicked out from the Merlin hole). Looks like your exit guide needs adjustment so the ball will not hit the rubber bumper.
Here is a picture from my MMR.
[quoted image]

Ya looks like the bottom of the guide needs to be bent/pushed out as it’s behind the rubber of the post. Thanks! I’ll check it out

#4787 1 year ago
Quoted from SkillShot:

I just got My JP and I’ve had less issues than my CGCs. Also the side art appears to be better quality. Stern’s lockdown bar is better, they include a handle to get the game in the machine easier, and some other improvements. My CGC playfield are dimpled just like all the others. I get Stern has had some pooling issues which they should be criticized for, but they seem to have solved them.
I like my CGC games, but I’m just not seeing a noticeable difference in quality.

I have dimpling on the pf of mmr but the cabinet is way better build than my GB prem

9 months later
#7421 1 year ago

I forgot to look at my game, I have a few Beagle board blacks laying around from projects but I wanted to leave one with the game for future issues. The BB is just a beagle board black, in MMR /LE correct?

#7424 1 year ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

CGC will make SEs as long as they’re making the game, it’s just one of their normal production games... it’s the Royals (and of course the original LE run) that were limited to however many they made.
I can’t speak to if they’re making them right now, but it seems like they would be, right?

afm is on the line, the 4th game I would assume and if demand is there I would suspect more standard mmr's I would hope. Demand seems to be there for it still.

2 months later
#7986 10 months ago
Quoted from Winslow3000:

I have the MMR-RE #13. Love it. Will be checking in occasionally. - Scott (Twin Cities)

OHHHHh another Minnesotan!

#7990 10 months ago
Quoted from SpyroFTW:

Hey everyone! New MMR owner here. Whenever the ball ejects from Merlin, it hits the top of the right slingshot. Sometimes this directs the ball directly down the middle. I have been playing like this for a month or so, but its getting old. I currently have the pitch set at 8 degrees, so its not to flat. Any thoughts? Sorry if this has been gone over before.
JAY

You can bend or adjust the ball guide as it exits the orbit. I also had to do that. I think my metal ball guide was behind the rubber post sleeve so it would bounce off that and go to the drain.

B2F3BC84-5208-4976-9165-041666A234C8 (resized).jpeg
#7998 10 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Shaker....no brainer...

Hahah, it adds some fun for the castle explosion for sure, I need to tame mine down some.

Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Merry Christmas fellow MMR Owners! Wifey gave me an IOU for $200 for Xmas and I’d like your advice. Shaker motor or 3D Translite? Or any other suggestions? Thanks!

You could do the gi update for $250. But requires a lot of labor to install

#8022 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Thanks. Yes, C10. Whats more concerning is i followed Cayennes advice last night and attempted to upload new software. I'm version 3.0. Nothing, sd card not recognizedby the pinball machine at all. I'm starting to wonder if its the sd card reader on the pinball machine thats faulty? Going to try more sd cards tomorrow, unreal headache CGC.

We should start documenting cards and if it worked. Like brand, size and class, plus format and from what computer. Sometimes macs format fat32 messed up, for example

#8023 9 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

We should start documenting cards and if it worked. Like brand, size and class, plus format and from what computer. Sometimes macs format fat32 messed up, for example

Speaking of, I think I updated my game without issue back when I got it, but I should go look to see what version it’s at now.

I do plan on getting the gi and display update at some point though!

#8024 9 months ago

If this is the correct update process, than either the beaglebone sucks at compatibility or the cards aren't being formatted correctly.

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update

I'll try mine in a little bit.

#8026 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

Great. Looking forward to seeing how your efforts turn out.

Oh boy, just updated my Ford explorers sync 3 via usb and that went about as well as the horror stories from this thread :/

I’ll try a couple ways and document!

#8030 9 months ago

okay, on my mac, building the img file manually via dd to the sd card and i'll give it a whirl.

#8031 9 months ago

Worked great on the first try.

Created on mac osx
Need to be partially familiar with terminal and/or diskutility. One comment for the windows people, after the image was created on the sd card, it was Fat16 formatted. I would recommend following CGC's guide (https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update)

Get your computer, sd card, sd card reader (if needed) and download the .7z file from CGC link above. You'll need to extract the 7z file and you will/should be left with an .img file. This is what we will flash to the sd card. I left my cgc files in the downloads folder, this is the location I'll use for my example.

Here is my SD card, a sandsisk ultra plus 32gb
IMG_1030 (resized).jpeg

Here is my game at current/before update values
IMG_1024 (resized).jpeg

Put the SD card into your mac
Open Terminal app
type in: diskutil list
Press enter. This will list your drives. OR go to disk utility and select the SD card/drive and see what /dev/diskX your sd card is. Ex. Mine was /dev/disk2
now that we know the /dev/diskX we need to unmount the drive so we can copy the img to it
Still in terminal
type: diskutil unmountDisk /dev/diskX
Now to send the image over
type: sudo dd bs=1m if=path_of_your_image.img of=/dev/diskX; sync
ex. sudo dd bs=1m if=~/Downloads/MedievalMadness300Installer.img of=/dev/disk2
Press enter
This copy will take, forever. You can use Control+T to see if it is still writing to the card, but yes it most likely is. When done you will see the command prompt back at the home.

Once done, to eject do it via gui or type sudo diskutil eject /dev/diskX

Turn MMR off, insert sd card w/ gold contacts facing you, into the beagle bone board sd slot. Power game on and it will star the self update.

IMG_1026 (resized).jpeg

Once done
IMG_1029 (resized).jpeg

Via cgc you can use apple pi baker 2, or even u-netbootin apps to flash the img to your sd card. For windows users, they recommend Win32 Disk Imager.

#8033 9 months ago
Quoted from V8haha:

Does MM come with different plunger links on left vs right?
I had an original and my left flipper link was larger giving the left flipper a little more range over the right.
Old game so i figured it was replaced with the wrong part.
However now i have a royal edition brand new and the left flipper link is slightly larger and allows more travel on the left flipper then right. Very minor amount.
Is this normal? I don’t understand why they would ship with 2 different plunger links

I don’t think mine has that? They look the same to me
404CFB63-825E-4A87-850A-7A962728C5A9 (resized).jpeg

Edit: damn I forgot how amazing the inside of these games are. Cab is soooo neat, new and clean, aahhhhhhh

#8034 9 months ago
Quoted from V8haha:

Thank you for the info sounds like I’ll roll the dice and skip the protector.
Another question my play field print is way off on the catapult anyone else have this issue?
The gap in artwork for the cut outs doesn’t line up. [quoted image]

I was going to check this for you, but the cliffy covers it all. Here are pics of the outlines though.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8039 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

I should probably leave well enough alone at this point. Fwiw, here is the software installed.
[quoted image]

Were you getting errors before?
what sd cards have you use?
Do you know what made it work this time?

#8045 9 months ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

I had a similar issue. I was able to update to the latest software version. But, I then used the same card to try and change the CGC logo and it wouldn’t work. It was as if it couldn’t read it. Drove me nuts for a couple of days. Then, I tried the same card over and over. I’d remove it each time and press it back down firmly. After 10ish tries in a row, it finally recognized the card and allowed me to change the logo.

I’d be curious if this is a beaglebone issue with it reading the card or a carrier board issue where it isn’t correctly booting up and pulling off the cd card

#8048 9 months ago
Quoted from Westsiderkg:

I also tried the controller board reset button. Still no luck. No recognition of the inserted SD card.
Do you think its a controller board and/or beaglebone issue that the software update is also not being recognized / uploaded?
What other HW could it be?
At this point who knows...
I am mailing 2 SD cards to CGC today for testing on their end.
Imagine at the rate USPS is delivering mail they will get the cards in 3 weeks, lol.
IDK, but at this point it seems it has to be a HW issue, right? Again, cant imagine what hardware parts need addressed / replaced since the machine appears to function properly otherwise???
Hopefully it can get fixed and this thread can help others downstream.

We did some of this som with usb boot flashing via sd on a product at work. I mean that is the only hardware there for this, the beaglebone and the carrier board. If the SD card is correctly done, then it isn't going into boot/flash mode. I'd be curious if all the beaglebones were same version/gen. I snagged a spare and threw it in the coin box incase my BB ever died/broke. And there is a new BB out, wonder if cgc is using the newer one in the new games? Wouldn't be a bad idea to see if the new BB fits the mmr.

#8057 9 months ago

BAH i should get that one too!

Does cliffy made a CF for the merlin scoop?

#8060 9 months ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

Hello guys,
I would like to remove a troll to adjust the sensitivity.
In my search I came across several solutions.
What is the easiest and safest solution to remove the troll and how?
Thanks

i swear I also had to do this. I think if you get them up, you can remove the "door" then it will come out via under the pf.

#8085 9 months ago

What have people done for flipper button wear protection? I usually put lollipop rails on my games. For my MMR I remember hearing the side rails are a pita to take off (glue/sticky tape?) and was thinking of getting the clear ones from PBL, attached.

pasted_image (resized).png
#8088 9 months ago
Quoted from Cayenne:

the best cabinet protectors around the buttons I know are the Titan ones (must have imo):
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=138
clear with no adhesive

Ohhhhh I like this.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

nothing. a decaled HUO machine just isnt going to see enough play to get worn.

3M Automotive trim molding tape, really good stuff.

For some reason I get the feeling my kids and guests will get the cab gross with dirty fingers :-p this just puts my mind at ease. Otherwise all my games have the armor have covers

#8090 9 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I get that, I rub hand sanitizer all around the buttons on machines I play out in the wild.

I used my shirt last year but man it doesn’t help all that much if it is super greasy.

There is a product....we have pinball lip balm, we need button cleaner

#8118 9 months ago

If anyone has the MMR GI kit, is it worth it? I've seen just 1 YT video and it seems pretty sweet. I liked the effects on afmr.

#8123 9 months ago

Well that is great to hear. I am ordering the GI now, I'll get the XL a bit later. But I've only played an amfr le and seen 1 YT video and it looked sweet. The game is a keeper for as long as I can , so I figured I'd put the mods on.

#8133 8 months ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

I have been installing my topper, xl display and rgb light kit today but have an issue,
Please see photos below, the display isn’t working correctly, does anyone know what could be the issue here? Also can someone please send photos or confirm the correct location of the topper plugs and where they plug into on the board, I have plugged the two lower left plugs in ( please confirm they are in the correct plugs but not exactly sure where the other two plugs go.
Cheers
Trevor
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I don’t have the kit yet but this may be of some help

Do you remember if you’ve ever updated code on your game?

#8151 8 months ago

My gi kit came today

#8156 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Be sure you update to the 3.0 with the micro SD card that comes with the kit.
LTG : )

I updated to 3.0 a week or two ago just because I saw an update. I’m ready!!!!!

#8160 8 months ago

If you read up, someone posteed about it. but start here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/151#post-5908163

EDIT: didn't read fully, US available led board. Gotchya. Let me look

#8162 8 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

You missed the point. They want to know WHERE to get the part if in the US as the OG post you linked to has a link to parts that can't be shipped to the US.

Yaa, read too quick.

#8164 8 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Happens.. On a happy side not.. It's FRIIIDAAAY! lol. Pinball night!

Just need to know on the original german ones, is it +, 1, data in, data out? There are some chinese rings that could work, but just need the wires/pinout for what is required. Adafruits are 5v, these chinese ones are 12v.

#8167 8 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Looks like its. 12v. 1 positive. The red,green and blue inputs.

These are worth a shot. They have the little nub cut out and the disc is only 20mm vs 26mm so it may fit without cutting.
http://lightsandparts.com/product/flat-round-rgb-3led-dimmable/

#8169 8 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Thanks. I will look into these

let us know!

Otherwise the cheap way is to take a 12v rgb strip and just have the 4 wire leads and stuff that in the pop housing or do a ring around the cap.

#8172 8 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Thought about the strips. I think it would look bad how they would have to lay in there.
Looks like that website is a wholesale web site. Can't but just a couple

the only good thing is you can barely see the pop caps from the player position

Quoted from MrMikeman:

The GI lights are "dumb" RGB and aren't individually addressable. No data. On the German ones it's +12v, and then R, G, B. The game GI is already wired with G,R,G,B.

ah ok. I'll keep looking. Otherwise a single led could work.. hmm ok should find a few options.

EDIT: ya so if anyone is looking, it is a 12v non addressable rgb led. Tons of 5v but the 12 is the harder one. Almost seems like someone fabing a board to fit a smd led(s) may work better :/

#8174 8 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Like the one from Germany!! lol

I wonder if Zitt would be down to make for a small run? Otherwise comet has the pop bumper "pcb" but they only do 1 color. Would need a pcb like that with changed schematics for RGB w/ 4wire

#8175 8 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I wonder if zitt would be down to make for a small run? Otherwise comet has the pop bumper "pcb" but they only do 1 color. Would need a pcb like that with changed schematics for RGB w/ 4wire

like this

pasted_image (resized).png
#8186 8 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Anyone know what kind of rgb bulb and socket was used in the kit?

In the gi kit?

Looks to be custom made. Non addressable single smd leds. If the pop bumper needed 12v I can only assume these are as well.

2BDD391C-350F-450A-B611-488C42B8BD8B (resized).jpeg4A25ED74-0663-46EB-BDC1-2371118862A5 (resized).jpeg8026A226-B2DB-4E86-86DB-E9D54F73F33D (resized).jpeg
#8188 8 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

Yea i have the kit. I was thinking if I could find a few extra bulbs I could make them fit in my pop and in my barrel spot lights. And just tie them into the closes strings.

you could do your own 12v rgb strips or leds, just make sure they are non addressable and tap them into that four wire harness.

You could even do a 4 position Z connector, then made a whip with two ends to splice it without cutting a wire.

#8192 8 months ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

in response to do any owners regret buying this game.I recently got my nib royal and having never played the game before I liked it but was not sure it was my best buy.But after playing and understanding the goals to this game I have a hard time walking away.Now I am certain it was a great purchase and i am totally enjoying this game in my collection.Its more fun every time I play

It truly is one of the best games because of the entire package. I also am pondering an afm because that also is a similar amazing game, and well not good enough to get deep into code or really care it “is a similar layout to mm”. Just a ton of fun and that’s all I like, fun games for me and others!

#8200 8 months ago
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:

Do you guys know if they are still doing the cheaper color chip for the LE owners?

I’ll be selling mine when I order the XL screen and use the old screen for vpin. Not sure how long you’d want to wait

Edit: nvm the chip is needed on XL display as well

#8203 8 months ago

Whaaaaa? Oh. Ok nvm. I saw someone sell one so I just assumed I didn’t need it. Nvm.

1 week later
#8227 8 months ago
Quoted from DarthFett72:

Awesome...thanks for the confirmation Gunstarhero.

I would contact PPS and ask if you can get the original price. May say no, but worth asking.

#8229 8 months ago

So i have a mmr le and the entire game is nice plywood. I heard someone mention that the "standard" pps titles were made using mdf? anyone know for sure?

1 week later
#8278 7 months ago

I pulled the pops apart on my GB prem and they have an independent led board inside to do rgb, however it is 5v.

Just finished installing my Color GI kit into MMR Le..
PITA - pop bumper wires are not long enough, the top glass trim had 300 staples (6-8), my kit was missing wire management (loops) and the ethernet splitter zip eyelet broke off.

Finished product looks freaking amazing. The longest parts were just harness routing and feeding through, then the stables on the top glass trim. I have a video I'll try and get up of original vs color. Totally worth the update imo. Just set aside a 3-5 hours and work through. The instructions were 90-95% excellent, with a couple differences but there were a handful of different builds so understandable. Nothing that made me stop and think it wouldn't. work.

#8285 7 months ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

These were in the bottom of my cabinet. Any idea what they might go to?
[quoted image]

those hold the coin mechs in the coin door

#8287 7 months ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

Ah yes. Thank you. One more question I had. Is it possible to get the speakers to color change with the rgb upgrade? Currently they stay blue all the time. I did not do the upgrade.
[quoted image]

Yea, there is a plug or something, someone mentioned it a page or 3 back. The instructions are in this thread. May have to search or flick back some pages. I'll post if I find them.

#8296 7 months ago

Here is a side by side of the color gi

2 weeks later
#8327 7 months ago
Quoted from Norcal:

whats happening guys I have picked up a MMR LE and upgraded to the XL Screen, wow what a difference.. Question is, Cn the older MMr Le screen be used in any other games? Is there any value to the original screen, speaker panel etc? thank you for any feedback.

I’m going to use my original in a vpin, I’d assume more vpin people have and would use it

#8335 7 months ago
Quoted from Quick:

Came across a Gold MMR LE for sale. Really would like a MM. Wife fell in love with it. I definitely enjoyed playing it and it seems like a bolt to the floor game. Thing is he wants 12 grand. Now I do have the money, and I’ll probably let one of my games go. The question I have is he asking way to much? These MM games don’t come around often.

For a gold le? No. 12k is like royal money as it has all the mods in. Le’s are usually 8500-9000

Quoted from benime:

I get that we're in covid-times, but I bought my HUO MMR LE last June with the Color ROM upgrade for $7800 delivered to my garage. The thing is mint, < 500 plays on it.
Maybe if it has all of the upgrades and is HUO, but that's still really high. If it's just a vanilla LE, 12k is insane.

Ya, you got a deal at 7800!

#8337 7 months ago
Quoted from Quick:

Yeah, I guess I already knew the answer to my question. In the market for another pin and none really knock me out. Played the new GnR and meh. MM is bad ass.

I love my MM, but also wish cgc would release the next game. I suck at pinball so the 90’s Williams are just fun all around

#8344 7 months ago
Quoted from Vernisious:I agree, I have a standard with upgraded color, XL display, royal topper, shaker motor. I'm just missing the rgb lighting to make it similar to a royal. Side art and Merlin mod. It has over 10k plays. Playfield is perfect with cliffys and plastic protectors installed. I wouldn't take less than $10k.

which side art

#8346 7 months ago
Quoted from Vernisious:

I meant blades. I couldn't find them with a search. The newer ones are probably nicer. Side blades are not the main event for me.

Just the mirror/chrome ones?

#8365 7 months ago
Quoted from underlord:

I didn’t care for them. Seemed...off a bit. Bit blurry. I bought a mirrored bg from CPR instead. Awesome.

Oh dang I didn’t realize they did mirrored!

I don’t mine Brian Allen’s trans and blades but it is just so different from the original pf art :/

Mirrored Bg would set it off as “special”

#8386 6 months ago
Quoted from DarthFett72:

Hey folks....I’ve owned my MMR LE for just a couple of months and love it. I just finished doing the XL display upgrade, the rgb kit install, and added the color chip. It’s AMAZING...the difference.
I do have a question though.....is there a market out there for selling the original DMD display/speakers? I hate to just store a perfectly good DMD display, but then again, not giving it away either.
Opinions/recommendations/thoughts???[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from gunstarhero:

I have one as well... Sounds like there may be some use for these in a VPin or as a replacement for other CGC MMR owners in need... but besides that not too much.

Yes, the vpin people can use this as the display is dvi/hdmi and being in a standard speaker panel may help some out. Otherwise the display alone could be refit to a new speaker panel as a bigger lcd.

2 weeks later
#8410 6 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I’m looking into the XL display, RGB lighting and King of Payne topper for my MMR LE. I see those for sale but I don’t see anyone selling the control board. Is that included with the XL display or one of the other upgrades ?

The GI kit has a main board the topper plugs into.

Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Can anyone please tell me where to find the Williams logo and the process of how to add it to the XL display? Thanks so much!

oh neat, didn't know this was a thing..... I finally got around to ordering the topper and XL....mmmm going to be a sexy mmr. I got some parts for the pops rgb....see how it goes.

#8412 6 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Installed the Topper, XL Display with speaker RGB working and Subwoofer and installed the RGB strip and the back of the cabinet all working perfectly. Just have to do the rgb under the playfield to complete it.
I highly recommend the pinball supernova install video for anyone attempting the install - every potential issue they brought up I had- saved me a lot of time.

I have skimmed their video a few times. Don't recall what exact issues, as I have only installed the gi kit, which i ran into some issues on. I'll check it out again, but yeah, i'll need to hook up the speaker rgb as well.

#8415 6 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Main issues were -
subwoofer screws are too short
The board mounting location per template was too low for topper wires to reach
You have to remove the knocker to install the topper
One thing not mentioned - the topper sits too far forward. Hangs over front edge almost half an inch I moved the template back just a little before I drilled the holes

which version of MMR do you have? I guess there are different board sets used in the game as well? Like the original LE run vs the standards etc.

#8422 6 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I have an original run LE. The kit includes different mounting templates based on which board you have. The template for the original run games sets the RGB board an inch and a half to low for the topper cables to plug in. I just completed the RGB lighting upgrade and there is more than enough slack on those cables to move the board higher to accommodate the topper.
For the RGB upgrade I highly recommend reading a few pages back on this thread there is a post about using a molex connector instead of wire nuts which works perfectly and gives a factory appearance.

For the pop bumper lights? Iirc that was the only spot for wire nuts....

Oh man well I forgot where I mounted my board relative to the template.... parts come next week, I guess we shall see!

#8429 6 months ago

Mmmmm Royal with le

F252638A-4320-482D-8F45-20B3D4D4F269 (resized).jpeg
#8435 6 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

What are the correct color bulbs for the 2 spotlights near the castle ?

Pretty sure “yellow” but I’ll go look

Edit: look yellow ish/orange.

image (resized).jpg
#8440 6 months ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

here again
[quoted image]

Can we make this a key post? Took me a day and a half to find it again... but now I have rgb speakers!

#8443 6 months ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

have fun with it
tom

Thanks for posting that! When I heard about all these mods, I really was "warm" on them, they seemed expensive and well MM is all gameplay right? Well these mods are like heated seats in a car. If you never have them, you never know what you're missing out on, but once you have/play/use them, you NEED them. They seem to work great together and immerse you into the game/color. I'm not into "clown" puke but they do so well at changing color at pauses or when you don't need to flip, then going back to normal during gameplay/flipper use. MM will be the last game I ever get rid of and I'm glad I did these.

Just need to put the rattle tape on the glass, enable the shaker again (maybe low this time) and do the rgb pops w/ clear caps. Oh and get the williams logo on the display

#8451 6 months ago
Quoted from ktm450:

I ordered these RGBs:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-LEDRGB&Category_Code=GS-9991
And these clear caps:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9007-13
And some of these red connectors:
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/idc-connectors/5354879/
You need to drill out the holes the wires go through very slightly. Don’t go overboard as the lugs are for alignment of the pop bumper body.
You need a longer screw and have to make a small spacer for each.
I then connected 2 pops to string ‘right 3’ and one to string ‘right 2’, giving a total of 6 lights per string.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice, this is my plan, I have the rgbs and the clear covers but haven’t started the mod yet.

#8455 5 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Painted the speaker trim gold to match the armor.
[quoted image]

what logo do you have in your dmd?

the color speaker trim looks great!

#8459 5 months ago
Quoted from J_Striker:

On the speaker panel kit for the royal upgrades.... is the speaker lights only blue or are the supposed to be RGB?

Yup, they are blue unless you do the "mod"

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/151#post-5909393

Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I have a Williams logo that I found in the monster bash remake thread

Mmm, ya me too. Kinda lovin it. I need to do my rgb pops, but my mantis castle lock and merlin protectors came in....ohhhh man what a gem of a game.

#8461 5 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

I need to do the RGB pops too. I went with a carbon fiber cliffy for the Merlin and have a mantis on the way for the castle.

I'll probably do the cf cliffy as well on merlin..... mantis's are usually inside and cliffs are outside so you can sometimes (depends on location) double up. The castle one is really needed as that bare wood takes a beating. I did the full cliffy kit on the MMR except merlin as he didn't have that one yet. the under castle ones aren't as bad as you'd think.....

#8463 5 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

thinking of selling my MMRE - what's the going rate for one of these bad boys these days??

Royal? Mmm idk about $14k? But prices seem to be in flux with some random game sales that were higher than usual. I think earlier this year they were about 11-12k

#8465 5 months ago
Quoted from zpinman370:

ok - 14K is not bad actually - maybe I should be like all these other jokers asking big $$ and go 20K to start hehe

Idk, they retailed at 10k…

1 month later
#8520 4 months ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I have a mm se edition. How difficult is it to put a CGC topper on it. Thanks

I did it on my LE, not too bad, but I for went their template for the topper and made sure the topper fit on the top the way I wanted it. If you go a page or so bad, someone mentioned the template pushed their topper over the lip and so it sat funny. Also use painters tape where you have to drill to help flaking off the wood/paint.

2 weeks later
#8559 3 months ago
Quoted from glpinball:

So after upgrading the display to the XL version I am getting horizontal lines randomly flashing across the display. At least I haven't noticed a pattern yet. I opened a ticket with Chicago gaming but has anyone dealt with this problem before?

Do you have a color chip?
Did you update your MMr to the newest code?

Have you checked the cables are seated firmly? (top of the beagle bone is a micro hdmi that then runs to the display and is converted to dvi. make sure all those are tight and the dvi adapter is screwed down.

#8560 3 months ago

Is there a thread or talk anywhere of putting the XL display on a "classic" remake (any of them)?

I opened mine up today and similar to the Arcade 1up arcades, it is a basic video conversion box that takes inputs to the lcd panel plug. I have never seen the baords/plugs used on a classic version of the game, but since they use lcd's this upgrade to a XL should be pretty simple.....

2 weeks later
#8577 3 months ago
Quoted from Oaken:

A little foam did me wonders.
Fast shots still usually bounce out, but normal and slower shots almost always are successful.

yup came to suggest adding a little foam to that metal angle piece. Easier than adjusting/bending the metal

#8580 3 months ago

beer seal, target foam, window/door insulation, kind of all the same just different size/squish/stick

#8608 3 months ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Whats everyone doing to prevent wear around the flipper buttons?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/162#post-6068655
That is what I was thinking of

1 week later
#8643 86 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

No need to update firmware unless you plan on adding one of the Royal upgrades.

There was one update before the Royal, I remember doing, but don’t recall what was included.

However the color chip should just be a plug n play swap with the stock, under the playfield

#8648 86 days ago

Here are the updates...There were a few small ones prior. Honestly it is just worth going to 3.0.0 so it is. all up to date with OS etc updates and if you do any mods.

V3.0.0 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Added support for King of Payne Topper.
2) Added support for XL Display.
3) Added support for RGB LI LEDs.
4) Fixed bug preventing custom logo installation.

V2.0.1 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Next generation graphics engine to support full color display upgrade and address previous screen tearing issue.
2) Addition of Castle Multiball jackpot voice call.
3) Modifications to real time clock.
4) Addition of adjustment for controlled playfield LEDs.
5) Addition of adjustment for trough coil strength.
6) Resolution of audio crackling issue.
V2.0.2 RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Fixed bug in OS causing date and time to reset.

V2.0.2a RELEASE NOTES
This version includes the following enhancements and bug fixes:

1) Updated installer to be compatible with new generation Beagle Boards.

2 weeks later
#8683 72 days ago
Quoted from rrath03:

My MMR castle gate has been slowly degrading in performance. Meaning the gate open hit wont work, and the only way to fix it is to let the ball search cycle. It’s happened more and more frequently and now the ball search cycle will not reset it. I suspect I need to replace the whole actuator but I’m not sure. I am also finding this part a bit hard to find. Any thoughts? Maybe I don’t need the whole assembly and just the actuator part? Thx for any advice!
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-21718

I would go into test and see/verify the switches for the gate. Open, close, being hit by a ball. I would first suspect it just isn’t adjusted right, first. Then move on to part replacement.

2 weeks later
#8725 54 days ago
Quoted from Pizzaman13:

Just joined the club with an MMr LE 684/1000 with a 2016 build date. According to the previous owner, the code has never been updated. If I were to update the code do I use the same software updates as the newest remakes?

What only_pinball said. Follow directions on their site, it may be finicky but most people get it working.

#8757 50 days ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

With the recent announcement of Kits being offered again soon (Topper, RGB, etc) - has anyone heard when these would be released? Are there any distributors that have a "notify me when available" option type thing to get an email?
Thanks

They are doing the kits again?!

#8762 50 days ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Yes they said soon in the seminar

Awesome. I got mine as I saw the fomo coming. But damn I love the idea of doing kits for the games so you can get a classic and slowly upgrade.

1 week later
#8772 41 days ago
Quoted from pinmatic:

I have a CGC MMR LE and I'm looking to upgrade some things on it. The only upgrades I have done is add all cliffy protectors. What do you guys recommend for upgrades?

If money ain’t no thang, all the cgc upgrades; xl display, rgb gi kit, topper, if you’re diy add rgb pop bumpers.

#8777 41 days ago
Quoted from gorditas:

I was confusing SE and LE.

MMR was weird as it was the first vs afm that standardized the models etc.

2 weeks later
#8795 21 days ago
Quoted from Phazed:

I moved my machines 800 miles. Despite my efforts to be very careful, I've had a few issues. My 1997 MM will not recognize the ball dropping through the Damsel, so Damsel Madness can never be activated. The switch test does not see the ball so it's just that the ball is not being recognized. I've got no local support here so I could really use suggestions on how to proceed.

Just a heads up, this is the remake thread, here is the thread for the original mm
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in

However, the switch itself probably just needs a visual inspection to make sure the wires are soldered to the legs still and it potentially could use an adjustment. I know Lloyd may of just spoke to someone about that same switch in this thread a page or few back.

Are you comfortable pulling the glass out and lifting the pf up all the way to the backbox so you can see the back of the playfield from the bottom side?

#8800 21 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

The damsel tower switch is mounted in the metal assembly inside the actual tower, only the cables are going out below the playfield. This is speaking about the original btw.
To get access to the switch you have to remove the right part of the castle wall (and probably the right ramp) then a few screws to remove the metal assembly with the switch on it.

Quoted from LTG:

Or the tower has shifted and the ball isn't getting to the switch at the bottom.
LTG : )

I didn’t look and thought the ball dropped way lower, I played a game and realized it was not that far down. I don’t remember if the mm of slides out or just rotates but ya, find a way in there

#8801 21 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Does anyone know where I can buy a topper?Preferably at msrp price? Thanks

Quoted from Pinkitten:

Check KingPinGames. They had some for $599.99. I’m not sure if they still do. If they are sold out, there is one other person who had a couple for the same $600 price. I bought one last month. If KingPin is sold out I’ll message you his contact info. He may be sold out too, I’m not sure.

Cgc did say they would make and sell more mmr kits. So we potentially will have toppers again.

#8804 20 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Has there been any talk about another MMR production run?
Is CGC producing any pins currently?

the announced but unknown CCr currently. rumor is some word coming tomorrow/friday or monday but I heard that last week. LE should be shipping in 2-3 months.......let the wait continue.

1 week later
#8816 10 days ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

Having an issue with our early build MMR standard. Both the catapult and moat solenoids decided to stop firing today. I don't see anything obvious when lifting the playfield - any thoughts/assistance appreciated.

You can visually inspect the coil via lifting the playfield. But also I would go into test/diagnostics and check the switches associated with those coils firing.

#8824 5 days ago

Hey guys,

Anyone that upgraded to the XL screen want to sell their smaller panel setup?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-mmr-dmd-display-classic-not-xl

Added 3 days ago:

EDIT: Sorry, this isn't my ad, was just trying to help someone out!

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