I ordered a standard today, anybody know which shaker works in it? I'm guessing its the new spike compatible one? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3710
Quoted from nosro:
Some games really ought to be grouped together to avoid this. For example, there's no reason why Addams Family / Addams Family Gold or Iron Man / Iron Man Vault should be ranked separately . Maybe the community should vote in these cases to judge if two machines are different enough to warrant separate rankings.
I agree. I have an MMR standard. The only difference between my game and the LE is the plaque, as I'm buying the shaker and installing it. But it will be listed as a separate game, with separate ratings because of a small piece of metal glued to the middle of the apron?
Quoted from KozMckPinball:
And black painted cabinet interior on the LE. Don't forget that.
Many LE owners bought stainless. No difference other than the sticker on the apron.
Seriously, they have stern LE and Premium games as one, and they have completely different looking cabs and backglasses. MMRLE has an extra decal on the apron - new game!!!
Quoted from SuperPinball:
You are forgetting the real reason why the LE should be in its own class and have its own ratings..........plywood on the bottom! The standard editions or non-plys as they are referred to in the business simply dont have that plywood smell or taste and therefore changes the game to a completely different game. When you do BFTK, the King of Payne says " I will show you why I prefer plywood!". Yup, I could only imagine the suffering that the non-plys go through knowing that the bottom of their pinball cabinets are....well...not plywood.
My standard (#1018) has plywood on the bottom, and is painted inside. Only difference from an LE is no decal on the apron. Therefore it's a different game by pinsides rules
Quoted from Strummy:
Is anybody making a Williams decal for that blank space on the speaker panel?
They are out there, I bought one from a guy whos friend runs a print shop. But its against pinside TOS to list them, as its copyright infringement. Instead you are encouraged to buy a complete panel from PPS, and go through the pain of stripping your old panel (and its a royal pain).
Please don't contact me asking where I got it, they don't have any more of them.
Quoted from Damien:
Yes, I usually do a live catch from the left. For some reason, the way it ejects from the right, I find it really hard to do.
But what I was asking is, when the ball drops from the right, if you just put there flipper up, will it bounce a bit, but stay on that right flipper?
Just tried it on my game.
I'm thinking it's normal. Maybe on the "pinball arcade" video game it doesn't bounce off.
Quoted from Damien:
Hey man, th
Cheers! Thanks for posting the vid!
Yeah, that seems normal. I couldn't figure out how that person had the ball drop, bounce a bit, and stay on the right flipper. Would make the game way too easy.
For me, I let the ball eject from the right, hit the right flipper, bounce over the left, and then back to the right where I trap it. Then I release the ball at about the middle of the flipper and get a clean castle shot.
Curious to know what you guys use as a strategy. Lately I've been doing what I mentioned to get castle shots. Obviously it's easy when the drawbridge is up. When I get to the gate, I have to nudge like crazy to get control of the ball on each shot, but if I'm having a good game, I can get it under control pretty quickly, and keep working on the castle.
When I get to the second or third castle, I then move on to working on the the Madnesses. Pick up the extra ball along the way, and then maybe even a Castle Multiball. Not so good at getting the extra ball on the Castle Madness, but I have done it once or twice.
So far, I've been able to get to the Royal Madness, and knock out 5 castles, but then things fall apart.
What is your strategy?
I've had my best scores if I work on the madnesses first (light them all, then hit merlin) and only go for the castle shots when I have a multiball going, as those shots have a higher chance of going STDM when the drawbridge is down.
For those with a standard, can you please add your rating of the game to pinside so we can get it listed with MM and MMRLE on the top 100 page.
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