(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Globalcop
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2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (4 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (1 year ago)


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#278 4 years ago

If interested, new merlin mod. Listed in the market. Fits perfectly in front of Castle and just behind merlin sign.

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2 months later
#431 3 years ago

Two options to light up Merlin.

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Merlin_Crystal_1_(resized).JPG

7 months later
#924 3 years ago
Quoted from Quadrat:

Yes, I have one

Thanks, im supposed to be picking one up this week, stainless, color chip, lighted pinball decals apron. I actually like the stainless as i like the old style look.

1 week later
#959 3 years ago

Joined by the club today...its an LE. Playfield protector, color chip, titan rubber everywhere, lighted star posts. Its a distributor game and I'm told it has some special animations that arent in the stock LE game. Already added a purple backboard light to it. Game is like new!

Had an issue where ball was getting stuck in the damsel drop. Added a nut under the castle top to raise it and that fixed it. Had to take ramp and wireform out...no big deal, 30 minute job. Illl get more pics up.

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#965 3 years ago

Some pinball porn...

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#969 3 years ago

Rough crowd...i really like it, maybe its the camera exaggerating the effect.

#980 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I think someone was having some fun with you.
LTG : )

Yeah, who knows, but it was a good price so I didnt bother to inquire on it....certainly didn't pay more based on that. It was manufactured in July 2016, I hadn't realized LEs were still being made.

#981 3 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Haven't heard that one before...

Quoted from Pimp77:

Yeah, I'd be surprised if true.

It's true, sort of. It's not the animations that are different, but the colorization in some scenes that only distributors receive in their games. I think what I have is a demo game, but it's barely been touched and is only about 3 months old. I have no way to compare it to a stock game to say if the colorization is better or worse.

#988 3 years ago

I didn't Install one, but my game came with one. I like it but don't have a good point of comparison. My game plays very fast.

#989 3 years ago

Catapult mod if anyone is looking for one...

Archived after 40 days
98 views
Not sold: Decided to keep game
Mod - For Sale
New “Lighted Catapult mod, fits perfectly right in front of the catapult kicker. Connects to GI on MMr and can connect to GI or an insert with original games. Mod really looks great in ...”
2016-11-09
Upper Freehold, NJ
50

1 month later
#997 3 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Who sells that apron?

Pinball decals is where I think it came from. I think they want like $500 for it. Glad my game came with it.

#1001 3 years ago

Added a second dragon...I need to illuminate the stock dragon's wings now.

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#1004 3 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Yeah it doesn't fit with the playfield story but I imagine it looks more badass than putting a peasant figure on the left side. If the owner likes it than that's what counts!

Yep, just looks cool to me, maybe to others, maybe not...to each his own.

...or, I suppose I could replace my stock dragon with this lit one, which definitely looks better to me.

#1006 3 years ago

Lit up the dragons wings on the right ramp...

medievil-madness-pinball-illuminated-dragon-wings-mod-1 (resized).JPG

medievil-madness-pinball-illuminated-dragon-wings-mod (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#1018 3 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I put in Kicker 43DSC504 DS in the backbox and installed a Polk Audio PSW10 10" sub external sub. Sounds crisper and with deeper base especially when you hit the castle. Very easy installation too. I decided to replace the speakers on all my Bally/Williams as well.

Are these a direct replacement or did you have to modify your mount and/or wiring?

#1069 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time
For #2 here's what happening: the ball drops down, the divertor open (retracts down below the playfield, and ball doesn't eject until you sit there long enough for the game to do it's "I don't know where the ball is" dance and it then ejects no problem. This makes me believe it's not the divertor post

I had this exact issue.inside the damsel castle, there is a lip the ball gets stuck on. Unfortunately, you need to remove the right ramp, remove the screw on the top of the castle, slide a #8 nut underneath the screw so as to raise the castle a bit. This allows the ball to drop down more rather than get stuck on the lip. If I were designing the game, that lip would be gone. When you remove the ramp, put your finger in there and you'll feel it.

#1077 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

For #1, unfortunately I've tried everything that I can think of and can't get the stupid switch to register reliably. I switch the switch's position on the switch housing to to the closer setting, I experimented with bending the wire to make it more sensitive (to expose more above the playfield), and I confirmed that the switch housing is securely screwed in and tight. Basically, when the ball flys by the switch more quickly it just won't register. I submitted a support ticket to hopefully get a new switch.
For #2 I spoke with Rob (lermods) and can confirm that it's the same issue he experienced. The ball is just barely getting hung up and if the castle was lifted just a bit (per his suggestion) then it would fix it. I think I can execute the fix if I could only remove the clear plastic piece that sits above the damsel tower. The problem is that it seems really difficult to do without removing tbe ramp: the plastic is held on by 3 flathead screws that are secured to a nut at the bottom and those are really tough to reach. I was really hoping to not have to remove the right ramp.

Taking the right ramp off isn't that bad. One nut by the inlane, four screws at ramp entrance, one nut under the dragons left wing and one nut on a long post back left. That's it. Undo all that, slide ramp to the left and you have access to the damsel castle screw. Not more than 30 minutes tops.

4 weeks later
#1158 2 years ago

My outlanes are factory, no particular issues with outlane drains, seems normal. I go after the castle when i mb and the ball save running.

#1161 2 years ago

6.5 degrees, I did not have to adjust it from the factory. Download an app and use your phone to level it, from the playfield, not the glass.

2 weeks later
#1241 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Have a question for all you owners. When the ball ejects from the left side of the castle (say after entering the moat) and it comes down the left side, does your ball go directly down to the left flipper, or does it occasionally hit the left slingshot?
When I first set up the game, I'm positive it was coming straight down. But now that I've adjusted the slant to 6.5 degrees, it seems to be inconsistent.
Just curious... Thanks

Mine always comes down to left flipper.

#1291 2 years ago

I think my LE was one of the last off the line and it has a date of July 2016 and is 967/1000.

1 month later
#1723 2 years ago

It is possible. You won't blow anything unless you don't install it correctly. If you don't install it correctly, at a minimum, you will blow a fuse, but potentially the transistor or worse.

Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Not sure what your comment is telling me. It should be possible to put in a short LED strip tied to the flasher without blowing something like the transistor mentioned?

#1725 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Meaning in this case either the LED strip was too long or leads reversed?

i doubt it was too long, likely reversed or touching something it shouldn't have.

#1727 2 years ago

Thanks Rock, yes we do have a lot of mods for MM amd MMR. we tend to use alligator clips for many of our mods for simplicity, and never had any issues with this, very reliable, they don't fall off, etc. It's a good thing to want to learn about your game and try to make your own modifications, and pinside can be very helpful in this regard, but at some point you also have to realize what your own limitations are and that it may be better to purchase a mod that has been tested rather than risk blowing up your game. Spending $100 on a cool mod is better than having to replace your board and the countless hours and frustration trying to diagnose it. I am not trying to discourage anyone from digging into their games, in fact, I would encourage everyone to understand how their games work, but be sensible about it.

http://lermods.com/t/medievil-madness-pinball-mods

#1780 2 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

Hi!
Merlin hole to powerful
Sometimes the ball hits the right ramp and jumps back in the hole
looks like the kickoff has to much power and may be not good for the plastic ramp
any ideas how to adjust this case?

Maybe the coil bracket needs to be adjusted to eject at a lower angle. Check that its secure, and consider adding a washer or two under the bracket to change the kickout angle.

1 week later
#1801 2 years ago

I think purple looks the best!

medieval-madness-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light-kit (resized).jpg

#1810 2 years ago

those "lightning" effects tied to pops work well on other games like IM and MET. I haven't tried it on my MMR yet.
My current backboard version is hooked to GI because it is too dark back there and it brightens up the game and allows you to see the detail. Purple backboard with blue flasher I'd imagine would look the best.

Quoted from chrisnack:

I agree I did purple as well but mine are run by a relay and so they turn off to let the other effects work, lighting call outs etc.

Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I hafta disagree. Lots of purple plastics sides and back and pops covers are purple but the color to have here is blue. And hooked to a flasher. Looks like lightning when flashed, the blue backboard and white bolts help this affect. Fantastic when the Trolls come up, the lightning display behind the castle and the 3rd lock ball sets off a lightning show to the audible thunder.

#1840 2 years ago

Never seen the video mode either, two things I learned in one day...my brain is fried.

2 months later
#2118 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

HELP Please - can someone provide me the instructions on how to adjust my flipper bats on my MMRLE? I'm a newbie so would love a little advice before I break out my tools.....my flipper bat angles are too low
Thanks

You just need to loosen the nut the shaft goes through, loosen just enough so you can adjust the bat by hand, then retighten.

2 months later
#2394 2 years ago

Check your interlock switch. Coin door may not be pushing it closed enough to provide power. Just had this issue on my afmr.

You can push in the switch and then go into test mode and see if they will fire.

Edit: looks like ltg responded a few seconds apart. Great minds think alike

#2431 2 years ago

I have had a protector on my game from day 1, came with game, the one from Germany. No issues at all and knowing that when/if I ever decide to pull it I’ll basically have a brand new play field is pretty nice.

#2434 2 years ago
Quoted from BigMorty:

Thanks LTG for the link. lermods, I’d th protector you have different than the one on the link LTG put above?
I have Cliffys coming also, did not know I needed both them and Mantis!
Can I play a few dozen games before installing all this, not sure I can wait

I don't know specifically where it came from only that it is the version from the German company. Don't know their name offhand. Seems pretty nice to me.

#2444 2 years ago

Mine with mirror blades...

medieval-madness-pinball-machine-playfield (resized).JPG

#2446 2 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Thanks lermods and gliebig!! What blades did you use?

Coin taker...always.

1 week later
#2507 2 years ago
Quoted from mamefan:

I just got a Chicago Gaming brand new MMR. Will upgraded speakers make a big difference?

I'd like to know if it's possible to get the same sound out of my MMR as I get from my afmr.?

Are different sound boards used or am i stuck with crap in crap out on MMR?

#2512 2 years ago

The question I have is not so much the speakers, it’s the quality of sound the game puts out. Are the electronics just better on AFMr? I don’t need an upgraded cabinet sub, I have an external Polk sub to give me all the bass I need. I want better sound from the back box speakers. Again, if you have crap going into the speakers, you get crap coming out. I always thought MMr sound was good, but as soon as I got my AFMr, I realized how bad it actually is relatively speaking.

#2527 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Don't you just unplug/unsolder the old speakers and plug/solder in the new ones?
I just ordered some Pyle speakers (similar to the AFMR ones) on Scamazon and am planning to swap them upon arrival.

I just ordered the kickers for my game, $39 off eBay. Looking for a recommendation on a woofer for the cabinet, low profile so it doesn’t interfere with the trolls. I prefer not to modify the cabinet.

I’ve been told the sounds coming out of the game is designed exactly as it is in AFMr so I think replacing hardware will have a big impact.

#2583 2 years ago
Quoted from mamefan:

I just installed pinballpro speakers (with standard sub) in my MMR but don't notice a difference. I bought them so the voices would be more clear, but I don't think they are. I used the crimping clips that came with it instead of solder. Would that matter? The original speakers were soldered to the wires.

No, as long as you have sound coming out of them, the connections are good.

#2597 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Strange my MMr flippers feel totally normal, as a matter of fact they are perfect.. I can make the ramp shots no problem, stick the merlin hole and get no air balls.

Mine are perfect too, no air balls, Merlin sticks.

#2622 2 years ago

I upgraded my speakers so figured I'd add some lights. Not interactive, rgb fade effects. Ran them off the 12v source in the front of the cabinet.

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3 weeks later
#2698 2 years ago

Royal madness is the only time my glass rattles.

4 months later
#3245 1 year ago

I prefer purple with green in the spotlights. My phone camera washes it out quite a bit.

https://lermods.com/products/medieval-madness-mmr-pinball-led-strip-15-backboard-light-kit

medieval-madness-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light-kit (resized).jpg

#3250 1 year ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Thanks! Purple does look nice. Your site mentions this color is best for darker applications. I assume this means arcades where the lights would be dim, basement where you play with lights low or off, etc. My pins would be in a lit area - any issue there?

It's purple/UV and I think works better in a darker application so we put that there. If you have a brighter room, blue looks very good too and is a strong color that lights the backboard well.

Quoted from Damien:

Is this light on all the time or does it flash with other lights?

Tied to gi. 15" strip.

4 months later
#3553 1 year ago
Quoted from Goalie:

Ok so I'm tyring to figure out what the best way will be to deal with how dark the game is and how much reflection I get from the backglass etc. What is the better solution? Switch GI over to brigter natural white LEDs and invisiglass/HD glass or add Pinstadium?

A backboard strip will also help with glare with nice effect.

https://lermods.com/products/medieval-madness-mmr-pinball-led-strip-15-backboard-light-kit

1 month later
#3639 1 year ago

I put green spots in my game. Your leaf switches likely need adjustment or trolls aren't on good/binding.

1 month later
#3709 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey guys im having a problem with the pop bumper closest to the princess castle. Whenever it seems there is a strong vibration there is a chance the bumper will randomly fire. I currently have the shaker set to strong but im going to try setting it to lower and also try without it on. If not the shaker what do you think the issue might be?

Check the gap on your spoon switch. Likely needs to be opened slightly.

1 month later
#3791 1 year ago
Quoted from marksf123:

When turn my game on, it fires up, lets me press the start button to start a new game but that is it, it does not kick a ball into the shooter lane and the flippers dont work. It does not show any errors when i go into the menu. Any thoughts?

Sounds like maybe game has lost track of the balls? Do you the right number in the trough? If you do, check shooter lane and trough switches in test mode.

#3793 1 year ago
Quoted from marksf123:

I checked that it did have the right number of balls in the trough. I will check it out more tomorrow. None of the coils are firing. Is there a fuse for the coils somewhere? When it goes into ball search mode only the castle door raises and lowers and I think I also hear the shaker motor.

Check your interlock switch is working. When you open the coin door does it kill power? When you close it does it restore it?

2 months later
#3914 9 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

If anyone is interested in the "Coat of Arms" speaker grill inserts and williams logo please post your name in the link below. We are trying to get 10 people to commit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/medieval-madness-coat-of-arms-speskergrill

We also have rgb speaker lighting for mmr that I think would complement these...

https://lermods.com/products/medieval-madness-remake-pinball-led-strip-rgb-speaker-light-kit

1 month later
#3951 8 months ago

Anyone have a feature matrix comparing the le to the standard? Or anyone know the main differences?

#3953 8 months ago
Quoted from evh347:

Can anyone confirm if the underside components on the newly produced MMr is identical to the machines produced originally when Stern was making them?
I’m on the wait list for the upcoming run (June/July) and I’m wondering if the GI is the same as the original MMr, like the AFMr, or like the components on MBr. There have been subtle changes in how the GI was wired from machine to machine from what I can tell (owning AFMr and MBr).
I have some Lermods in my possession and I’m getting the feeling I bought the wrong version of the backboard and trough lighting mods. I’d like to see a closeup of the MMr GI socket and I’m wondering if CGC has made any updates to the circuitry under the playfield.
Also, can anyone post a pic of how they connected their Lermod backboard and trough lighting mod on their MMr?
Thanks.

Depends on which version you bought, can't tell by your pinside name. If you bought alligator clip version, you attach to the socket lugs, this is different than mbr and afmr, which don't have sockets and only have light boards or lights that are hard wired.

If you bought a bulb connection, you can replace the bulb in the socket with the one we supply. I don't think cgc changed anything over time, but I guess it's possible. My mmr Le has gi sockets, not light boards.

If when you get your game, what you have doesn't work, you can always exchange it.

4 weeks later
#3980 7 months ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Question for the group here. The top switch on the left ramp (peasant ramp) of my MMR has stopped registering when the ball passes through (the left lower ramp switch does register when the ball enters the ramp, however). I can't get it to work manually either.
I checked the connections and the J5 connector into the board beneath the PF and it doesn't appear anything is disconnected. The J5 connector is where the upper left ramp switches connects, right?
Any insight or advice on where the problem may be? The ball was hitting the switch sometimes when it went through the ramp as it was too low before I adjusted it. Wondering if it could be related to that.
Any insight is very appreciated (picture of switch I'm referencing attached).
[quoted image]

Do you have a meter to test for voltage at the switch?

4 months later
#4133 3 months ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

Next stupid MMr question. When buying NIB what build date should I be looking for ,2017 and after?

I didn’t think there were any bad production runs. I have an earlier one, it’s been perfect.

2 weeks later
#4542 84 days ago
Quoted from GreenMachine19:

PPS just sent me an email to buy all the upgrades for 1499.97. I will not be doing this after all and replied to cancel my name off the list. Just can’t justify it aka convince my wife to splurge the cost of another game for these upgrades. Still taking heat over the color upgrade lol.

I did the same thing. They are nice upgrades, but man they are pricey. I thought I’d get credit for having the color upgrade already, but seems the prices quoted are with the color upgrade already in the game. I can’t justify it even though i love what they did in mbR and AFMr. I’d be at almost $10k on my mmr compared to about 7 for my AFMr and mbR se.

1 month later
#4752 37 days ago

I play my mbR more than than my mmr. I find mmr to be easier and have much longer game times. If I had to choose, I’d probably keep mbr, but I don’t so I’m keeping both.

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