Quoted from evh347:

Latest info I got is that the ‘parts’ that are holding up the delivery of the newer MMr editions are related to the reworking of the gate/drawbridge mechanism. I did not get specifics as to why. They are still ‘two weeks out’ from shipping. Same timeline predicted...SE’s and the CE’s...then the Royal editions ship.
Until I hear of anybody getting final invoiced, I’m not believing anything CGC says anymore about expected shipping.
I mean come on already...how about releasing some official communication rather than leaving your distributors to field concerns from buyers with deposits in for over a year? If you’re going to keep moving the goal posts month after month, at least be upfront with your customers please. Yeah, I got it...Pinball is hard.

Quoted from ReplicaX:

To set ppl's minds at ease with proof.
Just accepted my MMr CE 2019 (Standard).
Born date Jan 22, 2020.[quoted image]

Quoted from Lermods:

Yep, we are ready to sell them now as they’ve been test fitted and work as they do on MBR. Thanks to F3honda for testing, we didn’t blow up his game. Available on our website and will be in our pinside shop tomorrow.

Saw your order come in, a little backed up so give me a couple days to get it out. And thank you!
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fmedieval-madness-remake-se-re-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fmedieval-madness-remake-se-re-pinball-led-strip-interactive-rgb-trough-light-kit-se-slash-le

Quoted from Lermods:

Thanks, I saw it come across. I am hoping to get all the orders out by Saturday. Sorry for the delay, but we’ve had a hard time catching up. I want it in Saturday’s mail because Monday is a holiday. You will all receive tracking info when it ships.

Quoted from Giebzilla:

I’m pretty sure we don’t have a distributor here in Arizona. My only NIB purchase was a MBr and I had to use an out of state distributor. If you know of someone new Or I’m wrong please drop the name.

Quoted from Cyrus:

Wanted to give a shout out to brian-allen for his new MM translite. My photos SUCKS (colors got washed out) but it looks beautiful when installed.[quoted image]

Quoted from YZRider926:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Meri-cah:

Anyone thought about making a custom logo for the Royals? Maybe able to add the quasi number to it just to feel like they’re numbered

Quoted from TimBoch:

I had a few issues trying to get a custom logo loaded. Saw the same messages at different times. Not sure why it worked sometime and not at others. The only strange thing I’ve not been able to fix is that my date and time don’t update when the machine is off. I took the battery out and saw a lot of sticky residue on it and in the battery slot. Replaced the battery and the new one got sticky residue. Cleaned the slot with isopropyl and still no luck. Arturo asked that I reinstall 3.0 beta. I bought a new SD card yesterday. My only concern is I’ll lose my scores and achievements. Ironically, those stay even though the date and time don’t. Must use different memory?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Gumby510:

Been playing all night along no issues to far. Couple stuck balls nothing to major come with the territory. The sound on this is amazing it was set to 7 and at that setting it blew my wonkas sound away. Mine is serial #4100. One small gripe is they put a little tiny shock warning sticker on the top of the back glass in the middle. I need to take that off haha.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jcoble:

I had one wander the country for two months a couple of years back. They finally had to ship me a replacement because it didn't look like the original was ever going to turn up. You would think a box that big couldn't get lost, but it can. Good luck, I hope yours arrives soon!!

Quoted from TonyVrd:

How do you guys feel about putting mods on a MMr RE, is this blasphemous? I get mine next week and I was debating on whether I should mod it or simply throw some PDI glass on it and call it good. I know if I were to sell it in the future, which I hardly doubt, it really doesn't help with resell, if anything, it may deter some potential buyers.

Quoted from LTG:

Great. Your game got a vacation and you didn't.
Enjoy it, it is an amazing game !
LTG : )

Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Nice. Still have no clue if mine has shipped. Cointaker keeps saying it is but no indication.

Quoted from srmonte:

I just put adhesive felt on the inside of the legs to protect the cabinet. I would not put the plastic ones on ever again. Those are really nice to cover up damage. But for a new decaled game I will never use them again.

Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Yikes. Did you accept?

Quoted from TimBoch:

\
Yikes. Sad to see what weeks worth of unneeded travel has done. Sure hope everything is safe inside.

Quoted from wamoc:

I don't see anything wrong there. It looks like you did get interesting placement of the wood grain there by chance.

Quoted from 3pinballs:

Okay,, that Franky underneath with the lighting must scare the heck out of some kids.....Loooks Awwwwesssommme !!!!!!

Quoted from mbeardsley:

Does the same card work on the others (not just the file)?

Quoted from Cayenne:

this was often posted here, that sd card cannot be mounted; seems a SW bug.
You have Beta 3 too?

Quoted from Cayenne:

this was often posted here, that sd card cannot be mounted; seems a SW bug.
You have Beta 3 too?

Quoted from jarozi:

What was funny was that I could update the software no problem, so it can read the cards for that purpose. Just not to load the custom image.

Quoted from Inferno:

Hello folks, does anyone have an approximation of time between forking over the 10K to your distributor for final payment and physical receipt of your MMR RE? I was assuming once final payment was made I would be within a few weeks of delivery..... As of today, distributor indicates it hasn't yet left CGC. We're running on 3 weeks. Any feedback would be welcome.

Quoted from Yoxxy:

Mine shipped last Friday, it was definitely the topper part as discussed. Delivery tomorrow it seems.

Quoted from Scott9:

I just heard on a pod cast that we can add a custom logo to the MM RE??? Does this mean we can have it read with the Williams Logo on it? Sorry if this has been addressed, but was lazy and didn't want to read through the previous 120 pages... LOL

Quoted from hoopybox:

My RE arrived today, (#150!)... however once I cut the last big strap I noticed the coin door was hanging loose, only one nut on the bottom bolt. Searching around inside I've found 2 of the three missing nuts, but haven't found the third. I'm scared to plug the thing in in case that nut is bridging something bad, any tips on where else it could be hiding?[quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Every pin needs a good keychain. Color chip works despite my code install issues. CGCbhas been troubleshooting periodically. We have eliminated my SD card as the source of the issue.
[quoted image]

Quoted from monte_:

I was playing the other day and now all of the sudden the balls are having trouble making it from trough to shooter lane. Ball goes up and comes back down. Happens intermittently. What is the best way to fix that?

Quoted from Viperbsd:

These are awesome, but I am unable to find how to install the custom logo. I looked through the manual to no avail.

Quoted from Lermods:

Troll lights up on our site for anyone who might be interested.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/medieval-madnessmmr-remake-trolls-illumination

Quoted from Lermods:

No, we send with order, but it’s basically plug and play, 5-10 min install.

Quoted from Mahoneyj:

I installed the Lermods green troll lights. They are great. Love the green troll lights when they pop up. Easy install.
There is some light bleed into the Patron of Peasants and Troll inserts from the lights being always on. That can be fixed by inserting some foam weatherstripping along the boards to block the light. I think Lermods is including this in the kit now.

Quoted from Meri-cah:

Attention all Royal owners. Check your Merlin hole scoop and lock area clear coat. I submitted a ticket through CGC over a month ago. Sent these pictures. Game has less than 50 plays. HOU. My clearcoat is coming up and chipping/cracking in several areas. CGC feels that sending a small bottle of clear coat touch up is acceptable. I’ve been waiting to call them out since it has taken so long. I heard from Ryan (CGC) pretty quickly after submitting a ticket but have been ghosted now for over a month. Even after several attempts to recontact him.
I own a MBrLE and feel the build quality was way better on that game than this MMrRE which was $2k more.
Just irritated at this point for spending $10k for a game with cosmetic problems. I’ve had other issues with this game already as well. It’s too bad.
A populated playfield swap would be the right thing to do in this case. No more CGC games for me.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Lermods:

We offer the same mod, plug and play...makes a big difference if you like that sort of thing. Works for AFMr and mbR.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/medieval-madness-remake-se-re-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit

Quoted from gunstarhero:

I think I’d do lighting, topper and then screen. I did the screen first and then had to unplug and remove it (no biggie but wasted time all the same) when I needed to work in the backbox, especially the drilling and cutting for the topper.

Quoted from LTG:

Shakey shakes more. Lengthy shakes longer.
LTG : )

Quoted from LTG:

She didn't sound like that for me.
LTG : )

Quoted from Cayenne:

only two ratings are missing to bring the RE on the Top100 list visibly under the Medieval Madness
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/medieval-madness-remake-royal

Quoted from Second2Noone:

Hello LTG. You know what? It’s funny that you would reply to my own post because when reviewing previous post about this, I noticed a lot of stuff posted by you over the years from helping others as well. Real cool of you. You’ve been very good & informative with this topic and I bet probably a lot of other stuff as well. I’m just curious to see what the label on the inside of the MMr (Royal) machines actually says, in addition, to what I’ve read here on the forum.

Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

Well, Cayenne said their tests weren’t working right either so I’m guessing it’s a bug in regards to how they setup the test menu because if I did connect something wrong, when I change the lighting color\type (Interactive, White, Red, Blue, etc. ) it should then change the wrong strings or zone and that test works right.
Everything works as it should from what I can tell otherwise as I finished the remaining upgrades, summary of remaining experience is below:
Just a warning, this is the way I did it, I am not recommending my way, just sharing my experience for others and in case someone runs into the same situations that I did.
Regarding the finishing of my RGB GI Upgrade, I did install the Topper board a little higher as others recommended and took the Topper over just to double check as while these instructions are pretty good, they do need to be tweaked somewhat. I also did the Topper PCB last vs. first as I wanted to get the GI strings done and read the instructions several times to make sure this wouldn’t be a problem. The last mod I had to do was regarding my Mod Couple Barrel Light mod. It was previously soldered directly to existing GI lights but now with the RGB, there are no leads to solder to. So after thinking last night and this morning, I thought about how the Pop Bumpers (which BTW were a royal pain as the wires are so short, I don’t see how you can use a wire nut for the three and I cut them right at the lead and I ended up using Quick Disconnects and putting two together and then the other two to allow me just enough slack), anyway I am getting off track but the Pop Bumpers are connected to the plugs that are no longer being used for the original GI lighting strips, so I figured I could just do that with these Barrel Mods. I ended up cutting one of the older GI strings so I could use that connector as I didn’t have one, nor any pins to crimp the wires and then just used one of the other 5 open GI connectors and Voila. I just assume that if CGC uses this setup for the Pops, then I should be ok for two LED’s.
So after the RGB GI Upgrade, I moved onto the Speaker XL Display upgrade. I was going to do the Topper next but removing the sub woofer petrified me as my experience so far hasn’t been ideal. Anyway I did this part first as I figured I could then put the playfield down. I had a handheld pry tool that had a sharp end that allowed me to gently hammer it underneath the sub woofer. The shaker motor does get in the way but I was able to work around it vs. removing it. Finally I caught a break and the woofer platform did slowly come up with minimal glue remaking but of course one staple remained. I removed it but as careful as I was trying to be, you have to use force as I didn’t want to pry it out against the bottom of the cabinet and mar it up and you guessed it, I scratched some of the side, not bad and after a Sharpie touch up, it was good enough especially since it was below the playfield. Next I took one of my sharp paint scrapers and removed the remaining glue and then sanded the area smooth (80 grit then 320, just what I had near me). Then after drilling the pilot holes for the new mount, I tried using the #8 sheet metal screw they provide and there just wasn’t enough bite (others also commented on this). Don’t get me wrong, it does go into the cabinet but barely and not enough, at least for me, to tighten. So my though was to just get a 1 inch length sheet metal screw instead of the 3/4 inch but then I was thinking it might eventually wear out. I didn’t have any T-Nuts or those flat end screws that other pinballs use for their woofers, so I just used a bolt and nut and drilled all the way to through the cabinet and installed the bolt underneath so it would stick out a little on the inside of the cabinet and then just installed a washer and nut and it ain’t going nowhere now. It looks good enough for me under the cabinet as all you see are the tops of 4 bolts but they are Phillips head and also a washer. So the next part was the display and that was simple enough, though the instructions didn’t mention about whether to remove your grounding wire that goes to the cabinet so just removed it from my display and left it there (we’ll come back to this later). Now this is where I opted to remove the RGB pins from the connector that CGC provided and installed them in the RGB strip connector (another Pinsider provided his instructions). I was a little worried at this since no one from CGC would confirm and I get why, but thankfully another Pinsider provided me pics from his Special Edition that was already pre-wired to use RGB on the speakers and the connector was exactly the same. All I did was unplug the connector that is setup to only output Blue and instead of using that split connector for power, I just detached my existing Yellow\Black power cable from the cable clamps and that provided me enough slack to directly connect the one 2 pin power connector directly to the display. I ran the RGB cables up the existing cable clamps and inserted the pins accordingly. I just used a metal dental pic to carefully remove the pins. And that was it for the XL Display, everything worked and colors changed and was in sync with my RGB GI. Again this is what I did and I am not recommending this but others have asked about it so figured I would share.
Lastly, was the Topper. I was hoping this wouldn’t be that bad once I did the drilling of the 4 smaller holes and the large one but had a few snags. The drilling wasn’t bad, and for the larger hole I just went really slow as the instructions recommend and it took a while. I did put some tape as it was recommended in the instructions so I had just a little blow out but it was Sharpie again to the rescue. I did have one issue when drilling one of the smaller holes. It was the hole near the knocker, I was catching the end of the knocker plate so I had to move the plate over a little but had to be careful not too far, otherwise it would come close to hitting one of the bolts used to mount the knocker plate. Then I installed the T-Nuts, no issue once I moved the knocker plate (back left if looking from the front). The front right was a little tight but it worked fine. Next was to actually mount the Topper and this went fine with no issues. Lastly was the ground cable. First, since I had two Topper boards (one for the Topper Kit and one for the RGB GI Kit), I went to test fit the ground wire as I was not able to get it on the one I installed on my machine and was cautious as the pressure was getting too much on that board and didn’t want to bend it. The spade connector for the ground wire they provide would NOT fit, it wasn’t possible as the ground lead on the PCB board was wider than the spade connector, so I just cut it off and put one of my Quick Disconnect spade connector and that fit. Next the instructions state to route this though the cabinet, up the playfield and to the ground lead on the playfield PCB board. The cord probably would have reached but I was wondering why do this if all it needs is a ground lead and there is actually a free one on my original backbox PCB (not the Topper board), but remember that ground wire that was originally connected to my speaker display that was tied directly into the ground braid? I figured I would do a continuity test just to see if the ground lead on the backbox original PCB made connection to that and sure enough it did, so that’s what I did vs. having another wire connected to the playfield. Now I’m not sure if there is a specific reason for connecting this ground lead from the Topper PCB to the specific ground lead on the playfield PCB and I am by far no expert electrician but to me ground is ground and this is just what I did, again not recommending this and if someone knows why it has to be to the playfield PCB ground lead, I’d love to know.
Anyway, apologies for the novel but just figured I would share my experience. The scary part was while I did test the machine after each upgrade kit was installed, I didn’t play a game so I was dreading that something might have been disconnected, or a wire broken, etc. but the pinball gods were kind to me in the end as I played my first game about 2 hours ago and it was AMAZING, the interactivity with the lighting and OMG the sound, I had it turned to just 10 and it was so loud and all the call outs were loud and clear so not sure if maybe it’s just the honeymoon phase as I was thinking of getting Kickers since I’ve seen a lot of people going that route with the XL display but so far I am happy as I actually had kickers in my old speaker panel and while they were better than stock, they do not compare to the my current setup now.
Hope this helps and didn’t put everyone to sleep.
Take care and stay safe.

Quoted from KingBW:

The LE has a plaque, so why doesn't the Royal? I had the ULEKstore.com make this up for me. I like it.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Faust:

Thanks for the link. I read through it (before I bought these kits actually) the only difference I saw was backboard illumuniation for royal ed.
However it may be included in the GI upgrade kit; not clear to me.
Hence my questions; did they change anything else on the 13000 series (updated mechs, lights or electronics for example) that is not in the separate kits.
I’ll start reading up here but ai was just hoping someone knew something more

Quoted from Cayenne:

After reading several posts here and checking the availability, i added the Hertz DCX87.3 (named Kickers and Infinity are not available here in Germany) to my Royal Edition last weekend (the Pyle PLG3.2 is built in by default)
The sound and the call outs are a bit better / brighter, but to be honest I expected more from the many opinions here.
It's a bit better but no must have from my point of view.
The Hertz has less bass than the Pyle, so I had to change from balance to front speaker (before) to more volume on the subwoofer and now it´s totally a bit clearer (good example are the bumper to hear a bit more the sword blades sound).