MMR Classic Edition - same as MMR standard edition, but plywood bottom and finished backbox edges is standard now - original MSRP $8,000

Can anybody confirm that the color DMD upgrade sold for use with the standard edition works with the CE? Thanks!

Hi. I’m a pinhead who’s stuck in the 90’s. I’m at my local arcade 3 days a week. They rotate 20+ pins that range from Jumping Jack (1973) to TMNT (2020) and while I try them all, I end up spending 95% of my time playing MM, TAF, TZ, Whirlwind, Funhouse and World Cup Soccer 94.

I’m not smart enough or handy enough to keep a 20+ year old game working, so owning a pin was never a real option. I wasn’t paying attention in 2015 when CGC started doing Remakes, and only found out about CGC very recently. TOM and MM are my favorite pins and when I discovered I could get a MMR NIB in the year 2020 I had to join this club.

I officially joined the club on Tuesday when my MMR CE arrived. 5 days in and I’m absolutely amazed at the quality of the product CGC produced. It plays exactly like the MM at the arcade (which is maintained to perfection by the owner). I’m thrilled with my purchase! Only one complaint...

As I’ve seen others mention in earlier posts, the callout volume level is low. The music drowns out the callouts too much. This is not a problem with the MM machine at the arcade. While the music is good, the callouts are what separates MM from other pins with great layouts and rulesets.

So I’ve seen the complaint on this board, but never seen a resolution. Is there one? I notice that the software in my machine (3.0.0 Beta 1) has a “subwoofer adjustment”. The range for the adjustment is from -127 to +127. Is there an optimum adjustment to emphasize voice over music, or is the mix messed up no matter where your subwoofer adjustment is? I’ve tried a few adjustments and can’t really find any level that makes much difference. But with 255 different positions available, I haven’t tried them all. Can anybody help?

My dream scenario is that CGC fixes the callout volume problem tomorrow and on the same day announces that TOM is the next remake. That would be a hell of a great day!

Can you share the specs of that filter? Or a link? Thanks!

I realize this makes me sound selfish, but they need to be working on remake #4 rather than making more MMR’s. Anybody know if that’s happening now?

I have a question on troll sensitivity. My MMR came out of the box new in August with both trolls requiring a solid head-on hit to register. I had an issue with the bolts coming loose on the right troll, which I fixed and haven’t had any issues since. But to register a hit on either troll requires a direct, hard hit. Soft hits and glancing blows don’t count.

So yesterday I found a Williams MM in an arcade and played it. It was overall well maintained, a couple of annoying burnt out bulbs and the Merlin hole didn’t want to ever catch the ball, but the trolls were incredibly easy. The slightest brush of the ball to either troll’s face registered a hit.

I know I can make my trolls more sensitive by reducing the gap in the leaf switch. The question I have is, does anybody know how sensitive it’s “supposed” to be? I love the idea of beating more trolls at home but I don’t want to make it easier than it’s supposed to be. Any insights into the intent of the design team? Are trolls supposed to be easy or hard to beat?

By the way, based on their in game banter, I would say the left troll is definitely the more sensitive troll...

Thanks for your help.

I installed the Kickers and am very happy with them. No experience with Infinity’s.

Alright! If my CGC Tech says it, I do it! Thanks Lloyd! Easy trolls here I come!

Merry Christmas fellow MMR Owners! Wifey gave me an IOU for $200 for Xmas and I’d like your advice. Shaker motor or 3D Translite? Or any other suggestions? Thanks!

My right troll just started acting up. He slams up just like he’s supposed to, but when it’s time to go down he goes very slowly and usually stops just before the flap is flush with the playfield. The left troll still drops like a rock.

It looks identical to the left troll underneath the playfield, but when I manually raise and lower it seems like the piston isn’t traveling through the coil smoothly. Do I need to oil it? Or is it damaged? Thanks for your help!

You really are Lloyd the Great! All fixed and popping the top on the Millers at 9:10 am! Thanks, Lloyd!!!

The metal flashing on my left ramp is no longer flush on the playfield. The ball is getting airborne about 10% of the time and not getting up the ramp.

I’ve checked all bolts and screws and they’re tight. It seems the flashing has been bent somehow. See pic.

Is there a fix or do I need to replace the ramp? Thanks for your help!

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Thanks Lloyd. I was afraid to do that without checking with you first!

My MMR left flipper isn’t holding. When I hold the flipper button it fires twice but doesn’t stay up. I run Test T.12 04 (L. FLIP.HOLD) and nothing happens. What should I do next?

I appreciate any help. Please explain it like I’m about 12 years old and kinda stupid. Thanks!

Thanks for the quick reply guys. Unfortunately, I'm not finding any problems with the wires or coil. Should I assume there is a problem with the coil and just buy and install a new one? When you do that, do you solder fresh wires to the coil lugs and splice to the existing wires, or do you desolder the existing wires and then solder them onto the new coil's lugs?

Thanks again for your help!

Thanks again Lloyd. I’ve got a game manufactured in 2020. The solenoid power board is in the backbox, not on the huge playfield board. The plug J119 is plugged in firm. Is there any chance the problem resides there?

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Unable to find any problems with the wiring, I ordered a new coil. The new coil has diodes, the original coil does not. Is it OK to install the new coil as is?

Thanks!