(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

8 years ago


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5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (8 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (5 years ago)

Post #4945 differences on all MMR versions Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #5853 Damsel trapper ball, Right troll trapped ball - fixes Posted by evh347 (3 years ago)

Post #6402 Speaker Kit and Widescreen upgrade manual Posted by NeilMcRae (3 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gorditas.
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#8476 2 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

Lol. That’s the MM market problem. Everyone’s keeping theirs. Says tons about the title! More and more ‘wanted’ ads.

I wish they would make more then. I actually want a standard. I was just a little late to the game.

1 month later
#8552 2 years ago
Quoted from broada:

I think I may have gotten the wrong fuse. I used one of these 6.3A 20mm fuses I bought from Pinball Life. Is the fact that the one I used is rated to 125V a problem, instead of the 250V indicated in the manual’s fuse list (on page 1-57)? [quoted image][quoted image]

The current (A) rating is what is critical here. You can use either a 125v or 250v in a 110v application, but not the reverse. It is indeed a slow blow fuse. You can check out the data sheet here:

"GMC-6.3-R Bussmann / Eaton | Mouser" https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/GMC-63-R?qs=9GX7soZQXxHVQQ8G3UlEFw%3D%3D

1 week later
#8567 2 years ago

I've searched the thread, and haven't found a good solution. When attempting the skill shot launch, the ball is sent very close to STDM. I can just hit it with the tip of the left flipper. This post has the appearance of having adjustment by the playfield, but it's just a single, tight hole. Reducing the solenoid strength helps a slight bit, but still not enough to move it towards having the ability to live catch or get a clean shot.

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#8569 2 years ago
Quoted from SpyroFTW:

Are you sure its level from right to left? That could cause it to be more to the center than left flipper. What is your pitch front to back?

It is level, and at 6.5°

#8573 2 years ago

Follow up to my issue with the skill shot:

I consulted with @LTG, and he agreed the best course of action was to move the end of the guide a bit. I thought I'd try a thinner post rubber to start, and it was enough. As you can see in the photos, the factory post held the guide off of the metal bushing at the base. The Stern sized replacement does not. I can now control the ball on the skill shot.

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1 month later
#8690 2 years ago

I'm not sure if it was this thread, or the other MM thread that people were looking for "drop dead foam: I did some looking at local hardware stores, and found a dense, closed cell foam to try out in the Merlin scoop. Mine was better after installing the Mantis scoop, but still bounced out 1/3 of shots. After installing this, I haven't had a single reject!

I was having a second issue in the castle wall section of the moat: if the ball rolled against the left wall, it wouldn't trigger the switch. I used another piece of this foam on the wall of that section of the moat and have now not missed a single ball lock.

Edit: be sure to look at the fine print. This isn't the soft, spongy stuff of yesteryear. They need to update the main text of the packaging.

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1 week later
#8726 2 years ago

The trolls have evidently been practicing their shot put. Nice catch, Dragon.

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#8730 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Nice catch! They make a little plastic that goes over the dragon for that rare occasion. I have an extra one if you’d like me to mail it to you. No charge.

What is better than free pinball? Free pinball parts! I'll PM. Thank you!

Quoted from LTG:

From the Internet Pinball Data Base.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

I guess my trolls aren't as talented as I thought. Thanks, Lloyd.

1 week later
#8773 2 years ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

The CGC XL display is a must have.

Didn't the LE come with that display from the factory?

#8775 2 years ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

Nope i have a remake LE and the display did not. The XL is an upgrade. The Royal editions did however.

I was confusing SE and LE.

3 months later
#8938 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I just hacked a divot to the opposite side of stock on one of the weights. Now the weights are opposite of eachother..... There is noise when the shaker goes off but no shake.....

You balanced the shaker by putting equal weights opposed to each other. Putting one weight 90 degrees from the other would be the half way adjustment.

1 week later
#9000 2 years ago
Quoted from matt68061:

Hello all…. Need to pull my side rails as I am going to send the off for powder coating soon.
Do I need to pull the backbox for that?
Thanks in advance for any tips! Also posted in the AFMr thread….sorry for doubling up….this thread seems to get a little more traffic.
Matt

The hinges will need to swing out of the way to remove the upper mounting bolt. Are you not powder coating them as well? Are your rails taped on? They are a bear to remove without bending, if that is the case. My MMR had no adhesive, so they came off easily. But on other games that did utilize 3M tape, I bought new rails from Pinball Life. It greatly reduced the stress of removing them, and probably paid for themselves in prep time to remove the adhesive: they can't go on the oven with any tape residue.

2 months later
#9206 1 year ago

At least it broke while I was playing, and not one of my kids or their friends only to be sent flying into a hard to retrieve place, or to be smashed into pieces.

I've already glued the lense into place. Where is the best place to get a couple of spare lenses for when one does get broken?

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#9208 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

huh, i've never seen one break. I'd prob just get a few full leds to have on hand instead.

This is the second time I've seen this. (First was on the other side) The lenses only appear to be bonded at one point from the factory.

#9212 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Are they getting hit by your sling rubbers?
What size sling rubbers do you have on?

No. Just vibration taking it's toll.

3 months later
#9354 1 year ago
Quoted from brickbuilder14:

Thanks. Yea, I ordered that one. One more question... the kickoff from the 'moat' results in the ball going SDTM (fast!) roughly 1 out of every 6 times. I looked through the menu and theres no way to adjust the power. (I am used to the newer sterns) - Any idea how to fix that? Thanks

It is probably the ball guide on the left orbit. If you do the ball launch skill shot (hold left flipper when launching) where does the ball go? If it is STDM or at the extreme end of the left flipper it is most likely the ball guide.

#9374 1 year ago

I'm trying to install my mirrored backglass. What is the trick to get this channel to go back on without the tub deflecting out of the way as you get away from the edges? I've tried starting at both ends, working my way towards the opposite end to no avail. I tried sliding a mini screwdriver through the gap unsuccessfully. There has to be a better way.

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#9376 1 year ago
Quoted from jchristian11:

Are you putting the trim on backwards?

No. The lifting edge faces front.

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#9379 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ughhhh wonder if I’ll need that for ccr as well :/

This is what I'm practicing on, my CCR glass is on the way.

7 months later
#9648 1 year ago
Quoted from tzakiel:

New owner here of a 2015 remake. (And my first pin!)
Great machine, been having a lot of fun, but the one thing I can’t quite sort yet is the left orbit path. Fast balls out of it such as the super skillshot tend to go sdtm (when not flipping) or to the extreme tip of left flipper (if held up). As I understand it, the ball should come out of the left orbit and hit the middle of the left (unflipped) flipper. Slower balls do this pretty well, but fast ones come out in the middle.
Here is a video of the path:
I’ve been told that the left orbit ball guide needs to be adjusted, but it seems buried under wireform and multiple plastic covers. Before I disassemble a bunch of stuff, can anyone give me an idea of exactly which way I should adjust it or what will affect the ball in the right direction?

See post 8573. I had the same issue.

#9650 1 year ago
Quoted from tzakiel:

Thanks! This is exactly what I think it is.
Which rubber size/part exactly do I need to shop for?

I got mine from Titan: just order the thinner Stern style.

2 weeks later
#9694 12 months ago
Quoted from Master_of_Trolls:

My LE has the gold powder coat and I am wanting to change the color on all of the armor to something different. I have seen a few MMr's with unique colors that I really liked.
If anyone has done a custom color on their MMr (other than a gold or black) and who would be willing to share a photo and the name of the color and source (ie, Prismatic Powders, etc), I would be grateful!
Next, I have a broken right troll bracket and NO ONE has remaining stock (not Marco, not Planetary, etc) and CGC has informed me that they have "none available." I don't know if that means there are none available because they need them for the 'anticipated' upcoming run or if they simply have none left on the shelves.
I know that it is a long shot but, if anyone has a machine that they are using to source spare parts and has a right troll bracket (entire right troll assembly, to include the troll, would be even better), please shoot me a PM with a price. My thanks, in advance.
M_O_T

Prismatic Powder "Illusion Smurf Blue." Order that, and some other swatches, and see how it looks in the lighting of your pinball space.

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#9697 12 months ago
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:

I put a strip of duct tape on the moat next to the castle lock switch. Seemed like the tape secured the moat. Much to my surprise, the switch is now less reliable. Still passing edge test 100%.
I checked the switch arm and maybe it’s bent? Switch arm seems to sway quite a bit when the ball drops into the moat. Not really sure about next step. Appreciate thoughts. Thanks.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/05cJ-I554fqWnKa9GyX5Wteog[quoted image][quoted image]

On my machine, I too was not getting credit for balls through the trap door, even though the switch tested fine. The solution was a piece of foam on the left inside of the moat, to force the ball to roll directly over the switch. Nearly 100% now. I think I have a photo of that in the thread, if you search my posts.

#9700 12 months ago
Quoted from Master_of_Trolls:

Gorditas, the Illusion Smurf Blue looks really nice on your MMr!
A unique situation that I have to take into consideration is that my MMr sits next to TS4 LE (a similar Blue, but not quite as attractive as that Illusion Smurf Blue) on the right, and a Dialed in LE (same color blue as the TS4) two pins to the left.
I would still love to see other powder coat colors that folks may have used. I remember once seeing an MMr LE posted for sale (I think it was in Florida) with a reddish-orange powder coat that also looked really sharp.
Gorditas is right though, I just need to order some swatches and go from there. Would still love to see a few more pins that folks customized, though.

Most people have pins with the exact armor color (Stern Black) next to each other. My MMr used to sit next to Wonka, and probably will again soon. The color difference is enough to be interesting to the eye, in my opinion.

2 weeks later
#9729 11 months ago
Quoted from rhampo:

I'm having trouble with the ball coming off the peasant rails. I have tried several small adjustments but nothing seems to help. Any advice?
Thanks!

Get some high speed video of this happening to include the ball going up the ramp. My guess is that something is inducing a rattle or ricochet effect that is only revealed once on the rails.

2 months later
#9785 8 months ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Got it installed on my friend's machine and it looks amazing!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Shop link: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/08897-3d-start-button-medieval-madness-original-amp-remake

Looks cool. Is your friend's cabinet corner separating? I had to repair my Indy for the same issue.

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1 month later
#9821 7 months ago
Quoted from MNPinner:

Just picked up a clean MMR LE. I recall there was a mod for the catapult with a chase light does anyone know if this mod is still being made? Any mods that anyone thinks is worth. At this time I am doing the following:
Painting Castle
Pinwize two headed dragon
Pinwize light up wizard
Pinwize green arch light
Pinstadium lighting
Mezel Mod goblin green light
Any other suggestions??

I still think the best bang-for-the-buck mod is the lit troll eyes from Pinwize.

Instead of Pinstadiums, I suggest the lit barrel lights from the Mod Couple. They add just the right amount of light to the game without being overbearing, especially when paired with mirror blades. Their website will say that they aren't compatible with the RGB lights, but I have a workaround for that. (Next post)

#9823 7 months ago

I meant to write this up a long time ago, and never got around to it. I loved the look and idea of the Barrel Lights from The Mod Couple, but their mod isn't set up to be compatible with the RGB lighting on the remakes. I found a way to make this work that could be used with generic spotlights as well:

I am pulling power from the original GI circuit, at "GI1." This is part of the "Lower GI" circuit on the main PCB. Since all of the RGB lighting is coming from an external board, this is unpopulated, but still active and controllable from the game menu. It functions in concert with the RGB GI, which I am pretty sure is triggered by the original circuit. I bought a Molex connector and the connectors to go with it from Mouser.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/22-01-3047/?qs=cRUT3GdJqny7%252bjvo4bugHw%3D%3D&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/79758-0015/?qs=6kT3pPPHxnXGS%2Fs989roJw%3D%3D&countrycode=US¤cycode=USD

When I ordered my bulbs from Comet, I ordered a 2 way matrix splitter, and (2) 12" Matrix extensions.

I carefully removed the heat shrink from the Mod Couple cables, and installed the 12" extensions. I then re-installed heat shrink, but kept it isolated to the junction points to keep the wires as small and flexible as possible. The heat shrink doesn't go small enough for the wire-only sections anyway. I removed the top sling leaf-switch from it's mounting, and lowered it slightly to make more room for the Matrix connector to slip through the playfield. Once the Matrix connector was through, the leaf-switch was reinstalled.

I utilized one of the extension cables that comes from the Mod Couple kit to connect to the leads from the Mouser sourced connector. The connections are then very straightforward, and I wire-tied everything out of the way.

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#9825 7 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Thanks, I always wanted those things...

You are welcome. Feel free to PM if you have more questions.

On another note, I just noticed that the photo I posted of my game has a credit dot. The photo was from two years ago, who knows what it was at the time. But if I had to guess, it was the catapult target. It took me a while to realize that there was nothing wrong with the game, but it was a backhanded way of the machine telling you that there is something wrong with your game-play. Now every time I hit the target, I say to myself, "good for another 50 games!"

4 months later
#9888 3 months ago
Quoted from Freakyguy666:

Rumor is next year and it won’t be by CGC…

This was addressed directly by PPS. The existing relationship with CGC is unchanged.

"PPS’s working relationships with Chicago Gaming and Haggis Pinball (as well as others that are not public) has NOT changed. This agreement with Pedretti expands the titles that we can introduce into the market as well as improves time to market with PPS pre-producing parts and assemblies for upcoming titles."

1 month later
#10045 39 days ago

Anyone else have a habit of achieving new high scores after being away for vacation? It isn't always the same machine, I think last vacation it was Wonka.

I still look forward to playing my games after being away for a while.

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