Having same speaker issue. If I changed the wires at the left speaker itself, what is the correct configuration?
(Topic ID: 128232)
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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If I understand correctly, I have to swap the grey and grey yellow wires. At the speaker g and gb are on neg and gy is on pos.
So after upgrading the display to the XL version I am getting horizontal lines randomly flashing across the display. At least I haven't noticed a pattern yet. I opened a ticket with Chicago gaming but has anyone dealt with this problem before?
3 weeks later
2 months later
2 months later
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Also you may need to rewire the speakers. After the upgrades some of us only had one speaker working.
This. You have to switch the wiring in the molex connector or you can probably switch the wires on the speaker itself. There are some posts in this thread that detail this.
1 week later
Have an intermittent issue with right Joust loop not registering. I think it happens once in a while during regular play but I saw it not register several times during royal madness.
Also, sometimes the castle doesn't register a hit.
It's a very new machine, 300 plays, nib back in august, classic version.
Ran switch tests and it registers with a press or a ball.
Any ideas?
Quoted from MrMikeman:The castle hits work differently if the draw bridge is up or down. If it's up, the trigger is the opto just before the drawbridge. If the drawbridge is down, the trigger is the opto just in front of the gate. A fast ball that hops becuase of the drawbridge will often not trigger it.
The loop the switches are probably not sensitive enough and a ball that whips around quickly will not press it enough to trigger. switch adjustment is easy. The plastic housing of the switch can be twisted once the 2 screws holding it are loosened a bit. you need to twist it so it almost triggers. Hard to explain with just words. You can also bend the wire itself so it sits closer to the little button that sticks out on the switch housing.
In the attached picture if you loosen the microswitch and turn it clock wise it will be more sensitive. counter-clockwise would be less sensitive. The turning is really minimal. There isn't much play but it doesn't take much to adjust it usually. When that isn't enough then the metal wire itself can also be bent.
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I'm wondering if it's the lower gate switch on the loop. That one really has to have the gate arm all the way up to register. I'll start with that one.
Quoted from MrMikeman:The castle hits work differently if the draw bridge is up or down. If it's up, the trigger is the opto just before the drawbridge. If the drawbridge is down, the trigger is the opto just in front of the gate. A really fast ball that hops because of the drawbridge will often not trigger it.
For the joust loop the switches are probably not sensitive enough and a ball that whips around quickly will not press it enough to trigger. switch adjustment is easy. The plastic housing of the switch can be turned slightly once the 2 screws holding it are loosened a bit. you need to twist it so it almost triggers. Hard to explain with just words. You can also bend the wire itself so it sits closer to the little button that sticks out on the switch housing.
In the attached picture if you loosen the microswitch and turn it clock wise it will be more sensitive. counter-clockwise would be less sensitive. The turning is really minimal. There isn't much play but it doesn't take much to adjust it usually. When that isn't enough then the metal wire itself can also be bent.
[quoted image]
Ok adjusted lower gate switch, its now quite sensitive. I had no idea what you were talking about until I got the switch unmounted and then it was obvious haha. Thanks hope that does it ill report back after some games.
4 weeks later
No issues with the shaker in mine so I'm surprised this came up. Now Iron Man has an aggressive shaker...
Quoted from ktm450:Ledgend Pinsider kapsreiter posted a how to:
(Thanks very much for that Tom I followed your instructions yesterday and got the speaker panel RGB all up and running )
[quoted image]
I know this post is a little old but should be a key post. Just changed mine and now the speaker lights are all different colors, woot!
Quoted from northvibe:Are there two video modes in mm? I remember the one with the birds…..
If you get all the catapult things supposedly something happens.
1 week later
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:has anyone done the Royal Edition upgrades (RGB/Topper)? how big of a nightmare is it?
Yeah. Topper I had to drill a couple holes in the top. Third one was over the knocker lol skipped that one. And you mount a board in head, update code. Easy I would say.
RGB took a while and was time consuming since I didn't want to screw it up. But after a string you get the hang of it. Bumper pops was a bit odd but not too bad.
Color chip simple.
XL.display and speakers was the worst actually. Had to chisel the sub woofer out. And only.one speaker worked Had to redo the pinning in the molex connector. And if you want any color on the speakers other than blue you have to unpin the molex on the display and stick into the topper board.
Still nothing that hard, a few hours.
There are posts in this topic describing the XL display fixes.
1 week later
Listened to a podcast with Lyman; didn't realize you could get cows instead of children on catapult save the children. So I did it. Amusing, still didn't win. Darn it.
Quoted from bicyclenut:Question, I have an MMR LE and noticed that the coin door lights are really dim. I replaced them with Comet LED bulbs but then they dont work. I put the others back in and they work but are very dimly lit. Is this normal? Are all the Remakes this way?
Thank you for any help
Yeah it's dim. Mine at least the bulbs are not even that close or even pointed directly at the coin plastic. I guess if yours is the same you could try moving the lights around somehow.
Quoted from YZRider926:Anyone ever have issue with the leds in any of the inserts? I noticed within the last month or so that the 3 Lock insert is dim. Its odd though as it will work for a bit then get dim, then get brighter. Hoping its something easy, lifted the playfield and didn’t see anything out if the ordinary.
Edited yeah its leds mounted to a board. Could try opening a ticket with Chicago gaming they seem responsive.
Quoted from YZRider926:I think these are surface mount 3 led banks.
I'd have to take a look as I don't recall what's under that area on MMR. It has been solid for me so far so haven't needed.
F yeah! Finally beat BFTK! And save the children in the same game lol. Now I need to see some barnyard!
Quoted from punkin:Joined the club yesterday with LE#462.
Wondering why the display is so much smaller than the Attack from Mars remake SE that's next to it?
Was this just something they upgraded between releases?
[quoted image]
Well, you can upgrade to the XL display of its available.
Anyone else have a look down bar that's too long? Every other game is snug but this one has a noticeable gap on either side and as a result it slides around during play.
Well I bought the classic for 12.5 nib 6os ago so yeah. Upgraded to full RE goodness aside from powdercoat so that's your standard.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Is there a stamp or sticker somewhere that tells me what model I have?
I thought it was a Standard, but i see a run number from 2020. Is there a difference between the standard and classic?
Likely a classic. That's what I picked up last year.
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Man this thing is a pain in the butt to get off
[quoted image]
Yep.
I didn't bother trying to RGB the pops. Wires reached for a twist and you can hardly see them anyway so I just moved on.
2 months later
Hi all, keep getting switch error left Gaye stuck closed. Ran test 16 and it passed fine. Made small switch angle adjustment on left ramp to be more sensitive but the error persists. Any ideas 9n where to go here? Far as I can tell everything is working. Thanks in advance!
Quoted from LTG:Play a bunch of games and it should clear.
LTG : )
Yep played a couple games and it cleared. Thanks.
1 week later
Quoted from northvibe:crap, how do I get mine not to do that insanely loud BONG... Not sure, I never looked in the menu. I thought we were stuck with it.
Your speakers work other wise?
BONG! lol I always wondered why that was so loud regardless of volume.
4 months later
Quoted from northvibe:? I've had my Hookedon ones for a year or two without issue. I don't play a ton though.
One of mine came off multiple times. Took some effort to keep it glued on.
2 months later
Quoted from N101AA:If the head, playfield glass, and playfield of a MMr are removed, would the cabinet be light enough that two people can carry it up some tricky basement stairs with reasonable effort? I need to move the game from the basement to upstairs prior to putting it up for sale. Getting it down to the basement when I bought it was quite a disaster. I’m wondering if I remove the head and playfield, would that make it light enough for two adults to just carry it up some stairs like a piece of furniture.
Head and legs would be enough I think. Removing the playfield sounds like overkill.
2 months later
Quoted from PaulCoff:The Moat VUK is keeping the ball and not releasing it onto the playfield… there is the moat sound and flash. I’m going to check on it more tonight and see if it has anything to do with the switch, screw, or hopefully not a fuse / transistor issue. Thanks for everything
Switch or vuk issue broken wire likely.
Test if vuk fires in test menu.
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