(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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#1227 2 years ago
Quoted from stangbat:

What issues are you referring to? My game has been on location for 1.75 years and the playfield looks great with no clearcoat issues.

This made the rounds recently. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/documenting-the-entire-life-of-a-medieval-madness-remake/page/2

1 week later
#1280 2 years ago

It looks like I'm getting a nib MMR LE.

Best nib pin available right now for me. I've had my eye on MMR for a while but was in no rush to buy. When the last call for MMR orders was communicated recently (production ending) and AFMR was confirmed that spurred me to finally decide to get the MMR.

MM and MMR have been the only pin on my wishlist here and for a long time, so this has been percolating for a while.

At least being at the end I know the whole MMR story here; been following this thread for a long time. As for the machine itself, I like what I've seen.

I'm supposedly getting the last MMR LE in stock at Starburst. No fuss no muss is the way. I went LE since I wanted the shaker and the discount on the high res dmd color upgrade is significant.

Why did I personally chose MMR?

1. Theme. Knights, kings, trolls and dragons in the middle ages are awesome with huge appeal. And I have no pin in this very popular genre.

2. I love what I see on the pf and for play. Great toys. With this pin I think I have the top two toys in pinball (or at least two of the top toys) in my collection now.

3. I haven't played MM in twenty years, and didn't much back then either. This pin will be new to me in play and feel, just like any other new release pinball machine.

4. I expect it to fit nicely into my collection. I like a mix of pin playing styles, and prefer in my collection to have more pins that are harder and deeper. It should slot nicely in between TWD (hard and short games) and POTC (easier and long games) which are by far my most played games.

5. Hard to find locally and should hold its value well.

Time to join the MMR community.

Any ownership advice is appreciated. I need to do some reading up on that history. I'm familiar with the basics of MM pf protection options and basic mods.

#1287 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Welcome to the club!! You’ve got a nice variety in your collection already. Interestingly enough, you're joining the MMR club soon and I'm also weighing my decision to join the TWD club in the near future. With our common FT, looks like we have some similar preferences for pins! Also have enjoyed POTC quite a bit and was/is on my wishlist from time to time.
I can tell you that the #1 spot in my collection waivers between MMR and LOTR depending on the week/month and my mood. No need to hijack this thread, but PM me sometime if you've got an opinion on LOTR...

Thx . I like your collection. I'm familiar enough with all but the oldest to acknowledge my interest in owning them, so our tastes have some similarities. TWD is my favourite pin. It's got it all for me; theme, play, art, immersive experience, depth and challenging. The shorter avg game times keeps it fresh and me coming back as well. All the alternate sound files keep it even more fresh. TWD made me a better pinball player; fact and added bonus. Fish tales became much more manageable. With our common pinball interests it sounds like it should be high on your list. POTC was even better than I was expecting; a great fun pin and a beautiful contrast to TWD. I really like LOTR and have been waiting patiently for a while now for the right opportunity; none even somewhat local have come up for sale. I expect to add it at some point. As a VE would be the shiz

Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I guess you are stating that the POTC ship one of the top 2 toys in pinball, gleaned from your post. Ownership advice, the backbox key is (thanks LTG) inside the game hanging on the backside of the coin door. Do not use the deadening foam with the Pinbits merlin hole protector or you'll hang a ball during a great game and be pissed when you have to remove the glass to free it. The small red plastic that needs Pinbits plastic protector near the pops is really tough to access. loosen the top plastic above the damsel ramp and there's a slot to access the downside nut on that plastic, then angle a socket wrench to get the backside nut off. Then use an index finger from both hands to reset the nuts (underneath the ramp from both sides) after putting the protector on and reseating the plastic. There's not enough room to fit your hand in there. It's the toughest plastic protector to do. Sometimes during multiball, you can get 2 balls into the catapault at the same time and the machine won't clear them, you have to remove the glass. I have not solved that one yet.

Yup, the POTC ship is awesome. Thx for the info. Much is new and one bit of it was mentioned recently, so to have a more fulsome picture is great.

#1289 2 years ago

Is the LE still available NIB in the US? I thought LE's were gone a while back overall. (My purchase is in Canada)

MMR was lovely for what it offered. #1 game, classic title, and available NIB. To get near its newness MM prices were and remain well more. Unlike newer titles, clean versions of mm, let alone huo, are hard to come by. It's a great choice imo.

#1293 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

... NIB LE's were sold out long ago and the standards are on last call.

Quoted from Lermods:

I think my LE was one of the last off the line and it has a date of July 2016 and is 967/1000.

Yes, but didn't some distributors even in the US consistently have LE stock for a while, with the amount ordered and some people backing out over time? Similar to recent JJP pins sales.

Starburst (my purchase in Canada) had a bulk order early on, may have added more stock later (I have no idea), but ended up with some LEs left over for a while, to the point that I just got the last one they had.

Or were the vast majority of orders direct with PP?

#1299 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Yes starburst ordered quite a few, then by the time they arrived the Canadian dollar collapsed.A few backed out but eventually they all sold and two of my friends bought the last two late last year. They were officially sold out as of then.

Do you know the range of their LE #'s? Once I know mine I can likely infer the shipment history. How were their machines for insert black (using diffusers?) and slingshots?

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On a separate note, it seems Pinside did decide to make separate entries for MM, MMR LE and MMR std and that was news to me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/medieval-madness-remake-standard
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/medieval-madness-remake-le
And MMR LE is one review away from appearing on the top 100 list. Likely near/at the top. One can already anticipate the drama.

#1301 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I need to ask them but i think the numbers were all over the place.

I'll be interested in what you find out.

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On a separate note, yup, looks like MMR LE will be appearing on the top 100 list Monday. Since the MMR links are on the bottom of the last page here are the links to review MMR game ratings and for people here to rate it if they wish.
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/medieval-madness-remake-le/ratings
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/medieval-madness-remake-standard/ratings
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The MMR history on Pinside predates me here. While I was familiar with the MMR story starting around delivery I didn't know as much about the previous history. I have done a bit of reading and it is very interesting. MMR is the most successful pre-order pin ever that I am aware of. When MMR was officially offered for pre-sale the 1000 LE's available sold out in around 1.5 hrs. . With that success PPS decided to offer a standard version to fulfill the remaining demand.

The subsequent delays and issues reduced the enthusiasm for the release, which is pretty much a standard occurrence for every pinball pre-order experience on Pinside. A lot of time has transpired over the slow MMR release on Pinside; MMRs began hitting owners hands two years ago it appears. Since then, cue many new pinball machine releases and other manufacturer/pinside drama which has further eroded the the interest in the MMR offering.

Pity, because the owners have been just getting started in the last year with their enthusiasm for MMR in the club thread. I guess since MMR is a reissue as opposed to a new pin with new theme that the club thread has been slow. From what I can tell TWD started getting into owner hands around the same time as MMR (albeit MMR at a much slower drip) and the TWD club thread is over 3X as large. And TWD had A LOT of negative drama from the haters early on. I expect the MMR club thread to continue to gain activity and look forward it.

And with MMR production stopping shortly, I envision some resurgence in MMR interest on Pinside. That is why I ended up here. And imo, MMR has been flying under the radar on Pinside for a while.

While MMR seems to have fulfilled much of the interest in owning a new version of the #1 rated pinball machine, the availability was only during a snapshot in time. Now that supply will be gone, it is reasonable to expect future interest in owning an MMR will increase over time. Seems to me that MMR is a win for the pinball community and for owners. I just checked MMR LE's in the marketplace and even at this point only three were for sale; the cheapest used MMR LE had tentatively sold with an advertised price $8550 and the others were higher and into the $9k+ range. At MSRP or higher.

Enough banter from me on this post. Just wanted to share some discussion.

#1304 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I feel very lucky to have ordered my MMR LE in September of 2016 and received it less than 2 weeks later at my doorstep. Missed all the pre-order/delays issues that is so talked about.

Just found out my MMR LE already shipped with an ETA of Monday. I know what you mean.

Quoted from SuperPinball:

I was one of the first to get my MMr and back then it was ground zero for all the hostilities regarding MMr. Many had originals that dropped dramatically due to the release of MMr and the only thing they could do was incessantly slam MMr in the hopes that it would lose credibility. They would pick the most minuscule of things which can typically be found on any NIB. Then there were the barrage of names like "refake" and "feels like a toy" and "doesn't play like the original" etc. I have never seen any other new release receive so much hostility. I used to defend MMr but found that it's best to simply ignore.
At the time, it seemed that every thread that had MMr in the title was a hotbed of controversy.The same group of people seemed to gravitate to them and repeat the same garbage over and over. I created this thread as a safe haven to really discuss all things MMr from an owners perspective and share some great ideas in its modification.

Ya, I forgot about how MMR took some of MM's lunch, so to speak,... and the resultant effects. That would obviously cause huge antagonism on Pinside, based on how some members behave . And MMR was definitely a unique pin in that way (i.e., a big new release of an already well produced and loved pin). It will be interesting to see how the AFMR experience goes. I don't think it will be as crazy as MMR, being a #2 release helps most of that, but I could be wrong. I remember the refake thing, and such behaviour migrating to walking dud, goatf'ers, etc., same crowd and same story.

I find all the extreme constant and significant negativity really wears a person down. That is one of the main reasons why MMR hit the back burner for me. Easier to avoid, and that meant reading up on the newer pins.

The club thread fixes that and time moves on. I look forward to the MMR community.

#1306 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I feel very lucky to have ordered my MMR LE in September of 2016 and received it less than 2 weeks later at my doorstep. Missed all the pre-order/delays issues that is so talked about. I had my FT for about 12 years before buying my 2nd pin (MMR) and discovering pinside. After that, the itch became unmanageable!!

I gotta ask, is FT easier than MMR? I cannot remember how literally easy/difficult MMR is. Been going on an educated guess.

#1315 2 years ago
Quoted from Bronty:

Hopefully the doorman to this club won't bounce my ass out, as I don't have an actual machine yet, but I did purchase the original painting used to create the backglass, so hopefully you guys will let me use that as a ticket and stick around. Would have been cheaper to just buy a machine! Gotta get it framed, but here it is for now.
Love all the great machines on this thread, and bucketlisting it to get one
http://i.imgur.com/LshYTr2.jpg

Really cool. Thx for sharing. Join the club officially soon!

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Anyone got an answer on my earlier FT question? (Fish Tales, previous post)

#1320 2 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

That's a strange and difficult question to answer and might be better served in a separate thread where you can get Fish Tale owners to chime in. The games are very different.

Good to mention it. I've been chewing on the ambiguous nature of my question almost since I posted. Even before you asked, I further postulated it into more specifically, two parts.

1. How hard is MM or MMR to finish the game overall, as in all the modes / complete the game compared to Fish Tales?

2. How hard are they as in how comparable are the average ball times or total average game times? Is the average game time or ball time of MM longer, similar or even shorter than Fish Tales?

Any more specifics on your decisions above always appreciated.

#1324 2 years ago

Some great feedback from both of you. Thx. A bit conflicting, (interestingly), but only a bit. Your first post Pinzap was probably more helpful than the second, even before you found my more detailed question, which reminds me of why I should strive for open ended questions first. At this point, it sounds like MMR will be about as hard as I was roughly expecting. (which is good because I didn't research that part much).

#1327 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I'm guessing the conflict comes from our respective skill levels. What's interesting to me is that Steve Bowden (top 10 player in the world) finds the multiball in FT to be maybe the toughest in all of pinball yet SuperPinball would most certainly disagree.
I also have to remind myself that my skill level has increased since I first bought FT (which was when I played it more often). I'll have to go back and attempt to get to Worlds Greatest Angler. I enjoy trying for these different challenges... it's why I love this hobby!

Yup. The details matter, which explains the differences. I'm ingesting it and it makes sense (as well as confirming my early estimates on play, at least thus far).

And yes, go back to FT. New games take most of my attention as well but that makes it more fun when I get back to my older games. I learned some new FT stuff myself here (lol @ MMR threads being great). As I mentioned earlier, TWD really made me a better player, and FT opened up a lot more to me when I want back to it.

Cheers.

#1364 2 years ago

There were lots of posts and a few threads on pinside earlier discussing how to incorporate MMR into the Pinside database. It included moderators, etc. I have no idea how it got to the choices made (like many things on this forum lol,...just an observation). Will be entertaining though.

#1389 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

I'm new to the club thread, but with the recent talk I did find out that standards were spec'd with mdf bottoms vs LE with plywood. Straight from PPS website,... https://www.planetarypinball.com/mmr-faq/

#1390 2 years ago

Here is an early MMR unboxing video for anyone interested. Lots of love in it.

#1392 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

They were absolutely spec'd with mdf, but it has since been changed. Just like the shiny gold trim on the flyer became Gulden's mustard instead. Double clearcoat on LEs only went away too. All have double clearcoat.

That link identified clearcoat change to the standard machines, but not the MDF fwiw.

#1396 2 years ago

NIB MMR LE in da house, #965, gold trim.

Shipping was a little slower than the original estimate; got it yesterday evening and into the house. Set up went smooth and fairly painlessly. Pin looks spectacular and I love what I've seen in the play so far (a few games in).

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#1398 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Congrats dzoomer, what a spectacular pin, you and your family will get love it.
I'm in on AFMrLE, I wonder if Chicago Gaming would give the MMr owners a rebate if we buy one. Kind of like a customer appreciation rebate.

Thx! Looks like you were on the mark with Starburst stock as discussed earlier; it appears that at #965, my pin was a late additional order. That was rather fortuitous.

Supposedly JJP early on did something similar to what you are wondering about with PPS/CGC. Follow through was zippo . Would be nice, but I'd be surprised if so.

#1401 2 years ago

Loved getting a late production unit and serial. Inserts looks great! And appears to be past the small run that needed slingshot adjustments.

In early playing the main adjustment needed on this MMR is that the moat VUK is working maybe 40% of the time. When it doesn't work the machine does a ball search which kicks it out. Let me know if you have any advice on what to adjust/tweak (I've made a few notes from a search). Only other minor issue is a few scratches on one leg and I need to adjust one of the trolls rear metal flaps which prevent stuck balls.

It's the honeymoon phase right now, but the pin is awesome. I have no real memories of playing an MM before so it is new to me in every way. I'm loving the whole package, which this game is rated so highly for: theme, toys, play, sounds, soundtrack (entertaining and humorous), and artwork). It's also been easy to pick up quickly and follow playfield and DMD prompts.

#1411 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If ball search kicks it out, coil is fine. I'd concentrate on the opto switch in there. Clean them, follow the wires, the optos should plug into a board nearby, reseat that a couple time.
LTG : )

Thx for the help. Fiddled around that area and the VUK and it appears to be working consistently now . I need to play more games to confirm.

If I have that adjustment licked, the game is playing excellent in all ways now, so smooth and great, and basically right from out of the box. As for game play, even though I'm in honeymoon phase, I still have to say wow; such an awesome game.

Only a couple minor tweaks were needed out of the box, which is the complete opposite of what one would think reading the other NIB and MMR threads on Pinside. I've had great NIB experiences, and this one has been super smooth. I shudder to think I almost missed the NIB MMR experience .

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For those interested I started another thread asking what slope/incline/pitch people are setting their MM and MMR at. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mm-mmr-playfield-slope-incline-pitch#post-3657449

#1416 2 years ago

Well, the moat optos quickly started acting up again and to the point that the moat vuk stopped working completely until the ball search feature was triggered. The game became difficult to play obviously. A friend came over who is better at these things and fixed it! The moat VUK now works 100% of the time. The fix.... not entirely sure which it was, but he adjusted the vuk to have the metal bracket holding the ball be a little closer to the optos and he reseated all the opto cables multiple times. Thanks much for the help LTG in describing what to look at and try.

With friends over yesterday and lots of plays, it became evident the game is playing perfect now... and it's so smooth . MMR is the smoothest game I have. Really fun to see very fast shots get handled so well and beautifully. Clean fast ramp shots result in very fast ramp action and returns. And it looks awesome on the twisting ramps. Very few airballs, etc. One person called it velvety. A few commented on how it was almost like there was a magnet under the playfield holding the ball down as it was played.

The NIB experiences I've been around have been great. No bad or horror stories here, and even at that, so far my MMR has been the best, needing just a few minor adjustments out of the box. Great stuff.

Awesome pin.

#1430 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

damn!!!! its happening again.

Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

Try PMing LTG.

#1434 2 years ago

As I understand it that's how it triggers.

EDIT: Corrected below.

#1436 2 years ago

Well, it's nice to learn something new. Different from the moat hole. Thx for the correction.

#1443 2 years ago
Quoted from RedHotHero:

So- I apologize if this has probably been done to death- but what are some of the "required" upgrades? Playfield protectors and such?
Also- is there any site selling something that covers up the "missing" Williams logo on the backglass area yet?
Thanks!

I don't know what is "required" but here's a list of the main protectors.

Mantis MM protector 4 piece set

Cliffy MMR protectors 6 piece set

Pinbits MMR plastics protectors 10 piece set and Merlin hole protector

Generic mylar at marco, etc.

Replacement trolls mylar at marco, etc.

#1448 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Trolls mylar is factory installed on my MMR Standard. "6" Cliffys? Catapault, Shooter ball eject, drawbridge edge, moat jump are all the cliffy's needed on MMR. The other 2 are ramp protectors and are not required on MMR just MM.

Thx KMP! Updated that post.

The MMR set differs from the MM set on Cliff's site in that he substitutes 2 switch slots for the ramp drops in place of ramp protectors - since MMR comes new with those.

#1451 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

What's the difference between the mm and mmr ramo protectors?

As per Cliffy, MMR came factory with ramp protectors while MM did not.

#1453 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Really? Every original ive played has them and my original does? U sure cliffy just didnt upgrade the factory design as he does on alot of pins?

It's what he told me when I contacted him about the MM kit for the MMR.

The MMR set differs from the set on my site (oem) in that I substitute 2 switch slots for the ramp drops in place of ramp protectors - since MMR comes new with those.

#1455 2 years ago

What are people doing for decal protection around the flipper buttons?

3 weeks later
#1585 2 years ago

Saw a post on it earlier.

1 week later
#1687 2 years ago

Having no memory of ever playing MM, MMR blew me away, the game has it all so very well-done (theme, toys, play, quality, code, voicework, artwork, dots and integration). I feel very lucky to have had the opportunity to buy a new version.

#1738 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anyone have green flashing lights to the front of the castle during gameplay? Emanating from the green moat I assume up the castle front. I've seen this on gameplay video but not sure if that's standard lighting or custom. When I am playing I have not noticed it on my MMR factory lighting.

Yup, as you describe and ask. It's pretty obvious as an observer, if that helps.

3 weeks later
#1871 2 years ago

Had a friend add a bunch of protectors to the MMR. I heard it was a lot of work. There were no significant wear issues from game play up to this point of adding the protectors. He said that there was zero detectable wear on any of the susceptible edges/areas, except the castle hole had a bit. I should be playing the pin more!

Here's the list of protectors

--Cliffy--
Catapult
Drawbridge protector
Shooter lane ball eject
Two switch slot protectors
PF flipper drain
Castle drain hole (not installed, went with Mantis)
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--Mantis--
Castle drain hole
Castle protector w laser etched rock pattern
Moat eject hole
Merlin hole
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--Pinbits--
Merlin hole
Plastics (not on yet)
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The Mantis castle drain hole protector was installed instead of the Cliffy version. Some people have said they prefer the mantis version protectors for new pins, but that wasn't specific to the MM castle drain hole per say. That one went on last as it looked ugly for install. In the end it wasn't that bad.

And interestingly, the merlin hole has two protectors in it; one on top (pinbits) and the other in the dished hole (mantis). Works great together, no issues here. Haven't even needed the rubber damper piece.

The plastics protectors install is more work and aren't installed yet, I'll pick away at it, but am in no rush since it's huo.

There is that new flat cliffy to protect the top of the pf around the moat, which I may consider, but I also have mylar and am leaning to using that for simplicity.

Everything went fine, no significant changes in game play, and it all looks great. Nice! And lots protected!

3 months later
#2212 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anyone have spiderweb cracking patterns in the clear that's over the inserts on MMR? I have a standard manu'd in Dec 2016. With the insert lit, there's spiderweb cracks seen on all inserts in the castle gate shot path and merlin shot path and others as well. Especially the red arrow at the castle gate entrance.

Sounds like crazing. Lots of info on it on the forum.

Quoted from Plunger069:

Does anyone else have trouble with the catapult? Sometimes the ball makes it around just fine, other times it seems to hit something at the top by the switch or maybe it is the switch that it is hitting. Then the ball comes to almost a complete stop and trickles down to the left return lane. Fewer times the ball will hit the top as described before and roll down the left ramp. I have adjusted the wire form to the right and left many times as well as the power setting. It is so frustrating and ruins the flow of the game. Please help!!!

Never seen the catapult misfire on my pin. Likely some sort of adjustment is needed; someone may be able to advise. GL.

#2228 2 years ago

All default on MMR with a 7.1 degree pitch and no catapult issues here.

1 week later
#2282 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

The only castle disassembly you need to do is remove the nut on top of each castle tower and take the top (turret) off of them. Then pull up the whole castle front. The moat jump cliffy is tough to install, at least it was for me, and I skipped that one. Need to disassemble the flasher stack and white clips on the left side under the catapault ramp to do that one. Others here have gotten in in.

It isn't that hard to get to the underside of the moat jump hole in the castle. See below.

Quoted from Damien:

For the lip of the castle (small Multiball door) I have the Mantis protector installed.
The hole inside of the castle where the ball drops into is taking a beating. What's the best way to install that? Instructions on Cliffy's site are useless.
Also have a protector for the castle eject (on left) but not sure how to access it.
Thanks

Ya, the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump hole in the castle) takes a beating, maybe more than any other area. See below for install.

Quoted from KozMckPinball:

That's the moat jump cliffy I described. It goes on top of the hole, the mantis goes on the bottom of it. I have not installed either, the only ones I still have not installed and feel I need to. The cliffy as I stated, requires disassembly of the castle as described and the flasher stack near the left castle tower under the catapault ramp. The underside mantis there needs the moat to be removed. I did not want to do the disassembly required. Others here have. The Mantis moat eject (you described it as the castle eject) is easy to install as you can remove the underside moat eject solenoid and have to drill a hole underside there to install that protector. Drill an undersized hole and then install the screw so the playfield will not crack. You might have to remove the leftmost 2 moat screws as well, I do not remember, but that Mantis one is fairly easy. This is the small eject hole protector described by mantis:
http://www.mantisamusements.com/mminstall.htm
Sorry cannot help of the moat jump Cliffy or Mantis lock hole underside protector as I said I did not install them but have them on hand.

I was able to find it not too hard to get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (moat jump castle hole). That's how I installed the Mantis protector I used and recently posted about here. With some bending to fit through the hole, you may be able to install the cliffy protector that way as well. I had both protectors but after installing the Mantis, it looked adequately protected to me and the cliffy was redundant, so I didn't install the cliffy version as well.

To get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump hole in the castle), prop up the playfied to get access to the underside. Remove the moat VUK (it's on the left side of the moat. Then remove the moat plastic; it's a lot of screws around the underside of the green plastic moat. After removing the screws, I was able to wiggle the green plastic moat out from all the surrounding stuff, and then swing it out of the way (without any further disassembly other than moving a harness a bit <I think I unscrewed a harness holder in the area> and potentially unplugging/disconnecting a cable or two). Reinstall was simply the reverse.

Hope that helps.

#2284 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'm a bit confused... I have the Mantis protector on the moat jump, that also has a bar that protects the bottom of the drawbridge. So there is also a Cliffy that install under that? For what though? I know he now has a protector for the edge of the moat directly across from the moat jump, as the bounce backs beat that edge up (I already have a little crack showing). But not sure what exactly is being protected under the moat jump.
And for the Mantis protector that go into the secret entrance (inside castle), what is required? It appears to install from the bottom, so do I need to take off the moat for this?
And for the VUK protector, I read that some people just removed the mech, and a couple moat screws to get it in?

When I said moat jump in that last post, I mean the moat jump hole in the castle. Edited it. There is a mantis protector for both the moat jump hole in the castle (what I was talking about) and the unprotected wood in front of the swinging door after the moat jump.

The moat VUK protector from mantis only needs the moat VUK itself removed. It can be installed around everything else.

1 week later
#2342 2 years ago

My MMR sounds just fine with its stock speakers and like all of my other pins.

1 week later
#2365 2 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Thanks! So far only minor issue appears to be the ball getting stick in moat once in awhile until ball search kicks it out. I'm guessing the switch just needs to be tweaked up. Plan to tackle that tonight.
Guss: I hope yours comes soon.

I had this same issue, and discussed it earlier here. You're correct from what I remember. Check my old posts for the specific details; I did a simple adjustment to the moat VUK and optos, and it worked. It has never ever been an issue since.

Cheers.

1 week later
#2469 2 years ago

Pitch, settings and skill matters. At 7.1 degrees here (with all stock settings) and it takes skill to break out.

1 week later
#2532 2 years ago
Quoted from mamefan:

I've had a new MMR since Wednesday, and the ball has gotten stuck on this ramp gate twice. I had to slide the glass down to get the ball out. Is this common? I just bent the gate a little on the end trying to fix it. It might work.

Mine was a little notchy there from new; a little pin nudging would get any ball hang-up through. FWIW, I never had to take the glass off and it was infrequent enough that I never got around to adjusting the gate either. Now with more plays the gate is working more smoothly and there is no significant issue.

#2601 2 years ago

No. It's the switch attached to the moat VUK (on the left side of the playfield, and moat).

#2604 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

His ejects okay, the moat switch isn't doing anything.
LTG : )

Ah, it was a broad statement from mamefan; I was assuming he's talking about a ball search eject. It makes sense your way too.

All bases covered.

1 month later
#2775 2 years ago

MM has well known PF areas that get big time wear and MMR will be no different. Lots of pictures showing the blown out areas, many which also happen to be hidden from direct view such as the moat eject and castle drain holes, etc. Some of the protector install pictures from suppliers show how much wear can happen in those areas. The merlin hole is another well known wear area. That's why the all the MM protectors have been produced, and it's great that MMR can use them.

To each their own, but after seeing how much wear can happen to MM machines without protection I'd prefer to do the investment. After all, wear and tear (and especially pf wear and tear) means lower resale.

#2779 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Which "moat eject" area are you referring to? Just curious, as Cliffy has a moat kickback only, and Mantis has the VUK/popper one. Do you mean mylar at the moat ejects?

The moat VUK which mantis has a protector for. Same thick-style pf protector as for the castle drain.

2 weeks later
#2845 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

The fix.... not entirely sure which it was, but he adjusted the vuk to have the metal bracket holding the ball be a little closer to the optos and he reseated all the opto cables multiple times. Thanks much for the help LTG in describing what to look at and try.

#2853 2 years ago

I already posted two fixes, only one of which was subsequently noted.

2 months later
#3171 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Also, reading through these threads, can anyone a summary of what cliffys and/or other protectors I need to purchase (and where to get them) to protect the edges, playfield, etc.? These aren’t cheap so I want to get whatever I need to protect it.

There's this thing called search ... and one can do it on the forum as well as within threads.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmmmr-playfield-protectors-list
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-protectors-mantis-or-cliffy

1 week later
#3216 1 year ago

The mantis merlin hole protector bends and fits; it's purposely made of soft malleable metal. Be slow and careful. Use tools if necessary when in the hole to recover the shape. Even if you slightly crease the metal it's no big deal. It pretty much isn't visible (sunken) and it protects and works well. I put both mantis and pinbits merlin hole protectors on the MMR, as well as many of the other protectors and pieces.

#3234 1 year ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I'm looking at getting a MMR in May and thought about going this route, but I believe I am deciding against it. Based on my research it seems to me one of the biggest advantages with going new is you know that the decals are installed better than the Stern built MMRs. Wasn't there also an issue with opacity of the black ink on the fields too? That would be avoided as well.
You guys correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that all of the limited games were built by Stern. I do not like that the decals are folded on top of each other on the front corners like all stern built games from back then. In my experience there are always air bubbles at those corners.

If you're fine with getting a less-than-perfect pf, then nib is a great feel. However, this forum has shown over and over again you may get a machine with any one or more of a number of "potential" pf issues, such as chipping, ribbing, color variation, misaligned printing, bowing, etc. The AFMRLE owners thread recently went into overdrive because of playfield ribbing. There has been variability in what CGC and all other big manufacturers produce, pf-wise.

Considering that,... more and more members are reporting here they will be buying used moving forward, as buying used is king. You have the opportunity to literally inspect and see everything in detail before you buy. No surprises. I see lots of merit in that view. And yes, you also can literally check for the black ink insert opacity before you buy (there's no guarantee a new pin out of the box is free from the same flaw and variability in production...and obviously CGC does not warrant this for replacement).

And since you say that you are worried about decal folding, it sounds like you may really care about a perfect pf even more. It depends on your comfort level and expectations. There's lots of merit to buying used if any of the reported potential issues bother you. NIB is no guarantee of better/perfect.

1 month later
#3410 1 year ago

Good info above on the MMR. I'd also recommend new but I like new. New is new and it makes a big difference compared to wear and tear in the now 20 year old original games. The originals also pre-date HUO for the most part. YMMV. Any MM that needs replacement parts will essentially be using MMR parts for cabinets, pfs's, art, mechs, etc; it's the same game in so may ways. And as many have noted, it plays the same. There's an MMR being routed and posted here with 14k plays now which is showing excellent longevity results. That amount of plays is not normal in HUO, even with long term ownership. It would be equivalent to playing the game twice a day every day for 20 years straight. MMR is a great game.

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