Great thread. My goal is to join this club. I think the most impressive thing about this pin is how few are back up for sale. Despite some early issues it seems most are keeping them long term. Ill be looking in the MD/PA/VA area down the road
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Great thread. My goal is to join this club. I think the most impressive thing about this pin is how few are back up for sale. Despite some early issues it seems most are keeping them long term. Ill be looking in the MD/PA/VA area down the road
Thinking of joining club. Looking at a recent build I think. Any issues to look for? Warranty info ?
Someone trade me their MMR original for my very nice Indy Jones. I have lots of trade offers but I want an MMR
Quoted from YZRider926:Thank you that will help a lot.
I had the same questions on the AFM topper. There were no instructions so you ended up matching connectors and wire lengths
Looking to buy a friends MMr LE from a coup,e years ago....What were they new? Did they come with color chip? So many diff MMr its hard to keep track
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:$8000 would be a good price I feel.
There are some things to consider:
Color chip is a big one. The original owner was offered a discount to buy the chip, hopefully your friend bought it otherwise I think they are about $400.00
How many plays on the pin?
I consider mandatory upgrades are Cliffy, Mantis and plastic protectors. There are many more but they are more on the MOD side of things.
I installed the Troll Red LED lights that light with the corresponding flasher.
For reference I purchased a MMRLE with color chip, Cliffy, mantis, and Plastic protectors for $8200.00 about 6 months ago. It only had 246 plays on it and from original owner. I feel it was a fair price. Actually think he could have got a couple hundred more with such little plays. I was happy with the deal.
Thx for all the info !
Quoted from PtownPin:Original LE owners had the option to buy the color chip for $200.....if he hasn't bought the chip and is the original owner I would have him buy it for u.
It has color chip so that helps.
Going to help a friend who says his gate is not opening. First time working on an MMr Is there a test for gate opening and closing? Anything I should check first? Thx
Quoted from Cayenne:Yes. Glass pane down; door open; go to menu; click until T = test comes; first empty ball, take out a ball, then select castle etc. under menu item T, test gate, take ball to test
Thx! ANy known issues with gate. switches? coil?
Quoted from LTG:There is a test - enable high power interlock switch.
Check wires to coil lugs. Did collar for gate come apart where it hooks onto plunger ? Fuse ?
And it's driver board. Leave connectors on. Remove the screws holding it to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board from huge board. Plug it back in, press the ten nubs along the edge where the pins plug into the huge board. Replace screws. All three driver boards are the same, you can swap them around. People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
As always. Thx lloyd!
Helping a friend with an MMR from 2015. Gate does not go up. Error Message gate is stuck closed. Running test 19- The drawbridge lowers then the gate says it is stuck closed. In coil test it never fires.
Under pf the wires all look good on the coil They lead a to a 3 pin connector then off to some board. The metal gate assembly slides up and feels pretty smooth so its not restricted or locked coil. Any known issues or what to troubleshoot?
Thanks for any guidance
Mike
Quoted from LTG:Broken wires or poor solder joints on the coil. Especially the thin wires from coil windings to coil lugs. You might have to dig around to see a break or crack.
All good ? Then go to the driver board it is connected to. No need to remove the connectors. Remove the screws and unplug it from the big board. Then plug it back into the big board, push along the tops of the ten pins going into the big board. Replace the screws.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Thx Lloyd! I did notice the lugs look a little bent and I suspected that as a culprit.....Should I reflow solder?.....buy a new coil?
WHich board are you talking about under pf....Thx!!!!
Quoted from LTG:Broken wires or poor solder joints on the coil. Especially the thin wires from coil windings to coil lugs. You might have to dig around to see a break or crack.
All good ? Then go to the driver board it is connected to. No need to remove the connectors. Remove the screws and unplug it from the big board. Then plug it back into the big board, push along the tops of the ten pins going into the big board. Replace the screws.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Got my parts in and will fix game this week....If I replace the coil for the gate I notice it has 3 lugs. Do I just match up wire to wire? or does the order matter? Never replaced a 3 lug coil. I know on 2 lugs coils on older pins there is a diode and you need to make sure power wire and signal wire orient with the diode band. Thx
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