Massapequa, NY
Can anyone tell me if the MMR Royal edition comes with Anti-reflective glass? I've been getting conflicting information.
(Topic ID: 128232)
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
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Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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4 weeks later
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:Yup another person on here has those marks. They told him it was from hand sanding playfields. I am glad I canceled mine. That looks terrible.
As far as them being silent they must have laid off almost everyone but the team putting final parts on to ship out games.
Why would they hand sand the PF?
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:Just repeating what I was told. User NW55555 sent me a pm and that’s what they told him.
I should be getting mine within the next week or two. If I open the box and I see those swirls I would tell my dealer to send me another replacement playfield. I m not spending 10K and accepting that trash.
1 month later
Quoted from JMK:Does anyone know where I can order the Troll mod with the LED eyes?
I had these on my original MM and recall liking the mod but can’t remember who sold these.
I am wondering if I should istall Cliffs merlin and castle protector or get mantis?
https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-protector-set/
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Take a look at the Mantis set to get the cobblestone castle protector (wood protector at the castle lock door) or buy it separately thru an email to him. It's the easiest protector to install, one existing mounting screw. Also, you are missing the Cliffy drain hole protector. For anyone watching the video, the rollover Cliffy switch protectors do have adhesive backing so even though easy to install, get them on right the first time as the adhesive backing will be a bear to deal with if you need to get them back out. One tip for the moat jump Cliffy at the castle hole, there are 2 designs, one has a hole and one has a slot. The slot design is the latest and the one you should procure. I installed the Mantis and the Cliffy in the castle hole and even with the Cliffy slot design, I had to modify the slot to play nice with the Mantis. I did this 2.5 yrs ago, and probably have comments from that time frame to data mine here if anyone is interested.
BTW, I did not have to remove ramps to install at the castle hole, just that plastic stack to the left and disassemble the castle.
I don’t think he installed the drain hole because mmr have a protector around the trough at least my MMR RE did. Also, Cliffy forgets to give you the right side shooter lane protector . You have to email him to include. I installed all the Cliffy except the castle moat and Merlin which is the pinbits carbon fiber .
Can I install the mantis Merlin and the pinbits Merlin protectors together?
Also, just to clarify , instead of installing the Cliffy moat which looks like a pita , does the mantis one just slides in and bolt from the bottom or do you have to disassemble castle as well ?
looks like someone made a more advance backboard mod.
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album06/Pinball/mm2.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=14&v=e1Vw7Fv18kw&feature=emb_logo
Anyone still make these?
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I did this 2.5 years ago, this is the best of my re-collection but my install comments are still here in 2.5 year old comments. I installed Mantis and Cliffy in the castle moat jump hole together and Pinbits Merlin and Mantis Merlin protectors together as well. It is not easy, that's why not many MMR owners do it. I cannot remember if the Mantis moat jump needed a hole drilled or not, Cliffy definitely did not. Both should be installed from the topside, as bending the Mantis to fit from underneath will be an issue with hole side wall contact, the bent portion would have to be over bent to get the side wall pressure fit back. For that reason, underside installation of the Mantis moat jump castle hole protector is not the way to go. I do not remember which one went on first but I think I put the Mantis on first then the Cliffy and I had to modify the Cliffy slot to work with the Mantis already installed. Make sure that you have the Cliffy Moat Jump protector with the slot NOT the hole, the slot gives you more adjustment in the install positioning. The Mantis Merlin is the same issue, DO NOT BEND IT, it will not snap back to the original shape. 2 screws need to be installed for the Mantis Merlin. DRILL PILOT HOLES FIRST or the wood will crack.
Here is a pic of my Cliffy Moat protector I just received from Cliffy. Is this the hole and not slot ? How does the mantis and the cliff install together?
Also, the Mantis Merlin protector, can you install from the top like the pinbits or do you need to go from the bottom?
mmr moat (resized).jpgQuoted from SantaEatsCheese:I sent an email off to Mantis to see if I could get just the cobblestone protector this morning. I emailed Cliffy this morning with a link to the videos, and he's going to send me the drain protector and another I didn't understand (TBD). He said he used to include the drain protector, but CGC started providing them Gratis in their games so he stopped. However, I have a very early run LE #260 and they hadn't switched to these yet. I'll throw up another video when it shows up.
Why dont you buy the full kit from mantis? Kozmckpinball says you can install both the mantis and the cliff/pinbit Merlin protectors together. Also, does you Cliffy moat protector look like mine (see above post)? Kozmckpinball is saying you need the slot version to install in conjunction with the mantis.
Lastly, are you planning on to make an installation video of the mantis protectors?
Quoted from KozMckPinball:The other thing about the Mantis Merlin protector. The scoop hole is round, unlike the castle moat jump hole that is rectangular. Being a round hole, the protector can be rotated 360 degrees, and the position has to be figured out and hole location marked, then drill. It is not a discrete position like the other protectors and this is important. Find the spot in the Merlin hole by rotating the protector around until it does not interfere with playfield mechs/parts. The Merlin solenoid bracket has to be removed to get the protector in, and you have to be aware that the solenoid bracket sits in a recessed spot in the playfeld, offset to the Merlin hole, when finding the right position for the Mantis Merlin protector. A video would be better for sure, but in my case, I've already done the work long ago. One other important note, the Mantis Merlin if positioned height-wise to the playfield is too high, there will be a lip that causes ball rejects. This can happen if the protector is bent before install.
can you take a picture of yours from underneath and on top?
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Fixed. I call it the moat jump in the video but it's the Mantis Castle protector. The naming convention on these are confusing.
So if you drill a hole to attach the castle protecter i assume you use a flat headed screw? Do they provide you with that screw or know what size?. By not having a screw in there, does the ball get hung up or divert because of the bevel hole is empty as its missing the screw?
So I just got my Mantis full protector set. Through the instructions, Ive identified all parts except for these two. What are they for? Do I need them If I have the cliffys installed?
https://mantispinball.com/wp-content/uploads/installation-mm-protectors.pdf
IMG_3547 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gumby510:Anyone know what size the rubbers are above the slingshots on the left and right side. Is it 1.5 and 1in rubber on the right?
Thanks
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/3056
Quoted from bent98:So I just got my Mantis full protector set. Through the instructions, Ive identified all parts except for these two. What are they for? Do I need them If I have the cliffys installed?
https://mantispinball.com/wp-content/uploads/installation-mm-protectors.pdf
[quoted image]
Anyone know?
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Its the Mantis Moat Jump and the Mantis Moat Eject protectors. This information is already here in the thread. There's a video showing the Mantis Moat Jump install and my picture of the installed Mantis Moat Eject. Just read the posts that are already here.
I assume i dont need them if I have the cliff protector set. correct?
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I installed the Mantis protector in the castle moat jump hole last night. I have about 750 games on my MMR and could already see some clear cracking and a tiny bit of edge wear on the playfield wood straight back from where the ball enters that castle ball lock entrance. I agree that this is an essential protector for MM/MMR. Lots of disassembly required though, on the underside where the mantis goes, VUK mech has to come off ( 3 wood screws), to get that off, loosen a small circuit board to get the 3rd VUK screw out, have to unscrew 4 wiring harness ties, disconnect 3 wire connectors to FL72, SW37 and SW41 and then remove the moat by taking out 7 screws and disconnecting the moat wire connector. Have to loosen one of the L brackets where one of the wiring harness ties goes in as it interferes with one of the Mantis screws, which there are 3 of in total. Took me all of the late Monday Night football game Broncos/Chargers, I figure 3.5 hours. The Cliffy moat jump protects the same area of wood that Mantis does and also protects the moat plastic itself, which the Mantis does not. I agree that that Cliffy moat jump might not be essential, top dis-assembly seems difficult to get it in anyway. The moat assembly if it gets cracked would cost about $85, but could be replaced.
I found the post you made., Looks like you the mantis castle moat jump and and the Mantis Moat Eject protectors needed and can work with the cliffy moat jump. You mentioned a video of that install. I couldn't find it.
also, do i need the eject protector or does the cliffy one take its place?
I wish I had a picture of video as it gets confusing as how those mantis work with the cliffy. I want to install but want to make sure i do everything and not have to do extra work.
Can someone tell me what voltage the spotlight LED's are that are on each side of the castle. Does it matter that I have a royal edition which has the RGB GI. Those bulbs look to be 1 color, just white, so I assume they are 6.3V wedge style?
I installed the cliffy Merlin protector but the mantis one didn't work out. WTF
I was able to install mantis protector by drilling pilot holes and installed the screws from underneath but the protector mount prevented me from installing the Merlin eject assembly .In the picture (red arrow), the the Merlin assembly mounting holes don't to line up because the mantis plate (yellow arrow) prevents the Merlin asserbmly from going to the far left. If you look at the play field top view (last pic) you see the Merlin black arched metal piece is not centered with the hole but instead, all the way to the left. Is that supposed to be that way?
install (resized).JPGmmr (resized).jpgtop view (resized).JPG
Quoted from KozMckPinball:My previous comments, post #6587, about the Merlin actuator bracket...
I dont see how thats possible since the bracket is half moon. ITs not a 360 degree round hole protector. The position that i installed it was the only option. If you try to rotate the protector, the lip of the protector on the Merlin hole on the playfield side would change and there fore not be protected. can you share with me in the position of the bracket. Talk in terms of o'clock position. If you can provide a picture of yours atleast from the playfield side, it might clear things up for me.
looking at the Mantis instructions, https://mantispinball.com/wp-content/uploads/installation-mm-protectors.pdf
It doesnt look like the machine in the picture has that Black metal Arch that is attached to my merlin eject assembly. That is what is preventing me from installing the assemble back because it interferes with the bracket. Do you have that on yours?
Quoted from Westsiderkg:Look at this on eBay
ebay.com link
Has anyone installed the merlin scoop green LED light from this ebay seller?
Looks like a neat mod.
I purchased the green troll lights from him and they're neat. They do require soldering on the MMRRE, fyi. If anyone needs help just PM me.
He said for the green merlin light mod to work I need to locate a GI connection on the MMRRE to tap into. Anyone know where a GIs located? Probably right under my nose.
[quoted image]
I am going back and forth with him telling him what to do as I am interested in a few of his mods. If you have a MMR SE/RE you will need to wire it up to your 12v power supply and tell him to use a 12V LED because the GI on those are RGB and not the typical 6V GI.
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I already provided pictures.
I didnt see any from the top side.
I got this from Mantis
" The merlin protector and the merlin weldment are pretty tight in the same hole there. (obviously) The factory doesn't always install the merlin weldment dead center. Sometimes they are off slightly. It looks like the merlin weldment has room on one side but not the other. I'm guessing the fix is to move the merlin weldment slightly to allow both to occupy the space. Others have written about this on pinside. Some have taken the merlin hole protector out and some have had adjustment issues that required a lot of time.
I'm sorry you are having this problem!
The old holes and new holes on the merlin weldment if you move it are so close together it will be hard to get the screws to go where you want. You can slightly widen the holes on the merlin weldment itself with a dremel tool or larger drill bit. This may give you room to slightly move it in the desired direction."
Mine is too far off to make the mounting holes bigger on the merlin assembly. I guess I am not going to use this protector. He asked him to do a redesign where he would move the tabs to mount this higher up but I dont think that is going to happen.
Quoted from Westsiderkg:http://wolfsoft.de/wordpress/?p=1279
This link explains what I am looking for.
Hope someone has a lead out there!!!
It would be nice to get that plastic to put on the sticker. I bought PDI's and waiting for it to ship. The had to return the other sellers on ebay's were just a thick ass 3m tape and too big.
I am making the castle cobble stone sticker for the castle gate metal under the door. PDI wants $40 for it in a set. I will sell for $10 + shipping. I will make a post here once i get them made.
The pdi should be good . Ill let you know when i get them. There is a guy on ebay that sucks. HE touts that they are thick and have better ball cusion. Stay away from those. I dont want to post a link to his page and trash his business. PDI sells them on Ebay too.
Quoted from Jon9508:Had to superglue mine. They wouldnt stick any other way.
For the flipper or the castle or both? Which super glue did you use?
I also tried hot glue for the castle but that didnt work either.
Quoted from PinScott:By the way, 300LSE was selected because it "provides high bond strength to most surfaces, including low surface energy plastics such as polypropylene.....also provides excellent adhesion to surfaces contaminated lightly with oil typically with machines parts".
It only came in a roll but I have found uses for it since.
Good stuff with CA doesn't work.
https://www.amazon.com/300lse-Double-Sticky-Adhesive-Digitizer/dp/B00MVAW802/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_1
There are a few types and they look thick! Can you please tell me specifically which one i need?
Quoted from Westsiderkg:Use a dab of loctite super glue gel and a C clamp, you'll be good to go!
[quoted image]
Yea I did that exact same thing but with hot glue. 
which didn’t work
Quoted from LTG:Remove the two towers ( one screw on top of each ) Lift up castle front and remove. A little more involved to remove the piece to the right and damsel tower.
LTG : )
so you dont need to remove any ramps?
What about the right and damsel tower?
Quoted from LTG:LTG : )
How much of a bitch is it? It was so easy to get front castle off. I want to paint everything.
Quoted from Westsiderkg:Looks great!!!
You plastic is install in that pic too
1 week later
Quoted from Westsiderkg:I'll try to post a couple pics tomorrow when I go to install the cliffy set coming in the mail, tks.
In the meantime here's another shot, in blue...
[quoted image]
I'd like to see what and how you lit yours aswell.
Quoted from Westsiderkg:Doesn't look pretty, but does the job.[quoted image]
that a white light? 12v or 6.3v?
I've been working with Cointaker to create a colored plastic protector set that will include 9 pieces + the one that protects the one that Westsiderkg create.
I will be a little while before I can post pictures but I figure id let you all know its coming.
Quoted from wolftownjeff:Can you some plastic protectors for this piece?
I am working with coin taker on a full set.
1 week later
Quoted from Westsiderkg:After a long journey I am finally satisfied with my missing center lane. To get to this point:
1. I had to create the center lane piece (FYI - I decided to make ONE more run of these missing center lanes for other MM owners, so if you want one PM me. This will be the last run, way too much effort).
2. Painstakingly dremmelled out the inside of the metal housing surround.
3. Lermods made a custom RBG led light strip, just small enough to insert in this very small space.
4. I originally contacted convolux for yellow playfield plastics. However, they only make them for the lower portion of our games and with all the effort I put into the front of the castle, including having Modfather and M&M do custom paint work, I wanted a full playfield plastics kits in yellow. Luckily, www.playfield-protectors.com makes a 9 piece kit (Germany) and they included extra plastic for me to make a matching custom center lane piece for myself.
WHEW...So after several weeks of trial and error, many playfield lifts, gaming downtime, and thrown out test parts, here is the final eye candy...ENJOY!!!
[quoted image]
do you have pictures of the rest of the protectors?
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Love it! Is that the trans light or the glass Backglass?? Was thinking about this. Not sure which is better for fitment. Does the trans light just slide out? Sadly haven’t even checked on this. When I took it out, the whole light box case out and it was a little surprising since I’m used to just taking out the glass/translight.
I had to return the translite paper one that gets taped to the glass and get the acrylic one that replaces the glass. The one that uses your glass just doesn’t fit right because it’s thin and flops around. The factory translite graphic is very rigid . With the acrylic version ; it’s nice and light so if you have to remove the back glass, it’s easy.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Just got done accessorizing my MMR,
Added mirror blades, orange plastic protectors at the kickers/guides,Titan purple rubbers and red posts, and finally the new NEO Pinstadiums! The color saturation is a huge jump over the normal Pinstadium lights. Now just need to settle on which color I want. Overall very happy, now to get better at this pin!
[quoted image]
Can you post a video ?
3 weeks later
Quoted from LTG:Black electricians tape on the sides of the glass.
I never worry about it. On some games it wants to slide right out. Other games it stays put.
LTG : )
Black elec tape is kind of wide. How do you apply without it sticking out?
2 weeks later
Quoted from LTG:People have used it on flippers in the past. I don't know what colors or how successful it was.
LTG : )
What would you recommend for possibly grinding off the Williams logo? I have a small dremel but not sure what tip can be used for fine control.
Quoted from rotordave:You can buy new plain ones from Pinball Life for a couple of bucks each. Keep the Williams logo ones for spares.
rd
I need purple. As mentioned, PBL doesnt come in purple.
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