(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by CurtisC
  • Topic is favorited by 378 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 first pic Posted by SuperPinball (8 years ago)

Post #3445 anti scratch tape Posted by Jarbyjibbo (5 years ago)

Post #4945 differences on all MMR versions Posted by f3honda4me (4 years ago)

Post #5853 Damsel trapper ball, Right troll trapped ball - fixes Posted by evh347 (3 years ago)

Post #6402 Speaker Kit and Widescreen upgrade manual Posted by NeilMcRae (3 years ago)


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#417 8 years ago

Got my MMr just last Thursday. Ive notices that the peasant ramp sensor just right behind the castle doesnt always register the ball. From observation tonight it would seem that fast balls are registered, but slower balls do not register. Is that sensor supposed to register every ball?

#428 8 years ago

I have read here that some find the shoutouts are too low in the sound mix. I found them a bit low until I added a subwoofer to my machine. Although, I think the difference was from the capacitor I put in place for the subwoofer. Now the shoutouts have nice separation c\learly coming from the cabinet speakers, more clearly.

As for the peasant rollover switch issue I mentioned above, I tried bending the leaf, works some but not 100%. I will check for loose screws tonight, thanks for the tips!

#445 8 years ago

Ok, so Ive had MMr for 10 days in the house. Havent made any adjustments to make the play easier. Left the out lanes as per factor, same ball save time, angle at as close to 6.5 degrees as possible and man, its kicking my butt. So fast and draining like crazy...

Has anyone else had this experience?

#446 8 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Unscrew the 4 nuts holding the speaker and the mesh under it. Get a piece of speaker wire about 10 feet long and fish about 2 feet of it under the mesh from under the cab. Attach alligator clamps to each of the 2 wires inside the cab, one red and one black. Clip each of the wires to the different poles of the speaker. Just make sure you don't mix polarity keep blacks with blacks and whites with whites. Finally attach the other end to the back of the sub. Adjust the sub to your taste.

Wire_under_mesh_(resized).jpgConnection_to_speaker_(resized).jpgBack_of_speaker_(resized).jpgSub_under_pin_(resized).jpg

Ummm, dont you want the speaker wires going to "speaker level In"?

#449 8 years ago

How do you initiate multiball madness?? The manual says compete one of the tasks, for example, revolting peasants, and then make the Merlin eject shot. Im assuming that when you complete a task, then it lights up under the eject hole. but, there are times when I light up a number of tasks then put it in the eject hole, but multiball madness does not initiate. Do you have to do something else other than lighting up a task?

#457 8 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

tonight I wired a blue led strip above the back panel and tied it into the flasher it makes the Lightning effect way better
» YouTube video

wow, looks great!! I may have to do that myself!

1 week later
#494 8 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

Before my friend made the decal I have on my machine, my plan was to take a hi-res picture/scan of the bottom of the front of my MMR cab then resize the image, bring it to a local sign shop(where he had the current decal printed) and have one made up. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about

image_(resized).jpg

Thanks for posting this. Looks good, I will do exactly that. That blank space sure is begging for something. And why they didnt put the LE plaque with your numbered pin in that space is beyond me.

#513 8 years ago
Quoted from Drewblood419:

So I just got home from work and checked the mail. Looks like the diffuser kit for my MMR just showed up. The diffuser is a large sheet of styrene plastic and a few smaller pieces(for the smaller led boards) and it looks like you install it in between the PF and the main board(and smaller led boards) using existing screws and holes. I have my daughter tonight so I won't be able to install it until tomorrow after work (or maybe tonight after she goes to sleep) but here are a few pics in the meantime.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Id like to see how the inserts look after the diffuser is in place. Looks like is a pita to install, but if it looks better then, might as well get it done. To get the diffuse sheet, do you contact them at their Chicago gaming website? Thanks for posting.

3 weeks later
#590 8 years ago

has anyone noticed a little static sound when playing it?

9 months later
#1152 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

Blurry pics but here is a new topper I made for my mmr with ebay armor, chainmail, plastic skull and LEDs. I have a flame LED light mounted on the back of the cabinet head. The whole thing is constructed on a 2 x 6 painted black and it just sits up there without any hardware as its on the heavy side and the armor hugs the machine.

That totally rocks!! Congrats on the build, very nice work!!!!

1 month later
#1419 7 years ago

Ive started to have an issue with Merlin's VUK. Merlin's VUK, doesnt work after game is at rest for a few hours or more.

Over the past week or so (have had the pin for 1yr, NIB), when I start playing MMr, when the ball goes into the Merlin hole, it is registered by an audible or Merlin's magic, but the VUK doesnt kick the ball up. Then the pin goes into search mode, then kicks the ball. For all the next times the ball goes into Merlin's hole, it gets kicked out no problem for the rest of the time I play 2,3, 10 games.

This only seems to happen when the machine get turned on or has been left on but has not been played for a number of hours. Sight inspection under play field show no obvious issue.

Any idea why/how this can happen?

#1422 7 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

On advice for LTG, I solved my merlin non-kickout issues by put a single #8 washer under the solenoid bracket for the left side screw. Left meaning looking at it from underneath the playfield. Not sure why this works but it does. The mechanism to detect the ball in the hole is separate from the kickout, that mechanism is the silver thin bar. It's also possible that the solenoid (a black cylinder comes up and down to kickout) cylinder is stuck in an up position and won't kickout. I had this problem after installing the mantis merlin hole protector, it interferes with that cylinder if you are not careful. So play the game with the glass off and see if that cylinder is stuck up first before the ball search clears it.

Thanks for the tip! Tried it and it didnt work...will try a thicker washer. Anybody else?

#1424 7 years ago

no, its not stuck in up position and i believe the washer trick is to push the ball all the way out of the hole when the VUK is still working. My problem is after the game has not been used for a while the first time the ball goes in it is not kicked out. After that it seems to work fine...

#1426 7 years ago

I followed LTG's advise for a similiar problem followed the cable to the board and reseated the plug. I did a quick rub of rubbing alcohol on the pins and now its working every time. Thanks for the help....

#1427 7 years ago

damn!!!! its happening again.

Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:

Have you done a switch test right after turning it on?

Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

#1433 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it's the optos acting up, please follow the wires from them to a board nearby they plug onto. Reseat the connector a couple times.
LTG : )

Are there optos to Merlins hole, I took a look, but coulnt see any?

#1438 7 years ago

thank you LTG for the help!

I think I finally have it fixed...I checked wiring back to the board for the switch, but not the VUK, I seated and reseated and it has worked twice now after being dormant for a few hours...should have done that when I checked the switch, hate these grey moments...happening more and more often...duh

6 years later
#9865 5 months ago

Can you do an RGB Color-changing lighting upgrade to a MMr LE circa 2016?

#9868 5 months ago

Thanks guys! I'm just back from checking out a MMr LE, and the verbal deal is done. This will be second MMr LE...the one pin I want back after all these years! ...and the seller, very nice guy, has a SM LE...the other pin I want back, lol...

1 week later
#9874 5 months ago

Ive looked through the manual for my MMr LE and cant find specs on rubber size. Can anyone give me the sizes for the rubber just above the right and left outlanes? As well, are the slings rubber standard size? Thanks in advance. BTW, after a 6 year absence, MMr LE is back in the house...and loving it!

#9876 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/3056 There is a post on there which might help you.
LTG : )

Perfect, thanks LTG.!

As for full flipper assemblies, is it Williams that work for an MMr? In the manual it appears the part number is PIN-A-15849L2 Or R for right I guess...but I can't find this at pinball life - can you only get them though Chicago pinball?

#9878 5 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Chicago Gaming doesn't sell parts. Planetary Pinball Supply is the source for parts for remakes.
Williams flipper parts are the same thing. Pinball Life has full flipper assemblies. If the Pinball Life ones have diodes on the coils, cut the diodes off.
LTG : )

Man, if we were in the same town, Id invite you out for a beer, thanks again LTG!

1 month later
#9919 3 months ago

Quick modding question - I have a MMr LE: I installed Lermods green troll lights (Medieval Madness REMAKE Trolls Illumination) as per directions to the power supply in the cabinet. as per directions, the lights stay on and create light bleed to the inserts around it. They provide foam to block the light, which I have installed, but there is still light bleed.

Previously, I installed Pinwize's LED Trolls and these LEDs get their power from a troll coil, therefore, the LEDs are only on when the trolls are up - no ongoing light bleed.

My question is, has anyone installed Lermods green troll lights to the troll coil on a MMr with success. Since both mods are LED lights, very low draw, I would think it would work, but just checking the pinside wisdom and experience before I redo and maybe have to undo.

Thanks in advance!!

1 week later
#9937 3 months ago

Can anyone point me to the proper full flipper assemblies I can buy to replace when needed? Is it simply the ones for MM Williams?

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