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Quoted from jdroc:I joined the club this week with a NIB MMR! So far mostly so good but 2 days in I've run into my first problem. My tower diverter stopped opening yesterday and now is reporting stuck closed when in the Tower Test menu (T.17). I opened a ticket with CGC but figured I'd check to see if anyone else has run into this and has any ideas.
If I run the diverter test, you can hear the coil try to pull the diverter down but it doesn't go anywhere, like it's stuck. If I put the slightest bit of pressure on the top of the diverter while running the test it will retract every time. I can pull it down easily from below the playfield and nothing feels stuck...except me trying to fix it! (see what I did there?)
Excited to be in the club either way, she looks great next to my LoTR LE!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you ever find out the problem on this issue? I have a fairly NIB MMReSE (got her about 4 months ago) -plays great right out of the box, but now having that same issue. Checked the 3 switches, etc - all register during test, but my screen shows the same issues.
Any ideas on this one?
Still waiting on my topper (paid 7/29/20) and have heard all the reasons...so not holding my breath here...(Been told "it's shipping next week" 4 or 5 times now..ugh)
But on a positive side - I did receive and install 3 mods from "Lermods" - Trough illumination, Underside illumination (both ties in with the RGB of the machine) and the Trolls illumination (sorry, but a must have!) - these all were installed in less than an hour and really added for the small amount paid for the 3 mods. Kudo's to Lermod's and customer support!
Added the mods noted above, shaker , mirror blades and ordered the topper for my SE. Love this game!
Finally arrived! (Well - both toppers in one day! Ordered Drac for the MB on Thursday and the MM topper on 7/28. Both arrived yesterday). Weird - my MMRe Special edition had a Topper2 pcb pre-installed. But the topper kit didn’t have the right harness to connect to it. I placed a ticket with CG but to make it work (yes after waiting patiently I had to!). I went ahead and installed the 2 card (Topper3 pcb) and wired per instructions. (Left the other one installed just in case??). But both are working and looking great !
9F0E29CA-6609-4835-B87C-E2FFFAEDF1E6 (resized).jpegC2970A0D-33BA-4BFB-81A4-63210922F4E0 (resized).jpegCEAC2B67-38C7-4F38-9F73-3DD1CBCB84EA (resized).jpegQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Good to know.
Beuller? Anyone want to sell their spare?
My "Topper kit" came with a Topper3 pcb board. My machine, when purchased, had a Topper2 pcb board installed. Per CGC, I've installed the new board made all connections and all is working. For the time being, I left the other board installed and hooked up - all still works. Per CGC, I can now just remove the Topper2 board altogether (don't know what happens when I unplug the connectors on it tho??)
But, if this Toper2 board is not required, and it will do what you need, more than welcome to have this one? I'll PM you if after taking this one out and hopefully have no issues. Let me know if this will work for ya.
IMG_1436 (resized).jpgQuoted from LTG:I'd do that.
LTG : )
Yea installed the smaller one (while leaving the larger one previously installed in place ). Works great! Per Cgc I’m to remove the older one. It’s in the way for the smaller one to be permanently installed. Just haven’t got to it yet.
Instructions weren’t clear on that whole set up. But the peeps at cgc and LTG made it smoother.
Apologize if asked previously -
1) how do you adjust sensitivity on hitting the trolls ? When first playing they were pretty sensitive - but now they take a good hit and sometimes no register of a hit. Is this a switch adjustment or a system adjustment ?
2) right troll suddenly quit popping up. Haven’t opened her up yet as I’ll try to fix #1 above at the same time but thought I’d ask if anyone else has had either issue ?
As usual - thanks LTG in advance.
Well that was a little easier said than done. As I had issues with the right one not popping up , I looked and one of the small screws holding the face on had come loose. To get at this I had to remove the full coil and then release the troll Mech from that shaft and take completely out
Got the screw back in and tightened both to keep the face back on. Checked the switch and it looked pretty close already.
Reassembled the right one and then adjusted the switch on the left side just by raising the troll up.
The right was was still not activating - Turns out that switch had bent closed - so it sensed this and never popped up. Adjusted it slightly open as the left one is now - and back in action.
Popping up as it’s supposed to and registering hits as it did before. Not too light of a hit but strong enough to make a troll growl !
All is well in the kingdom once again. Play on!
Quoted from LTG:Under the playfield unhook the troll face connector. Remove the hex head thing holding the carriage to the plunger. Then wiggle the troll carriage up and out, lean to the left to clear the thing that triggers the up/down switch through the playfield.
LTG : )
Yep. Thought I had to remove the coil. But after that it was still not getting out of there. Then (and why don’t I just refer to the manual?). But realized the troll Mech was attached to the shaft with a thru bolt Finally figured it all out and she’s back in action
Question - for the troll face - luckily there was one screw still semi tight and one barely hanging on. Used a very small open face and got them both in and tight again but how in the world would you get to the back of the face to put those two screws in ?
Take the switch apart? Just glad I didn’t have to go further.
Weird one (left side ) was spaced too far open and one (right side) was spaced too far closed.
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