San Ramon, CA
After I did the S/W update, the knocker doesn't work anymore, and prior to the update it certainly worked.
Has anyone else had this issue?
Robert
(Topic ID: 128232)
Linked Games
Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider MrSanRamon.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from bobbypin:Yes strange enough I had the exact same knocker issue, During the update process the knocker went off really loud and then I noticed it wasn't working anymore after the update. Checked the fuse and that was it - can't remember the fuse number I think it was a 4a Slow Blow.
Yea, WTF...my F4 fuse is open too. Why would a fuse blow when one is updating the S/W?
Thanks for the idea to check the fuse.
Robert
2 months later
4 months later
I enjoy my MMr and the only recurring issue I have is with the Castle Assembly "Hinge-Flap" (P/N 31-2826-3B).
In multiball (usually) a ball will get stuck behind the flap and sit there, and the only way to get it out is to take the glass off...really annoying.
Either the flap mech is binding, or the 6.5 deg slope isn't enough to allow the flap to let the ball drop back into the moat. Haven't had time to take the assembly apart to try to diagnose the cause...or gotten out my WD40 
Robert
10 months later
Quoted from gjm7777:right one doesnt seem to have the sensitivity as the left.
One thing I can think of is that the flipper is tighter on the bushing on the right than the left.
Did you use a tool to set the flipper to bushing gap?
Is the gap the same on both?
Robert
8 months later
Quoted from metahugh:Would any of you consider trading your MMR for a MBR? I'm debating this currently. Talk me off the ledge
LE for LE, Standard for CE or some other combo? That might make a difference in the decision.
Robert
Quoted from Only_Pinball:t's a little different on MMr as the difference between the standard and LE is just a shaker motor and trim color choice. You can add a shaker for $150. Both needed the color upgrade.
He gave no indication of what was being traded...a standard routed MMr without color with 10,000 plays for a MBrLE or was it a MMRLE with color chip and 30 plays for a MBr CE.
It makes a difference and that's what I was drilling down to.
Robert
1 month later
Quoted from Deez:Does the gear just slide off the shaft and a new one slide on?
Looks like it from the picture. Can't be that difficult, as the gear is plastic and the shaft is metal. But I've never done it myself.
Robert
Quoted from Ray_Ayala:I found this picture on Ed Cheung’s website.
It's really low resolution, 72 dpi. It looks kinda fuzzy when printed.
Really need something on the order of 200 dpi min.
Robert
2 weeks later
Quoted from PinballT:I am going to update the software. Is this hard to do and is it worth it?
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update
Robert
Quoted from PinballT:How long does the software download take on pinball?
Download or Update?
Robert
Quoted from Utesichiban:From the pictures, does anyone have any advice on how to best mount it without damaging the plastic or any of the game?
I'd make a thin plexi piece and attach the figure to it and then attach the plexi assembly under the lock nut.
Robert
Quoted from Utesichiban:Can you get plexiglass with a hole for the screw or do you just make your own hole?
Drill your own holes.
Robert
4 months later
Quoted from rai:I love my AFM remake but some say that MM +/- very similar to AFM.
I had both remakes for awhile, and sold the AFMr and kept MMr.
I found them similar enough that given my space available and money to tie up in a game that I didn't play that much, tipped the scale to sell the AFMr.
I thought I'd like AFM more than MM given that I grew up on Sci-Fi, but somehow the game never caught on for me.
Robert
3 months later
Quoted from SkaterVet:Does anyone know if the small nickel shaped battery on the board in the back box needs to be changed on any kind of regular basis? If so, how often is suggested?
Coin batteries last for years, I don’t replace sooner than 5 years myself.
Robert
7 months later
Quoted from PtownPin:I heard from my source at the factory its TOTAN
There’s a lot of them for sale these days.
Robert
1 week later
Quoted from imagamejunky:I've been having a consistent problem from day one with my new RE.
Nice!
Robert
1 month later
Quoted from monte_:Here is the picture where ball comes out and getting stuck.
The coil or coil assembly is probably loose.
Robert
Can someone explain to me about kit: 0711-xlcd?
Does it fit in an MMrLE with a color chip, and if so are there any other "parts " needed to make it functional?
Thanks.
Robert
Quoted from PtownPin:I would contact Planetary for details. You can basically upgrade the MMRLE with the RGB lighting, Topper, and new display/speakers. If you already have the color chip its like $1500 for all 3 items. If u don't want all three u can buy them each separately. I've been on Planetary pinballs list since announcement (like last October) and I haven't heard boo from them sense. Apparently people are already getting them in Europe, but they haven't shipped in the USA yet.
Pat,
Thanks for the explanation.
Bob
1 year later
My first part issue... switch 32, trough LED.
I assume that this refers to the LED2 location on the trough boards; is that correct?
Robert
Thanks, I figured out the opto number when I looked at the board closely... it's printed on the opposite side of the board.
I have taken out both and cleaned the sender and the receiver as well as the connectors.
The issue still was there. Then I took the dog for a walk.
When I got home I tried the switch edge test, and all of the switches in the trough worked.
So I tried the "slap the side of the game" test and switch 32 would momentarily close with no balls and stay closed with a ball in the trough.
So I guess there is an issue with perhaps a solder joint, connector pin/wire or the emitter/receiver.
Robert
Quoted from MrSanRamon:So I guess there is an issue with perhaps a solder joint, connector pin/wire or the emitter/receiver.
It appears to be a broken wire between the receiver board and the TR opto connector.
I'll need to get out my schematic.
Robert
Quoted from MrSanRamon:It appears to be a broken wire between the receiver board and the TR opto connector.
It's actually a wire that has pulled out of the TR opto connector.
Unfortunately I can't find a pin extractor for that size, I guess I'll have to buy one. Does anyone know what size I need?
Robert
Quoted from northvibe:YOu have a pic? I haven't opened my MMr up today but need to at some point.
Still can't find my extractors... might have to buy a new one. I forget how expensive nice ones are!
Robert
Quoted from northvibe:You could also take a pick or tiny flat head to the rear to push that back clip down and slide out.
That's what I did. I tried that yesterday and thought I might break the connector, so I stopped. But today I got it out.
So the game is fixed, no credit dot.
Robert
After playing a few games, the ball got stuck again behind the gate on the Jump the Moat and Break Through the Castle Wall shot.
This has happened several times and I'm checking to see if others have had this issue and if so what they did to mitigate it.
For me if the shot is solid, the ball will jump back over the return hole access and rest against the castle gate flap. No amount of shaking or ball searching will dislodge it.
The gate seams to rotate a little bit to far back, trapping the ball. Maybe there is a fix that doesn't allow this.
Robert
1 month later
Quoted from justyn:Software version or is there something else? I just updated from the Chicago Gaming website to V3.0.0 but it didn't fix it. Sound Rev 1.0 (I haven't seen any updates to that).
Is sound turned off in settings or turned down with the door buttons?
Robert
11 months later
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, Fluke is my go-to brand. But for the level of 99% of pinball diagnostic, if a person is on a budget and can't get the 117 with the TL175E test leads, I'd recommend a decent Chinese one with a backlight over a Fluke without. But the Fluke 117 is the #1 recommendation. It will be the last multimeter you buy.
I have both a digital VOM (I think I got at Sears) and an analog VOM I got at Radio Shack (about 40 years ago).
In most cases I prefer the analog meter, though self-ranging is great in the digital meter if you have no idea what the voltage might be.
Robert
1 month later
Quoted from pghpinfan:I am on the list for the next re-run of these but I already have an Attack from Mars which we really love! Are the games/layouts too similar? Anybody have both and do they both get played ? Appreciate any thoughts
I have an MMr and had an AFMr. I thought that they were similar enough that with my limited space I’d sell the AFMr. If I had more space I’d probably have kept it.
Robert
4 months later
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Saint John, NB
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider MrSanRamon.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
