If interested, new merlin mod. Listed in the market. Fits perfectly in front of Castle and just behind merlin sign.
If interested, new merlin mod. Listed in the market. Fits perfectly in front of Castle and just behind merlin sign.
Joined by the club today...its an LE. Playfield protector, color chip, titan rubber everywhere, lighted star posts. Its a distributor game and I'm told it has some special animations that arent in the stock LE game. Already added a purple backboard light to it. Game is like new!
Had an issue where ball was getting stuck in the damsel drop. Added a nut under the castle top to raise it and that fixed it. Had to take ramp and wireform out...no big deal, 30 minute job. Illl get more pics up.
Quoted from dluth:
Haven't heard that one before...
Quoted from Pimp77:
Yeah, I'd be surprised if true.
It's true, sort of. It's not the animations that are different, but the colorization in some scenes that only distributors receive in their games. I think what I have is a demo game, but it's barely been touched and is only about 3 months old. I have no way to compare it to a stock game to say if the colorization is better or worse.
I didn't Install one, but my game came with one. I like it but don't have a good point of comparison. My game plays very fast.
Quoted from FlippyD:
Yeah it doesn't fit with the playfield story but I imagine it looks more badass than putting a peasant figure on the left side. If the owner likes it than that's what counts!
Yep, just looks cool to me, maybe to others, maybe not...to each his own.
...or, I suppose I could replace my stock dragon with this lit one, which definitely looks better to me.
Quoted from SuperPinball:
I put in Kicker 43DSC504 DS in the backbox and installed a Polk Audio PSW10 10" sub external sub. Sounds crisper and with deeper base especially when you hit the castle. Very easy installation too. I decided to replace the speakers on all my Bally/Williams as well.
Are these a direct replacement or did you have to modify your mount and/or wiring?
Quoted from per3per3:
For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time
For #2 here's what happening: the ball drops down, the divertor open (retracts down below the playfield, and ball doesn't eject until you sit there long enough for the game to do it's "I don't know where the ball is" dance and it then ejects no problem. This makes me believe it's not the divertor post
I had this exact issue.inside the damsel castle, there is a lip the ball gets stuck on. Unfortunately, you need to remove the right ramp, remove the screw on the top of the castle, slide a #8 nut underneath the screw so as to raise the castle a bit. This allows the ball to drop down more rather than get stuck on the lip. If I were designing the game, that lip would be gone. When you remove the ramp, put your finger in there and you'll feel it.
Quoted from per3per3:
For #1, unfortunately I've tried everything that I can think of and can't get the stupid switch to register reliably. I switch the switch's position on the switch housing to to the closer setting, I experimented with bending the wire to make it more sensitive (to expose more above the playfield), and I confirmed that the switch housing is securely screwed in and tight. Basically, when the ball flys by the switch more quickly it just won't register. I submitted a support ticket to hopefully get a new switch.
For #2 I spoke with Rob (lermods) and can confirm that it's the same issue he experienced. The ball is just barely getting hung up and if the castle was lifted just a bit (per his suggestion) then it would fix it. I think I can execute the fix if I could only remove the clear plastic piece that sits above the damsel tower. The problem is that it seems really difficult to do without removing tbe ramp: the plastic is held on by 3 flathead screws that are secured to a nut at the bottom and those are really tough to reach. I was really hoping to not have to remove the right ramp.
Taking the right ramp off isn't that bad. One nut by the inlane, four screws at ramp entrance, one nut under the dragons left wing and one nut on a long post back left. That's it. Undo all that, slide ramp to the left and you have access to the damsel castle screw. Not more than 30 minutes tops.
My outlanes are factory, no particular issues with outlane drains, seems normal. I go after the castle when i mb and the ball save running.
6.5 degrees, I did not have to adjust it from the factory. Download an app and use your phone to level it, from the playfield, not the glass.
Quoted from Damien:
Have a question for all you owners. When the ball ejects from the left side of the castle (say after entering the moat) and it comes down the left side, does your ball go directly down to the left flipper, or does it occasionally hit the left slingshot?
When I first set up the game, I'm positive it was coming straight down. But now that I've adjusted the slant to 6.5 degrees, it seems to be inconsistent.
Just curious... Thanks
Mine always comes down to left flipper.
I think my LE was one of the last off the line and it has a date of July 2016 and is 967/1000.
It is possible. You won't blow anything unless you don't install it correctly. If you don't install it correctly, at a minimum, you will blow a fuse, but potentially the transistor or worse.
Quoted from KozMckPinball:
Not sure what your comment is telling me. It should be possible to put in a short LED strip tied to the flasher without blowing something like the transistor mentioned?
Thanks Rock, yes we do have a lot of mods for MM amd MMR. we tend to use alligator clips for many of our mods for simplicity, and never had any issues with this, very reliable, they don't fall off, etc. It's a good thing to want to learn about your game and try to make your own modifications, and pinside can be very helpful in this regard, but at some point you also have to realize what your own limitations are and that it may be better to purchase a mod that has been tested rather than risk blowing up your game. Spending $100 on a cool mod is better than having to replace your board and the countless hours and frustration trying to diagnose it. I am not trying to discourage anyone from digging into their games, in fact, I would encourage everyone to understand how their games work, but be sensible about it.
Quoted from kapsreiter:
Merlin hole to powerful
Sometimes the ball hits the right ramp and jumps back in the hole
looks like the kickoff has to much power and may be not good for the plastic ramp
any ideas how to adjust this case?
Maybe the coil bracket needs to be adjusted to eject at a lower angle. Check that its secure, and consider adding a washer or two under the bracket to change the kickout angle.
those "lightning" effects tied to pops work well on other games like IM and MET. I haven't tried it on my MMR yet.
My current backboard version is hooked to GI because it is too dark back there and it brightens up the game and allows you to see the detail. Purple backboard with blue flasher I'd imagine would look the best.
Quoted from chrisnack:
I agree I did purple as well but mine are run by a relay and so they turn off to let the other effects work, lighting call outs etc.
Quoted from KozMckPinball:
I hafta disagree. Lots of purple plastics sides and back and pops covers are purple but the color to have here is blue. And hooked to a flasher. Looks like lightning when flashed, the blue backboard and white bolts help this affect. Fantastic when the Trolls come up, the lightning display behind the castle and the 3rd lock ball sets off a lightning show to the audible thunder.
Never seen the video mode either, two things I learned in one day...my brain is fried.
Quoted from PtownPin:
HELP Please - can someone provide me the instructions on how to adjust my flipper bats on my MMRLE? I'm a newbie so would love a little advice before I break out my tools.....my flipper bat angles are too low
You just need to loosen the nut the shaft goes through, loosen just enough so you can adjust the bat by hand, then retighten.
Check your interlock switch. Coin door may not be pushing it closed enough to provide power. Just had this issue on my afmr.
You can push in the switch and then go into test mode and see if they will fire.
Edit: looks like ltg responded a few seconds apart. Great minds think alike
I have had a protector on my game from day 1, came with game, the one from Germany. No issues at all and knowing that when/if I ever decide to pull it I’ll basically have a brand new play field is pretty nice.
Quoted from BigMorty:
Thanks LTG for the link. lermods, I’d th protector you have different than the one on the link LTG put above?
I have Cliffys coming also, did not know I needed both them and Mantis!
Can I play a few dozen games before installing all this, not sure I can wait
I don't know specifically where it came from only that it is the version from the German company. Don't know their name offhand. Seems pretty nice to me.
The question I have is not so much the speakers, it’s the quality of sound the game puts out. Are the electronics just better on AFMr? I don’t need an upgraded cabinet sub, I have an external Polk sub to give me all the bass I need. I want better sound from the back box speakers. Again, if you have crap going into the speakers, you get crap coming out. I always thought MMr sound was good, but as soon as I got my AFMr, I realized how bad it actually is relatively speaking.
Quoted from gunstarhero:
Don't you just unplug/unsolder the old speakers and plug/solder in the new ones?
I just ordered some Pyle speakers (similar to the AFMR ones) on Scamazon and am planning to swap them upon arrival.
I just ordered the kickers for my game, $39 off eBay. Looking for a recommendation on a woofer for the cabinet, low profile so it doesn’t interfere with the trolls. I prefer not to modify the cabinet.
I’ve been told the sounds coming out of the game is designed exactly as it is in AFMr so I think replacing hardware will have a big impact.
Quoted from mamefan:
I just installed pinballpro speakers (with standard sub) in my MMR but don't notice a difference. I bought them so the voices would be more clear, but I don't think they are. I used the crimping clips that came with it instead of solder. Would that matter? The original speakers were soldered to the wires.
No, as long as you have sound coming out of them, the connections are good.
I upgraded my speakers so figured I'd add some lights. Not interactive, rgb fade effects. Ran them off the 12v source in the front of the cabinet.
Quoted from CosmoJoe:
Thanks! Purple does look nice. Your site mentions this color is best for darker applications. I assume this means arcades where the lights would be dim, basement where you play with lights low or off, etc. My pins would be in a lit area - any issue there?
It's purple/UV and I think works better in a darker application so we put that there. If you have a brighter room, blue looks very good too and is a strong color that lights the backboard well.
Quoted from Damien:
Is this light on all the time or does it flash with other lights?
Tied to gi. 15" strip.
A backboard strip will also help with glare with nice effect.
I put green spots in my game. Your leaf switches likely need adjustment or trolls aren't on good/binding.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:
Hey guys im having a problem with the pop bumper closest to the princess castle. Whenever it seems there is a strong vibration there is a chance the bumper will randomly fire. I currently have the shaker set to strong but im going to try setting it to lower and also try without it on. If not the shaker what do you think the issue might be?
Check the gap on your spoon switch. Likely needs to be opened slightly.
Quoted from marksf123:
When turn my game on, it fires up, lets me press the start button to start a new game but that is it, it does not kick a ball into the shooter lane and the flippers dont work. It does not show any errors when i go into the menu. Any thoughts?
Sounds like maybe game has lost track of the balls? Do you the right number in the trough? If you do, check shooter lane and trough switches in test mode.
Quoted from marksf123:
I checked that it did have the right number of balls in the trough. I will check it out more tomorrow. None of the coils are firing. Is there a fuse for the coils somewhere? When it goes into ball search mode only the castle door raises and lowers and I think I also hear the shaker motor.
Check your interlock switch is working. When you open the coin door does it kill power? When you close it does it restore it?
Quoted from marksf123:
If anyone is interested in the "Coat of Arms" speaker grill inserts and williams logo please post your name in the link below. We are trying to get 10 people to commit.
We also have rgb speaker lighting for mmr that I think would complement these...
Anyone have a feature matrix comparing the le to the standard? Or anyone know the main differences?
Quoted from evh347:
Can anyone confirm if the underside components on the newly produced MMr is identical to the machines produced originally when Stern was making them?
I’m on the wait list for the upcoming run (June/July) and I’m wondering if the GI is the same as the original MMr, like the AFMr, or like the components on MBr. There have been subtle changes in how the GI was wired from machine to machine from what I can tell (owning AFMr and MBr).
I have some Lermods in my possession and I’m getting the feeling I bought the wrong version of the backboard and trough lighting mods. I’d like to see a closeup of the MMr GI socket and I’m wondering if CGC has made any updates to the circuitry under the playfield.
Also, can anyone post a pic of how they connected their Lermod backboard and trough lighting mod on their MMr?
Depends on which version you bought, can't tell by your pinside name. If you bought alligator clip version, you attach to the socket lugs, this is different than mbr and afmr, which don't have sockets and only have light boards or lights that are hard wired.
If you bought a bulb connection, you can replace the bulb in the socket with the one we supply. I don't think cgc changed anything over time, but I guess it's possible. My mmr Le has gi sockets, not light boards.
If when you get your game, what you have doesn't work, you can always exchange it.
Quoted from Utesichiban:
Question for the group here. The top switch on the left ramp (peasant ramp) of my MMR has stopped registering when the ball passes through (the left lower ramp switch does register when the ball enters the ramp, however). I can't get it to work manually either.
I checked the connections and the J5 connector into the board beneath the PF and it doesn't appear anything is disconnected. The J5 connector is where the upper left ramp switches connects, right?
Any insight or advice on where the problem may be? The ball was hitting the switch sometimes when it went through the ramp as it was too low before I adjusted it. Wondering if it could be related to that.
Any insight is very appreciated (picture of switch I'm referencing attached).
Do you have a meter to test for voltage at the switch?
Quoted from GreenMachine19:
PPS just sent me an email to buy all the upgrades for 1499.97. I will not be doing this after all and replied to cancel my name off the list. Just can’t justify it aka convince my wife to splurge the cost of another game for these upgrades. Still taking heat over the color upgrade lol.
I did the same thing. They are nice upgrades, but man they are pricey. I thought I’d get credit for having the color upgrade already, but seems the prices quoted are with the color upgrade already in the game. I can’t justify it even though i love what they did in mbR and AFMr. I’d be at almost $10k on my mmr compared to about 7 for my AFMr and mbR se.
I play my mbR more than than my mmr. I find mmr to be easier and have much longer game times. If I had to choose, I’d probably keep mbr, but I don’t so I’m keeping both.
Quoted from Tlamb:
Guessing it should be the same but yes, was hoping he would chime in or update his page to include the new MMr options.
Quoted from f3honda4me:
I would check with lermods first, I was actually just talking to him about this yesterday.
Quoted from Tlamb:
Starting to pick up some mods for my MMrSE. I am guessing the RGB trough light from MB should work the same for MMrSE?
Same for the undercabinet?
Any other MUST have mods? Would like some cool plastic protectors put the florescent green on my MB and they look awesome with the black light effect from the colored GI.
I believe our interactive undercab and rgb trough lights will work with the new version of mmr. But before I start selling these, I want be sure I don’t blow up anyone’s game. F3honda will be testing for me and he should have the mods early next week. Better to blow up his game than everyone else’s.
I’ll report back next week when they are available. Our other mods, like Merlin, archer, catapult and dragon I don’t believe will work in their current configuration as there are no light sockets. I need to investigate further and check the wiring schematic.
Quoted from f3honda4me:
Here's some pics with a couple great mods from LERMODS. Looks awesome, and the undercab lighting is really just perfect on this pin. It is interactive and matches what the speaker lights are doing for color and intensity, and it really adds something special to an already special pin! The trough light is also interactive with the GI lighting.
Excellent stuff lermods and was easy to install both mods using existing connectors inside the pin, took about 10 minutes.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Yep, we are ready to sell them now as they’ve been test fitted and work as they do on MBR. Thanks to F3honda for testing, we didn’t blow up his game. Available on our website and will be in our pinside shop tomorrow.
Quoted from Tlamb:
I see Lermods has them up already! Sweet. Just put in my order.
Saw your order come in, a little backed up so give me a couple days to get it out. And thank you!
Thanks, I saw it come across. I am hoping to get all the orders out by Saturday. Sorry for the delay, but we’ve had a hard time catching up. I want it in Saturday’s mail because Monday is a holiday. You will all receive tracking info when it ships.
Quoted from Quint_of_Dust:
Put down a sizable deposit in April, 2019.
She arrived today!
What a great game. It's the SE. Working out of the box. Minor tweaks. A buzzing speaker. Nothing major.
Beautiful and SO fun.
The larger, color monitor is terrific. The sound is great. The sub woofer feels like a mini shaker.
Very pleased.[quoted image]
Are your speaker lights working?
Quoted from evh347:
PM them. I sent my mods back to Rob for retrofitting. Lermods gives great customer service! I have all their MMr mods.
When I got them back, he had installed new connectors that connect all four of their mods to the game’s power supply terminal.
If you have the blue dragon, the dragon will not work as those are 6v bulbs. The Merlin, catapult and Archer should work, but they will need to be retrofitted.
NOTE: the picture is from a different product, but you get the idea.
With the new wiring, they now all tap here...
Yep, if you buy from our site, we give the option to choose the game, including the new versions. We’ve alerted our partner resellers to provide this option, but some have not done it yet. All of our mods will work on the new versions of the game, we just need to know which version of the game you have. If you think you have the wrong connections, just email us, we are providing the new connections for free.
Quoted from PWhiz:
I ended up doing the troll mod myself. You can buy a set from Pinwize like I did, but they ended up not working, even though I was told they are MMr compatible. When I connected them to the troll coil, it blew out the LEDs. It could have been a fluke, but I chalked it up to the coils in the MMr may be a slightly higher voltage than the originals. I bought my own parts to make the mod, which included 3.6K/2W resistors. Took a little doing, but extremely happy with how they turned out. I got a lot of mods, but these are one of my favorites.[quoted image]
I’m curious, why hook to the coils for the troll eyes? Why not just hook to gi and have them always lit? You can’t see the lights when they are down and they’ll be lit when they pop up. Seems pinwize made them overly complicated. You can also use prewired leds.
Quoted from Ripshill:
Question for everyone. I turned on my MMr this morning and all my high scores were wiped and they went back to default. I am assuming that the battery needs to replaced. Am I right in my assumption? Thanks in advance for anyone providing aid on this.
How many plays on your game? If your game is still set on free play, but scores reset, battery is good. Scores reset after a certain number of games, maybe 2000. It’s in the settings.
Quoted from imagamejunky:
Looks great! I see your sub. Did you connect it with a sub out kit (like Sterns and a pinnovator's kit) or can you connect directly from a factory audio out jack on a board (like you can on JJPs)? This will be my first CGC.
I had been using alligator clips from the cabinet speaker to the sub on all my games and then I tried the pinnovators kit and I feel the bass is much cleaner and crisper. I also use their mixer to allow hook up of four games to one sub and it also allows for individual game volume control for bass effects. Nice products they have. I am not affiliated with them in any way, just like their stuff.
And glad you like the undercab lights, we appreciate the business.
Quoted from WackyBrakke:
Anyone else having an issue with their right flipper? Every 10 presses or so and it thinks I pressed it twice. Messes me up setting the lane lights where I want them. Emailed support but they must be closed, no word from them in 2 weeks. My big beautiful screen is broken, no word from them on that either.
Maybe check the gaps on your flipper leaf switches, might be just a hair too close causing the double flip.
You can't hook anything to the GI in mmre or se, they are RGB. We are able to wire an interactive RGB trough light by tapping off the RGB, but you can't do the mod he is offering via the GI. As someone else stated, you'll need to go off the power supply.
I can do a single color scoop light for like $20 shipped. I could also do an RGB scoop light interactive with the GI for about $35.
Quoted from Mahoneyj:
Could you do a white interactive light that goes behind the Merlin plastic and lights when the Merlins Magic star lights on the playfield? I think it would be way cooler if the Merlin plastic itself lit when you could shoot the hole for the Merlins Magic. That would be a great mod for $25 or $35 if possible.
making things interactive on MMR games is not so easy because everything is on that single big board under the playfield. It's not like modding an original, which is simple. if I were to do something like that it would not be anywhere close $25-35 and would require a relay board with a light sensor. Sorry.
I have been getting a lot of inquiries about the merlin RGB hole light, never thought people would want that since it's mre of a hole and not a traditional scoop like on mb or afm. This would be identical to our RGB trough light, which is interactive with the GI. When the GI turns red, the led strip turn red, when GI turns blue, led strip turns blue, etc. It is a plug and play mod. You unplug one of the RGB GI connectors in the back of the game and plug in the mod. I haven't done it on my game as I don't want a light there, but you would just need to mount the led strip under the playfield so that the lights can be seen through the scoop.
Quoted from Westsiderkg:
Here are a few pics of the merlin scoop mod....I like it. Only thought would be to add a little more lighting, maybe 2 more on each side at 90 degrees off the main bracket so the hole gets a little more light. Otherwise neat, tks lermods and if you ever add more lights let us know!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thx. Hard to see in your pics, but glad it works. We have been working with someone on troll lights. Not for the eyes, but to light them green when they pop up. Just need to work on the bracket to hold the leds in and it should be ready. If there is interest in this, let me know.
Was able to light up the trolls. The LEDs are lit all the time but don't bleed through. If there is interest in this mod, please let me know. $40 shipped in the US. Works on all versions of the game. We made custom brackets to attach to the troll bracket and will include 3/4” screws as the stock ones will be too short. I'll stick it on my website and pinside shop tomorrow.
Not sure what happened, but it’s on our site now. Going to get it in our pinside shop too today.
Quoted from default_user:
Hey, we received the Troll lights and love the effect when the trolls are up.
However, there is a little bit of light bleed through the table since the lights are always on. (The 1st photo below is MUCH worse than the eye can see due to the iPhone's camera over-compensating in low light.) It's much less pronounced during gameplay but it's still subtly there a bit, particularly in the Patron of the Peasants. (2nd photo) I used a bit of electrical tape to try to mask around the troll cutouts, and it helped, but it's not quite eliminated.
Do you, or others, have any further suggestions? And yes, it's something that can be lived with but it's an OCD issue. [quoted image][quoted image]
I have noticed very slight bleed on the trolls insert, mainly just the top 1/3 of the insert, but barely noticeable on my game. Ive never seen it like that on the first pic you show. Try to position the brackets as close as you can to the trolls, and electrical tape along the Edge of the board to block off that gap So light can’t get under it would likely eliminate it.
So, a couple of people contacted me about some light bleed on the trolls and other surrounding inserts, including a post above in this thread.
The solution is to ensure that light cannot get under the board. Weatherstripping works perfectly. Put a little bit around wherever you see any light bleed and it will be gone..see pic. I shot a video and you can see I have no bleed doing this.
Easy and cheap 2 min fix. I will note this in the instructions and begin to include some weatherstripping with the mod.
Appreciate those who flagged it, feedback is always appreciated.
Quoted from smallstocks:
Twice I have triggered Damsel Madness by shooting the ball up the right ramp and twice the ball has become lost. Both times the ball could not be found despite many attempts by the machine. Now it won't even let me restart the game. There is also a check switch 58 warning. What to do?
Quoted from LTG:
#58 is tower exit. Sounds like the ball is sticking in there. You'll have to figure out where the ball is stuck inside the tower.
LTG : )
I’ve had this issue, ball was getting stuck on a lip inside the Damsel castle. I had to file it back and haven’t had an issue since. I may have detailed it in this thread somewhere back several years.
wow, this is the kind of connection that is being provided...loose hanging alligator clips attached to back-stabbed connectors? that's not good and is a recipe for disaster. Ive seen this set up now a couple of times with pinstadium, they really should find a better way of making connections for a $300 mod. Why can't they just make two connectors, one piggybacking off the game and the other coming off their lights?
Quoted from jetmechinnc:
Here are some pics of the connections one to the GI light at the pop bumper, the other is backpinned with the provided jumper wires to the flasher connector at the back left of the playfield. One is going to the yellow wire,
One to the blue per the instructions on their website. Here is also a little better picture of the light rails installed. Hope this helps.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from AncasterStan:
Just joined the club with my MMrLE... it's a wonderful trip down memory lane to when I was much younger...
The only issue I am experiencing is the right troll does not pop up when Troll Mode starts...the only time it popped up was when a ball was stuck and the machine did its ball locating cycle. Error message pops up upon startup indicating a switch issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...[quoted image][quoted image]
there is a switch alongside each troll. take a look at it and make sure there are no broken wires and that the switch activates in switch test mode. if that switch isn't working, the game may think the troll is already up.
Quoted from medic7000:
Has anyone installed the lighted troll mod that illuminates them from the bottom? I looked into the lighted eyes but they appear to be sold out and saw the other version. Are you happy with them and was it an easy install? I also see another mod with a troll figurine that holds a stick and eyes light up that stands in front of the castle and was wondering if anyone installed that as well. TIA
you mean these that we sell? Plenty on pinside have bought them so someone should be able to chime in with unbiased feedback. they work great on my game.
Quoted from Mahoneyj:
I installed the Lermods green troll lights. They are great. Love the green troll lights when they pop up. Easy install.
There is some light bleed into the Patron of Peasants and Troll inserts from the lights being always on. That can be fixed by inserting some foam weatherstripping along the boards to block the light. I think Lermods is including this in the kit now.
Yes, we include the weatherstripping now.
Quoted from Highscoresaves:
Is there a pic of the weather stripping installation somewhere?
See pic for an example of how you block of the light from bleeding through, very simple install.
Quoted from KingBW:
Chris from Rock Custom Pinball came over this afternoon to help me turn one of his under cabinet light kits into a interactive lighting kit that matches the color for the interactive playfield/speaker lights on the Royal Edition. This would work on other models with the CGC interactive light kit and color chip. Contact him if interested. It looks fantastic when someone is playing the game. Not "flashy", matches the 2-3 second light color changes with shots as in the game or during mutiball modes. More than just the 3 colors of Red or Blue or Green. I had to film the attract mode with the room lights on. With the lights off the phone camera really exaggerates the brightness of the LED lights. Family approves. It was extremely nice of Chris to come over and figure this out with me and make one up on-the-spot.
We offer the same mod, plug and play...makes a big difference if you like that sort of thing. Works for AFMr and mbR.
Some people have asked me about making a flasher mod for the backboard to simulate lightning effects. I finally got around to making one for my game. The effects are most visible when multiball starts and you hear the thunder and see the lightning on the screen. It’s an easy solder job to the flasher light board on the back panel. If anyone wants one, we will have them on our website and pinside shop later today. It’s just $15 shipped and will include a 15” led strip and two leads to solder to the board. I can offer it in red, blue, purple, white and green, purple would be the best imo.
Short vid with purple flasher and a white backboard light.
Quoted from MasterTinkerer:
Odd-ball question... I’m going to pick up my MMR RE this weekend. How big is the machine with the back folded?
The reason I ask... I just picked up a Black Knight SoR machine. It BARELY fit in my SUV. if the MMR is 2” bigger, it won’t fit.
I’d rather figure this out now than this weekend when I’m standing at a freight company in ATL.
The shipping company has it in Atlanta as of today, but it’s not scheduled to be delivered to me until 2/16. I can’t wait that long knowing that it’s only 2.5 hours away!!
I believe you need about 29-3/4" of height clearance, smaller than a stern game, which needs 30-3/4". So if your BK fit, the MMR should fit. It's the same size as a typical BW game from that era.
Quoted from phishrace:
I fixed one where the tower had excess plastic inside that the ball hung up on. Trimmed the plastic with an xacto knife and that fixed it. It's been a while, but it seems like I could reach a finger in from the top and feel the ball. Got hung up before it even got to the switch. You could also feel the excess plastic 'ledge' once the ball was pushed through.
Had this exact same issue (and fix). Ball was not dropping all the way down.
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