While changing over to white rubber I forgot where this plastic goes.
20160812_161908_(resized).jpg

Somewhere near the dragon I think, just don't remember

Thanks Lloyd that also explains why I was short a washer. My mystery plastic instead of a washer on top.

Going to update mine to the new software should I pull fuse f4 1st?

That fuse seems to blow during the update. Pull fuse.
Update.
Put fuse back.
Profit 1 fuse.

Edit: I wonder if leaving the coin door open would accomplish the same thing?

Had problems with the catapult.
The mech was good and tight and not binding.
Ramp is aligned.
Default and +1 barley spill out to the playfield
+2 makes it back to the peasant ramp
Had to set to max to go around like it should.

Well I can't report it as happened. But since no goodie bag with a spare fuse. I acted preemptively. Just in case

Link to video:

Not sure what I could move on the ramp to change things, there's not much adjustment at the lower section of the wireform.
The mech moves fine when I operate it by hand, nothing sticky or rubbing, the ramp seems to be in the right location.
Just acts like the coil doesn't have enough juice.

+2 sometimes makes it, Max works all the time.
It shouldn't hurt anything to leave at max right?

Thoughts?

Yeah there is a cliffy but I can see that nothing is touching.

Also I have set the moat popper to min. It was too powerful maybe the coil got swapped with the catapult during assembly

I'll snap that pic tomorrow morning. There are quite a few things to do to remove the cliffy, plus it has adhesive at the top of the small end.

Here's a pic I took while installing it, you can see there should be nothing touching the cliffy.
The catapult arm is centered in the playfield hole, and the cliffy is slightly outside of that.
20160811_200128_(resized).jpg

Improved MMR rubber list and chart.
I found a lot of conflicting info about the rubber list or the lack of one for MM. I put this together hopefully it helps others.
Nothing I found online what 100% right, resulting in some substitutions I did. They work, but I noted my changes from the stock I pulled off.

MMR_Rubber_(resized).PNG

I like filing out the outlane posts with 3/8 on the top slot, and putting mini posts everywhere there is spot for them hence the 13 instead of 2 for the 7/16OD Not 100% sure about all the locations but they should be close... missing a few H's and the E and F could be the other way around. If you order all of the non(*) rings it will match the stock rings I removed.

The smaller outlane subs 1 1/2 for 2 and 1 for 1 1/4 are tight but work ok unless you narrow the outlane gaps.

Hopefully my notation makes sense.

That may be true, but it works 100% fine as I have it with the cliffy installed. It doesn't hit the wireform early like at the other strength settings.
It it going to break the game to leave the catapult strength at max?
If not, why wouldn't I leave it max and not take all of that stuff apart again.

It moves fine, and does not bind or touch anything at all.

Believe it or not I didn't even play my game once without the cliffys and white rubber. But I am reasonably sure I have things put together right. It works great when the coil gets the power it needs, everything is lined up. If I had something crooked it would still miss or bang around even at high power.

I'll try this next time I have the game open, having too much fun playing right now.

On a side note I'll be moving up to Shawnee in a month and see myself playing at your locations frequently. Been to Pizza West 2 times already just visiting the area.
Good to have a top notch operator nearby if I ever need some hands on help with my MMR or other games.

You for sure want your machine to be side to side level and pitched 6.5 or whatever you prefer. Don't try to fix undesired ball behavior with changing the side to side level.

For the ball hitting the top of the left sling problem I bent the metal ball guide a little bit, not the wireforms.
Bend here in the area orange circle just a bit toward the center of the playfield, you will have to take the plastic and wire ramp off to get at it.
image-10 (resized).jpg
You want the bottom to move *Slightly* away from the post rubber, but not enough that a ball could hit the edge of the metal ball guide straight on.

I am also having date/time problems. Got the credit dot, but a new battery fixed that.

Now the game just seems to lose time but not the entire date, so the credit dot for date not set isn't happening anymore. BUT that said this thing is no Timex for sure. Its like the clock is only running when the game is turned on or something.

Maybe they got their board design from the TWZ camera. Wait I won BftK 3 days from now??!! Seems like it was yesterday.