I don't know what's more depressing, the slow progress or absolutely no visibility on when the pin might ship.
I was supposed to get my MMR in April/May and still waiting for any info on where I might be in the line or when it might actually ship. Of course no communication, so I feel everyone's frustration. If there was an easy way to bail out, I'd probably do that

^ Awesomesauce, thanks SuperPinball for posting the video. That looks great!!!

Just checking, does anyone know if the GI bulbs are niftyled's superbright frosted warm whites or non-ghosting frosted warm whites?

I have one out (straight out of the box) and need to get a replacement LED for it

Thanks,
-K

I posted this in another MMR thread but this seems to be more active so thought posting again

Has anyone installed flipper button/cabinet protectors, the transparent kind that does not ruin the decal and can be peeled off?
Any recommendations, I only saw ones for Stern but not sure if they'll work
Thanks,
-K

My backbox key was hanging inside the coin door, take another look there

In my MMR the gap between the playfield and the cabinet is very tight, do you have enough space for mirror blades?

So for us lazy people, which setting controls the video mode?

How's the level bubble on your MMR? I was trying to level the pin using that, but when I had the bubble in the center the pitch was >9 degrees. If I bring the pitch to about 6.5-7 degrees the bubble is all the way to the bottom of the level, is there a way to adjust that or is it waste of time?

I have that same issue, and have not yet been able to figure out how to fix it. I saw a reference in another thread that maybe ever so slightly bending the ball guide might help but I guess the risk is if you bend it too much then those balls that come down faster would get diverted towards center drain.

If you figure the best way to fix this out, let me know

They had 3 MMR at TPF, none of which had the color display. I missed the CGC seminar, was anything mentioned there?

Do you get one automatically or do you need to collect one in trolls first?

I have that same issue (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-laseriffic-mm-topper-pic-vid/page/3#post-2875149). Couldn't get it fixed, somehow when the light pulses it causes feedback on the speakers. I changed it to constant light and the hum went away. If you find a fix let me know

I used some double sided tape under it to make sure it stays put

I got the email, if all goes well it should be arriving on Tuesday!

Go into Adjustments ( A1.28 I think ) minimum volume override. Change that and you can go lower than 8

I believe there's no option, you have to disconnect the wires to the knocker. It's loud, so I added a piece of foam to the area the knocker hits and it dampened the effect dramatically but it's still loud enough to be satisfying. I'd try that if the loudness of the knocker is your issue.

Does anyone have any tips on easy removal of the apron? Can't seem to easily loosen the nut on the right keeping it in place, I'm pretty sure I'm missing something obvious here...

Left outlane drain seems more dangerous than the right one, at least that's how it feels (should check the stats, I guess). But other than that, I don't think it's a total drain monster. Anyhow, that's part of the challenge, love my MMR!
Oh, I don't think my average score is much more than 10-20 million and there definitely are lots of games with quite low scores but many in the 40-50M range too. Score variety is nice, wouldn't want to always get close to the GC score...

Have you done a switch test right after turning it on?

I believe Dan Forden, who did the sounds for Mortal Kombat also did the sound on MM and incorporated a few sound bites from MK. I'm not 100% sure what the logic is, but it seems to be related to consecutive shots up the damsel ramp.

It should, there's a battery on the board and it may be bad. Try to change it first

Has anyone had issues with the game starting to pump balls into the field as if it was multiball but without triggering one? That happened last night as I was playing, I'm suspecting the ball through opto board but haven't had a chance to look into it yet.

Mine was rattling when the playfield glass was not fully pushed in, could it be that?

You can adjust in settings how many times you need to spell F-I-R-E to activate video mode, bring it down by a few and it should be doable. The factory setting is quite hard to reach, and remember you have a bomb to use

The flipper travel on my MMR feels short, I think others have reported the same. Do AI need a shorter coil stop or is it the plunger shaft that needs to be changed?

I've used the adjustment holes but also tried to keep them in-line with the lane guides. It's hard to catch and even cradle the ball if it travels fast as the flippers don't seem to travel far enough (compared to other pins I have)

If you are handy and have some extra time, you could do something like this

I had the same issue and it turned out the glass was not pushed all the way in. Check that before trying the anti rattle tape

Please don't try to work under the playfield with the power on, chances are you'll accidentally short something and then you'll have a bigger problem to deal with. Btw, when I moved my posts they were somewhat stuck in clear coat but eventually moved after jiggling them a bit.

I'd clean (Novus 1 should suffice) and wax the playfield. If the castle drawbridge doesn't register always you might want to clean the opto's with a q-tip. I've seen the same issue with sometimes the castle blowing up when shooting the castle multiball gate but I believe it might be a SW bug (also in the original I believe) but could be wrong

See page 21 of this thread, post 1041 onwards on how to get access to the leaf switch the easy way. Use the leaf switch adjustment tool if you have one, makes it pretty easy to adjust

If it works in the switch test, it’s probably fine. It’s a tough switch to hit, and if the machine doesn’t record hits in some amount of games it assumes it’s faulty so it may just be a false positive. The credit dot should in that case go away if you hit the switch while playing

It is possible, likely even, that the switch itself is broken (happens all the time in pinball). First thing to do is to see if it registers in switch test, it should also click as you trigger it. You can also test it with a multimeter - One lead on the Com lug on the switch and other lead on the N/O lug on the switch. This should read OL and then read 0 when you close the switch. If needed, you can test the diode with DMM in diode/continuity. Leads across the diode in one direction and you'll get .5-.7 volts and when reversed you'll get OL.

The development has been a possibly definitely maybe for a long time, see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-any-new-info-on-mmr-xl-display-options

Sorry if I missed this, but how does the RGB GI work? Is it somehow interactive where colors change with the display or are the colors just adjustable?
Any info on the pricing for the various kits?