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LMFAO......forever captured in stupidity (just tried to delete my post!)!!
Yes, I took a third look. This time with a flashlight....found it tucked away in behind. Curious though....only one key.
Although I love my MMR black trim, I pretty well knew from the get go, once I received it I was going to swap out the trim for my Chestnut brass plated trim I bought for a TOM I owned a year and a half ago. This brass sat in a box, bubble wrapped until today when I finally got around to trying my hand at doing this myself. Overall, not an overly difficult process!
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Ya really gotta wonder why CGC would have shown video of it what...........about 6 months ago now. Only reason I can think of is those that were getting sick and tired of waiting for their MMR would be further encouraged to keep their order knowing that this was coming. Now we are getting sick and tired of waiting for the update!!
Having some major issues with my MMRLE that I hope some of you folks may be able to help me with. Issue started with the ball not launching when I pressed the launch button. Reboot, worked for a bit, then stopped working. In solenoid tests, launch button, ball trough, right and left sling wouldn't respond. Did a bit of reading on this thread, started looking for a blown fuse on the solenoid boards (not sure which board controls the trough etc so I checked all the boards). Pulled all fuses, tested, all were fine. Then I looked at the fuses in the box in the cabinet (beside the coin box), and saw that the 4A was blown.
I live in a small town, so all I could readily find was a 5A SB. Before I replaced the 4A with the 5A, I checked with a tech buddy and he said this would be fine as long as the machine wasn't being played for a long duration. Had a few buddies over Saturday night, got three balls in, (so after about 8 minutes of play), slings stopped working, launch and trough as well. Checked the fuse, blown again.
Any suggestions/recommendations? Thanks in advance.
Quoted from LTG:New fuse. Check coil lugs for ball launch coil, might be shorting to metal.
Get correct fuses.
LTG : )
Thanks @ltg Got some 4A fuses today, put in the machine, turned it on. Started a game, no ball eject from the trough. Went into test menu, same results as above, same four coils won't fire. Turned off the machine, pulled the 4A fuse, fuse is still good. Coil lugs are nowhere near touching any metal, and they are also covered with rubber, so I think I'm good there.
Anyway, put the fuse back in, tried again (I've had gremlins in machines before!), but exact same results. Did a visual inspection of all fuses again, none looked burnt.
The latest; Pulled all fuses, all check out fine. Put them all back, turn on the pin and noticed that on the individual solenoid boards, there is a LED that lights up that shows fuses are good. Get excited, lower the playfield, go into test mode, still not working. But now the problem is compounded by the fact that now, with the exception of the right and left gate, no solonoids are working now. Also, all the LEDs for the fuses are out. Pull them all again, they all test fine.
Also want to mention, for both left and right Troll power, the shaker goes off but very weakly. When testing the castle and catapult, shaker goes off at what seems to be regular strength.
Final thing I noticed as well, the CR4 stat LED is flashing quickly. Caught my eye because nothing else was flashing that quickly and thought maybe this might be indicating a problem?
In closing, also forgot to mention at the onset, there are no error reported when I turn on the pin.
Quoted from LTG:Inside the metal box with the plastic cover over the on/off switch - see if the LED for fuse F1 is on. You probably lost the 50 volt fuse.
Gates are low power and not effected by high power fuse or high power interlock switch on the coin door.
LTG : )
Checked the fuse. One end was in securely, other end, prongs had bent a little so wasn't making full contact. Bent the prongs closer, dropped it in, leds for fuses are now lit up and all solenoids working with the exception again of the trough, plunger, left and right sling.
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Checked the fuse. One end was in securely, other end, prongs had bent a little so wasn't making full contact. Bent the prongs closer, dropped it in, leds for fuses are now lit up and all solenoids working with the exception again of the trough, plunger, left and right sling.
I'll try swapping the board with another next.
Quoted from Bigbossfan:I'll try swapping the board with another next.
If anyone runs into the same problem I did, it indeed was the board. Swapped it out with another board that wasn't having issues, plunger, trough, left and right sling worked fine in test mode. Thanks LTG for the tips.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Please update us on board repair versus replacement.
I don't have the skill nor knowledge to repair the board. Very cheap to replace. 80 bucks from Little Shop of Games. Path of least resistance for me!
Having a major issue with my MMR. First, important to know, I've moved recently. So, pin was moved from my basement, onto a moving truck, transported about 2000 KM's, offloaded into long term storage for 7 weeks, loaded back onto a truck, offloaded, and moved into my house. So, yes, that's lots of bouncing around!
Having said this, once I had an opportunity to play a game, I turned it on, booted absolutely no problem. Played ball one and two, got to ball three, mid way through, it just went completely dead.
Fuses at F1, F2, F3, F4 checkout fine. Fuses on the solenoid boards are all good (LED's are lit up on those boards). I'm not sure if there are LEDs on the PCB, but nothing lit there, nor any of the other boards. My repair skills are novice at the best, so I don't have a clue where to begin. Any assistance sure would be appreciated. I had to downsize my collection and this is one of two I kept............HELP! LOL
Quoted from LTG:The metal box over the on/off switch area has a PCB wiith fuses, check the LEDs there.
Outlet good ? Power cord shoved into rear of the machine tight ? Try plugging something into service outlet, see if you have power that far. Then check connectors in rear of game around the transformer.
LTG : )
Not quite sure what you're talking about with the metal box. If you mean the little things you twist out, and there's fuses there, I have checked those and those are fine too. But I don't see any LED's. Unless you're talking the mesh covered one. I apologize but not clear on what you're saying. I've double check the powercord, it's fine. The power bar I have it plugged into is fine as well as I have my other pin plugged into it. And now for the grand finale....the service outlet. Unless I'm missing something, this doesn't look like an ordinary service outlet to me....not something I can plug into anyway. I also checked the connectors around the transformer, all seems to be in order. Pics attached for clarification.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:To clarify, All the lights on the playfield are dead? What about your display and backbox? You are getting power from the outlet with the LED's on your boards working.
I would start looking for connections under the playfield and in the cabinet that may have come loose. Give everything a good looking over.
Everything is dead with the exception of the few LED's on the boards that are lit. I've got nothing on the display or in the backbox. I've checked all the connectors, everything seems to be well connected. But I will have to look again obviously. Will report back.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:When you power it up, are there any chimes from the speakers? Is the game booting up just no lights. Does anything happen when you press the diagnostic buttons?
Absolutely nothing happens, other than the LED's lighting up on the previously mentioned boards. Just the F1 -F4 board, and oddly enough the solenoid boards. That is the only thing that occurs.
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Absolutely nothing happens, other than the LED's lighting up on the previously mentioned boards. Just the F1 -F4 board, and oddly enough the solenoid boards. That is the only thing that occurs.
Got it sorted out. It must have been a loose connector. Absolutley nothing looked out of place, so I just pushed all connectors to make sure they were on nice and snug, turned on the pin, works like a charm. Thanks to those who provided suggestions and guidance, much appreciated!
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Having a major issue with my MMR. First, important to know, I've moved recently. So, pin was moved from my basement, onto a moving truck, transported about 2000 KM's, offloaded into long term storage for 7 weeks, loaded back onto a truck, offloaded, and moved into my house. So, yes, that's lots of bouncing around!
Having said this, once I had an opportunity to play a game, I turned it on, booted absolutely no problem. Played ball one and two, got to ball three, mid way through, it just went completely dead.
Fuses at F1, F2, F3, F4 checkout fine. Fuses on the solenoid boards are all good (LED's are lit up on those boards). I'm not sure if there are LEDs on the PCB, but nothing lit there, nor any of the other boards. My repair skills are novice at the best, so I don't have a clue where to begin. Any assistance sure would be appreciated. I had to downsize my collection and this is one of two I kept............HELP! LOL
Good morning to all! Well, the success was short lived. MMR is dead again. However, this time around I believe I've figured out that the issue is with the shaker. Was playing again this weekend, launched into all multiballs, shaker going off like crazy as is expected, then suddenly the game just shut down again.
To save those so inclined the trouble, this is what I've been able to figure out so far.
1. Power is fine at the main box (sorry, not sure of the exact terminology).
2. Power is getting to the solenoid boards.
3. This is the second time, the pin just shuts down after launching into multiball and the shaker motor starts going.
4. Given that I was able to rectify the problem last time by unseating and reconnecting all the connectors under the playfield, I've tried that again this time, but no luck so far.
5. I'm thinking it has to be the shaker making a connector loose somewhere.
Naturally this is a pain in the ass to try and figure out. I'd like to determine which connectors I should check first, that would be the culprit for cutting out the power to get the pin going and keep it going, so that I can hot glue it on the board so this stops. Can anyone suggest which connectors I should look at first?
Hope this all makes sense, and thanks in advance for any guidance/assistance!
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Good morning to all! Well, the success was short lived. MMR is dead again. However, this time around I believe I've figured out that the issue is with the shaker. Was playing again this weekend, launched into all multiballs, shaker going off like crazy as is expected, then suddenly the game just shut down again.
To save those so inclined the trouble, this is what I've been able to figure out so far.
1. Power is fine at the main box (sorry, not sure of the exact terminology).
2. Power is getting to the solenoid boards.
3. This is the second time, the pin just shuts down after launching into multiball and the shaker motor starts going.
4. Given that I was able to rectify the problem last time by unseating and reconnecting all the connectors under the playfield, I've tried that again this time, but no luck so far.
5. I'm thinking it has to be the shaker making a connector loose somewhere.
Naturally this is a pain in the ass to try and figure out. I'd like to determine which connectors I should check first, that would be the culprit for cutting out the power to get the pin going and keep it going, so that I can hot glue it on the board so this stops. Can anyone suggest which connectors I should look at first?
Hope this all makes sense, and thanks in advance for any guidance/assistance!
In case anyone else runs into this problem, where you pin shuts down mysteriously. I guess during the move, one of the screws came loose on the power supply. I was at my wits end, took the cover off the power supply, wriggled the wires around, turned the pin on, and it came to life. Turned if off, got my screwdriver, sure enough, the screw second from the right was quite loose, I suspect, when the shaker would go off, it would lose contact, and cut the power. Anyway, my problem is solved. Hopefully it may help someone in the future.
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