Those balls sure fly around a lot. my pf is starting to look like the surface of the moon.
Quoted from SuperPinball:Those balls sure fly around a lot. my pf is starting to look like the surface of the moon.
You can't do much about it with this title. Like other games you can stand up the targets and re-enforce them, etc but the trolls will always throw the balls around.
Don't worry after a while the entire PF will get a "uniform" shiny orange peel surface. You're just going through the tough phase of the journey right now
Not liking the big blank spot on my new MMR below the DMD area ... so I created a simple graphic in Photoshop. Scaled it to size, then to test print, cut it in half in Photoshop (because the graphic is almost 14" wide), printed on 2 pieces of high grade photo paper and mounted using 2 sided tape. I wish one of the licensed guys would make these in nice HQ glossy vinyl!
Sorry guys I'm not making these and will not make them for anyone at any cost - copyrighted stuff
Quoted from MT45:Not liking the big blank spot on my new MMR below the DMD area ... so I created a simple graphic in Photoshop. Scaled it to size, then to test print, cut it in half in Photoshop (because the graphic is almost 14" wide), printed on 2 pieces of high grade photo paper and mounted using 2 sided tape. I wish one of the licensed guys would make these in nice HQ glossy vinyl!
Sorry guys I'm not making these and will not make them for anyone at any cost - copyrighted stuff
20160306_103524_(resized).jpg20160306_103540_(resized).jpg
Looks good, though, nice job.
Can MM recover itself from multiple balls landing it the catapult? I just turned mine off for its own good before it damaged itself and fished the balls out manually
just made me wonder what would of happened had it been out in the wild? Does it have some sort of programmed safety cut out after so many failed attempts to launch the balls ??
Quoted from drinkduffbeers:Can MM recover itself from multiple balls landing it the catapult? I just turned mine off for its own good before it damaged itself and fished the balls out manually
just made me wonder what would of happened had it been out in the wild? Does it have some sort of programmed safety cut out after so many failed attempts to launch the balls ??
Removing that ball trap bar would let the balls escape more easily but would it negatively affect game play too much?
Quoted from drinkduffbeers:Really???? Won't it damage itself?
damage what? In the menu is an option to increase the strength.
I've had this ongoing issue and sometimes I get lucky and a ball will get kicked out eventually, and other times not so lucky. Messing with the coil strength was not a fix-all as the power seemed to fluctuate, as well as be a bit too overpowered for just one ball, and I would have to adjust the wireform too. It got to be a bit of a headache in its own right. I had even tried slightly bending the wireform where the balls eject into as suggested by Lloyd, but that didn't seem to help either. Removing the ball trap was not an option as it made a successful catapult shot almost impossible. I've since returned the coil setting back to default and made sure the playfield pitch setting is at true 6.5 degrees(ignore the bubble) and living with it.
I have noticed that the coil will stop trying to eject the balls after about 6-8 attempts. If they are the only two balls left the game will then go into ball search mode and it may attempt to eject them again at that point.
The power settings on the coils have me a bit vexed though. Overall, the power level seems to be inconsistent, sometimes falling off over time at the higher settings. Like I said, I have it at default right now and it works pretty well. But if I set it to +1, it will not have enough power to send the ball around and it will drop down the left ramp. It takes a max setting to get it going around again reliably but will often be overpowered and bind at the top of the ramp. So that's why I have it at default.
Just finished adding the Schleich Knight I ordered. Came out great. ...had to cut back legs off but I was pretty sure I'd need to anyway because of size. Used 1 and 1/8th hex post and a little aluminum bracket to get him just right. His crown is about 1 millimeter below the glass and the balls clear the horses front hooves by the same!
Added a smaller standing knight on the right side and Merlin near the Merlin hole earlier in the week. My buddy Andrew helped me change out the LEDs behind the castle to purple. Starting to look just like I want it to!
I used my magnet to hold the ball to gauge distance as I adjusted the Knight. To install him:
1- Cut off the right and left legs - see image
2- Cut off as much of the tail as you can
3- Drill a hole through the horse (you wont see it because the knight cape covers it)
4- Put a screw through the hole
5- Add a 1 1/8th hex post under the horse to put the screw into
6- Find a scrap bracket (one that bends easily)
7- Loctite the horse side and remove the ramp screw and install
I needed to do lots of tweaking as this is a wicked tight fit
Happy with the result and will spray bracket black later this weekend
Note how he looks a lot like the guy on the translight - needs the jewels in his crown painted green (doing that later)
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Got my MMr just last Thursday. Ive notices that the peasant ramp sensor just right behind the castle doesnt always register the ball. From observation tonight it would seem that fast balls are registered, but slower balls do not register. Is that sensor supposed to register every ball?
Quoted from extraballingtmc:Now go work on that high score
Good catch! Spending too much time modding and not enough time playing!
Quoted from Animal:Got my MMr just last Thursday. Ive notices that the peasant ramp sensor just right behind the castle doesnt always register the ball. From observation tonight it would seem that fast balls are registered, but slower balls do not register. Is that sensor supposed to register every ball?
Try bending the metal leaf a bit so the ball is sure to make solid contact and depress the switch as it passes every time. I had a similar issue with the exit switch on my damsel ramp.
Also check the screws on all of the roll over switches as I found almost all of them loose and some almost falling apart and resulting in not registering.
Quoted from MT45:Not liking the big blank spot on my new MMR below the DMD area ... so I created a simple graphic in Photoshop. Scaled it to size, then to test print, cut it in half in Photoshop (because the graphic is almost 14" wide), printed on 2 pieces of high grade photo paper and mounted using 2 sided tape. I wish one of the licensed guys would make these in nice HQ glossy vinyl!
Sorry guys I'm not making these and will not make them for anyone at any cost - copyrighted stuff
20160306_103524_(resized).jpg20160306_103540_(resized).jpg
absolutely love it. Butif you won't take my cash can you at least teach us how to do it.
Question for you guys, is the "shoot again" insert suppose to light up during multiball and the ball save period or does just the "magic shield" insert light up?
Thanks
Quoted from Ramjet:Question for you guys, is the "shoot again" insert suppose to light up during multiball and the ball save period or does just the "magic shield" insert light up?
Thanks
Shoot again is only for an extra ball. The magic shield is your ball saver.
Just added my last figure to MMR. A helmeted fighting soldier (Lions Coat of Arms) figure on the left side (mates with figure on right)
Had to twist his sword around a bit to get him to fit there ...
Completed set on playfield is:
Schleich Knight on Horse (left orbit)
Merlin (just above Merlin's Magic hole)
Fighting solder on right (Mace in hand)
Fighting solder on left (Battle axe in hand)
Here's a few pics
20160310_222930_(resized).jpg
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Quoted from mtdouble:Can you sell me a set?
Of the figures you mean? If so, I just bought them from Ebay and Amazon. Search "Schleich" and "Papo" along with words like:
Knights, Wizards, Soldiers etc. - lots of them both new and used.
The way I attached them is the same way I do on most figures or added items ... E6000. Strong mount, not permanent, adhesive seal can easily be broken away and no harm done to machine. Just a dot or 2 of it holds nicely. Simply twist and pull to remove. Peel off any remaining residue
Only figure that required fiddling was the Knight on horse - instructions are above!
I have read here that some find the shoutouts are too low in the sound mix. I found them a bit low until I added a subwoofer to my machine. Although, I think the difference was from the capacitor I put in place for the subwoofer. Now the shoutouts have nice separation c\learly coming from the cabinet speakers, more clearly.
As for the peasant rollover switch issue I mentioned above, I tried bending the leaf, works some but not 100%. I will check for loose screws tonight, thanks for the tips!
Quoted from Animal:I have read here that some find the shoutouts are too low in the sound mix. I found them a bit low until I added a subwoofer to my machine. Although, I think the difference was from the capacitor I put in place for the subwoofer. Now the shoutouts have nice separation c\learly coming from the cabinet speakers, more clearly.
I added a polk audio PSW10 to my MMR. It made the sound much deeper and richer. I would recommend it. You can actually "feel" the hit of the castle.
Quoted from MT45:The way I attached them is the same way I do on most figures or added items ... E6000. Strong mount, not permanent, adhesive seal can easily be broken away and no harm done to machine. Just a dot or 2 of it holds nicely. Simply twist and pull to remove. Peel off any remaining residue
I drilled and screwed brackets on my figurines then simply attached them to any of the existing screws that were closest to where I wanted to place them. The shaker motor really does a number on anything that isn't fastened very well on the machine so for me screw is better than glue.
Has anyone installed the lit troll eyes on MMR? If so what is the best way to do it? Also I'm thinking of connecting a 12v light strip to the flashers on the back panel to trigger a lightning effect but I need to make sure the flasher boards are in fact 12v when I get home tonight. Has anyone done this as well?
Quoted from Drewblood419:Has anyone installed the lit troll eyes on MMR? If so what is the best way to do it? Also I'm thinking of connecting a 12v light strip to the flashers on the back panel to trigger a lightning effect but I need to make sure the flasher boards are in fact 12v when I get home tonight. Has anyone done this as well?
I added the troll eyes to mine. I just tied them to the GI. Very cool simple mod IMO!
Quoted from Drewblood419:Do they remain on even when the trolls are down?
Yes, but they're LEDs so no big deal.
Quoted from Leechman:I added the troll eyes to mine. I just tied them to the GI. Very cool simple mod IMO!
That's a ballsy move, I would attempt it if I had a second set to screw around with.
Quoted from SuperPinball:That's a ballsy move, I would attempt it if I had a second set to screw around with.
Ya my trolls and dragon mods seem to have the right components in them to work with the MMR voltages but my Merlin mod doesn't. I haven't messed with switching anything out to make that work yet but someday I'll mess with it. For now, just patiently waiting on the colorization to get out since that was my main reason for buying an MMR over an original to begin with!
Quoted from SuperPinball:I added a polk audio PSW10 to my MMR. It made the sound much deeper and richer. I would recommend it. You can actually "feel" the hit of the castle.
Could you please add a couple of pictures showing how you wired it in and mounted it?
Quoted from J_Striker:Troll eyes connect to solenoid and only come on when trolls are up
Did you have to wire a resistor or just directly to the solenoid?
Quoted from Rat:Could you please add a couple of pictures showing how you wired it in and mounted it?
Unscrew the 4 nuts holding the speaker and the mesh under it. Get a piece of speaker wire about 10 feet long and fish about 2 feet of it under the mesh from under the cab. Attach alligator clamps to each of the 2 wires inside the cab, one red and one black. Clip each of the wires to the different poles of the speaker. Just make sure you don't mix polarity keep blacks with blacks and whites with whites. Finally attach the other end to the back of the sub. Adjust the sub to your taste.
Some of you may get a rattle sound when adding the sub. The solution is to simply put one or two strips of masking tape along the edge of the glass and trim off the excess. No more rattle and all the great rich bass sound.
Enjoy
Ok, so Ive had MMr for 10 days in the house. Havent made any adjustments to make the play easier. Left the out lanes as per factor, same ball save time, angle at as close to 6.5 degrees as possible and man, its kicking my butt. So fast and draining like crazy...
Has anyone else had this experience?
Quoted from SuperPinball:Unscrew the 4 nuts holding the speaker and the mesh under it. Get a piece of speaker wire about 10 feet long and fish about 2 feet of it under the mesh from under the cab. Attach alligator clamps to each of the 2 wires inside the cab, one red and one black. Clip each of the wires to the different poles of the speaker. Just make sure you don't mix polarity keep blacks with blacks and whites with whites. Finally attach the other end to the back of the sub. Adjust the sub to your taste.
Wire_under_mesh_(resized).jpgConnection_to_speaker_(resized).jpgBack_of_speaker_(resized).jpgSub_under_pin_(resized).jpg
Ummm, dont you want the speaker wires going to "speaker level In"?
Quoted from Animal:Ok, so Ive had MMr for 10 days in the house. Havent made any adjustments to make the play easier. Left the out lanes as per factor, same ball save time, angle at as close to 6.5 degrees as possible and man, its kicking my butt. So fast and draining like crazy...
Has anyone else had this experience?
Yep..........I consider myself a reasonably good player and have played heaps of different pins over the years but my MMR was also kicking my butt when I first got it. I drained down the side outlanes sooo much that I ended up closing the gap a bit from factory (middle) and then I felt like I was cheating and it quickly became too easy so I reset them to factory.
Then I started trying to play a more controlled game instead of on the fly gameplay I practiced live catches and dialled in my aim and now my high score is just over 200mill. I have not completed BFTK yet but I have started it twice and I have got barnyard multi once but I still find the catapult shot too difficult and risky to go for in most games.
If you try to play on the fly and brick shots and get out of control you will quickly drain balls as they fly off the slings.....once you get control and slow it down you will start cranking up the scores, I like that it rewards good play Also go for the extra balls which are quite easy to get on a good game I would get about an average of 3 extra balls.
Quoted from Animal:Ummm, dont you want the speaker wires going to "speaker level In"?
Works absolutely perfect the way its input, so if it ain't broke don't fix All my machines are set up the same way with polk audio psw 10's under them. You can hook 2 machines per speaker as well but you lose the fine tuning you get with each if you do that. Since one pin might need more bass than another than it decreases the optimum effect.
How do you initiate multiball madness?? The manual says compete one of the tasks, for example, revolting peasants, and then make the Merlin eject shot. Im assuming that when you complete a task, then it lights up under the eject hole. but, there are times when I light up a number of tasks then put it in the eject hole, but multiball madness does not initiate. Do you have to do something else other than lighting up a task?
Quoted from Animal:How do you initiate multiball madness?? The manual says compete one of the tasks, for example, revolting peasants, and then make the Merlin eject shot. Im assuming that when you complete a task, then it lights up under the eject hole. but, there are times when I light up a number of tasks then put it in the eject hole, but multiball madness does not initiate. Do you have to do something else other than lighting up a task?
You are correct. What happens though is once you trigger multiball it won't trigger again just by hitting the Merlin hole. If it did you would have multi balls all the time. This is why it is best to try and complete as many tasks as possible before hitting the Merlin hole. The optimal strategy is to complete Peasant, Damsel, Catapult, Joust, but not Troll. Troll needs to be lit however by completing the yellow targets next to the castle 8 times so when you get the Merlin hole Trolls will activate during your multiball then when you complete Trolls it will immediately start multiball again so all balls lost you will get back.
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