Check that a holding screw did not come loose, the screw that holds the solenoid bracket. This happened to me, I think the shaker shook it loose. So the solenoid does not move properly up and limits the flipper travel. Just a guess. Although it would not be intermittent in that case.

Thanks, it was the middle lug...reflowed solder and its good to go. Pic is from before doing this and you can see connection looks a bit sketchy.

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I am a new owner of a MMR. Regarding the color display, it seems that some sequences in my display have not been colored. They last 1-2 seconds and relate to same sequences it seems.

I tried to make a search on this thread, but did not find any posts about it. Is this typical and is there a fix for it and if so, what is the fix?

Thank you for any info!

Not sure about your specific issue, but there was lots of discussion about this long ago in this thread you could still see those posts here. Quickly, I can say that for example, when the DMD image is the castle wall taking a hit and crumbling a bit from a lock ball shot, it seems uncolored. There are other scenes too but hardly noticeable. Is that what you mean?

Yes, exactly. Seems that it is a common phenomenon then. Thanks!

Out of curiosity when checking voltages with the meter, where do you guys settle on for ground? I typically use the ground braid in the cabinet but it's not great depending on the location of what you want to measure.

It happens also at the end of the first joust victory animation. It’s colored and then goes to greyscale.

It’s because of the way the color mod works. Much like the actual color DMD it just overlays the new animation over the old, so if there are frame differences they come through like that.

I wish they’d go through and revise the MMR color code, there are a few other errors it it, like the way Merlin’s Magic has text that gets cut off.

Still, those are nitpicks and it’s pretty good as it is.

Me too! Would be nice if they also revisit the audio levels.

So, loving my MMR, and just did more business with Lermods . Man, I tell you, they do such a nice job making their products plug and play, professional instructions and they look great, this is my third or fourth dealings with them, super satisfied here, don't hesitate doing business. I just wanted to show others, I usually don't buy tons of mods.. think I first bought stuff from them at TPF a few years ago.

Photos show Merlin mod, backboard lighting mod in purple, and trough lighting mod in purple, easy as pie to install, thanks Lermods !!!!! I think you can buy them in his pinside store.

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My MMRLE will sometimes boot and sometimes not... When it does boot it sometimes plays for a minute or so and then reboots... If it powers up and no game is started it will remain in attract mode before either rebooting or providing strange messages such as "escape and enter are opposites", "escape brings up previous menu", "enter activates current choice", "+ and - buttons are used"... I have reseated any connectors. Are one of my boards fried? The game is bone stock. Any assistance appreciated, thanks.

The issue started gradually whereby the game rebooted once mid game and then was fine. Have had it unplugged and not played since then for 3 months.

I'm having some issues with Solenoid Driver 3 board. Castle gate would not lift and left troll as well stopped coming up. When I went into test mode, I had somewhat sporadic operation of the gate, it would pop open most of the time, but then maybe miss a few pulses. But with the left troll, I could see it just barely trying to lift at a steady pulse rate.

I pulled SD3 out, fuses good. Looked for cracked soldier joints or any other types of visual clues, nothing found. Put the board back in. Good voltage from power supply at the SD3 board. Back to testing, now the gate seems to be working consistently, but the left troll is just the hint of movement. I plugged left troll up to gate position and with that, the left troll started to work to factory design.

Talking over this with my wife, I mentioned the SD3 also runs the catapult and she mentioned that it has been weaker, a couple of times the ball did not make it around the ramp to the left return lane.

Is there a known issue with these boards, common point of failure? Or will I most likely need to just outright replace the board? Any input is appreciated.

I would remove the screws holding the driver board to the huge board under the playfield. No need to remove the connectors. Then unplug the board. Replug it back into the huge board. And give a firm push to the row of the ten pins tops that go into the huge board. Replace the screws.

See if things improve.

LTG : )

Spotted, in the wild...

I recently returned from a California to Alaska motorcycle trip. We were in Fairbanks, AK and decided to catch a movie. Imagine my surprise to find an original MM in the lobby next to a GoT...

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They’re still out there earning that money!

Well haha funny, so I had pulled the board out prior to posting and reseating it, no change. So I pulled out the board and swapped it around with the one on the right side... and the same thing. Looking at the manual... stupid me... I was doing the left troll HOLD test.... not the pop the troll up test... so doing the correct test, the troll is jumping up as he should, the gate is opening as it should... I would say it was possible your suggestion was correct, just I wasn't smart enough to test it out correctly.

You are smart enough to figure it out. Good for you.

LTG : )

Very happy to be joining the MMr club, finally! I’m buying a HUO standard with color DMD and shaker. Ships tomorrow...knock on wood...so next week at this time I should be battling dragons and rescuing damsels! When my wife and I first started getting into pinball 10 years ago, this was the game she enjoyed most. And I agree with the above post about Lermods wizard mod with the led crystal ball. I actually liked that mod so much, I bought one weeks ago in anticipation of someday owning one of these.

MM is still on top at #1 after all these years. Very excited to be joining the club!

Hi!

I have noticed that the left troll does not always rise all the way up. It may first stay a bit lower (ca. 0,5 cm) and then it corrects itself to the playfield level.
What might be the fix for this? Thank you for any help!

The plunger it rides on is two pieces held together by a roll pin. Check if the roll pin has worked out a bit and wants to be pounded back in. Check the coil sleeve if it's worn. And check the troll carriage if it's breaking apart from the collar that secures it to the plunger.

LTG : )

Thanks, will do!

My gate isn’t registering every time. Also, once the gate opens, the castle doesn’t blow up every time a ball goes through it? Also, the ball lock doesn’t always register when the ball goes through the swinging door? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Turn game off. Take off lockdown bar. Remove glass and set somewhere safe. Stuff a rag in the ball trough outlet to keep balls in place. Lift playfield up a little and pull out to lock and then lift up and lean on the backbox.

Locate the green plastic trough under the castle area. See the one switch mounted to it ? Make sure it is there, not loose. Long shot might need adjusting.

LTG : )

Thank you!!

I will check back!!

It was a loose switch. A small screw fell out. Thanks again!!!

Yup.... I have had that happen....

In fact, I try to do it when I destroy a castle during multiball....

Not that easy to do, but I have done it probably 10 times....

Also a yes. Slightly off topic, someone mentioned that on AFM/AFMr since you cannot destroy ships during multiball like you can destroy castles during multiball in MM/MMr, there's a trick to counter that - shoot a ball into the ship just before the 3 bank comes back up and it will get trapped. Then during the multiball keep hitting the 3 bank and even though it does not register for destroying a ship, the trapped ball might be moved from hitting the 3 bank and sink into the hole to destroy the ship. Good times...

I generally change my batteries with the clocks, but it depends on how often your games are off. As I understand, the batteries are only active for saving your settings/scores when the game has no power.

If you own a medieval madness, you may want to purchase a copy of this awesome photograph...

Other - For Sale

Pinball Photograph (High Res) Archived

“This photograph is a very creative shot of Medieval Madness. This is a wide angle shot that makes you feel like you are inside the pinball machine (checkout the photo dimensions of...”

2019-10-12

Howell, MI

Jimmyhonda

0 (Firm)

Archived after: 13 days

Viewed: 796 times

Status: Not sold: Decided to keep game

Coin batteries last for years, I don’t replace sooner than 5 years myself.

Robert

How do you remove the castle decorative molding parts? I have an artist friend who has volunteered to paint it for me. I removed the two top turret screws form the front piece with the gate and it is loose but it won't come off. Also, what is the best way to remove the back damsel piece? It looks like all the ramps need to be removed unless there is a trick that I am missing?

I'm having this problem too so I'm resurrecting this post to see if anybody has made adjustments that help this. Like Shelly said even solid shots to the catapult will periodically/often bounce out of the catapult gate. I've tried bending gate a bit and adjusting where the posts sit that are on each side of the gate but have only had minimal improvement. Does anyone else have any suggestions on how to address this?

Has anyone heard anything about an XL display kit to replace the existing display? Maybe speakers too?

The development has been a possibly definitely maybe for a long time, see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-any-new-info-on-mmr-xl-display-options

Anyone think this would make a good topper? I have several for purchase or trade if anyone is interested (ignore the zombie that wouldn't fit MM of course) Dimensions are 30 x 25", 34 lbs, and made with self healing foam.

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Any must have items for a NIB MMR?

Any cautionary tales for unboxing, turning on, loading color chip, installing shaker, etc.?

Check backbox, and inside cabinet for any loose connections. Okay to give them and push to be sure. Especially transformer connectors and big blue ethernet cable running along the left underside of the playfield and plugging into the bottom of the huge board.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd. I read that the shaker loosens things. Is that just connectors that come loose? Are there any known fixes to keep things in place?

I'm most curious where / how you scored a NIB MMR?
Many of us have deposits down on the delayed limited run that was supposed to have happened in July.
I'm only a little bit envious...
Congrats!

Latest rumor is they might start production in October/November....I spoke with PPS as I wanted to order a new one as well.

If game is good from the start. Nothing loose in shipping. A shaker doesn't add that much compared to everyday play.

Don't worry about it.

LTG : )

Oh boy Lloyd... couldn’t disagree more. I can’t imagine an exploding castle or catapult launch without a some good shaker support. Well, actually, i can imagine it because I’ve experienced it on other versions than mine and it just feels lifeless. But personal preference I guess.

EDIT: I shouldn’t respond so early in the morning before my caffeine jumps starts my brain. Doh!

Ahhh... that might make more sense.

today was the day:

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I disagree. If a holding screw (contact hold screw to rod) can come loose from the flipper mechanism, the shaker can contribute to making it worse by vibrating the mechanism. It happened on my game, I have a shaker. That screw came completely loose and fell in the cabinet. It really depends on the game mechanisms, game specific issue I am saying, whether the shaker is an issue in that manner, but they all have flipper mechanisms.

Congrats! 10 months into ownership and I've been close once or twice but haven't yet placed my initials on that screen...