Is it - page 1-39 in the manual. A.2 #18 & #19 ?

LTG : )

You need to spell fire 8 times for video mode. Collect in the scoop.

I know, but there's a setting you can adjust how many times is needed.

Correct, it is the same as lighting all the blue inserts.

Heads up. When changing this it will still say you need to collect 8 on display.

Sweet price on a new MMR playfield:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/79245

PM if interested.

My Sir Psycho callouts seem awful quiet.. did I miss an update or something?

They've always been that way. All the castle bosses are too low. Rick/CGC knows this but won't release an official update for it for some reason.

Maybe we will get one when the next batch is built. Seems like this would be an easy fix. Fingers crossed.

Is there an unofficial update? Feel free to pm me if it's on the DL.

Thinking about joining the club, possibly with the alleged summer batch.

Any tips or recommendations about grabbing one of these new?

Call distributors and see what’s available. I imagine you should be able to find one.

What about a lightly used HUO? You might be able to find one with the color package and maybe a few mods/topper for the same price as a new one. Much more for your money for just a few hundred plays.

At the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown a few weeks ago I talked with a couple guys from CGC. They told me most of the machines in the run have already been sold through pre-order, so if you want one and haven't pre-ordered yet to do so soon or might not get one. They will start building them by July 4, and can expect to receive it late July/early August.

I finally did it, I finally battled for the kingdom and won! It's taken me over a year of owning it. I knew I stood a chance whenever I had three extra balls and all the lights except castle crusher.

Drained the first extra ball working on the final castle gate. Second ball I get the gate destroyed by way of a multiball and then started bftk. In hindsight I shouldn't have as I had two dangers and that gate can be dangerous. I had to make some saves that must have been right on the edge of tilting. I won't give away any details of the wizard mode other than it's timed, very intense and challenging, and VERY satisfying when you complete it.

Ended up having my wife tell me to shut it off as babies were going to bed. Drained the final two balls with an extra ball lit from hurry ups and had a score of over 300,000,000.

This game is amazing, truly a masterpiece.

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Nice job!

I just got my MMRLE and love it. I noticed a small 3 led board under the dragon on the right ramp . I never have seen it light. I assume it is supposed to at some time. Anyone know when it comes on and where the wires connect.

You can check it in Tests - Flashers - T5 21 ,see if it lights. If so, you are missing seeing it in game play.

LTG : )

That might be the extra ball indicator, all lights out except that one flashing when you qualify for EB after crushing the second castle and before that ball returns from the moat kicker. Callout is "Get the extra ball". There's an audible beeping as well.

Thanks for the responses. I am not talking about Flasher T5-21 under right ramp . I am talking about small leds right under dragon on the black dragon support.

I see now they flash at the same time as the flashers under the ramp. They just don't light up the dragon that well.

I think this is a common issue. They used translucent-looking plastic in an attempt to make the dragon glow, but it doesn't work well.
A few modders offer different dragon models that transmit more light.

I recently got a 3D translite and have the factory translite from my mmr for sale. If anyone is interested, please pm me. I’m thinking $75 plus $5 shipping if interested.

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Not sure. Anyone can pm me if interested.

Has anyone here installed the LED Troll heads mod from Pinwize? I'm having some issues.

First, if there is an easy, straightforward way of replacing the old head, I'm all ears. I decided to remove the entire assembly(which is a pain), but still had trouble getting to the screws on the back of the head.

Anyway, that aside, I replaced one head and put the assembly back. I wasn't sure about the wire hookups though. The website directions seem to only be from the original and the coil wire colors are not what are used on the MMR. I tried going from the positioning indicated in the picture, instead of color. I noticed a Test report indicating that the L/R (U) Troll switches were bad. Testing them, they seemed to indicate open/closed just fine. I can start a game, activate trolls and everything seems to work fine. They pop up. They register hits, and pop back down. No LEDs though. I've rebooted the machine several times but still get the Test report of bad switches upon entering the menu. I've checked and re-checked that all three of the connectors are correct and seated well. They are all color coded too, and I took pictures to verify before removing in the first place.

I'd be more worried if they didn't seem to be working during gameplay, but not sure why it is reporting bad switches. And after all this, I still don't have the LED working yet.

Could use some help/advice here.

Follow up. After some more fiddling, it seems the error has gone away now(hope for good), but still no lights. You can see the difference in coil wire colors in the pics below. First is original, second is MMR. The coloring on MMR is (from L to R) Blue, Brown(ish), Orange. I've tried every combo I can think of too. Glad I decided to go with alligator clips at first instead of soldering.
troll_head_install_3 (resized).jpgIMG_0609 (resized).JPG

Think I've pretty much confirmed that it is a dead troll. Tested with just a battery power source and no light. Tested the other troll that I hadn't installed yet with same power source and it lights up. I've contacted Pinwize and hopefully I can get it replaced.

Is the MMr 2019 run on the line yet?

I was just informed CGC has pushed the next round of MMr production to 'either Aug or Sept'.

The goal posts continue to move.

Where did you hear this?

Ugh. For once I'd love to hear that a pinball company is "ahead of schedule". I don't believe that will ever happen.

I emailed my distributor and he told me this. I got in line in April with a $2000 deposit down, was told June. Then news from the last convention...it would likely be after July 4th because they were ‘wrapping up MBr LE’s’ and ‘had to have MMr on the line by July 4th’.

I put a deposit on one back in like February. Last I heard from CGC (which was Memorial Day Weekend at the Rocky Mountain Pinball Showdown) was they were finishing up MBr by July 4th and then would be starting on MMr immediately thereafter and that I could expect my game to be delivered end of July/start of August. Based on what you were told it sounds like the timeline I was told is still accurate.

Hi folks! Been some time since I've posted in here. MMrLE #355 original owner here. Just wanted to show off my pride and joy. MM is still my favorite pin, next to my ST "Promium". I've modded both extensively. Here's a video and list of all my mods.

Lenticular 3D trans
Color DMD chip upgrade
Speaker LED kit
Pin Stadium Fusion kit
Backboard LED strip (purple)
Moat LED strip (green)
Trough LED strip (red)
Flipper button LEDs (red)
Troll LED eyes (red) - ended up doing it myself
Blue Dragon w/LEDs (blue wings, red fire breath)
Stock Red Dragon w/LED mod (red, another DIY addition)
Merlin figure w/LED crystal ball (blue)
Catapult model w/LED mod (red)
Oak Barrel spot lamp mod w/flickering torch LED mod(under slingshots)
Dress up kit (Chrome start button emblem, sword flipper bats, metal castle emblem)
Decal set (Troll targets, Merlin's Magic targets, plastic decal for bare metal divider between castle gate and wall shot)

I have to say, adding the Pin Stadium Fusions to my MMR(have them on ST too) was the best thing I ever did. All other modding aside, I highly recommend them for any pin, but MM benefits from them greatly.

How did you go with the plastic trim? I just tried to install my MM 3d translite and the trim just doesn't fit. It was tight enough before but with the slightly extra thickness of the 3d translite it just doesn't fit. Is there a different plastic trim for WPC95 games with the translite box to the normal translite set up on earlier games? If so, maybe that's my problem?
Thanks for any feedback.

Anyone ever had this issue with their DMD? It’s starting to go nuts. But goes in and out. Happening about 10% of the time now. Thanks!

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Power off. Try reseating all cables/connectors both ends at LCD and board in the head.

Credit dot - check that too.

LTG : )

Lloyd! The man, as usual. Will do and let you know the result here. (on aside, going to be installing 2.0 system on WOZ here soon. Hope to not need ya but might). Thank you!

Is your MMR rom up to date?

Well, I haven’t updated anything in this machine since I bought it 2 years ago, so I doubt it? Think that’ll help?

No. Won't fix the screen or credit dot.

LTG : )

I really miss our MMRLE! I drove 8hrs each way to pick it up gently used and we had it over a year. Everyone loved playing it - newbs to collectors, and it was bulletproof. I can only fit 4 pins and definitely rotated it out too soon. One of the best ever!

It may fix the dot if he’s having the time/date error..?

As for the display issue, probably not huh.

Easy to hit the enter button and see. If time date, yes the current update fixes it.

Thank you.
LTG : )

Yep. This did it. Error occurred during move to a new spot. Must have shaken some cables loose. Fixed her right up. Thanks!!

Now,

As my mbrle looks so lonely with his topper, I decide to make one for my Mmrle.

Not for sale

OMG that's amazing! Nice job! If it was for sale, I'd almost be too afraid to ask for how much.

With all the modding I've done on my MMr and ST:Pro, I've kind of shied away from toppers. Even though there are a couple OK ones for MM, I really haven't seen anything that has jumped out at me for ST, which is a shame. If I were going to do toppers, it would have to be for both.

Some pics

D105CE62-FC92-4CF7-AECE-C2E09AE47CC4 (resized).jpeg

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My right flipper is intermittently dying. When it does, i have done the following tests.
Flipper opto switch: working fine
Flipper coil test: power test fails, hold test works
There is 75V at each lug. The orange and brown wire ones drop to 68V when I press the flipper button. The blue wire one drops to 0V. Same behaviour as the left (working flipper)
When I ground the middle (brown) lug with my DMM to test the voltage and hit the flipper button, the flipper works.
Not sure of the next step???

***edit***
Think I have found the issue...I think the middle lug needs some reflowed solder...when I tested the middle lug again with the DMM the black lead came off the ground, but the flipper still worked. If I took the red lead off the middle lug, it stops working. So I assume the lead on the lug is completing the connection which must be flaky due to the intermittent nature of the problem. So some new solder should fix it I expect.