Also done, thanks!

You could drill a hole between the flippers and stick a post in there.

Hey all,

I’m seriously thinking about purchasing a MMR. I can actually get one much cheaper shipped from the USA to me here in the UK than purchasing locally but are they easily converted from 115VAC to 220VAC? I was thinking yes but can anyone advise?

Download the manual and see.

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals.php

LTG : )

I know everyone was waiting for an update with bated breath. Yes, a coil replacement worked. In other news soldering in place sucks. What are your techniques for doing solder work while fighting gravity?

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this metal post? Mine snapped off last night, and I don't see it in the manual.

Post (resized).jpg

You might have to go to - http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ under Support open a ticket on the Help Desk and post your picture and ask there.

LTG : )

Install a molex connector for the 3 wires.

Unplug it and do a better job out of the game.

I'm doing this all the time now, for each time I have to unsolder anything.

Just quickly install a connector. Takes 3mins.

I had the exact same post snap. What I did was this, I took the broken part to Lowe's and used the template to find the thread pitch. Then I found some threaded rod with same pitch. The smallest one they have was about 1/4" longer so I just screwed it into the T nut so the extra part sticks out under PF. Sorry I don't remember the size but I was able to find what I needed in 5 min and was back playing. Hope this helps!

I'm a soldering newb, but for me, I tin the lugs and the wires and then just add a little heat on to the lug, pull away, and it sticks together nicely.

Otherwise, use needlenose pliers to wrap the wires around the hole of the lug, then it stays in place as you apply solder.

You can tin the wires before threading them through the lugs, which can make the bonding a little better.

Thanks, I think I found the correct part. 02-4425-1 Post stud 8-32 x 2-3/8 inches 5/16 drive. It looks like the correct size and Marco shows MM compatibility.

Yes, it's a common part.

New member, new MMR owner here. Got some questions about a component (and pardon my lack of knowledge of some of the terminology):

Along the right orbit, just below where the ball goes from the Merlin kick-out, there is a black and silver metal doohickey that slows down the ball when it comes out of Merlin (but it's off to the side enough that if you go around the orbit from the left, it doesn't interfere). On my machine, this thing slows down the ball enough that the ball always bounces off the top of the right slingshot and down the middle. It's incredibly frustrating. I've taken to bumping the machine a bit every time this happens so that I can avoid losing balls to it, but I feel like I've never seen this happen on other MM machines.

My questions: 1: Does anyone else experience this? 2: Is it a problem/Is it intended to work this way? 3: If it's not supposed to work this way, what's wrong with mine? 4: If it's supposed to work this way, will people judge me for removing it? I hate it!

3hzpPEsBwCa (resized).png

I'm pretty sure my machine is properly leveled. I don't have a fancy digital level but my phone has a level app and my analog spirit level agrees with it. I'm set up at 6.5 degrees vertical, which is what the manual suggested.

I can't see what purpose the deflector serves. I tried disabling it (it swings up and out of the way freely) with a twist-tie and the machine plays much better. Balls coming out from Merlin or the jets are less predictable (sometimes they hit the top of the slingshot and bounce around, but most of the time they roll right down the right slingshot without triggering it), but the game moves faster (the deflector *really* slows things down there - the ball would come to a dead stop) and is more fun without it.

Am I a savage? Am I risking somehow damaging my machine by disabling this thing? I'm strongly considering removing it altogether because I like the way the machine plays so much better without that thing there, and it looks goofy with the twist tie hack.

It's called a 'gate'.

You can disable it. On the original (and therefore the remake), it was to stop poorly-shot balls, and balls coming from Merlin to bounce wrong and go straight down the middle, between the two flippers. Slope can affect this, as can the metal ball guide there on the outside of the joust loop, that ends just above the Merlin targets.

Welcome to the club and welcome to pinside. IMHO, you picked an awesome machine for your first!!

Others have already chimed in on the gate. One other thing you might try is to either adjust the game closer to 6.8-7.0 degrees which will affect the ball speed and angle out of the gate (even when it's held up) and see where it lands then. Or see if you can move the metal guide out slightly (might have to bend it carefully) just a mm or so.

It's your game, so you can dial it in however you like. It's quite normal for different pins to have different feeds so what you're experiencing is not out of the ordinary. This is pinball and the randomness is liked by some and not by others.

Like he said, you can do what you want. However, if you disable the gate (or remove it completely), you'll likely see balls coming out of the orbit and rolling straight down the middle...missing the sling, flipper, everything.

Pitch is how I corrected this on mine. I raised mine to 7 between the flippers (it reads 7.2 at the castle moat). This gives a much more consistent drop out of the left and right orbits, but it's by no means a guaranteed feed to the flipper.

This is my grail pin and I love it. All the mods on this game, I made it myself so if anyone has a question, I'll try to answer them best as I can. So far the mods are the double headed dragon, merlin, led troll eyes, leds in the castle(cutout window,skulls), and probably my favorite is the lightning in the background. I wanted to achieve the similar effect you get with the transparent plexiglass backboard which cost around $450 which I think is just crazy. So I airbrushed the lightning with a UV reactive paint and I think it came out pretty awesome. So everytime the back flashers goes off, the effect is pretty spectacular imo.20180915_063416 (resized).jpgVideoCapture_20180917-070102 (1) (resized).jpgVideoCapture_20180917-065919 (1) (resized).jpg

That lightning does look pretty bad ass.

Two games in a row I get to Royal Madness... but on the last shot I drain - both times. I guess I choke when it really counts.

I’m looking to convert an MMR from 120vac to 240vac. This information is covered in the manual and looks to be as I suspected looking at the manual a simple case of flipping a switch on the switching power supply from 120 to 240.

Only bit that is confusing me is the part that reads “use the correct voltage selection block”

Photo attached.

Does a spare voltage block intended for 240vac come with the machine should the owner wish to alter the voltage?

Help please

95A23BB8-EDAD-4FEE-A79F-7E1273E1DA02 (resized).png

No, you'd have to move the wires around in that connector that plugs onto the metal box over the on/off switch.

LTG : )

Is there a tool that makes removing the pins easier?

Nice to hear someone actually talking about playing! Haha

I've finished BFTK multiple times, but I find that RM is one mode that just seems to get me off my game. You'll get it. Just take your time with your shots

Molex pin remover.

Or deftly release the little fingers with a needle or tiny optical screwdriver, sometimes both.

I also have had success using a piece of brass tubing that fit closely around the pin

General maintenance tips? I've put about 400 games on the machine since I got it a month and a half ago. I notice that every now and then I'll shoot the ball and his the drawbridge/gate and it won't register (very rarely), or sometimes I will get it through the castle multiball gate and the castle will blow up (again, very rarely). Everything else seems to be working well. Do you guys do anything special after x amount of games?

I'd clean (Novus 1 should suffice) and wax the playfield. If the castle drawbridge doesn't register always you might want to clean the opto's with a q-tip. I've seen the same issue with sometimes the castle blowing up when shooting the castle multiball gate but I believe it might be a SW bug (also in the original I believe) but could be wrong

It's not a bug. If you trip the bridge/gate opto and then quickly shoot the lock the game thinks you went into castle.

Start here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide

Does this machine use the standard 1 1/16" pinballs? I replaced the standard balls with new 1 1/16" and the game seems to play considerably faster.

Yes.

Anybody notice any odd behaviors in game play? I noticed that when the Trolls are in play, if there's a ball hang-up and ball search, the Trolls going down and up during ball search counts as Troll hits.

Yesterday when playing with my son the ball got stuck behind the right troll. Game went into search and the trolls didn't register a hit when they popped down and back up. My guess is your switch contacts need adjusting.

Depends also on the balls. Say for instance you're using those super shiny ones, they tend to move a lot faster.

I put "Silver Jet" brand balls in my MMR and it was ridiculous how quickly it whipped around. Really didn't like it, so I pulled them out after a couple of games.

I like the ones from PBL. I find they are pretty much like stock.

I suppose you could go into Tests - Switch Edge, bang on playfield, and troll that registers make it a tiny bit less sensitive.

LTG : )

Which ones exactly? I did get the super shiny and they are moving super fast.

Has anyone changed out the castle spotlight bulbs? I just tried to swap mine out for somethign brighter but it looks liek the ones that come with the machine are glued into the bulb socket.

Another issue is my Trolls don't register hits, they have hove be super hard hits in order for them to register. Probably 2 out of 10 hits work.

I put green spots in my game. Your leaf switches likely need adjustment or trolls aren't on good/binding.

Were your bulbs glued into the spot sockets?

Mine are glued too.

Those super shiny ones suck in my opinion. They look nice, but they go too fast. I like to play my games as close to their original design as possible, and the ball has a lot to do with that.

Try these:

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-pinball-standard-size.html

Ordered, thanks!

Don't forget to change them out every so often too. The amount of time will vary from owner to owner. I just set myself to clean the games every 3 months or so, and then change out the balls then.

The Trolls issue: I had an issue on mine after 1000 plays or so. Was not a quick adjustment, the right Troll head actually came loose from the leaf switch. The Trolls have 2 screws holding them on but the lower screw hole is too close to the edge of the troll head and that margin breaks off, now the hole is a slot and the Troll head is loose. i had to replace the head. A $20 part. The issue is, when doing work/repair with the troll. do not take the trap door mechanism off as it is a real pain to get it rightfully re-assembled. Llyod can attest that the best option is to loosen the binding screw underneath the playfield and fish the whole troll assembly out of the topside of the pf to work on it. Use a crescent wrench to get to the Troll head screws without any other dissasembly, I wedged an unused post rubber between the trap door and the troll head to create clearance. I don't know if this helps you or not, but at least it is instruction to myself to re-visit this thread if I ever forget what I did.

Change balls out every 350-500 plays.

Hard wax it about the same frequency with blitz 100 grand or P21S silver can wax.

Would any of you consider trading your MMR for a MBR? I'm debating this currently. Talk me off the ledge

LE for LE, Standard for CE or some other combo? That might make a difference in the decision.

Robert

Don’t do it. MMr is the stronger game. The enhancements on MBr are nice but don’t make up for the differences in the underlying game.

It's a little different on MMr as the difference between the standard and LE is just a shaker motor and trim color choice. You can add a shaker for $150. Both needed the color upgrade.

As far as trading a MMr for a MBr, I wouldn't do it. MBr is a great game but not nearly as good as MMr in my book.

He gave no indication of what was being traded...a standard routed MMr without color with 10,000 plays for a MBrLE or was it a MMRLE with color chip and 30 plays for a MBr CE.

It makes a difference and that's what I was drilling down to.

Robert