Get a roll of replacement black edging.

Apply with a household iron for permanent installation , $20

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/melamine-black-2-x-25-edge-banding?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8dK-s-qX3AIVhLfACh3rPQ-7EAQYAiABEgL9gfD_BwE

859362.0 (resized).jpg

Not sure if it helps, but it might just be plastic backbox trim, you can buy at Marco's and other places.

You could probably strip the existing facade off there an re-apply new. It is basically melamine cabinet edging (sample below) ... probably need to have the head off the machine in order to do it properly.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Melamine-Edge-Banding-Preglued/dp/B01C3PHUX4/ref=asc_df_B01C3PHUX4/

Is this the exact size I need?

And wonder if I can apply this without taking the header off? Thoughts?

It's 2" wide, 25 feet long.

So you will need to cut it.

Score with ruler and razor blade, snap over the edge of the table.

It's easy to remove the head, but if you like adventure & acrobatics, you could probably do it with the head still on.

Sell it and buy another one. It will never be the same.

Not starting nothing, just curious, but my friend scored well over a billion (twice) recently. What is the highest score you've ever seen/heard of on a real machine? Personally I think the guy is be going to be tough to beat on Medieval Madness...The Force is strong in this one.

Thoughts?

repeat information.

Or better yet, start a CGC bashing thread on Pinside talking about how terrible the backbox holds up under normal play compared to the originals. First flipper-gate... now edge-banding-gate. I’ve heard some of the pros are already saying that the remake backbox edges just don’t “feel” the same as the originals. When will the madness stop?!?!

Not near my machine, but pretty sure the width of the edge is less than 2". The other link someone shared for the 3/4" or 7/8" sounds right.

Can anyone confirm.

Also, is it better to lay the new strip over the existing, or remove the and then apply fresh?

You will need to remove the old.

Use the factory edge on the roll for the face, your cut edge for the bottom

When I fix formica/Mel coverings, I install oversized, then trim it down with a piloted router bit

I’ve got a Nice Indiana Jones I am looking to trade for a MM or MMR if anyone is tried of their game yet.. PM for details..

Old school Pinball repair tool since 1964:
sharpie marker (resized).jpg

I have a silver all mania that was completely redone with a box of them I think...

The ink in Sharpies is so weak nowadays that they just turn purple in a few months.

Agreed, color has a tint to it and the sheen doesn't match either. Spend the $5 on a paint pen

Any particular pain that you would recommend?

Molotow high solid paint pens
Signal black.

Or something from Michael's in the black paint pen dept. Take a sample and match it up.

I am not at home this weekend or I'd post a photo for you. I went to hobby lobby and bought 3-4 and tried them all to see which one I liked the best.

I recommend The King of Pain!

It has arrived! Xmas in July

IMG_3065 (resized).jpg

Enjoy! Looks like they have made at least 240 games since I got mine in late Oct.

I’d be afraid of doing more damage removing the existing strip. If you have the small piece that broke off, you could try gluing it back (if you could keep it looking clean), but if not, you’re going to have to try to find a source for that strip. Maybe contact CGC?

Does anyone want to share what they’ve adjusted their power levels to in the CGC menu? I am still running default for all mine, but was experimenting and wondered what other people had done.

I haven’t changed anything yet. Once in a while, I get two or three balls stuck in the catapult and eventually have to drop the glass back to get them out. Thinking of maybe increasing the PL of the catapult.

Like this?

20180514_104128 (resized).jpg

I got 2 balls stuck in the catapult last night for the first time ever. it tried a handful of times and finally 1 made it up and dropped to the lower ramp, so the 1st ball could launch.

Huh, I’ve never seen that happen!

Nice shot(s)! Try doing this one

Fortunately the ball search more easily takes care of it than multiples in the catapult. Only gotten two in the catapult before, never three. Clears after a few attempts - same thing, first one down the ramp.

IMG_3502 (resized).jpg

Catapult +1 the rest are factory set

How about this?

34B0C365-0459-432A-B892-47A76B990623 (resized).jpeg

or this...

IMG_20180311_182334 (resized).jpg

That’s tougher than the hole in one shot on NGG!

Playing MMr just now and we got this one....

MM-Stuck (resized).jpg

So for some reason my MMR last night was super squirrelly and was flying balls around the pf like it was GB's.....

When MM came out, the balls would always get stuck on top of the turrets and on the dragon's back.

The distributors had to hand out a kit that eliminated a bunch of those traps.

I don't think they ever trap-tested that game, lol

I am having a minor issue with my MMR. When I start the game I get a report error of R. Gate closed. I did go into testing menu and did the loop test. Everything passed fine. The loop around test okay and the loop drop to pop bumpers also passed. Does not show the any of the right switches closed, but I still get that error that tells me Right Gate closed. Any suggestions or has anyone else ran into this issue? Probably and easy fix.

Found a solution to touching up the little chipped edge on my back box. Looks like new now!

IMG_20180725_213453 (resized).jpg

BOOM! Paint (stain) pen to the rescue! That is your best friend for those little bumps and bruises that used games seem to end up with.

Checking to see if anybody else is having an inconsistent issue with the right ramp diverter (Damsel/castle) - the diverter works (lowers) maybe 5-10% of the time for me when it is time to save the damsel. I can manually move the diverter and it doesn't seem to stick. Solder connection on the coil lugs/wires look good. Anybody else have any issues with that diverter?

Thank you.

I've never had that issue, when the last ramp qualifying shot is made, my diverter goes down. Sometimes though it does not come back up. The diverter can get some interference on the way up with the slot in the plastic, that's to be expected. Not lowering though sounds like a solenoid issue.

Do you still get the damsel callout when the last qualifying ramp shot is made and are the inserts properly all lit when the diverter is supposed to go down? This would indicate a solenoid issue I would think or interference with the slot maybe on the way down? Otherwise maybe the ramp sensor is faulty not counting the ramp makes properly.

I need to do my first mechanical repair...on any machine, and I'm looking for a little guidance. I'm not super mechanical, but I can follow instructions with the best of 'em. The left flipper of my MMR has developed a slight droop. It's not much, but it is noticeable to the eye as the tips are no longer even. It's especially noticeable when playing. The shot dynamics have totally changed. It must have happened fairly quickly, as it played fine one day and was wonky the next.

I'm sure that this isn't a rare problem, but I searched the forums and just found complaining...no fix instructions. Any help would be appreciated.

Its an easy adjustment but search for this and read it as this will help you understand

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

The small blue driver boards under the game (3 of them) are identical. I would swap one around and see if the issue moves to a different coil after the swap. Would help rule out an electrical/drive issues.

Marc

Maybe my video will help.

So you understand the parts and how they work.

LTG : )

Just loosen up the flipper pawl from the flipper shaft, realign as desired, and tighten it back down. You’ll need an allen wench. Don’t be too gentle, it needs to be tight, but don’t go insane either.

Just loosen a little at a time until you can barely move the flipper. Then get it in the position you like and then retighten the pawl nut. That way you don't effect the up and down play of the flipper.

LTG : )

Ok so I'm tyring to figure out what the best way will be to deal with how dark the game is and how much reflection I get from the backglass etc. What is the better solution? Switch GI over to brigter natural white LEDs and invisiglass/HD glass or add Pinstadium?