(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

8 years ago


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#3201 5 years ago
Quoted from Smokezz:

I'm not sure this is the issue. If I push up on the pin underneath it's pretty stiff right away. The left troll moves freely. I don't see anything up top that would be bent and stop it from moving freely.

Two things I'd check. The troll carriage has the top metal box and a collar pressed into it. If that joint comes apart can cause binding.

The other thing to check is the long plunger inside the coil that pushes the troll carriage up. It is two pieces, held together by a roll pin. If that roll pin creeps out, it will drag on the inside of the coil sleeve. Also see if the coil sleeve is cracked or broken.

LTG : )

-1
#3202 5 years ago
Quoted from Smokezz:

I'm not sure this is the issue. If I push up on the pin underneath it's pretty stiff right away. The left troll moves freely. I don't see anything up top that would be bent and stop it from moving freely.

...

#3203 5 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

I did that to mine but you can only bend it a couple of mm or you will have a big gap between the post and the guide. Then a lane shot can hit the edge of the guide which is not good. I also found that the guide seems to go back to its original position after a few weeks of play and the problem comes back.
Recently I raised my rear legs increasing the playfield angle slightly. This helped but I still have some balls hit the top of right sling and go SDTM. This is a difficult adjustment to get right and has caused me plenty of frustration.

I understand that you will need to go and do it again in a few weeks, but it is the only way to tweak the machine to fix the issue.....
There is a small gap between the rubber post and the metal, but I have never had an issue with the right orbit shot.....and the balls don't roll down and hit the sling now..... So I am very happy with the outcome of the fix.....

On a side note, finally completed Battle For the Kingdom on my 10th attempt....new high score..... 260,635,380

Shelly

#3204 5 years ago

Look what showed up in the mail...

MVIMG_20180404_140337 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180404_140337 (resized).jpg

#3205 5 years ago

Why did you get that?

#3206 5 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Why did you get that?

Future swap

#3207 5 years ago
#3209 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Well said.....

Hahah. I posted something meant for another thread, but didn’t see a delete :-p

#3210 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I posted something meant for another thread, but didn’t see a delete

You can't do that. Mods or Robin can. Maybe just Robin.

LTG : )

#3211 5 years ago

Just joined the club! I cannot wait We had an MMr at work which I played daily and never thought I would own. Ownership change at the company resulted in the pins going with the owner I realized after a few months I really really miss this pin and wanted it in my collection. Have cliffy and mantis protectors incoming; should get here around the time of MMr delivery. I am pretty comfortable working on MMr as I maintained the one at work. Had very few issues so I am hoping mine is just as solid.

So one question I have is the merlin hole protectors. Looks like pinbits is sold out atm. Difficulty in installation seems to be a common theme in posts I have read. Mantis says theirs is made thin so you can bend as needed for installation but I saw a post suggesting not doing this. Is this just a tough spot to protect properly?

#3212 5 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Just joined the club! I cannot wait We had an MMr at work which I played daily and never thought I would own. Ownership change at the company resulted in the pins going with the owner I realized after a few months I really really miss this pin and wanted it in my collection. Have cliffy and mantis protectors incoming; should get here around the time of MMr delivery. I am pretty comfortable working on MMr as I maintained the one at work. Had very few issues so I am hoping mine is just as solid.
So one question I have is the merlin hole protectors. Looks like pinbits is sold out atm. Difficulty in installation seems to be a common theme in posts I have read. Mantis says theirs is made thin so you can bend as needed for installation but I saw a post suggesting not doing this. Is this just a tough spot to protect properly?

Congrats!!

I have all of Mantis and Cliffys all over my MMr as well, as well as Pinbits plastic protectors. Everywhere but the Merlin hole, as I could not make any of the manufactured solutions work, look, and fit to my satisfaction.....so I left it without one. Hundreds of games later my Merlin hole still looks fine. FWIW, and YMMV...

#3213 5 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Just joined the club! I cannot wait We had an MMr at work which I played daily and never thought I would own. Ownership change at the company resulted in the pins going with the owner I realized after a few months I really really miss this pin and wanted it in my collection. Have cliffy and mantis protectors incoming; should get here around the time of MMr delivery. I am pretty comfortable working on MMr as I maintained the one at work. Had very few issues so I am hoping mine is just as solid.
So one question I have is the merlin hole protectors. Looks like pinbits is sold out atm. Difficulty in installation seems to be a common theme in posts I have read. Mantis says theirs is made thin so you can bend as needed for installation but I saw a post suggesting not doing this. Is this just a tough spot to protect properly?

The merlin protector stuff has been covered extensively in prior posts here. The summary tip is do NOT bend the mantis merlin protector whatsoever, it will not regain its shape. The merlin solenoid\popper bracket sits in a recess corner notched in the playfield wood, make sure to fit this properly before drilling the hole for the mantis protector. The Pinbits one should go on first so maybe wait to get it before installing the mantis.

#3214 5 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Congrats!!
I have all of Mantis and Cliffys all over my MMr as well, as well as Pinbits plastic protectors. Everywhere but the Merlin hole, as I could not make any of the manufactured solutions work, look, and fit to my satisfaction.....so I left it without one. Hundreds of games later my Merlin hole still looks fine. FWIW, and YMMV...

Thanks, yes that helps. The one we had at work had no protectors and after 1000's of games the only spot really showing much wear was the wood in front of the flap / ball lock. Mine will be HUO!

#3215 5 years ago
Quoted from Sam40:

On a side note, finally completed Battle For the Kingdom on my 10th attempt....new high score..... 260,635,380
Shelly

Congrats! I love BFTK; it is not overly hard to start but just so damn hard to complete. I would always get to one ball and the countdown timer would just totally psych me out.

#3216 5 years ago

The mantis merlin hole protector bends and fits; it's purposely made of soft malleable metal. Be slow and careful. Use tools if necessary when in the hole to recover the shape. Even if you slightly crease the metal it's no big deal. It pretty much isn't visible (sunken) and it protects and works well. I put both mantis and pinbits merlin hole protectors on the MMR, as well as many of the other protectors and pieces.

#3217 5 years ago

Just put on some Pinstadiums....

Here is before

MMr_before (resized).jpgMMr_before (resized).jpg

#3218 5 years ago

And here is after.....lights are not at max brightness....

MMr_after (resized).jpgMMr_after (resized).jpg

#3219 5 years ago

Just curious but is there a need for cabinet leg protectors such as these on MMr?
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1403

I did not install any on my AFMr because there were metal plates/brackets where the legs were bolted on to protect the cabinet. Seems newer pins are doing this standard. Just thought I would see if anyone else felt the extra protection was warranted.

#3220 5 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Just curious but is there a need for cabinet leg protectors such as these on MMr?
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1403
I did not install any on my AFMr because there were metal plates/brackets where the legs were bolted on to protect the cabinet. Seems newer pins are doing this standard. Just thought I would see if anyone else felt the extra protection was warranted.

MMR was shipped with them already installed.

#3221 5 years ago

Thank you!

#3222 5 years ago

I'm planning on getting an mmr pretty soon. Should i try and find a gently used one or just buy one nib?

#3223 5 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

I'm planning on getting an mmr pretty soon. Should i try and find a gently used one or just buy one nib?

NIB. You can look for the shaker and DMD color chip on eBay and wait until there is an ebay 10, 15 or 20% on everything discount, that'll save you $100.

#3224 5 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

I'm planning on getting an mmr pretty soon. Should i try and find a gently used one or just buy one nib?

I would personally get a used LE. You can probably get one with the color upgrade and some mods for the same price as a new standard.

#3225 5 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

I'm planning on getting an mmr pretty soon. Should i try and find a gently used one or just buy one nib?

if you are making the run out to Wisconsin for MGC I will have 4 MMr standard editions set up in the booth with show pricing. Otherwise, I am sure one of the many distributors will have some at Allentown.

#3226 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I would personally get a used LE. You can probably get one with the color upgrade and some mods for the same price as a new standard.

I was thinking I would post an ad and if nothing popped up I’d just buy one new. I was planning on getting a shaker and color upgrade

#3227 5 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

I was thinking I would post an ad and if nothing popped up I’d just buy one new. I was planning on getting a shaker and color upgrade

Sounds good. With the strict pricing policies in place I would suggest finding a dealer you can trust and build a relationship with.

#3228 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I would personally get a used LE. You can probably get one with the color upgrade and some mods for the same price as a new standard.

I'm looking at getting a MMR in May and thought about going this route, but I believe I am deciding against it. Based on my research it seems to me one of the biggest advantages with going new is you know that the decals are installed better than the Stern built MMRs. Wasn't there also an issue with opacity of the black ink on the fields too? That would be avoided as well.

You guys correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that all of the limited games were built by Stern. I do not like that the decals are folded on top of each other on the front corners like all stern built games from back then. In my experience there are always air bubbles at those corners.

#3229 5 years ago

Replacing my flipper button, and when I went to put back the opto board, one of the three screws that goes into the cab is not holding. It just keeps turning.

Anything I can do?

MVIMG_20180407_180107 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20180407_180107 (resized).jpg

#3230 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Replacing my flipper button, and when I went to put back the opto board, one of the three screws that goes into the cab is not holding. It just keeps turning.
Anything I can do?

This stuff works well:

https://m.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=29330566&KPID=997246&cid=CAPLA:G:Shopping_-_Drive_to_Store&pla=pla_997246&k_clickid=1e0cc649-6377-4040-976b-f7e31ae72e1e&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImMbt8Zep2gIVEKZpCh2xxQYiEAQYASABEgJXdfD_BwE

Or you can glue some dowel in and re-drill the hole.

#3231 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Replacing my flipper button, and when I went to put back the opto board, one of the three screws that goes into the cab is not holding. It just keeps turning.
Anything I can do?

Toothpicks and glue. Toothpicks without glue would probably work too.

#3232 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Anything I can do?

Bamboo skewer with wood glue.

LTG : )

#3233 5 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I'm looking at getting a MMR in May and thought about going this route, but I believe I am deciding against it. Based on my research it seems to me one of the biggest advantages with going new is you know that the decals are installed better than the Stern built MMRs. Wasn't there also an issue with opacity of the black ink on the fields too? That would be avoided as well.
You guys correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that all of the limited games were built by Stern. I do not like that the decals are folded on top of each other on the front corners like all stern built games from back then. In my experience there are always air bubbles at those corners.

Yes, you have done your research and are correct. The CGC built MMr machines also come with the melamine covered cabinet like with AFMr. Great game either way though so you really can’t go wrong.

#3234 5 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

I'm looking at getting a MMR in May and thought about going this route, but I believe I am deciding against it. Based on my research it seems to me one of the biggest advantages with going new is you know that the decals are installed better than the Stern built MMRs. Wasn't there also an issue with opacity of the black ink on the fields too? That would be avoided as well.
You guys correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that all of the limited games were built by Stern. I do not like that the decals are folded on top of each other on the front corners like all stern built games from back then. In my experience there are always air bubbles at those corners.

If you're fine with getting a less-than-perfect pf, then nib is a great feel. However, this forum has shown over and over again you may get a machine with any one or more of a number of "potential" pf issues, such as chipping, ribbing, color variation, misaligned printing, bowing, etc. The AFMRLE owners thread recently went into overdrive because of playfield ribbing. There has been variability in what CGC and all other big manufacturers produce, pf-wise.

Considering that,... more and more members are reporting here they will be buying used moving forward, as buying used is king. You have the opportunity to literally inspect and see everything in detail before you buy. No surprises. I see lots of merit in that view. And yes, you also can literally check for the black ink insert opacity before you buy (there's no guarantee a new pin out of the box is free from the same flaw and variability in production...and obviously CGC does not warrant this for replacement).

And since you say that you are worried about decal folding, it sounds like you may really care about a perfect pf even more. It depends on your comfort level and expectations. There's lots of merit to buying used if any of the reported potential issues bother you. NIB is no guarantee of better/perfect.

#3235 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Replacing my flipper button, and when I went to put back the opto board, one of the three screws that goes into the cab is not holding. It just keeps turning.
Anything I can do?

I was going to suggest the toothpicks also..... that should work fine....

#3236 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Bamboo skewer with wood glue.
LTG : )

Can you expand a bit more on how that might work?

Thanks as always

#3237 5 years ago

Like this?

#3238 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Can you expand a bit more on how that might work?

Fills the hole with bamboo and glue. Thus making it like new wood with no hole. Then when you put the screw back in, it's tight again.

LTG : )

#3239 5 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I would personally get a used LE. You can probably get one with the color upgrade and some mods for the same price as a new standard.

This is true - I saw one semi locally to me that had this stuff installed for the price of a new standard. I passed and bought NIB. The reason being is that the person modded the crap out of the game. I didn’t want a game someone glued and wired lame toys to. Others love mods and it would have been a deal to them but man it looked like CRAP!

To each their own I guess. :-p

#3240 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Fills the hole with bamboo and glue. Thus making it like new wood with no hole. Then when you put the screw back in, it's tight again.
LTG : )

I have a few days old nib and had an issue with the flipper board. The screws are not tight from the factory. They hold but not a tight fit I think they are predrilling the holes too large. Going to fill mine.

#3241 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Fills the hole with bamboo and glue. Thus making it like new wood with no hole. Then when you put the screw back in, it's tight again.
LTG : )

Like bamboo toothpicks? Can you show me the bamboo you're referring to. And just wood glue?

#3242 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Like bamboo toothpicks? Can you show me the bamboo you're referring to. And just wood glue?

Bamboo skewers can be found all over during barbecue season. I prefer them to toothpicks. Harder, don't squish.

I grabbed ordinary wood glue from a hardware store. Brand was Tite Bond. And wood glue will work.

LTG : )

DSC00524 (resized).JPGDSC00524 (resized).JPG

#3243 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Like bamboo toothpicks? Can you show me the bamboo you're referring to. And just wood glue?

Regular bamboo skewers one would use for kabobs that you get at the grocery store.

Or just use a piece of a round toothpick placed on the hole with a little titebond glue on it.
I just cut off a piece 3/8 to 1/2" long with diagonals.
If one piece doesnt firm up the hole put 2 or 3.

This will be a permanent repair, it will last as long as the game will.

This is going to happen once in awhile, dont worry, this is the way to address it perfectly. Its not a hack.

#3244 5 years ago

Curious if anyone install an LED light strip for the backboard to light up the castle area. I noticed they come in a few different colors, but with the coloring in the back it seems blue or white would probably look the best.

#3245 5 years ago

I prefer purple with green in the spotlights. My phone camera washes it out quite a bit.

https://lermods.com/products/medieval-madness-mmr-pinball-led-strip-15-backboard-light-kit

medieval-madness-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light-kit (resized).jpgmedieval-madness-pinball-led-strip-backboard-light-kit (resized).jpg

#3246 5 years ago

Thanks! Purple does look nice. Your site mentions this color is best for darker applications. I assume this means arcades where the lights would be dim, basement where you play with lights low or off, etc. My pins would be in a lit area - any issue there?

#3247 5 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I prefer purple with green in the spotlights. My phone camera washes it out quite a bit.
https://lermods.com/products/medieval-madness-mmr-pinball-led-strip-15-backboard-light-kit

Is this light on all the time or does it flash with other lights?

#3248 5 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Curious if anyone install an LED light strip for the backboard to light up the castle area. I noticed they come in a few different colors, but with the coloring in the back it seems blue or white would probably look the best.

I've got a Blue strip of 6 LEDs that are tied to the GI above the castle to light up the background. I have also replaced the flasher domes on either side of the castle changed to purple. Spots onto the Castle have been changed to Warm White.

MMR Castle Playfield (resized).jpgMMR Castle Playfield (resized).jpg

#3249 5 years ago

Blue looks awesome; thank you!

#3250 5 years ago
Quoted from CosmoJoe:

Thanks! Purple does look nice. Your site mentions this color is best for darker applications. I assume this means arcades where the lights would be dim, basement where you play with lights low or off, etc. My pins would be in a lit area - any issue there?

It's purple/UV and I think works better in a darker application so we put that there. If you have a brighter room, blue looks very good too and is a strong color that lights the backboard well.

Quoted from Damien:

Is this light on all the time or does it flash with other lights?

Tied to gi. 15" strip.

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