i will get some speaker logos this week, again.

if you are interested let me know

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New MM delivered today.....

Great game......

Are there any tricks to prevent the ball from getting stuck behind the right troll ?

Bend the black angled tab behind it a little more, increase your playfield pitch.

Also check your left to right level, usually it’s a tad off to the right when that happens.

Yeah, when ball gets stuck behind right troll its tricky once it rolls off! Either SDTM or a tilt warning if I'm lucky to keep it in play!

I had the same issue described by damionrowe in this thread. It was also fixed by the fuse information posted by mschonbrun. Thank you both for posting here!

To recap in case it helps the next person:

I turned on my brand new (to me) MMR and heard a pop. The lights and sounds came on, and the start button started a game, but the ball would not eject into the plunger. The switch tests showed the ball eject switches were all opening and closing correctly. The solenoid tests showed that almost no solenoids were firing: no trough eject, no flippers, no auto plunger, no jets, etc. The only solenoids firing were for the ramps and the castle drawbridge.

This matched behavior others have described online, and the replies are always to check the F01 fuse in the power supply box in the front right of the cabinet. I saw/tested that the fuse was blown, and that the LED indicator for 50V power was off. I replaced the fuse, and the LED indicator did not initially turn on, and the solenoid tests did not initially pass. But this was because I had the coin door open, which intentionally interrupts this circuit. After closing the coin door, all tests passed and the game plays correctly again. So remember to close the door before you test.

The fuse is listed in the manual as 6.3A 250V slow blow. I ordered it and a variety of other fuses from mouser.com. Four days later, they still hadn't shipped, so I picked up a 6.3A 250V slow blow ceramic from Fry's Electronics. My local Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace, and Radio Shack do not carry 6.3A in store.

Every once in a while, the ball flies and lands on top of the plastic and under the ramp right in front of the catapult. Resulting in having to remove the glass to get it out. What are your solutions to this issue?

Lower the flipper strength a little. If its too low to make it up the ramp on a solid hit, lower your pitch a little with the slightly weaker flipper settings.
Play the game a lot and tweak as you go.

Hi guys was thinking about pulling the trigger and buying a new MMr Standard. I'm reading a lot of people complaining about the clear coat flaking away is this a problem from the earlier runs or are they still occurring today. If this was a Stern issue people would be demanding that there playfields be changed, has anyone confronted CGC about this problem and if so what was their response?

Buy one. Bullet proof it with protectors, especially Cliffy drain hole and shooter lane and castle hole, and mantis castle protector. Combo mantis and pinbits merlin protectors. Catapault Cliffy. No pf protector needed.

Buy it! CGC is an amazing company and will give way beyond excellent support with any issues you might have.
They and JJP have been a joy to work with on all occasions that I needed something, even out of warranty support!

Since the game is pretty much an exact duplicate mechanics-wise, the same wear areas exist faithful to the originals.

The only way to avoid chipping on clearcoat is to not clearcoat at all, but its diamond hard stuff and will last forever.
It just happens to be very brittle and any unprotected edge might chip given the right circumstances.
All brand new cars offer mylar tape for any exposed edges and clear-bras for this very reason.

You will not get a brand new car because the clearcoat chipped.
You will not get a new playfield because an edge chipped.

You, the end user is responsible for edge protection these days even if the manufacturer doesnt offer it.

Clearcoat chipping is a non-issue, install cliffys for edge protection and mylars if the manufacturer didnt put them on and your good for thousands of plays.

If you are curious about these things, ask a route operator what they did to "harden" their games.

With the pinbit Merlin protector is it harder to get in the scoop? I have all cliffys and the game plays great/same as stock. Not super worried but I do like to protect the game.

Not that I have noticed. The ring protectors lay flat.

I bought 20 keyed alike nice double bitted locks a long time ago. I swap whatever lock was on my pin when I got it with one of my keyed alike locks. Then when I sell it I just swap the original lock back into it. I only ever need one key for all my pins and the best part is I have 20 sets of back up keys.

Definitely buy it! I just unboxed one yesterday to go along with my AFMr LE. Glad to be in the club. Great game!

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I am a new member of the club. Just bought a lightly used (about 100 plays) MMr standard a few weeks back. I love the game and am enjoying it but have a question about the castle drawbridge.

When I first hit it and it comes down. It isn’t coming down all the way. It sticks partially up until it is subsequently hit several times. Last night and it seemed to be be worse than before and the ball would fly upwards off the playfield when hitting it and richoteting. Is this normal or does it sound like the drawbridge on my game is sticking and not operating properly?

Also, reading through these threads, can anyone a summary of what cliffys and/or other protectors I need to purchase (and where to get them) to protect the edges, playfield, etc.? These aren’t cheap so I want to get whatever I need to protect it.

It should come all the way down. Paging LTG

Thanks for the reply. The game has been this way since I bought it and I believe it is still under warranty. Would this be something that I have to fix on my own or one that should be covered by the warranty?

It’s probably just a simple adjustment. Lloyd should have an idea.

There's this thing called search ... and one can do it on the forum as well as within threads.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmmmr-playfield-protectors-list
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-protectors-mantis-or-cliffy

Not normal. I'd check the pivot points above the playfield by the drawbridge, and linkage below the playfield. Something is binding.

You might run it up and down a few times in drawbridge test to see if it loosens up any.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG. I'm still a pinball newbie when it comes to diagnosing and repairs but I appreciate the insight and will try to figure it out.

Is drawbridge test in the test settings? I'll try to check and see what I xan figure out tomorrow. My MMr had only been used 3-4 days at a small convention before I got it a few weeks back so kind of frustrated it came with this problem essentially out of the box.

Small adjustments are normal with pins, even nib. My machine did this exact same thing. Which I posted about, ran the test fiddled with the mech and it just started working. No diffinite answer to the repair but once you see where the gate starts to hang up with the glass off, you’ll get an idea on where to start

I had to take the right troll off to make a repair....
Is there some trick to put the springs back in place and then secure with the pin thingy ?
I'm having a very tough time doing the one one next to the ramp...

Thanks for any help..

Shelly

Yes. Under playfield disconnect the troll face switch. Remove the hex head bolt holding the troll to the plunger. ( see picture ) Wiggle troll off of plunger up and out and lean to the left so part on the left side that triggers the up/down switch clears the hole in the playfield.

Then you can work on the whole troll anywhere you want and easier to not lose spring or clip.

LTG : )

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Dammit Lloyd! Now I really feel like an idiot.
I've had to take out a troll twice to tighten a loose nut and I fiddled with those springs/clips for 30 min to get them back on.

I took the whole think out the bottom. I had to twist and wiggle and I guess I got lucky it came out. It was a pain to put it back in the same way. Lucky I didn't break it. Still works good

Don't feel bad. How do you think I learned ?

LTG : )

Hello,

I have a quick question about the ball gate on the right loop of MMr. When I got my game, this gate would stop all balls coming down from the pop bumpers and I had to do some adjusting to get the balls to come down to the flippers. However, sometimes this gate slows the ball down enough so when it comes through this gate, the ball is going so slow that it hits the top of the right slingshot rubber and sends the ball straight through the drain. I have thought about removing this gate as I don't see any purpose for it. Have you guys adjusted this gate? If so, what is the correct alignment for it? Also, what is the purpose of this gate? I have attached a photo pointing to the gate I'm talking about.

Thanks!

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Prevents STDM from the left orbit. I don't think I've ever had mine hit the slingshot. Are you sure you are perfectly level from left to right on the PF (not glass)?

Had some issues with mine as well. In the end I just adjusted the ball guide rail to the right off it, and no more drops to the slings.

My right troll just started having issues... pops up just fine but lowers pretty slowly. Not really sure what to look at underneath. Eventually it's probably just going to stay up.

It's probably just a little bent. Raise it grab a hold of it bend it back towards the back glass a tiny bit be careful don't cut yourself on the metal flap.

Do brand new MMR come with a goodie bag stapled inside? Mine didn't .

Nope. No goodie bag for MMr.

Thanks

It comes with a manual.

I got that.

Is there a difference between update 2.0.2 and 2.0.2a?

I don't believe so. I have the latest update in my game and in the CGC menu it comes up as 2.0.2

LTG : )

I am getting popouts on the catapult shot....

Sometimes it even happens when you hit the target in the back and get the gong....

Any adjustments available to not have this happen ?

The catapult shot is hard enough already....

Shelly

Isn’t there a 1way gate on it? See how the ball is getting back out. Huh. Weird, may have to take the glass off and use your fingers with the ball to monkey around with bounce outs

This can happen when the gate doesn't glide friction free and sticks up slightly. Fiddle with it until it does.

Experiencing the same issue. The gate slows the ball down and hits the top of the right slingshot too. I'm level with good pitch. Not sure how I should tweak the right ball guard rail.

I took a flathead screwdriver, and bent out the metal guide a drop.....

Misses the top of the sling now, and sets up nice for the next shot....

Just wedge the blade between the rubber post, and the edge of the metal guide, and then turn the blade a little.....to push out the metal....

This is what worked for me...

I did that to mine but you can only bend it a couple of mm or you will have a big gap between the post and the guide. Then a lane shot can hit the edge of the guide which is not good. I also found that the guide seems to go back to its original position after a few weeks of play and the problem comes back.

Recently I raised my rear legs increasing the playfield angle slightly. This helped but I still have some balls hit the top of right sling and go SDTM. This is a difficult adjustment to get right and has caused me plenty of frustration.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one experiencing this issue!

I'm not sure this is the issue. If I push up on the pin underneath it's pretty stiff right away. The left troll moves freely. I don't see anything up top that would be bent and stop it from moving freely.