Maybe use a paper clip. Toothpick could break off.

My right flipper is a hair low but I think it helps me hit the catapult shot so I haven't adjusted it.

I usually align them with a short straight edge from the lane guides to get the straight.

I use a drill bit that fits snug in the hole and is trapped under the rubber of the flipper for factory settings.

I've put in a ticket on this as well, but also wanted to ask here - do all Switches pretty much work the same? I got a replacement for a failed Switch, but it's the wrong "side". I'm wondering if I can just drill two new holes under the playfield and attach it? (photos attached).

I'm probably just going to wait for the replacement of the replacement part - but I thought I would ask for my "future" pinball repair skills when this goes out of warranty.

PartWrongSide (resized).jpg

Yes.

Yes. The switch won't care.

LTG : )

I can't really tell in your picture. Can you remove the switch and install on the other side of the bracket ?

LTG : )

Why not unscrew the switch from the bracket and reverse the sides (metal parts) ? If you don't know 100% what you are doing don't go adding new holes to a new playfield. Worse case call Chicago, or your distributor (Nitro? Tommy's awesome) they will help you out.

I agree, you shouldn’t have to drill new holes for a mount for a brand new game. Check with distro and/or cgc tech support

Awesome! Thanks everyone. I appreciate the advice. Being new, I didn't know how the switches worked and that they can be used interchangeably and remounted for left/right.

A while back (post #2818) I asked about an issue I was having with the ball not being ejected out of Merlin's hole. LTG had a good suggestion to put a washer between the bracket and playfield on the left side of Merlin's hole, lowering it a little so the ball sits in there better and kicks out better. I tried that but still had the issue (thanks much LTG for the suggestion though).

Pinsider member thePLAyNone messaged me and said he had a similar issue and resolved it by disconnecting the board that all the coils connect to... the small board on the right hand side of the big board under the playfield ( 4 screws, pull it all the way off), and reconnect it. Well, I am lazy so I just unplugged and reconnected all the plugs to the different coils in that area. That was over a week ago and 50+ game plays and the problem is solved!!!

Just wanted to share this in case others have the same issue, and to thank thePlayNone for the suggestion!

Cheers,
Mike

I can’t remember if I asked this before. My castle gate won’t open despite significant troubleshooting. I’m getting a new castle assembly ordered but in the mean time, can I just prop the gate open so we can keep playing? Will that hurt anything and will the castle register hits that way?

I’m gonna post this in the mm thread too as I assume it would react similarly.

Quick question... When you make an unsuccessful shot at Merlin, and it rolls back down the guide on the right side, does it bounce of the rubber post and go SDTM?

Mine doesn’t. Check level?

Perfectly set at 6.5 and 0.

I think the guide has moved from over 2000 plays.

Can anyone take a photo of the guide and post.

For future reference, I zip tied the gate up. It worked normally except it awarded a castle gate hit and a castle lock with each shot. So I went into feature adjustments and set castle gate broken to “yes” and it worked as it “should” (only awarding gate hit). So, if anyone develops a broken gate (won’t go up or stuck up), that adjustment will get you up and playing again while you wait for parts.

I just purchased my first machine in December...a NIB MMr from Gex in Denver. Glad to be a member of the club! After the initial setup (by Gex), the fam and I have played for a while, so I decided to do some adjustments to see what happens to game play. I've read a lot of threads about games needing to be setup "right" to play their best. I have a couple of questions about average game setup.

1) Regarding level, does your playfield read the same from top to bottom? When I first pulled the glass and checked the levels, side-to-side was between 0 and .2 on a digital inclinometer at various places on the playfield (obviously I may not have had it perfectly horizontal). But the vertical drop reads significantly differently from top to bottom. With the bubble at the thick line on the installed level, between the flippers reads 7 (using the stars horizontal line as a guide). In the castle alley it reads 6.5 (no horizontal frame of reference). In the middle of the field, between the trolls, it reads 6.8 Is that normal?

2) I've also played with raising the back legs so the bubble is two lines above standard. Inclinometer reads 7.2 at the top and 7.7 at the flippers. It really changed the game. Obviously it was faster, changed the shot angles off of the flippers, and made trapping tougher. It was fun, but I don't know if I like it better. I also increased the flipper power to one click above standard due to ramp fails. At the standard install, I had turned the flipper power down one click below standard. I felt that just played better. I haven't changed the outlanes, as I'm not trying to make the game easier. I'm just trying to find the "fun" sweet spot. Have any of you customized your settings to increase HUO "fun" (I know how subjective that term is, so I'd also like to hear your definition).

I always measure analog, with a bubble level and my good ol weighted inclinometer. Usually just from the PF center, right under the trolls. I play pretty steep and standard coil power. It's tough but fun!

Guys I'm stumped, my moat eject is not recognizing that's there is a ball in it. I've tried to adjust it from underneath, loosened the 2 screws and tried about every position imaginable. I got it work for a few games a week or so ago then tonight acting up again. Less then 200 plays on it. Created a ticket but pretty much told me to do this. No luck.

Under the playfield. The right popper bracket may be off a little, try bending it down gently. See if that works. I will attached picture

Replace the switch? Sometimes they're just bad.

Waiting to hear back from CGC anything, I'm sure they will get back to me today.

Please let me know what I should be looking for, mine is not ejecting. I've tried adjusting the bolts to different heights but that's not really doing anything.

Did you get this fixed, I'm having issues too. Seems like this is a very common fail

There is a black bracket under that area where the opto is. Did you try bending it down slightly and gently?

So while I have the table up in the air push down on the outside of the bracket slightly inward. That's what CGC had me do and I didn't see any change. I'll try to reposition it again and run a swith test. Last night it reported closed but once a ball was in it stays closed not open.

i will get some speaker grills in 2 weeks 2 grills $49,- + 15$ shipping

25507873_10210887588735507_3205664184716329377_n (resized).jpg

I bent mine towards the flippers if that makes any sense... so if the play field is up vertical you’d be bending up I guess. This resolved the issue for me without tinkering with anything else.

Is that "Williams" decal on all the MMrs or is that an add-on? That looks great

Adjusting the two nuts on the popper assembly initially fixed it for me, but then it started doing it again after a week or so. I returned the nuts to the original position, and found on the black popper assembly, the tab on the popper bracket that surrounds the ball when it lands on top of the plunger had a slight downward bend to it. Tried returning the tab to level and it did not work, then tried bending it lower than original (making the ball sit lower when resting on top of the plunger) and it fixed it.

Not sure why this adjustment was necessary, seems like the kickout may be getting worn as the shaft must not stick up as much as when new?

hi

i am sorry i have done the Williams logo only for my machine, i will not sell it

just the 2 grills i have designed

Can you post a picture of it to make the ball sit lower? Thanks

I'll try to take a picture of it tonight when I'm at home, but it might be hard to see without removing the whole popout assembly. From the playfield side, look at the hole where the ball sits in the moat before it gets ejected. You'll see the tip of the kicker, and around that the metal tab that the ball sits into. By bending the tab downward, in my case it allowed the ball to be seen better by the optical switch.

OK Update
I pushed the popper in and loosened the nuts and tried various heights and it didn't work, I pulled the pooper out towards the outside of the cabinet and left the adjustment at the lowest setting and the game has worked for 1 hour without any problems... WHEW! Thanks for all the help guys!

Glad to hear its working! With me, once I thought I had it fixed, it acted up again until I bent this tab down. In case you need, here's a pic showing the tab I was referring to. Mine had a slight downward bend (away from playfield), and bending it downward a bit more did the trick. I'm trying to figure out after 500 plays why it suddenly became a problem. Seems like it would have needed to be bent in the opposite direction....

CCF_000013.pdf

I saw that ring, when looking at it before I bent the popper the opto was really off center. Seems like a bad design if you ask me.

Hello, my MMR is only a few months old. When I shoot the skill shot or the ‘right to left’ orbit shot, the ball comes off the metal rail and almost drains down the middle. It’s gotten worse and worse. It should come off the metal rail and go to the left flipper. I’ve examined the metal rail where the ball comes off and don’t notice anything wrong or bent? Is anyone else having this issue? Or know what to do to fix it? Btw, the table is level and pitched correctly.

Yep my right one is a PITA and the ball will touch the top of right sling without activating then the bottom of left also without activating and SDTM. I nudge to try to stop it but I should not have to, I have adjusted the right guide but it seems to just go back after a number of games. If I bend it out further the ball will hit the edge on a right loop.

Seems the only solution would be to move the guide and the post, but that isn't gunna happen.

Can anyone confirm on their machine, is there mylar around the pops from the factory?
I feel like there are, but on AFMR I'm not so sure.

My MMR has factory mylar between the pops

Thanks!

Just added a topper to my MM. I am really liking the look and the LED speaker lights.

IMG_7105 (resized).jpg

what speaker lights are you using?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-color-code#post-4183985

you need some speaker grills now

i have 1 kit left

$49 + 15 shipping

25507873_10210887588735507_3205664184716329377_n (resized).jpg

Anyone know the specs on the post stud that secures the damsel ramp to the sling plastic on that side? The post stud is threaded on both ends and appears to be 1 3/8 6/32, threads into the playfield thru a red plastic post. It broke as I was wrenching the 6/32 nylock nut to secure the ramp. Can this be had at a hardware store or need to get it thru a pinball supplier? Thanks!

You can get it from McMasterCarr much cheaper

Is the spec correct?

I am not 100% sure and I don’t have a simple way to check for a while. Maybe you could ask CGC or LTG to confirm the part?

I believe that it is Williams P/N 02-4425-1 which is 8-32 x 2 3/8 with a 5/16 drive nut. That's the post stud for the damsel ramp at the right side sling plastic.

hi i played the video mode „save the children“. although i had not before the catapult 3 times with hitting the cows - the cows in the video mode appeared. why? does someone know or had the same experience?

ralf