(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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There are 4623 posts in this topic. You are on page 58 of 93.
#2851 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

In the test mode, the opto is not seeing the ball. Game play consistently has to do ball search to eject it. I plugged/unplugged the connector several times....no change. Do I have a bad opto switch?

This switch should be always closed ( its an opto ) when ball pass's through it should be open. If its open all the time its most likely an opto or a bad solder joint on one. I had one that was bad from day 1 on my MMR.

#2852 1 year ago

Hoping that the speaker/larger DMD upgrade kit they have supplies the same speakers as AFMR a they are superb.

#2853 1 year ago

I already posted two fixes, only one of which was subsequently noted.

#2854 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Hello,
I'm having an intermittent issue with my moat eject, and I'm hoping someone can help out. When the ball is in the moat, it occasionally does not eject until it goes into ball search mode, then it kicks out. Seems to becoming more regular.
I've checked and cleaned the optical sensor, checked solder connections, unplugged/replugged the sensor plug and the solenoid plug, and nothing seems to effect it. We've noticed that if we tap on the playfield before it goes into ball search mode, sometimes it will work to eject it, which suggests something is loose somewhere. I just can't spot anything.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

I am having the same issue out of the box with mine
My catapult also sometimes isn’t strong enough to get the ball up and around, sometimes it falls back in or barely makes it to the ramp
Any thoughts

#2855 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Hello,
I'm having an intermittent issue with my moat eject, and I'm hoping someone can help out. When the ball is in the moat, it occasionally does not eject until it goes into ball search mode, then it kicks out. Seems to becoming more regular.
I've checked and cleaned the optical sensor, checked solder connections, unplugged/replugged the sensor plug and the solenoid plug, and nothing seems to effect it. We've noticed that if we tap on the playfield before it goes into ball search mode, sometimes it will work to eject it, which suggests something is loose somewhere. I just can't spot anything.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!

Wanted to share with everyone that I figured out a solution. I adjusted the popper downward about 3/16", and now the ball is able to be seen by the optical switch. Photo attached. You can see from the marks the nuts left from the factory, it was originally set all the way up. Weird that it worked up until now, my game had about 500 plays on it before this problem started. Hope others find this useful.

mmr L popper (resized).JPG

#2857 1 year ago

I receive a Medieval Madness topper from laseriffic and I don't know how to hook it up. I purchased it from Cointaker. I don't think they sent the cord to hook it up to the machine. There was nothing on the site that said I needed to purchase an additional cord. The picture shows the only cord that was attached to it. Any help would be appreciated!

MMr topper connection (resized).jpg

#2858 1 year ago
Quoted from Dodgefolks:

Thank you, I'm a few months away from getting my MMR, but I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas!

Me too buddy! Been following the thread since June or so, finally ready to pull the trigger next month. Can't wait!

#2859 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

I receive a Medieval Madness topper from laseriffic and I don't know how to hook it up. I purchased it from Cointaker. I don't think they sent the cord to hook it up to the machine. There was nothing on the site that said I needed to purchase an additional cord. The picture shows the only cord that was attached to it. Any help would be appreciated!

Love the shoes

#2860 1 year ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

I receive a Medieval Madness topper from laseriffic and I don't know how to hook it up. I purchased it from Cointaker. I don't think they sent the cord to hook it up to the machine. There was nothing on the site that said I needed to purchase an additional cord. The picture shows the only cord that was attached to it. Any help would be appreciated!

Did you disclose that you needed the topper for a MMr? The cable should be long enough to hook up to your power supply terminals in the bottom of the cabinet. I would call Chris Marquette at Cointaker and he probably can hook you up. I personally use a secondary power supply and splitter board for my mods but you should be able to hook up right to your power supply by hooking into the positive and ground terminals.

pasted_image (resized).png

#2861 1 year ago
Quoted from hillbilly:

Did you disclose that you needed the topper for a MMr? The cable should be long enough to hook up to your power supply terminals in the bottom of the cabinet. I would call Chris Marquette at Cointaker and he probably can hook you up. I personally use a secondary power supply and splitter board for my mods but you should be able to hook up right to your power supply by hooking into the positive and ground terminals.

They emailed me back and said that the cable should have been in the box. It wasn't. I will get them to send me one. Thanks for all the help!

#2862 1 year ago
Quoted from hillbilly:

Did you disclose that you needed the topper for a MMr? The cable should be long enough to hook up to your power supply terminals in the bottom of the cabinet. I would call Chris Marquette at Cointaker and he probably can hook you up. I personally use a secondary power supply and splitter board for my mods but you should be able to hook up right to your power supply by hooking into the positive and ground terminals.

Can it be hooked up to V+ and V- ?

#2863 1 year ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Can it be hooked up to V+ and V- ?

I have my topper (12v) hooked up using the V+ and V- and it works great.

#2864 1 year ago

Hello all - loving my MMR and I’m about 200 games into it. Some minor issues that I’m in the middle of resolving, but one major one that I’m wondering if anyone has advice on.

In the video above, you can see that my machine is looping the “lost ball” flasher on the back glass and goes into search mode when it drains. This happens during the entire game play. As soon as I launch and put a ball into the castle trough, the lightening “cow” flasher starts flashing and making the pulsing sounds. This continues through the entire ball. When it drains, it sometimes takes awhile, awards the bonus, and ejects that next ball. Other times, it takes while, initiates a full ball search and then completes.

I’m wondering if anyone has had this issue and found a fix? My initial thought is that there is a sensor inside the trough that isn’t tripping and acknowledging a ball. I really appreciate any help that anyone can provide.

#2865 1 year ago

I picked up my MMr yesterday! Everything seems to be running in tip/top shape. However, I wanted to check to see if the emulator software needed an update: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php is there a way to check to see what version the emulator software is running at? At startup I only see 'Ye Olde Medieval Madness' logo and 'LOADING'. (btw, I'm just assuming that it is an emulator please correct me if I am misunderstanding the architecture)

#2866 1 year ago
Quoted from jaystile:

I picked up my MMr yesterday! Everything seems to be running in tip/top shape. However, I wanted to check to see if the emulator software needed an update: http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php is there a way to check to see what version the emulator software is running at? At startup I only see 'Ye Olde Medieval Madness' logo and 'LOADING'. (btw, I'm just assuming that it is an emulator please correct me if I am misunderstanding the architecture)

I just did this and I forgot hahah.

If you go to the menu I know you can find it. There are versions listed for software, dmd software etc.

The new version should be on a nib game.

Here is the manual
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf

Page 31
Hold escape for ~4 seconds and you will get a cgc menu and that should list the software versions

180353BC-A4A4-404B-B6C5-77346DE99FCC (resized).png

#2867 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I just did this and I forgot hahah.
If you go to the menu I know you can find it. There are versions listed for software, dmd software etc.
The new version should be on a nib game.
Here is the manual
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf
Page 31
Hold escape for ~4 seconds and you will get a cgc menu and that should list the software versions

Thank you! That was exactly what I was looking for. It looks like I'm running very 2.0.1, so it is time for an update.

#2868 1 year ago
Quoted from hillbilly:

Did you disclose that you needed the topper for a MMr? The cable should be long enough to hook up to your power supply terminals in the bottom of the cabinet. I would call Chris Marquette at Cointaker and he probably can hook you up. I personally use a secondary power supply and splitter board for my mods but you should be able to hook up right to your power supply by hooking into the positive and ground terminals.

I do the same and have a secondary power supply for mods etc.

#2869 1 year ago

Is it normal for the open drawbridge to sometimes briefly raise when the ball rolls over it? When it happens, gate hits don't register. It happens less than 10% of the time.

#2870 1 year ago
Quoted from mamefan:

Is it normal for the open drawbridge to sometimes briefly raise when the ball rolls over it? When it happens, gate hits don't register. It happens less than 10% of the time.

As far as I know, it should not. LTG replied to me about something similar within the last month or so, so you should be able to skip back a page or two and find it.

#2871 1 year ago

Quick question... I played a CGC build the other day, and I just felt like the game was slightly more solid than my LE. Maybe it's all in my head. Maybe it's because the game was new out of the box.

Is this all in my crazy head, or are they doing a better job putting these things together now that it's all under CGC's control?

Also, not sure if I heard this right, but I could bet that I heard the swearing in the game. It was not bleeped out.

Again, am I going mad, or did they add this recently?

#2872 1 year ago

I have an LE, but I got mine so late, I'm not sure if it was built at CGC or stern...but ugh...it feels so so good. The quality on this mmr, gives me no hesitation to buy any other game they remake or recommend them. My gosh is it gorgeous.

#2873 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I have an LE, but I got mine so late, I'm not sure if it was built at CGC or stern...but ugh...it feels so so good. The quality on this mmr, gives me no hesitation to buy any other game they remake or recommend them. My gosh is it gorgeous.

Does your game have the F word, or a bleep?

#2874 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does your game have the F word, or a bleep?

MMR's have a bleep.

LTG : )

#2875 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

MMR's have a bleep.
LTG : )

Hmmmmmmmmm... I think I'm starting to hear things then! Do you know how I can fix that?

Also, do you know if there are any plans to add the F word, and maybe a parental on/off setting? Would definitely be awesome!

#2876 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Hmmmmmmmmm... I think I'm starting to hear things then! Do you know how I can fix that?

more booze will help.

#2877 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Quick question... I played a CGC build the other day, and I just felt like the game was slightly more solid than my LE. Maybe it's all in my head. Maybe it's because the game was new out of the box.
Is this all in my crazy head, or are they doing a better job putting these things together now that it's all under CGC's control?

I think CGC is using an improved melamine covered cabinet for MMr like they do for AFMr now that they are assembling it. Not sure if this could account for a slight difference in feel or not. Great game either way!

“The game's cabinetry has been greatly improved. Both the cabinet and backbox are manufactured with melamine clad plywood. Melamine is 10 times more scratch resistant than traditional lacquer finishes. The original fiberboard cabinet bottom has been replaced with a ½" plywood bottom - significantly improving the strength of the cabinet and providing added protection for the cashbox.”

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/afm.php

#2878 1 year ago

MMR has a plywood bottom for sure. CGC made the cabinets for all MMRs, Sterns assembly is an implementation detail...

All the parts still originated from CGC.

#2879 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

MMR has a plywood bottom for sure. CGC made the cabinets for all MMRs, Sterns assembly is an implementation detail...
All the parts still originated from CGC.

Yes, all the remakes have plywood bottoms but I don’t think the older MMRs have the melamine covered cabinet. If they did they probably would have touted it in the original product description like they are currently doing with AFMr. A few months back this came up and a member said that his older MMr had a standard cabinet without the melamine. Again, I don’t know if this could account for a perceived difference or not, just mentioning it as a possibility.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/46#post-3948087

#2880 1 year ago

the cabinets for MMR and AFMR are different, my MMR made by Stern. I'll take some pictures of the differences tomorrow.

#2881 1 year ago

My MMR was made by CGC and has melamine

#2882 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does your game have the F word, or a bleep?

bleep/beep, however he gets the f and maybe part of a u out.

#2883 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

do you know if there are any plans to add the F word,

No.

LTG : )

#2884 1 year ago

Yeah, I asked about the swear rom before it was made and never heard a real answer from Rick, so I assumed no :/ Wish they would of put a adult mode in the code like stern.

#2885 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

My MMR was made by CGC and has melamine

I have MMR #1645 that was built by CGC and it also has a melamine cab

JMR

#2886 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Yeah, I asked about the swear rom before it was made and never heard a real answer from Rick, so I assumed no :/ Wish they would of put a adult mode in the code like stern.

MMR doesn't have ROMs. And PPS/CGC can't add swear words into Williams code.

LTG : )

#2887 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

MMR doesn't have ROMs. And PPS/CGC can't add swear words into Williams code.
LTG : )

Sounds like a job for Pinball Browser..

#2888 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

MMR doesn't have ROMs. And PPS/CGC can't add swear words into Williams code.
LTG : )

Technically, it's in there already.
The unbleeped one and the bleeped one are in the sound ROMs. The game ROM points to one of the two. The 'hack' ROM was just changed by someone modifying the address to the sound call, to call the unedited one. (Amongst other changes, I believe..)

BUT - unless PPS/CGC had the original dev machines and source, and way to recompile it all, they couldn't get that ROM into the filesystem that this platform uses. Because of licensing, they likely can NOT use the hacked ROM out there.

#2889 1 year ago
Quoted from JJHLH:

Yes, all the remakes have plywood bottoms but I don’t think the older MMRs have the melamine covered cabinet. If they did they probably would have touted it in the original product description like they are currently doing with AFMr. A few months back this came up and a member said that his older MMr had a standard cabinet without the melamine. Again, I don’t know if this could account for a perceived difference or not, just mentioning it as a possibility.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/46#post-3948087

I have both an original MMR and an AFMr. Not sure how to tell the cabinet differences to be honest.

#2890 1 year ago

Both the censored and uncensored callouts are in the MMr firmware. The game rom is simply pointing at the censored callout. If you open the firmware and rename the uncensored sample S044E_C6.wav to S044D_C6.wav, it will enable the callout.

#2891 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I have both an original MMR and an AFMr. Not sure how to tell the cabinet differences to be honest.

Yes I’m not sure either. Running your hand over the decals on both does the AFMr feel smoother?

#2892 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

MMR doesn't have ROMs. And PPS/CGC can't add swear words into Williams code.
LTG : )

Why wreck my hopes and dreams! I just yell the f word any way

#2893 1 year ago

I think the bleep makes it funnier.

#2894 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

As far as I know, it should not. LTG replied to me about something similar within the last month or so, so you should be able to skip back a page or two and find it.

I saw your post about the drawbridge not sitting flush. I think mine sits flush. It only raises a quarter of an inch as the ball goes over it and falls back down. No gate hit registered.

#2895 1 year ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

I have MMR #1645 that was built by CGC and it also has a melamine cab
JMR

I have #1641.

#2896 1 year ago

Pretty funny when you come home and your wife says "don't touch the game, I'm having a killer game and have one ball left that I'm going to play after kiddo goes to bed".

#2897 1 year ago

Hi guys tonight when playing MMR ( about 200 plays on it since bought new ) and after the ball falls in the moat, or enters it through the castle gate or ball lock it's not ejecting anymore. It will go into the ball search mode and eject it. New to owning machines what should I be looking for to adjust. It's a opto sensor correct? TROUGH EJECT 31 reports closed. Should that say open?

#2898 1 year ago

It should be open when a ball is present. Get under the playfield and take a look; make sure it’s plugged in firmly, etc.

#2899 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

It should be open when a ball is present. Get under the playfield and take a look; make sure it’s plugged in firmly, etc.

Ok it looks fine from underneath. So interesting issue, If I turn the lights on in my basement and play it works. If I turn the lights off or really dim it seems to work 3 out of 10 times.

#2900 1 year ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Ok it looks fine from underneath. So interesting issue, If I turn the lights on in my basement and play it works. If I turn the lights off or really dim it seems to work 3 out of 10 times.

Sounds like your transmitter opto is flaky......

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