I just submitted a ticket and edited my post to better describe the problem, it's the Moat Bridge that is not lowering - the castle gate is working fine.

Will be interesting to see what they come back with as to me it seems to be a design flaw, I would prefer the shaft to have a spline, but they won't be able to supply that.

I believe the part is unchanged from the original design. Let us know what you find out from CGC.

It’s not MMr but my MMr’s cousin show d up today

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This.

LTG : )

Well family usually shows up for the holidays!

...but it IS better cold?

Yep I searched this issue and found no other people having the same problem so obviously it's not common, still it would never happen with a spline or square like other pinballs have in similar mechs.

MMR Rocks!!

Had to say it again!

Sounds like you simply got unlucky and your friends saved the day.

Marc

Ticket answered, apparently this has only happened to 3 other machines (I wonder how many also had it happen but didn't report it?) and "there is no more robust solution"

I think what he meant was that CGC don't have a more robust solution, other games do have a better design for these shafts and cogs but MMR does not.

It was suggested that I contact my distributor for a spare part, I think I will do that and store it away in case this gets worse in future.

Yes I agree I did get unlucky, but I was the unlucky victim of a poor design.

MM doesn't either.

LTG : )

Williams poor design, not CGCs. This is the same part as on the original game; the mechanical parts are all the same.

Williams poor design, not CGCs. This is the same part as on the original game; the mechanical parts are all the same.

Copying the poor design of that part just because that is the way the original was is not a great decision by CGC IMO, nor is it a good excuse. It's still a great machine, this would not be a deal breaker for anyone, but clearly CGC was remiss in not upgrading this particular part to be as reliable as other games with similar mechs that have splines on the shaft. I image MANY original MM games have had this part fail over the years if some HUO remakes are failing already.

The techs looked at the slipping cog in my game all could not believe that it had been made that way with the cog just pushed onto the shaft.

I don't want to go on and on about it, it's just the lack of acceptance of any fault by CGC in this case is frustrating, I expected such though.

I have a MM since it came out and never had an issue with this.Or recall anyone else having an issue with it.

You are kidding, right. They never heard of anyone having an issue with it. You did. Wayne ? will give you a new part.

LTG : )

I agree with LTG on this one. I think one failure is an overreaction. I agree the design is poor for all applications, but for this application, it seems to suffice. With a rare exception. You can never engineer for 100%. Sound like they got 99.9% and that is about right.

Finally had time to put my powder coated parts on MMr, got these at the Chicago pinball expo, figured they would look good and i was right!

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That looks really good, do you know the color?

I don't unfortunately.. not even sure if i grabbed the contact info for the guy i bought it from at the show. I was shocked at how well it matched though.

I tried the AR-1 anti-rattle tape from PP, seems to make zero difference before and after. Cannot recommend it, it costs a lot, when my trolls come up, glass rattles as much as before.

Do the plastic protectors on pinbits for MM fit MMR?

Yes.

LTG : )

Wow. It totally fixed mine. Maybe turn your shaker down.

It's on low/minimum already, the shaker strength.

You can also try rotating the weights to make the shaker less strong if it’s bothering you.

It's only when the trolls come up, the catapault and castle explosions are fine.

Interesting. Need to think about what that is. Is it the duration of the shake?

Yeah, my troll shake is a good bit stronger. Too strong.

My troll shake brings all the boys to the yard.

Can anyone who put the anti-rattle tape on post a quick photo to show what the application looks like.

As of right now I have one of the weights totally removed. I think I will be sending both of them to my buddy who has a lathe to remove half the mass but no length off the weight..... its still strong but MUCH better.

Ok, I haven't looked inside a shaker lately, but I thought it was the balance or imbalance that made it shake. Won't removing one of the weights make it shake that much worse? If you want it to shake less, as others have said, you adjust the weights equally toward the center so that they are more balanced around the center of mass when rotating. The imbalance would seem to be a function of both the mass and the length (distance of rotation) for the two weights. So if you want the smoothest shake, but still maintaining something, I would think you'd want to do the same to both weights. Just theorizing here, as I haven't looked inside my shaker lately. I do have one waiting to be installed on my Tron, so maybe I'll open it up and look a bit closer.

You guys crack me up... the shaker is not that strong...

Ever play a Road Show? THAT's a strong shaker

Well it's about a construction site so that makes sense....

There is no weight adjustment on the CG shaker. Removing one weight lessens the mass buy 50%. Ideally I would like to install a PWM controller . It slows down the motor to give more shake and less RATTLE.

I just installed pinstadium lights on my MMR remake. You can see the before and after. This is truly an incredible product. I got the UV lighted set up. You should see what it looks like when you destroy the castle. I highly recommend this if you have an MMR

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So this is my Aerosmith with shaker motor. The flipper fidelity speakers are on full blast with bass. I had to get the tape it was a rattle nightmare. What a difference the tape made. Beware though, the glass comes flying out when you unlock the bar. It makes contact with the glass and the rails very slick.

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Thanks for posting the pics. Did you get the tape from Pinbits?

This is where I got it recently.

http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=2546

Pinball Pro is where i ordered from

For previous MM original owners, what flipper strength on MMR feels most like the original game?

Tried tonight and -2 and it definitely feels different.

I'm at 7 degree playfield pitch and like -2 the best. No problem making any shots at all. Not sure how that compares to a newly rebuilt original mm, but -2 feels best to me on mine. I've played plenty of originals in the wild where it was nearly impossible to make the damsel shot.

How tough is it for you to make the Catapult shot?

Catapult shot is by far the most difficult shot to make. Extremely difficult to make intentionally with a cradled ball on the right flipper. What are your thoughts on that? Do you find a certain playfield pitch or flipper strength setting changes the difficulty of the shot? Thanks. Mike

I recently replaced my coil sleeves, and set the flipper (no rubber) against a drill bit in the alignment hole. Not sure if it is now slightly higher or lower than my previous setting, but the shot is much harder to make off a cradle on the right flipper.

I also pulled the slingshot switches out, straightened them (the were completely bent) and now I find the ball rarely bounces out of the slings into the catapult (the game used to gift e those sometimes).

I have my pf set to 6.7 (measured with a small digital inclinometer) right in the centre of the pf in alignment with where the bubble level is. When I put a ruler across the top of the slings, and place the inclinometer there, I get 6.5.

I'm still uncertain of where people would say the "true" measurement should be taken. Seems most people garage above the slings, but this is to in line with where the games bubble level is reading (which maybe also be why a lot of people say that bubble level is inaccurate).

Default seems fine to me, but I'm pretty steep.

The flipper feel on my OG MM was so damn weird from the years of wear and rebuilds that I don't know that I'd want my MMR to feel the "same" I just want it to feel "right" and it does.

I had to do it twice. Then it worked.

Meaning two layers of tape?

Not sure if this has been discussed, but is it normal to see so much of the wood grain on the playfield through the graphics?

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So you're saying it's just scotch tape? j/k