(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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There are 4734 posts in this topic. You are on page 52 of 95.
#2551 2 years ago

Thanks for posting that. That’s what I just did to my game. They were a little longer and the new ones plus the rebuild after 2 years has made the game very snappy.

#2552 2 years ago

Interesting, thanks for the link!

I know the different coil *stops* can cause a huge difference, as well, which is why I thought of that first.

#2553 2 years ago

Does anyone know if there is a good 12v location to tap off from inside the backbox? I wanted to mount an LED strip in the back above the castle.

Thanks!

#2554 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Does anyone know if there is a good 12v location to tap off from inside the backbox? I wanted to mount an LED strip in the back above the castle.
Thanks!

I ran a 2-wire cable from the 6.3V LED Strip at the edge of the backbox passthru, along the wire harness to the playfield, wire-tied it, and soldered it to the GI near the castle. I wanted it to go off/on with the GI.

#2555 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I ran a 2-wire cable from the 6.3V LED Strip at the edge of the backbox passthru, along the wire harness to the playfield, wire-tied it, and soldered it to the GI near the castle. I wanted it to go off/on with the GI.

Thanks for the details AUKraut. The strip I have is 12v so I'll need to tap something other than GI, plus I'd ideally want this to stay on constant rather than flash. I suppose worse case I can trace back some wires from the front coin door LEDs that are 12V and work my way back to the backbox.

#2556 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Thanks for the details AUKraut. The strip I have is 12v so I'll need to tap something other than GI, plus I'd ideally want this to stay on constant rather than flash. I suppose worse case I can trace back some wires from the front coin door LEDs that are 12V and work my way back to the backbox.

The game has a switching power supply. Any reason you can't just wire to that (putting a fuse in line just to be extra safe with these expensive boards...)

#2557 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Thanks for the details AUKraut. The strip I have is 12v so I'll need to tap something other than GI, plus I'd ideally want this to stay on constant rather than flash. I suppose worse case I can trace back some wires from the front coin door LEDs that are 12V and work my way back to the backbox.

Understand....the reason I went with getting a 6.3v strip was for the GI, as I didn’t want the strip to drown out the flashing around the castle when it gets destroyed. Food for thought....

You do have 12V in the back box at J1 on the main board if I remember correctly, that is where I attached my speaker lights. Do be careful to not mess up the MB by mistake....

#2558 2 years ago

Naive question of the day. Does MMR require any mods for avoiding battery leakage?

#2559 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Naive question of the day. Does MMR require any mods for avoiding battery leakage?

No batteries

#2560 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Does MMR require any mods for avoiding battery leakage?

No. The tiny board in the head has one of the round batteries. Not known to leak. And last a long time.

LTG : )

#2561 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Understand....the reason I went with getting a 6.3v strip was for the GI, as I didn’t want the strip to drown out the flashing around the castle when it gets destroyed. Food for thought....
You do have 12V in the back box at J1 on the main board if I remember correctly, that is where I attached my speaker lights. Do be careful to not mess up the MB by mistake....

Thanks,
I ended up using the 12V rail (Yellow and Black) that powers the LCD rather than jumping right to the motherboard. This worked out great. I also decided to pull my LCD data/ribbon cable out from being fed behind the mainboard (resulting in a super cramped/bent fit)
and now it sits in front of everything and so far, my display has worked on every boot of the game (3 tests and counting)

CGC and Lloyd were super helpful as always, and they have a data cable being shipped out to me as of this afternoon (I opened the case sunday) talk about great customer service!

#2562 2 years ago

Sometimes, I'll get a ball all the way inside the castle gate or in the lock wall, and it won't trigger anything and will get ejected like nothing happened. Any ideas?

#2563 2 years ago

Micro switch under the moat. Follow wires and reseat connector a couple times. Be sure it is on tight. May need adjusting.

LTG : )

#2564 2 years ago
Quoted from mamefan:

Sometimes, I'll get a ball all the way inside the castle gate or in the lock wall, and it won't trigger anything and will get ejected like nothing happened. Any ideas?

I think also after the first castle multiball, instead of 3 you have to lock 6.

I thought something was off as well but then looked up the rules here:
http://pinball.org/rules/medievalmadness.html

"Castle Multiball is started with shots to the Lock in the Castle. For the first multiball, 3 shots are required; for successive multiballs, 6 shots are required"

#2565 2 years ago

Right, one to lite the lock, and one to lock the lock, times three!

#2566 2 years ago

Hi all. Here is my first real problem with MMr. My castle gate won’t raise up anymore (after hundreds of plays). Switches seem to be working (optos trigger in test and in play). Gate feels very heavy/sticky. Like it’s binding. I can slide it up and down manually but it feels like rough metal on metal. During play, with the glass off, when I manually start lifting the gate, at about 3/4 the way up, it will snap/glide to the full up position and stay up. If I then send a ball through, it’s snaps back down and scores the castle destruction as normal.

When I lifted the playfield, I found this spring stuck to the magnet of the speaker (maybe not in this exact position, but close). Could that spring be related? See pic.

Any suggestions? I was thinking clean the gate and whatever it slides in, but it looks complicated to get it apart...

5C93D86B-3EBD-41A5-8551-FEFA7B25BC1E (resized).jpeg

#2567 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Any suggestions?

Please check if it goes up and down by hand smoothly. If not, you'll need to figure where it is binding. Maybe the collar holding the plunger to the gate ?

LTG : )

#2568 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Please check if it goes up and down by hand smoothly. If not, you'll need to figure where it is binding. Maybe the collar holding the plunger to the gate ?
LTG : )

Thanks LTG! I’ll check. I can’t seem to find where the friction is coming from. I would guess that’s the problem. Any ideas on the spring? Is the gate and the “frame” it glides in supposed to be a metal on metal slide?

#2569 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is the gate and the “frame” it glides in supposed to be a metal on metal slide?

Yes.

LTG : )

#2570 2 years ago

I wonder if anyone could point me to some disassembly instructions for getting down to the point I can clean the gate and the channels it slides in?

#2571 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I wonder if anyone could point me to some disassembly instructions for getting down to the point I can clean the gate and the channels it slides in?

The coil/bracket for the gate - you can gently push or pull and see if it improves.

No real instructions. Castle front off, metal floor of castle off. From underside of playfield remove gate draw bridge assembly.

LTG : )

#2572 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hi all. Here is my first real problem with MMr. My castle gate won’t raise up anymore (after hundreds of plays). Switches seem to be working (optos trigger in test and in play). Gate feels very heavy/sticky. Like it’s binding. I can slide it up and down manually but it feels like rough metal on metal. During play, with the glass off, when I manually start lifting the gate, at about 3/4 the way up, it will snap/glide to the full up position and stay up. If I then send a ball through, it’s snaps back down and scores the castle destruction as normal.
When I lifted the playfield, I found this spring stuck to the magnet of the speaker (maybe not in this exact position, but close). Could that spring be related? See pic.
Any suggestions? I was thinking clean the gate and whatever it slides in, but it looks complicated to get it apart...

My gate would not go up and I found that the bolt was laying in the bottom of the cabinet. The bolt connects the gate to the coil plunger.

#2573 2 years ago

On the right side, the front most flasher dome, it's tied to an LED underneath the plastic that has a man in a tower.
When I look through that hole, there doesn't seem to be anything covering it (just an exposed tri LED like in the flasher domes)
This is super disorienting while playing, and was just curious if I'm missing a cover there by chance?

#2574 2 years ago

About to install the Cliffy for the hole on the inside of the castle. There are two screws that need removing to get the Cliffy in, but it's covered by a plastic with a flasher attached to it.

What's the best way to get everything off so I can get the Cliffy in?

#2575 2 years ago

One screw at a time.

#2576 2 years ago

Does anyone know if the LEDs have the capacity to brighter? The more I play AFM, the more I realize how dim the game is in comparison. Even if I had an option to go brighter, I'd probably stick with the current setting, but I was curious to know if this was a possibility with programming. Maybe a future code could also one more lighting setting, and an adult option that would allow us to turn the Fan word on!

#2577 2 years ago

Agreed about the brightness. I play in the dark and overall brightness has always been the one thing that's bugged me about my MMR. It's pricey, but I slapped a Pin-Stadium kit on mine and it made an amazing difference. I have a before and after a page or two back.

#2578 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

About to install the Cliffy for the hole on the inside of the castle. There are two screws that need removing to get the Cliffy in, but it's covered by a plastic with a flasher attached to it.
What's the best way to get everything off so I can get the Cliffy in?

I did this recently, actually have the mantis underside and cliffy topside. It is a lot of work. But essential. If you have 1600 plays on your game as you mentioned without it, you can see the cracked clear on the back of the hole and probably the underside edge of the playfield there getting rounded.

Take pictures and label the nuts\washers etc as you disassemble.

1. Take off the castle turrets, one screw in each.
2. Lift the front of the castle out.
3. Take the red flasher cap off, the one between the catapult wireform and the castle hole. Also I took out the little flasher board by disconnecting it. I also took off the flasher on top of the peasant ramp\catapult ramp on that side and its board for some reason.
4. I unscrewed the lock nut\washer for the catapult ramp just above it as well.
5. Now you need to remove the plastic "stack" where the flasher was. Take a picture first of it. Pinch the bottom of the white spacers with needle nose pliers and push them up from the bottom. Take your time here.
6. Remove the lock nuts\washers on the plastic piece that sits on top of the steel orbit rail and remove the plastic.
7. For some reason I removed the lock nut\washer for the peasant ramp on the other side of the castle, this may or may not be needed.
8. If I remember properly, this should give you direct access to the 2 existing screws that are on the playfield that keep that steel orbit rail locked down. Loosen these and slip the Cliffy 2 slots under. Hopefully you have the latter day Cliffy here. My Cliffy has sort of a bent portion that extends into the moat, not straight and down, that's the old design. The old designed Cliffy also has 2 holes for the existing screw locations and not a slot. If you have the wrong part you might want to get the newest design one. At this point, there is a tab on the Cliffy that you push under the playfield between the moat plastic and the playfield. I used a pair of soft grip needle nose pliers and wedged those width-wise in the hole from the top to properly "form" the arm of the cliffy to the hole wall, to get it tight there. Reason for that is that it is a tight fit underneath the playfield to drill the cliffy tab hole you need there.
9. Fasten the existing 2 screws into the Cliffy, topside.
10. Lift up the playfield and drill the hole for the underside tab of the cliffy. Use an undersized drill bit and do NOT drill through the playfield entirely watch the drill depth here, too deep and you drill thru to the playfield and that is "an in-play" location, ball would hit any issue there. Be careful. You only need 3/8" depth. My cliffy was shipped without a screw so I contacted cliff. He said to buy a 6-32 round head screw. This is a 3/8" long screw. I found it at Home Depot.
11. Reassemble.

NOTE: If you install the mantis protector as well underneath the playfield for this hole, put the mantis on first. The cliffy will require some "opening" up of the screw slot to fit now as the cliffy was not designed for overlay to the mantis one. This is the screw slot nearest the back board of the machine.I do not think the mantis one offers anything over the cliffy and the cliffy is a better moat plastic protector. However, be forewarned if you install them both, I used a drill bit to drill out, or spot open, up the slot on one side to fit properly in that case, tandemed with mantis.

#2579 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I did this recently, actually have the mantis underside and cliffy topside. It is a lot of work. But essential. If you have 1600 plays on your game as you mentioned without it, you can see the cracked clear on the back of the hole and probably the underside edge of the playfield there getting rounded.
Take pictures and label the nuts\washers etc as you disassemble.
1. Take off the castle turrets, one screw in each.
2. Lift the front of the castle out.
3. Take the red flasher cap off, the one between the catapault wireform and the castle hole. Also I took out the little flasher board by disconnecting it.
4. I unscrewed the lock nut\washer for the catapault ramp just above it as well.
5. Now you need to remove the plastic "stack" where the flasher was. Take a picture first of it. Pinch the bottom of the white spacers with needle nose pliers and push them up from the bottom. Take your time here.
6. Remove the lock nuts\washers on the plastic piece that sits on top of the steel orbit rail and remove the plastic.
7. For some reason I remove the lock nut\washer for the peasant ramp on the other side of the castle, this may or may not be needed.
8. If I remember properly, this should give you direct access to the 2 existing screws that are on the playfield that keep that steel orbit rail locked down. Loosen these and slip the Cliffy 2 slots under. Hopefully you have the latter day Cliffy here. My Cliffy has sort of a bent portion that extends into the moat, not straight and down, that's the old design. The old designed Cliffy also has 2 holes for the existing screw locations and not a slot. If you have the wrong part you might want to get the newest design one. At this point, there is a tab on the Cliffy that you push under the playfield between the moat plastic and the playfield. I used a pair of soft grip needle nose pliers and wedged those width-wise in the hole from the top to properly "form" the arm of the cliffy to the hole wall, to get it tight there. Reason for that is that it is a tight fit underneath the playfield to drill the cliffy tab hole you need there.
9. Fasten the existing 2 screws into the Cliffy, topside.
10. Lift up the playfield and drill the hole for the underside tab of the cliffy. Use an undersized drill bit and do NOT drill through the playfield entirely watch the drill depth here, too deep and you drill thru to the playfield and that is "an in-play" location, ball would hit any issue there. Be careful. You only need 3/8" depth. My cliffy was shipped without a screw so I contacted cliff. He said to buy a 6-32 round head screw. This is a 3/8" long screw. I found it at Home Depot.
11. Reassemble.

My protector has two holes at the to for screws, and the part that extends into the moat s slightly bent. Is there a better version of this?

Also, can I install without drilling the hole at the bottom. Won't the two top screws hold it in place?

#2580 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

My protector has two holes at the to for screws, and the part that extends into the moat s slightly bent. Is there a better version of this?
Also, can I install without drilling the hole at the bottom. Won't the two top screws hold it in place?

Are they slots or tabs with holes in the cliffy? You need the slotted one. The hole underneath IMHO is required. The arm of the cliffy will bend back and impede the ball as it falls into the hole, you will cut balls and damage the protector and nicks to the playfield from a nicked ball.

#2581 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Are they slots or tabs with holes in the cliffy? You need the slotted one, do not know of a one with holes and the moat protection part of it that bends away from the back of the hole. That's the one you want you can look on the web for pictures.. The hole underneath IMHO is required. The arm of the cliffy will bend back and impede the ball as it falls into the hole, you will cut balls and damage the protector and nicks to the playfield from a nicked ball.

#2582 2 years ago

I just installed pinballpro speakers (with standard sub) in my MMR but don't notice a difference. I bought them so the voices would be more clear, but I don't think they are. I used the crimping clips that came with it instead of solder. Would that matter? The original speakers were soldered to the wires.

#2583 2 years ago
Quoted from mamefan:

I just installed pinballpro speakers (with standard sub) in my MMR but don't notice a difference. I bought them so the voices would be more clear, but I don't think they are. I used the crimping clips that came with it instead of solder. Would that matter? The original speakers were soldered to the wires.

No, as long as you have sound coming out of them, the connections are good.

#2584 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

No, as long as you have sound coming out of them, the connections are good.

What I am noticing now is more of a buzz sound when it's idle, and there's an annoying rattling sound coming from the left metal edge and glass during play. Do I stuff something in that channel to muffle it or just put the original sub back? The problem with that is I had to crowbar out the old sub and its mdf platform, which were glued to the bottom of the cabinet, and the platform is damaged now.

#2585 2 years ago
Quoted from mamefan:

What I am noticing now is more of a buzz sound when it's idle, and there's an annoying rattling sound coming from the left metal edge and glass during play. Do I stuff something in that channel to muffle it or just put the original sub back? The problem with that is I had to crowbar out the old sub and its mdf platform, which were glued to the bottom of the cabinet, and the platform is damaged now.

Ha, pinballpro sells anti-rattle tape for $20. The speakers are just a trick to sell more tape! jk

#2586 2 years ago

Anybody rattle proof their MMR glass for vibration from the shaker? Tape them?

-1
#2587 2 years ago

So I recently played mm. Loved it. Just finished playing mmr standard. Felt totally different. Only way to explain it is that the flipper action felt very"clackety"...if there even is such a word. Kinda felt like my tftc. SO...for all you owners I ask you " Is this the norm on the remake, or perhaps the one I played wasnt dialed in?. Wanted to buy so badly but left with an empty truck, feeling dissappointed after playing the original.

#2588 2 years ago
Quoted from Ozzy:

So I recently played mm. Loved it. Just finished playing mmr standard. Felt totally different. Only way to explain it is that the flipper action felt very"clackety"...if there even is such a word.

It's Williams flipper parts, the same as the original MM... so I don't know what to tell you.

My MMR is much snappier, on default power, than my MM was and I have a WAY easier time making ramps.

Maybe it just felt newer?

#2589 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anybody rattle proof their MMR glass for vibration from the shaker? Tape them?

My tape came in the mail today. I am going to install it soon and report back.

#2590 2 years ago

Could you please post some pictures of the tape and where you use it? Mine rattles and I have been unsuccessful so far using some soft foam draft stop tape to try to stop it.

#2591 2 years ago
Quoted from Rat:

Could you please post some pictures of the tape and where you use it? Mine rattles and I have been unsuccessful so far using some soft foam draft stop tape to try to stop it.

I didn’t get to install tonight. It’s the anti rattle tape from Pinball Pro. You apply it to the edges and it wraps around like a U. I’ll work on it tomorrow.

#2592 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I didn’t get to install tonight. It’s the anti rattle tape from Pinball Pro. You apply it to the edges and it wraps around like a U. I’ll work on it tomorrow.

Also curious to know how the tape works out. Not that it's a huge bother, but I guess if I could eliminate the rattling it would be better. Please update us.

#2593 2 years ago

Ok. So I identified my random spring. Lost a clip off the left troll. I can fix that.

I still haven’t solved my “castle gate won’t open” problem. I disconnected the solenoid from the gate to get more info. Solenoid feels smooth and fired fine in tests.

The gate itself has a ton of friction in it. Rattles around in the channel and feels like it wants to really bind up. But I can’t see anything obvious (like a break or anything making it bind up). I felt another MMr gate and it was a definitely different feel. Much smoother. Do I dare lube at all?

Or any other ideas?

#2594 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Site says that no soldering is required. And although it's not much work, I would rather have the replacement connector if it was supposed to be included. I'm waiting for a reply from PP.

All of our MMR kits include crimp connectors, so that no soldering is required. They are in the bag with the mounting screws attached to the subwoofer magnet. If you have any questions at all, tech support is available, just give me a call!

Thanks for the business
Greg M
Pinballpro.com

#2595 2 years ago
Quoted from ovfdfireman:

All of our MMR kits include crimp connectors, so that no soldering is required. They are in the bag with the mounting screws attached to the subwoofer magnet. If you have any questions at all, tech support is available, just give me a call!
Thanks for the business
Greg M
Pinballpro.com

Yes, got an email back from you guys and everything is sorted. Planning to install this weekend. Thank you again

#2596 2 years ago
Quoted from Ozzy:

So I recently played mm. Loved it. Just finished playing mmr standard. Felt totally different. Only way to explain it is that the flipper action felt very"clackety"...if there even is such a word. Kinda felt like my tftc. SO...for all you owners I ask you " Is this the norm on the remake, or perhaps the one I played wasnt dialed in?. Wanted to buy so badly but left with an empty truck, feeling dissappointed after playing the original.

Strange my MMr flippers feel totally normal, as a matter of fact they are perfect.. I can make the ramp shots no problem, stick the merlin hole and get no air balls.

#2597 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Strange my MMr flippers feel totally normal, as a matter of fact they are perfect.. I can make the ramp shots no problem, stick the merlin hole and get no air balls.

Mine are perfect too, no air balls, Merlin sticks.

#2598 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Strange my MMr flippers feel totally normal, as a matter of fact they are perfect.. I can make the ramp shots no problem, stick the merlin hole and get no air balls.

My MMR flippers can crack walnuts !!
Happy man!

#2599 2 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

My MMR flippers can crack walnuts !!
Happy man!

Chuck Norris played my MMR once and used my awesome flippers to hit the ball up both ramps, into the catapult, and destroyed the King of Payne... all with one shot!!

#2600 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Micro switch under the moat. Follow wires and reseat connector a couple times. Be sure it is on tight. May need adjusting.
LTG : )

Thanks. Do you mean this thing? Not sure what to do. I'm new to this.

20171027_184616 (resized).jpg

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