I have a shaker motor and like it with the castle and catapult but feel like it's way too much for the trolls popping up. Any way to adjust that specifically?

I picked up an MMr LE and I have to say of all the MM's I have owned (5 originals) this remake is the best playing of them all, I am impressed with this game!

Curious to know from someone who has so much experience with original MMs, what you feel are the major differences/improvements except for the obvious stuff like the better display.

I know you weren't asking me, but I'll chime in... I had a MM for a couple years that I replaced with an MMR... the MM wasn't actually mine, but I'm gonna refer to it as "mine" to keep this simple.

Ramps are easier to make on MMR... fresh flippers and clearcoat make a big difference I'd imagine.

The drawbridge is ALOT quieter on my MMR than my MM. But again, it's like 20 years newer.

LED lighting is BRIGHT and looks great. The "Hi Res" color display is a plus, although the ColorDMD on my MM was just fine.

CGC options menu gives you some extra tuning options (all mine are still default) plus you have all the original Williams options.

The flipper travel is different than it was on my MM but I recently played another MM that was actually very close to my MM in terms of flipper travel and feel, so I assume my MMR is actually probably more "correct" than my MM was.

My MM was certainly more "dialed in", but I haven't had to much time on dialing in the MMR as it already plays so damn nice. It was alot easier to kill castles tho on my old MM than on my MMR tho so my scores were better, but I find myself getting to (and beating) Royal Madness alot more on MMR and completing more of the objectives like Master of Trolls, Patron of the Peasants, etc...

Anyhow, I really like MMR. It feels like a "real" MM to me, but new.

All of the above plus almost no bounce outs from the Merlin hole even when you drill the shot... the game plays like how I had always imagined a brand new MM would play.

I just got a Chicago Gaming brand new MMR. Will upgraded speakers make a big difference?

I'd like to know if it's possible to get the same sound out of my MMR as I get from my afmr.?

Are different sound boards used or am i stuck with crap in crap out on MMR?

When I first heard my MMR speakers, I knew immediately that I was going to upgrade them. I bought the Pinball Pro speakers with premium subwoofer and now it sounds great!

I played an AFMR this past weekend at the Expo and I do think it's a bit better than my MMR with the Pinball Pros, but I still say it's well worth the upgrade.

http://pinballpro.net/shop/medieval-madness-remake/

Hahaha, opposite for me... my old MM has a pretty solid Merlin shot, but my MMR you have to kind of finesse it in or it goes through. Still, it's not so bad that I've had to go in and change anything so...

And FWIW, I don't think the sound is THAT bad, but they used a cheap speaker for sure. I might upgrade someday.

Will the sub in this kit clear the troll brackets?

It will, but...

Attention: This kit requires the removal of the woofer block spacer in the bottom of the cabinet. All of our kits our easy to install, this kit requires basic wood working skills. The use of a pry bar and chisel for removal. We do offer a 6.5″ sub which does not require block removal.

The question I have is not so much the speakers, it’s the quality of sound the game puts out. Are the electronics just better on AFMr? I don’t need an upgraded cabinet sub, I have an external Polk sub to give me all the bass I need. I want better sound from the back box speakers. Again, if you have crap going into the speakers, you get crap coming out. I always thought MMr sound was good, but as soon as I got my AFMr, I realized how bad it actually is relatively speaking.

Yeah, there is a thread earlier that just basically says that they used kinda crap speakers and swapping them out for something better and full range makes a huge difference. Heck, it's got me thinking I might need to upgrade...

Highly recommend the pin stadium kit if you like to play in the dark! Looks amazing in person. Off and on... phone camera makes both look brighter than they are.

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MMR owners - In the Marketplace I'm selling my new, uninstalled MMR diffuser kit and my new, virgin MM keychain together for $25, with free shipping in the U.S. PM me if interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/55700

Backbox speaker replacement does help the quality of the sound, you will hear things that are muffled by the factory speakers. I've upgraded my backbox speakers with some Kicker car speakers and it is a nice improvement. There is however still another improvement that needs to be done, but that needs to be from the factory: the voice quotes are output at a much lower level than the background music and game sounds, overwhelming the voices. They need to bring the voice output levels up so that they can be heard.l I have messaged Doug at CGC about this, and he acknowledged the request as having been brought up before and it was on their nice to have to-do list. At that time CGC was gearing up for the AFMr release and busy with that, so they may need a reminder from others to bubble it back up......

My callouts sound great.

Diffuser kit and keychain sold. Thanks, pinside!

MMR one week old having issues

Few days ago test report said check switch F6 U.R. Flipper But. Everything played fine until tonight none of the multiballs kick out extra balls... not sure how to fix! Any help would be appreciated!

One of the two optos on the flipper button opto board isn't working. Reseat it's connector a couple times.

I'd check for anything broke off, or dirt ? in ball trough preventing balls from rolling down. I suspect since your game is new. Optos work, no divots in bottom of ball trough. I would think the balls may be magnetized.

LTG : )

Mine too. Thanks again.

Was about to install a Pinball Pro speaker kit in my MMR, and I noticed that I did not get any connectors in the box for the PP speakers.

Has anyone done the install? Should I have received connectors with my speakers? From what i can see, the two speakers connect to the board via a molex. My guess would be that I would disconnect the factory molex, and replace with a harness that should have been provided by PP?

Otherwise, the only option seems to be me desoldering the factory ones, and soldering to the new PP speakers. But the instructions state "no soldering", so i'm thinking they forgot to include connectors.

Any input would be appreciated.

Don't you just unplug/unsolder the old speakers and plug/solder in the new ones?

I just ordered some Pyle speakers (similar to the AFMR ones) on Scamazon and am planning to swap them upon arrival.

Site says that no soldering is required. And although it's not much work, I would rather have the replacement connector if it was supposed to be included. I'm waiting for a reply from PP.

LTG - thanks for replying! Called my distributor (Phil, Arcades at Home) since I was still stumped after trying your advice and he came by and fixed it no problems next day!

Coil/plunger sticking up a little bit too high. Glad Phil could easily lower it. he called me while at your place.

LTG : )

I just ordered the kickers for my game, $39 off eBay. Looking for a recommendation on a woofer for the cabinet, low profile so it doesn’t interfere with the trolls. I prefer not to modify the cabinet.

I’ve been told the sounds coming out of the game is designed exactly as it is in AFMr so I think replacing hardware will have a big impact.

I've had a new MMR since Wednesday, and the ball has gotten stuck on this ramp gate twice. I had to slide the glass down to get the ball out. Is this common? I just bent the gate a little on the end trying to fix it. It might work.

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400+ games on my MMr...never seen that.

It says no solidering required because Williams pins had plugs directly on the speakers.
MMr does not have plugs at the speaker pins. and requires desolidering and solidering.
Unless you go get plugs and crimp them on the wires. That way if you ever need to remove them, you can easily.
As the factory MMr speakers are hardwired.

I'd put a tiny drop of light oil on each end of the gate where it goes into the hole in the steel wall. And adjust the switch so a ball rolling up or down triggers it ( check in Tests - Switch Edge ) yet doesn't get stuck. You can loosen the switch and turn a little to adjust.

LTG : )

Mine was a little notchy there from new; a little pin nudging would get any ball hang-up through. FWIW, I never had to take the glass off and it was infrequent enough that I never got around to adjusting the gate either. Now with more plays the gate is working more smoothly and there is no significant issue.

Hello all. I installed the mantis moat jump protector which covers up the playfield where the ball enters the lock door on the castle (the etched piece). The protector also extends to the right, under the castle gate. Does anyone have the ball flying up in the air when it hits this extension of the protector. I don't see a lot of area for adjustment on this. I'm thinking I may have to cut the extension off. Thanks for any ideas. Mike

I have the same protector and I sometimes get those air balls. Doesn't really bother me. That extension is there to protect the drawbridge hinge.

Happy to be part of this club - got a machine made this month and aside from the playfield being much darker than I expected, it's beautiful.

I do have one issue though and was wondering if anyone here has encountered it. I have to power cycle the game 2-3 times before the LCD will show anything. When you first power it on, the LCD actually says no input, and then it stays black while the rest of the game/playfield lights up as normal.

It did this out of the box and I reseated everything in the backbox, and under the playfield and it came back fine, but now it's doing it again and I'm not moving the machine around or anything. Odd that a few power cycles seem to fix it but there must be something going on.

How long would you say before the chicago gaming logo and game screen comes up?
In my case, it never comes up even after a few minutes, you can even play the game blind and hear all the audio.

That’s not normal. Contact Chicago Gaming and open a support ticket for help.

Quick question for owners. I'm approaching 2000 plays on my machine, and starting to notice reduced power in my flippers. A good number of shots to the ramps don't complete, and it wasn't previously doing this.

From what I understand, flipper could rarely go bad or even lose strength. The EOS gap seems fine as well.

Any suggestions? And is this normal/expected after this amount of use?

One other thing I noticed was that slingshot kickers we're very sensitive, and when I took them out, they were all bent. Straitened them out, and now it's working better.

Have you adjusted the flipper strength? 2000 games in I am sure you already know that it is adjustable. I have +1 on flipper strength. 2000 games already. Wow. How long have you had the machine? What's your top score?

Yup, I've played with the flipper strength before, but never needed to, as it felt perfect at default. So I'm wondering why it's not feeling weaker.

I think I actually have closer to 1600 games, and that includes others playing about 25% of the games. Top score is 411M, reached BFTK 9 or 10 times, and completed it 3 times. Game definitely does not get old!

I'd grab a 5/32nds allen wrench and be sure your coil stop screws are in tight.

LTG : )

I'll try that tonight. Is there a rule of thumb for the amount of games until you need to rebuild or do maintenance on flippers. Would 1600 games put enough wear?

My rubber posts were looking a bit rough, so I replaced those.

Oh, and one last thing. I mentioned to you a while back that the mylar around my right troll was coming up. I removed it and replaced with one from Pinbits, but it's thicker than the ones you guys put on at CGC. Is it possible to purchase a set of replacement mylar?

Thanks as always for your unlimited wisdom

When they lose power.

No. CGC doesn't sell parts. I'd check if pinrestore.com mylar is thinner http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html scroll down a bit. If so buy that and cut to size/shape.

LTG : )

Maybe throw in some new coil sleeves while you're in there. You shouldn't need to, but they're cheap and it won't hurt anything.

Wall power has a lot to do with coil strength as well as debris like black dust interfering with the plungers.
I would replace the coil sleeves at this time and do a thorough cleaning of the assemblies, possibly even replace the coil stops and plungers if they look dished of worn while you have it apart. But they shouldnt need replacing yet, you can sand or grind off any deformations you might find and just put in new sleeves.

The early run MMRs were built with flipper parts that had longer plungers than WPC 95 spec. A longer plunger will decrease the flippers upward movement and reduce power. Not sure how many left the shop that way, but I had an early one and just rebuilt with a new kit and it’s a huge difference. I was never unhappy with MMR at all, but the game is very snappy now with clean/rebuilt flippers.

Can anyone please post the different lengths of the correct and incorrect plungers so I can check mine?

I have always felt that mine stopped quite low but assumed it was correct, perhaps it isn't.

Are you guys maybe talking about the coil *STOP*, and not the plunger?
Because they're WERE different coil stops, and I've never heard of different lengths of plungers.

Read from here on,
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-mods-post-them-here/page/3#post-3775508