(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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#2251 2 years ago

Looks to me like Plunger069 has the melamine cabinet. Here is a pic of mine with painted plywood. Not sure melamine would definately be the better choice. It still scratches and repairs to it aren't very possible as far as I know.

IMG_6975 (resized).JPG

#2252 2 years ago

How has the best price on a new MMR ?
Thanks Russ

#2253 2 years ago

Does anybody have a mm le or standard for sale close to northern PA. Have cash.
PM me if you do.

#2254 2 years ago
Quoted from spazzman90:

Anyone have any info on some upgrades for the MMr? I have the AFMr now and the bar is set so high on the play experience. I heard they were going to offer the screen for MM at some point. That would be a start. The speakers need some work as well. I'll have to live without a topper and extra lighting. Would be nice to have these machines look like they 'belong together'.

Huh? Topper's are available through Laseriffic. You can add spotlights from pinball life. New speakers make a huge difference. Look at post #2058 for that...

#2255 2 years ago

Playing a lot of MMr lately, through a swap with another pinsider who like me wanted a little change, and graciously agreed to swap for a couple months. I've got the game levelled but when the ball comes off the pops, and rolls down the right side of the game, it almost always bounces off the top corner of the slingshots. Does this happen on everyone's game? I don't want to modify anything since it's not my game but it is REALLY annoying. Are all MMs set up like this?

#2256 2 years ago

It sld come down to the flippers like on this gameplay video of mine.

#2257 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Playing a lot of MMr lately, through a swap with another pinsider who like me wanted a little change, and graciously agreed to swap for a couple months. I've got the game levelled but when the ball comes off the pops, and rolls down the right side of the game, it almost always bounces off the top corner of the slingshots. Does this happen on everyone's game? I don't want to modify anything since it's not my game but it is REALLY annoying. Are all MMs set up like this?

I had this issue as well. The solution is very easy. Take a very small piece from a blanc plastic sheet and put it between the black post and the plastic above the post (above the 3 red stand up targets at the right) so that the ball is slightly influenced to the left (the plastic is just 2 millimeter from the black post to the left). This is enough to send the ball directly to the right flipper. And teh blanc plastic peace is not noticable at all.

#2258 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Playing a lot of MMr lately, through a swap with another pinsider who like me wanted a little change, and graciously agreed to swap for a couple months. I've got the game levelled but when the ball comes off the pops, and rolls down the right side of the game, it almost always bounces off the top corner of the slingshots. Does this happen on everyone's game? I don't want to modify anything since it's not my game but it is REALLY annoying. Are all MMs set up like this?

A gentile bend of the ball guide will fix this. I did it to mine when it was new and I haven’t had the issue since.

#2259 2 years ago
Quoted from guss:

Does anybody have a mm le or standard for sale close to northern PA. Have cash.
PM me if you do.

I have an MMR LE with gold trim, shaker, color upgrade, side art, upgraded apron (original also included), and fully Cliffy protectors. I'm asking $8500 but open to offers.

IMG_0472 (resized).jpg

#2260 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

A gentile bend of the ball guide will fix this. I did it to mine when it was new and I haven’t had the issue since.

Thank you all!

#2261 2 years ago

Yup, have the same issue. Had to bend the guide and now it falls on the flipper rather than the sling.

But I find after a bunch of play, it does need more bending.

#2262 2 years ago

Anything new or updated hardware with MMR with the newest run Chicago Gaming ?

#2263 2 years ago

anybody own both MMr and AFMr? It sounds like the build quality went up a bit from MMr. I was a little surprised about the cost of all the upgrades, and still having to fix certain issues (the damsel scoop thing, the speakers, for example). Sounds like they knocked it out of the park on AFMr

#2264 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

anybody own both MMr and AFMr? It sounds like the build quality went up a bit from MMr. I was a little surprised about the cost of all the upgrades, and still having to fix certain issues (the damsel scoop thing, the speakers, for example). Sounds like they knocked it out of the park on AFMr

I have both. They were delivered on the same day. To me there is a big difference, but you are comparing an MMr standard to an AFMrSE. What would be a more fair comparison is to wait for the AFMr classic to arrive and see how it feels compared to MMr standard.

#2265 2 years ago
Quoted from guss:

How has the best price on a new MMR ?
Thanks Russ

Looks like I'm buying one tomorrow unless somebody has a Great deal on one like new before then.

#2266 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

anybody own both MMr and AFMr? It sounds like the build quality went up a bit from MMr. I was a little surprised about the cost of all the upgrades, and still having to fix certain issues (the damsel scoop thing, the speakers, for example). Sounds like they knocked it out of the park on AFMr

I have both in LE. I personally find that AFM is built better. I just feels more sturdy all around. I'm not technically inclined at all, so this is based solely on feel. However, if you made me pick one, I'd still likely take MMR because I just enjoy the game play and theme more. Again, that's just me...

#2267 2 years ago

Seriously... this thread (and much of pinside) is like the movie, Groundhog Day.

#2268 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I have both in LE. I personally find that AFM is built better. I just feels more sturdy all around. I'm not technically inclined at all, so this is based solely on feel. However, if you made me pick one, I'd still likely take MMR because I just enjoy the game play and theme more. Again, that's just me...

That's the (anecdotal) sense I got as well. MMr is great, but - and I had a discussion with my friend about this - I can tell it's not an original game. I think at*least* it is the flippers. We were kind of saying "I cant' tell the difference on the flippers..." Well, I can tell now. It's different. Not good or bad, but I feel like there' snot as much nuance with the stock flippers...

#2269 2 years ago

I also have both MMrLE and AFMrLE. Although the quality on both is excellent, they really killed it on AFM. I ripped apart MMrLE and modified almost the entire playfield, even rebuilding and lighting up the castle. I was expecting to do the same on AFMrLE but found that almost everything I would have done, was in fact already done!
Only need to add the Cliffys....and the topper is awesome! Great job CHicago Gaming!

#2270 2 years ago
Quoted from guss:

Looks like I'm buying one tomorrow unless somebody has a Great deal on one like new before then.

Ordered one from Melissa at cointaker. Now the wait.

#2271 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I have both in LE. I personally find that AFM is built better. I just feels more sturdy all around. I'm not technically inclined at all, so this is based solely on feel. However, if you made me pick one, I'd still likely take MMR because I just enjoy the game play and theme more. Again, that's just me...

I have both LE's as well, and see ZERO quality differences....very different games, but built with the same great quality.

#2272 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I have both LE's as well, and see ZERO quality differences....very different games, but built with the same great quality.

Same here, I have both LE's and see absolutely no difference in build quality. I love both of them but I still think MMr is a bit more fun. There I said it.

#2273 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Same here, I have both LE's and see absolutely no difference in build quality. I love both of them but I still think MMr is a bit more fun. There I said it.

Both great games...kinda hard to pick one or the other...both are very fun, and very different from each other....

#2274 2 years ago

Has anyone installed the castle 2.0 from Pinwize? Just looking to get some feedback on it before pulling the trigger.

http://www.pinwize.com/medieval_madness_castle_mod.php

Also, does anyone have any suggestions (or even better, a link to a guide) for uninstalling the castle? I need to get it off anyhow to install some Cliffy's.

Cheers

#2275 2 years ago

The only castle disassembly you need to do is remove the nut on top of each castle tower and take the top (turret) off of them. Then pull up the whole castle front. The moat jump cliffy is tough to install, at least it was for me, and I skipped that one. Need to disassemble the flasher stack and white clips on the left side under the catapault ramp to do that one. Others here have gotten in in.

#2276 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

The only castle disassembly you need to do is remove the nut on top of each castle tower and take the top (turret) off of them. Then pull up the whole castle front. The moat jump cliffy is tough to install, at least it was for me, and I skipped that one. Need to disassemble the flasher stack and white clips on the left side under the catapault ramp to do that one. Others here have gotten in in.

For the lip of the castle (small Multiball door) I have the Mantis protector installed.

The hole inside of the castle where the ball drops into is taking a beating. What's the best way to install that? Instructions on Cliffy's site are useless.

Also have a protector for the castle eject (on left) but not sure how to access it.

Thanks

#2277 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

For the lip of the castle (small Multiball door) I have the Mantis protector installed.
The hole inside of the castle where the ball drops into is taking a beating. What's the best way to install that? Instructions on Cliffy's site are useless.
Also have a protector for the castle eject (on left) but not sure how to access it.
Thanks

That's the moat jump cliffy I described. It goes on top of the hole, the mantis goes on the bottom of it. I have not installed either, the only ones I still have not installed and feel I need to. The cliffy as I stated, requires disassembly of the castle as described and the flasher stack near the left castle tower under the catapault ramp. The underside mantis there needs the moat to be removed. I did not want to do the disassembly required. Others here have. The Mantis moat eject (you described it as the castle eject) is easy to install as you can remove the underside moat eject solenoid and have to drill a hole underside there to install that protector. Drill an undersized hole and then install the screw so the playfield will not crack. You might have to remove the leftmost 2 moat screws as well, I do not remember, but that Mantis one is fairly easy. This is the small eject hole protector described by mantis:

http://www.mantisamusements.com/mminstall.htm

Sorry cannot help of the moat jump Cliffy or Mantis lock hole underside protector as I said I did not install them but have them on hand.

#2278 2 years ago

Does the Mantis jump protector still have that extra screw hole for the screw they say you don't need to put in? I love that protector and think the area looks naked without it, but I hate both the idea of drilling an extra screw hole in my PF as well as having an empty screw hole there.

#2279 2 years ago

Just had my best game yet on my MMR Standard. 68.5 million, 4 lit masters, 4 castles, completed Royal Madness, drained the last ball with a hurryup still lit and one shot from Defender of Damsels and one shot from castle multiball. Fantastic when it comes together. Had it lined up for getting to BFTK, just needed the 5th castle under castle multiball.

#2280 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Does the Mantis jump protector still have that extra screw hole for the screw they say you don't need to put in? I love that protector and think the area looks naked without it, but I hate both the idea of drilling an extra screw hole in my PF as well as having an empty screw hole there.

It does. I just used the one existing screw and seems to hold in place.

#2281 2 years ago

Has anyone succeeded in adding headphones to MMR?

#2282 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

The only castle disassembly you need to do is remove the nut on top of each castle tower and take the top (turret) off of them. Then pull up the whole castle front. The moat jump cliffy is tough to install, at least it was for me, and I skipped that one. Need to disassemble the flasher stack and white clips on the left side under the catapault ramp to do that one. Others here have gotten in in.

It isn't that hard to get to the underside of the moat jump hole in the castle. See below.

Quoted from Damien:

For the lip of the castle (small Multiball door) I have the Mantis protector installed.
The hole inside of the castle where the ball drops into is taking a beating. What's the best way to install that? Instructions on Cliffy's site are useless.
Also have a protector for the castle eject (on left) but not sure how to access it.
Thanks

Ya, the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump hole in the castle) takes a beating, maybe more than any other area. See below for install.

Quoted from KozMckPinball:

That's the moat jump cliffy I described. It goes on top of the hole, the mantis goes on the bottom of it. I have not installed either, the only ones I still have not installed and feel I need to. The cliffy as I stated, requires disassembly of the castle as described and the flasher stack near the left castle tower under the catapault ramp. The underside mantis there needs the moat to be removed. I did not want to do the disassembly required. Others here have. The Mantis moat eject (you described it as the castle eject) is easy to install as you can remove the underside moat eject solenoid and have to drill a hole underside there to install that protector. Drill an undersized hole and then install the screw so the playfield will not crack. You might have to remove the leftmost 2 moat screws as well, I do not remember, but that Mantis one is fairly easy. This is the small eject hole protector described by mantis:
http://www.mantisamusements.com/mminstall.htm
Sorry cannot help of the moat jump Cliffy or Mantis lock hole underside protector as I said I did not install them but have them on hand.

I was able to find it not too hard to get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (moat jump castle hole). That's how I installed the Mantis protector I used and recently posted about here. With some bending to fit through the hole, you may be able to install the cliffy protector that way as well. I had both protectors but after installing the Mantis, it looked adequately protected to me and the cliffy was redundant, so I didn't install the cliffy version as well.

To get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump hole in the castle), prop up the playfied to get access to the underside. Remove the moat VUK (it's on the left side of the moat. Then remove the moat plastic; it's a lot of screws around the underside of the green plastic moat. After removing the screws, I was able to wiggle the green plastic moat out from all the surrounding stuff, and then swing it out of the way (without any further disassembly other than moving a harness a bit <I think I unscrewed a harness holder in the area> and potentially unplugging/disconnecting a cable or two). Reinstall was simply the reverse.

Hope that helps.

#2283 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

It isn't that hard to get to the underside of the moat jump. See below.

Ya, the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump) takes a beating, maybe more than any other area. See below for install.

I was able to find it not too hard to get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop. That's how I installed the Mantis protector I used and recently posted about here, and with some bending to fit through the hole you may be able to install the cliffy protector as well that way. I had both protectors but after installing the Mantis is looked adequately protected to me and I didn't install the cliffy version as well.
To get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump), prop up the playfied to get access to the underside. Remove the moat VUK (it's on the left side of the moat. Then remove the moat plastic. I was able to wiggle the green plastic out from all the surrounding stuff, and then have it out of the way (without any further disassembly other than moving the harness a bit and potentially unplugging/disconnecting a cable or two).
Hope that helps.

I'm a bit confused... I have the Mantis protector on the moat jump, that also has a bar that protects the bottom of the drawbridge. So there is also a Cliffy that install under that? For what though? I know he now has a protector for the edge of the moat directly across from the moat jump, as the bounce backs beat that edge up (I already have a little crack showing). But not sure what exactly is being protected under the moat jump.

And for the Mantis protector that go into the secret entrance (inside castle), what is required? It appears to install from the bottom, so do I need to take off the moat for this?

And for the VUK protector, I read that some people just removed the mech, and a couple moat screws to get it in?

#2284 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'm a bit confused... I have the Mantis protector on the moat jump, that also has a bar that protects the bottom of the drawbridge. So there is also a Cliffy that install under that? For what though? I know he now has a protector for the edge of the moat directly across from the moat jump, as the bounce backs beat that edge up (I already have a little crack showing). But not sure what exactly is being protected under the moat jump.
And for the Mantis protector that go into the secret entrance (inside castle), what is required? It appears to install from the bottom, so do I need to take off the moat for this?
And for the VUK protector, I read that some people just removed the mech, and a couple moat screws to get it in?

When I said moat jump in that last post, I mean the moat jump hole in the castle. Edited it. There is a mantis protector for both the moat jump hole in the castle (what I was talking about) and the unprotected wood in front of the swinging door after the moat jump.

The moat VUK protector from mantis only needs the moat VUK itself removed. It can be installed around everything else.

#2285 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

It isn't that hard to get to the underside of the moat jump hole in the castle. See below.

Ya, the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump hole in the castle) takes a beating, maybe more than any other area. See below for install.

I was able to find it not too hard to get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (moat jump castle hole). That's how I installed the Mantis protector I used and recently posted about here. With some bending to fit through the hole, you may be able to install the cliffy protector that way as well. I had both protectors but after installing the Mantis, it looked adequately protected to me and the cliffy was redundant, so I didn't install the cliffy version as well.
To get to the underside of the inner castle ball drop (aka the moat jump hole in the castle), prop up the playfied to get access to the underside. Remove the moat VUK (it's on the left side of the moat. Then remove the moat plastic; it's a lot of screws around the underside of the green plastic moat. After removing the screws, I was able to wiggle the green plastic moat out from all the surrounding stuff, and then swing it out of the way (without any further disassembly other than moving a harness a bit <I think I unscrewed a harness holder in the area> and potentially unplugging/disconnecting a cable or two). Reinstall was simply the reverse.
Hope that helps.

Yeah it does help thanks. I was reluctant to remove the whole moat for that mantis and I might just do it now, as it seems like an essential protector. The cliffy one, moat jump, I will try to fit it thru the hole from the bottom like you suggested, otherwise I'll skip it too. It takes a screw I forget where, hopefully not on top, that would negate pushing it up from underside. Thanks!

#2286 2 years ago
Quoted from Backyardace:

Would like to know if the new MMR has a melamine covered cabinet.

Mine does.

#2287 2 years ago

Do you have the new one made by Chicago Gaming Co?

#2288 2 years ago

MMRs will start to ship this week I'm told. Let me know if you are interested in one.

Larry@flipnoutpinball.com

#2289 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

When I said moat jump in that last post, I mean the moat jump hole in the castle. Edited it. There is a mantis protector for both the moat jump hole in the castle (what I was talking about) and the unprotected wood in front of the swinging door after the moat jump.
The moat VUK protector from mantis only needs the moat VUK itself removed. It can be installed around everything else.

I installed the Mantis protector in the castle moat jump hole last night. I have about 750 games on my MMR and could already see some clear cracking and a tiny bit of edge wear on the playfield wood straight back from where the ball enters that castle ball lock entrance. I agree that this is an essential protector for MM/MMR. Lots of disassembly required though, on the underside where the mantis goes, VUK mech has to come off ( 3 wood screws), to get that off, loosen a small circuit board to get the 3rd VUK screw out, have to unscrew 4 wiring harness ties, disconnect 3 wire connectors to FL72, SW37 and SW41 and then remove the moat by taking out 7 screws and disconnecting the moat wire connector. Have to loosen one of the L brackets where one of the wiring harness ties goes in as it interferes with one of the Mantis screws, which there are 3 of in total. Took me all of the late Monday Night football game Broncos/Chargers, I figure 3.5 hours. The Cliffy moat jump protects the same area of wood that Mantis does and also protects the moat plastic itself, which the Mantis does not. I agree that that Cliffy moat jump might not be essential, top dis-assembly seems difficult to get it in anyway. The moat assembly if it gets cracked would cost about $85, but could be replaced.

#2290 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I installed the Mantis protector in the castle moat jump hole last night. I have about 750 games on my MMR and could already see some clear cracking and a tiny bit of edge wear on the playfield wood straight back from where the ball enters that castle ball lock entrance. I agree that this is an essential protector for MM/MMR. Lots of disassembly required though, on the underside where the mantis goes, VUK mech has to come off ( 3 wood screws), to get that off, loosen a small circuit board to get the 3rd VUK screw out, have to unscrew 4 wiring harness ties, disconnect 3 wire connectors to FL72, SW37 and SW41 and then remove the moat by taking out 7 screws and disconnecting the moat wire connector. Have to loosen one of the L brackets where one of the wiring harness ties goes in as it interferes with one of the Mantis screws, which there are 3 of in total. Took me all of the late Monday Night football game Broncos/Chargers, I figure 3.5 hours. The Cliffy moat jump protects the same area of wood that Mantis does and also protects the moat plastic itself, which the Mantis does not. I agree that that Cliffy moat jump might not be essential, top dis-assembly seems difficult to get it in anyway. The moat assembly if it gets cracked would cost about $85, but could be replaced.

Sounds like more work than I was hoping for haha! What size hole did you drill for the screws?

Also, you think that the Mantis protector will cover the moat jump hole enough that you don't need the Cliffy?

I have the full Mantis set, but was about to order the Cliffy's for shooter lane, catapult, and drawbridge.

Oh, and one last thing... Did you install the Mantis protector for Merlin?

#2291 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Sounds like more work than I was hoping for haha! What size hole did you drill for the screws?
Also, you think that the Mantis protector will cover the moat jump hole enough that you don't need the Cliffy?
I have the full Mantis set, but was about to order the Cliffy's for shooter lane, catapult, and drawbridge.
Oh, and one last thing... Did you install the Mantis protector for Merlin?

Actually I just installed the cliffy moat jump as well. I probably have a rare machine now that has both the mantis and cliffy moat jump installed. If I was to do it over again, I'd pick the Cliffy only as you get the full wood and moat plastic protector with the extended protector feature. In the end, the dis-assembly for the Cliffy was probably a little less intense than the mantis, no mole connector dis-connects needed and minimal wood screws. The cliffy was not designed it seems, to be installed AFTER the mantis. Don't see this anywhere, but if you install both, install the cliffy between the playfield and the mantis, or like me, I did not do that, so you'll have to jury rig the one screw hole that won't line up correctly now. (2 existing screws are used for the cliffy top-side, the one on the short width of the lock hole does not line up since the mantis protector thickness was not considered if the mantis is already on).

Some Cliffy install advice: Unscrew the screws on top of each castle turret and remove the castle tops and front in whole. Loosen the catapault nut and take it off, the one above the flasher stack, on top of the black vertical pole, and remove 2 other nuts on the peasant ramp. Remove the red flasher plastic for one of those. Now remove the flasher plastic below the catapault on the left side of the castle, where there is a stack of plastic. First remove the flasher there, it disconnects, and remove it. Remove the 2 layers of plastic around that flasher by pinching the white shim pieces at the top with some needlenose pliers, be gentle. This lets you access the playfield nuts. Remove 2 nuts on the horizontal plastic that sits on top of the metal ball rail and work those up to remove the plastic. Now you have access to the 2 playfield wood screws that the cliffy uses. I took those out, lifted the ball rail a little and squeezed the cliffy underneath, also bent the side of the cliffy away from the wood, the cliffy side that has the underfield tab. Once in under the ball rail, I pushed that bent side back and the tab goes under the playfield between it and the moat. I used a pair of needlenose pliers that had a soft covering on the handles and wedged it in the lock hole to push the bent side of the cliffy back into proper shape. That's pretty much it, now re-assemble.

I did install the mantis and pinbits merlin protectors yes. I described that in an earlier post here, don't want to go over it again. The trick though is DO NOT deform the mantis protector, it will not go back to its original shape easily if at all and will not fit properly after that.

The other thing I noticed with that castle hole exposed, is that the mantis castle protector, cobblestone piece that protects the wood in from of the lock shot door, does not adequately protect the hole leading wood edge, that protector should be longer by at least an 8th of an inch. I have some wood damage there and the protector was there from day 1.

#2292 2 years ago

Woooooooooo! Got my email last nite! It's almost MMR time. Thanks gexchange!

#2293 2 years ago

anybody install the playing field protector form Germany?

#2294 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Actually I just installed the cliffy moat jump as well. I probably have a rare machine now that has both the mantis and cliffy moat jump installed. If I was to do it over again, I'd pick the Cliffy only as you get the full wood and moat plastic protector with the extended protector feature. In the end, the dis-assembly for the Cliffy was probably a little less intense than the mantis, no mole connector dis-connects needed and minimal wood screws. The cliffy was not designed it seems, to be installed AFTER the mantis. Don't see this anywhere, but if you install both, install the cliffy between the playfield and the mantis, or like me, I did not do that, so you'll have to jury rig the one screw hole that won't line up correctly now. (2 existing screws are used for the cliffy top-side, the one on the short width of the lock hole does not line up since the mantis protector thickness was not considered if the mantis is already on).
Some Cliffy install advice: Unscrew the screws on top of each castle turret and remove the castle tops and front in whole. Loosen the catapault nut and take it off, the one above the flasher stack, on top of the black vertical pole, and remove 2 other nuts on the peasant ramp. Remove the red flasher plastic for one of those. Now remove the flasher plastic below the catapault on the left side of the castle, where there is a stack of plastic. First remove the flasher there, it disconnects, and remove it. Remove the 2 layers of plastic around that flasher by pinching the white shim pieces at the top with some needlenose pliers, be gentle. This lets you access the playfield nuts. Remove 2 nuts on the horizontal plastic that sits on top of the metal ball rail and work those up to remove the plastic. Now you have access to the 2 playfield wood screws that the cliffy uses. I took those out, lifted the ball rail a little and squeezed the cliffy underneath, also bent the side of the cliffy away from the wood, the cliffy side that has the underfield tab. Once in under the ball rail, I pushed that bent side back and the tab goes under the playfield between it and the moat. I used a pair of needlenose pliers that had a soft covering on the handles and wedged it in the lock hole to push the bent side of the cliffy back into proper shape. That's pretty much it, now re-assemble.
I did install the mantis and pinbits merlin protectors yes. I described that in an earlier post here, don't want to go over it again. The trick though is DO NOT deform the mantis protector, it will not go back to its original shape easily if at all and will not fit properly after that.
The other thing I noticed with that castle hole exposed, is that the mantis castle protector, cobblestone piece that protects the wood in from of the lock shot door, does not adequately protect the hole leading wood edge, that protector should be longer by at least an 8th of an inch. I have some wood damage there and the protector was there from day 1.

I dunno, your install instructions for the Cliffy sound way more complicated!

Any screws needed for the Cliffy, or just existing screws?

#2295 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I dunno, your install instructions for the Cliffy sound way more complicated!
Any screws needed for the Cliffy, or just existing screws?

2 existing on top, one new underneath. Funny that the screw was not shipped with the Cliffy so maybe Clif thinks it is not needed, as most of his stuff is pressfit or uses existing screws. The mantis requires 3 new screws and is shipped with them.

#2296 2 years ago

I want my Madness
Giving away my age

#2297 2 years ago

My super awesome topper

20170909_151744 (resized).jpg

#2298 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My super awesome topper

I like it, but would have them face each other like they're going to battle.

#2299 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My super awesome topper

If you stick an LED in one of those guys I bet 25% of all pinsiders will pay $89.95 or more for it.

#2300 2 years ago
Quoted from Quadrat:

I like it, but would have them face each other like they're going to battle.

They used to be but the shaker makes them dance around.

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