You fix it.

Same as 20+ year old games.

LTG : )

U call cgc and buy a new one or exchange if still in warranty.

If I remember correctly, each insert is actually a collection of three surface mounted LEDs. If one of those happens to go out, the other two increase in intensity to make up for the failed LED.

Anyone think the next run of mmr will have a big screen and updated sound system like afmr?

Yeah no chance. Maybe as a future premium product but if they just up and made the standards better than the LEs all those LE buyers would riot.

I think for the $400 the "color upgrade" costs that they could just bump the price up a hundo or so and sell us a whole new panel tho, that'd be cool.

All of the PCB's in a pinball machine are custom.
Surface mount is not a problem for repairs it just takes a slightly different skill set( its actually a bit easier to fix if you have the hot air gun some heat masking tape and a few other tools, IMHO...)

Anyone have spiderweb cracking patterns in the clear that's over the inserts on MMR? I have a standard manu'd in Dec 2016. With the insert lit, there's spiderweb cracks seen on all inserts in the castle gate shot path and merlin shot path and others as well. Especially the red arrow at the castle gate entrance.

Pics?

Finished BFTK for the second time tonight... Never gets old!

Does anyone else have trouble with the catapult? Sometimes the ball makes it around just fine, other times it seems to hit something at the top by the switch or maybe it is the switch that it is hitting. Then the ball comes to almost a complete stop and trickles down to the left return lane. Fewer times the ball will hit the top as described before and roll down the left ramp. I have adjusted the wire form to the right and left many times as well as the power setting. It is so frustrating and ruins the flow of the game. Please help!!!

Sounds like crazing. Lots of info on it on the forum.

Never seen the catapult misfire on my pin. Likely some sort of adjustment is needed; someone may be able to advise. GL.

Can you describe your strategy? I had my best game this weekend, only 59+ million though. Completed Royal Madness, had Joust Champion and Catapault Ace and Master of Trolls master inserts lit, 4 castles and one ball left. I decided to concentrate on the castle with the last ball and drained.

There is some adjustment in the catapault bracket but not much. It needs to be non-constricting to the catapault slot, or a ball will go in there and get stuck. That's the only adjustment to the catapault (plus adding a Cliffy in there) I have made to solve that issue.

The ball always makes it out of the wireform but seems to hit something when it rounds the corner on the plastic ramp heading toward the switch

Sorry I thought you were describing something else, meaning how the ball gets into the catapault on the playfield. I've never had a wireform issue, but I did take it off when I put the catapault cliffy in. The wireform to plastic ramp connection snaps in, non-adjustable I think. Anyway, don't think I am being helpful...

I have had it hit the castle! Loosen the bolts and realign that wireworm so that it hugs the ramp a little more on the left side. That should do it.

I have a bit of a strategy, but I'm not good enough to really stick to it most games haha!

I try to start the game by hitting the castle gate first, so that when I get Merlin, he doesn't give me the crappy drawbridge opening. Ideally, I want to get Light Trolls, and from there I try to stack all the madnesses (Catapult, Joust, Damsel, Peasant). As I'm doing this, I'm also trying to lock balls in the castle for that multiball. I rarely ever shoot at the castle intentionally unless I'm in a multiball. Once the madnesses are lit, or I at least have two of them, I'll start that multiball, take out 10 trolls if I'm lucky, and then do nothing but shoot for the castle. Then I'll go for Royale Madness (usually I'll miss the extra ball) and then start working on reloading all the madnesses to get another multiball. It's best to have trolls lit, as you will get to start the multiball once 5 trolls are hit, and if you have all madnesses, you actually get a 4 ball multiball. When I start a castle multiball, I try to get the lit ramps and collect an extra ball. And then of course, shoot for the castle.

I find I need two castle multiballs, and two multiball madnesses if I want to get to BFTK. It takes a lot of castle shots to beat all 6, and of course it's suicide to just shoot at them with one ball in play.

Feel free to PM me if you want to chat more.

Cheers

So my new MMR is supposed to ship from Chicago Gaming this week (per my awesome distributor), I missed the stern built run and am completely stoked.
Is anyone else on the list for CG/non-stern built MMR? Would this be considered as a MMRR? ;P.

I'm waiting on one.

I'm waiting on one also, as well as an AFMr.

Just curious what everyone's settings are for flipper, catapult, popper, solenoid, shaker, trough, for MMR? I've tried to read old posts on this but not much extensive info: This is what I currently have and understand that this is an individual preference. My catapult has to be at #2 setting in order to clear two balls at on time. Thank you for your input.

Flipper + 2
Popper + 1
Catapult + 2
Solenoid + 1
Shaker Light
Trough Default

I'm assuming my settings won't help you, but everything on my MMR LE is default. I haven't changed any settings from my original install last fall. Had two balls in catapult multiple times and never an issue clearing. Playfield is at 6.5deg and my son has completed BFTK (unfortunately, I have not) so everything seems to be dialed in pretty well from factory settings for mine.

Ok, so my playfield is at 6.9, maybe I should lower it to 6.5 and switch to your settings and see what that does? I would rather be at factory settings and understand that the modified settings are a nice addition to the game. Also I forgot to mention that at about 3/4 of the way down on the catapult ramp the ball sometimes falls off and doesn't return to the left outline like it should. (Irritating) Just looking for feedback guys and gals, thanks again.

All default but catapault +1 to clear 2 balls. No need for +2 there.

I got a great response on another thread, that this might be scratch patterns in the inserts from playfield sanding. I am 90% sure that that is what it is.

I bought some real amor off of ebay a plastic skull and some green leds and put together this topper. I have the whole thing assembled on a chunk of 2 x 6 and its heavy. It just sits up there with no hardware as the shoulder armor hugs the head a little on each side. I also put one of those halloween led fire lamps on the back. It was fun to make and definately adds to the stature of the game.

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All default on MMR with a 7.1 degree pitch and no catapult issues here.

Instead of using that as a topper, you should wear it while playing!

I'd secure it to the top somehow, as someone will shake the machine enough sooner or later and that topper will come crashing down........

I just upgraded to software version 2.0.2 I noticed that the start up bong is missing?
Is that correct?

I still have 2.0.1 and my start up bong is missing as well ( has been like that since I got it). Can anyone confirm if that is normal for MMR?

That is indeed normal.

Cool, thanks.

A few days ago I made a post asking for help with a catapult problem. Still couldn't figure out the problem. Here are a few pictures of my catapult wireform. It looks to me like it is bent. I have a ticket in with CGC but no response yet. Lloyd did respond, but nothing yet from CGC. Is this how the wireform is supposed to look or is it truly bent? The catapult has not worked correctly since the game was new 2 months ago.

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Curious to hear from anyone who has played a newer CGC remake versus the original Stern remake.

I recently got my AFMr LE and the build quality seems noticeably greater.

Is it safe to assume that you mean greater than your MMR build quality since that's the thread we're in? Or if not, what is it greater than?

If you are referring to the MMR, what items on yours seem of noticeably lesser build quality? I have had zero issues on my MMR LE and can't imagine what items I would want to be built better. I do realize that a few have had issues on here, but I always assumed it was from poor QC on that particular game. But maybe I'm missing some overall build quality items that were discussed in the last 2200+ posts.

It's more the feel than anything. AFMR feels sturdy, where I find MMR in comparison feels slightly rickety.

Might just be me, or my specific game, but I do feel that AFM is built better. I used the word "noticeable" in my last post, but that may not be a fair way of describing it, as the difference in quality in my opinion is probably closer to subtle.

It doesn't help either that I had a host of issues right out of the box with my MMR

Regardless... Two fantastic games that will probably never leave my growing collection.

I would have to agree that MMr does feel slightly rickety in comparison to AFMr. I notice on my MMR that when you lift the playfield, you need to work it side to side so that you don't scrape the sides against the side rails. Feels as if the cabinet isn't square or is too small for the playfield.

Agreed, mine has the same issue. Only real fault I can find on mine.......

Yes, I have that issue as well. With AFMR, I feel I can lift up and down without too much concern.

My small castle door just dropped off my castle recently. Now it's hanging on with zip ties since I was ready to take the castle off an fix it.

So that is why I was wondering if there was a build quality improvement with the CGC made MMRs.

Ummm, same parts just being assembled in a different place is what I understand, so I wouldn't expect it to be a lot different.

I mean, I'm getting a CGC one so it would be NICE if it was like somehow "better" but I seriously doubt it.

Anyone have any info on some upgrades for the MMr? I have the AFMr now and the bar is set so high on the play experience. I heard they were going to offer the screen for MM at some point. That would be a start. The speakers need some work as well. I'll have to live without a topper and extra lighting. Would be nice to have these machines look like they 'belong together'.

They are using an improved melamine covered cabinet for AFMr. To the best of my knowledge they didn't do this for MMr, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Could this account for a subtle difference in feel? I have an MMr on order, probably one built by CGC, so in a few months I will be able to directly compare the two. The plywood bottom is standard in both:

"The game's cabinetry has been greatly improved. Both the cabinet and backbox are manufactured with melamine clad plywood. Melamine is 10 times more scratch resistant than traditional lacquer finishes. The original fiberboard cabinet bottom has been replaced with a ½" plywood bottom - significantly improving the strength of the cabinet and providing added protection for the cashbox."

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/afm.php

Would like to know if the new MMR has a melamine covered cabinet.

As far as the speakers go, you can upgrade the speakers and it will make a slight difference. AFMr has a different sound package all together, speakers, sub and amp. Therefore they would need to improve the total sound package in the new CGC MMr built units.

I got an MMr standard recently did the color upgrade. Looks awesome.

I noticed that the drawbridge is not centered in the castle opening. Seems like the entire castle is off kilter a little bit. Anyone else notice this with their game?

Any recommendations for centering up the castle better with the drawbridge?

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Loosen screws holding castle front, slide castle front over a little. Tighten screws.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd! I was hoping it was going to be something simple but really hadn't looked at it too closely yet... I'm on it!