Hopkins, MN
Quoted from rotordave:anyone else had this issue?
You mean magnetized balls not rolling down the ball trough. A few people I would imagine.
New balls or this - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809
LTG : )
(Topic ID: 128232)
Linked Games
Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
-
Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
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Quoted from rotordave:but generally not brand new ones in a game with no magnets!
You don't need magnets to magnetize steel.
Before electricity or anything. You bang two chunks of steel together - they magnetize. Balls do the same thing in the game, hitting steel and each other. some brands more so than others.
LTG : )
Quoted from rotordave:I think the same thing happened to my own balls ...
Oh. I'm sure of it. Yours clank.
LTG : )
Quoted from rotordave:Oh, you’ve heard them too?
Yes. And over half a planet away.
When you last visited the USA. I thought Big Ben had invaded the country.
LTG : )
Quoted from bent98:does anyone make a williams style purple replacement flipper without the raised williams logo? Pinball Life makes them but not in Purple.
Try white ones and Rit dye.
LTG : )
Quoted from bent98:rit dye looks like its for fabrics.
People have used it on flippers in the past. I don't know what colors or how successful it was.
LTG : )
Quoted from Reefkeep:what setting is it that shows your initials and high scores?
In the manual page 1-51. A.4 01 set to on.
LTG : )
Quoted from bent98:What would you recommend for possibly grinding off the Williams logo? I have a small dremel but not sure what tip can be used for fine control.
Dremel would be too hot.
I'd lay a flat piece of sand paper down and sand it off by hand. Keep using finer grits so you leave a smooth surface.
LTG : )
Quoted from bent98:I need purple. As mentioned, PBL doesnt come in purple.
I think he meant to buy the plain ones to dye and save the logo ones.
LTG : )
Quoted from PtownPin:I'm sure this has been asked and answered but I'll ask again. When I upgrade my MMRLE to the new code will it erase my high scores and the number of total game plays?
Shouldn't. Mine didn't.
LTG : )
Quoted from wiggy07:The updates make transforms the game into the Royal Edition.
These are upgrades that make your MMR more like AFMR LE or MBR LE. Topper, big display, better speakers, RGB GI lighting.
They do not turn a MMR into a Royal Edition. Which has more features.
LTG : )
Quoted from kapsreiter:the difference is just the leg and trim color
And side mirrors, shaker motor, RGB lighting in the pop bumpers, changing speaker lights.
LTG : )
Quoted from kapsreiter:side mirrors, installed
shaler, installedhmmm the RE have ......
RGB lighting in the pop bumpers,
would be tricky to get 4 wires through the small holes inside the bumpers
You can make a MMR into a royal. But it won't be a CGC produced one.
I just hate to see people trying to sell a souped up one for more money. Like the Addams that pop up that are made to look like an Addams Gold.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Is the Topper PCB available standalone anywhere?
You can buy the kit for the topper from Planetary Pinball Supply, and many distributors.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Is the Topper PCB available standalone anywhere?
Just the topper board ? If so check with Planetary Pinball Supply.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Anybody have this happen?
In commercial use. Common occurrence.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Just bend back?
That works. At some point I'd have a spare handy. Ball coming up from the ball trough and hitting the switch can be hard on it.
A bit tricky to adjust. If it's a tiny bit lower. But still works and stays closed with a ball on it. Would be nice.
LTG : )
Quoted from TimBoch:I've been dealing with this off and on since I got mine too. I just bend it back and it works until it gets bent again. I wonder if lowering it might help?
I'd get a new switch. Once this happens it gets easier every time. Lower a tiny bit yet still works and stays closed with a ball on it.
This can happen on any game using the Williams style ball trough.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Just installed the XL display and it doesnt look as good as the others I've seen.
Please update your game to the latest software.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Even better, the update failed at 81%
The screen says 3.0 is in there even though it failed. Try it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I'll see if I can get more information from CGC.
You just did. You are good to go.
LTG : )
Quoted from eharan:You should be good. I spoke with CGC and they confirmed that if it says 3.0, you are good. They said it is timing out in the closure process but the full code is there.
This is correct.
LTG : )
Quoted from broada:Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?
For a start. Turn the game when. When fully powered up. Open the coin door. Hit the ENTER button once. What does the screen say ?
Any errors would report then.
LTG : )
Quoted from KingPinGames:you will want to get in contact with CGC and verify if this is an older board that might need replacing in order to update to 3.0
He has 3.0 in the game. The screen says failed when update stopped. But if you check the CGC menu first page. 3.0 is in there.
You can contact CGC, they'll tell you the same thing.
LTG : )
Quoted from Fieldsweeper:What do you get on the higher up remake versions over the original?
Scroll down a way to see the variations.
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness
LTG : )
Quoted from Fieldsweeper:can you take a standard or classic and upgrade to the larger xl display?
As long as it has the upgrade color chip in it, I believe so.
And the latest software.
LTG : )
Quoted from Scandell:Do I neee to remove the old little board and add this new longer one?
I'd do that.
LTG : )
Quoted from andrewket:The kits are supposed to make a pin a royal edition
No they never were.
Just to help the original MMR's look more like AFM and MBR with the big display and toppers.
CGC didn't want to leave the owners left behind.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I really dont want to move the board
Move it up a little.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I still have the RGB GI Mod to do and if I raise the board then these wires may be problematic...
Not if you raise it a little.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Rokablly:The LE might have some castle issues as the towers didn't move that much when blown up. It was not a dramatic explosion at all.
Not much to the towers. Four screws and the whole tower assembly lifts off. Easy to work on, fix springs or anything. A plunger kicks up and rocks the big tower which in turn rocks three of the four smaller ones.
Maybe plunger issue or broken base of the big one that the plunger whacks.
LTG : )
Quoted from haveaniceswim:I have a question on troll sensitivity. My MMR came out of the box new in August with both trolls requiring a solid head-on hit to register. I had an issue with the bolts coming loose on the right troll, which I fixed and haven’t had any issues since. But to register a hit on either troll requires a direct, hard hit. Soft hits and glancing blows don’t count.
Quoted from pinfarmer:I'd like to know the intended sensitivity as well.
I'd set it so the slightest ball hit triggers it. But vibration doesn't. Otherwise when it goes up it will register a hit and drop.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cayenne:Is there any photo or guide how to reduce the gap in the leaf switch to make the troll more sensitive?
Red arrow points to shorter rear leaf blade. Yellow arrow points to direction to bend it closer to the long leaf blade on the troll face. Adjust that shorter blade as close to the fiberboard spacers between the two leaf blades.
LTG : )
Trollface (resized).JPGQuoted from Westsiderkg:Says right troll switch 46 is bad.
Could I get help on where the switch is located
The leaf blade switch the troll face on the right is hooked to.
Check for broken wires. Tests - Switch Edge - push the troll face, if it registers then, just needs to be more sensitive. Also check if stuck closed.
If it needs adjusting. Red arrow points to shorter rear leaf blade, yellow arrow points to direction it needs to go. Bend as close to the fiberboard spacers near the bottom of both leaf blades as you can.
LTG : )
Trollface (resized).JPGQuoted from guss:I installed the add-ons to make my mmr a royal. Should the new acronym be mmr-r or mmrcr ( mmr converted royal )
More of an upgraded MMR, not a Royal.
LTG : )
Quoted from davej:Hi, just installed the display upgrade. A couple of questions. Should the speaker lights be on
Should be on and blue.
LTG : )
Quoted from Faust:My question is if it is feature-wise then fully equal to the royal, or does this have more features?
Scroll down to the chart :
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness
See the differences there.
LTG : )
Quoted from russdx:Is there a kit to upgrade the pops from purple to the transparent RGB ones?
No.
LTG : )
Quoted from seah2os:My first credit dot after 7 months from purchase! “Check switch 25 r troll target”. I’ve performed the various switch tests and confirmed open/close. It appears to be working fine. However, the credit dot will not go away. Suggestions? Thanks!
That is the up down switch. Troll target would be the leaf blade switch the troll face is hooked to. Might be stuck closed or needs to be more sensitive.
Tests - Switch Edge - when you push the switch, watch what number reports on the screen.
LTG : )
Quoted from seah2os:Nothing says switch 25. Am I reading/testing this right?
No.
Page 2-40 in the manual - #25 is the stand up target behind the right pop up troll assembly.
LTG : )
Quoted from broada:Is the right troll target the yellow stand up target in front of the castle?
(Never mind - LTG answered this!)
You helped. Thank you !
LTG : )
Quoted from CaptainRedEye:My right slingshot keeps firing on its own (even when the ball is in the pop bumpers). It does it a lot. The left one doesn’t do this. What’s wrong and how do I fix it?
Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Cayenne:What is the easiest and safest solution to remove the troll and how?
Lift it up. Clamp a vice grip on the troll carriage so it doesn't fall back into the playfield. Adjust leaf blade, see picture.
Or uplug the troll face connector. Remove the bolt securing the troll carriage to the plunger. Wiggle off the plunger lift straight up and lean to the left to have the up/down switch extension clear the hole in the playfield. On the left troll you'd need to remove the wireform over him.
LTG : )
Trollface (resized).JPGQuoted from Cayenne:when you write "On the left troll you'd need to remove the wireform over him" you mean that the troll flap must be removed?
No, the whole wireform ramp that is overhead of the left troll. The one he bangs into going up.
Locknut on the slingshot, a screw in a hex post half way back.
LTG : )
Quoted from sizzler747:Should I bend the wire up some?
Learn to carefully adjust the switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from N101AA:Are there any other adjustments that I can make to prevent the ball from getting stuck behind the right troll?
The diverter flap sticking out the back. Red arrows pointing to it. Bend it a little farther out. Not too much or it won't go up and down in the hole right.
LTG : )
MMTrollback (resized).JPGQuoted from haveaniceswim:Do I need to oil it?
Don't F*ing do that.
If the plunger seems to be dragging in the coil sleeve. Easy fix.
Turn game off. Remove balls ( game, not yours ) lift playfield up and lean on backbox.
Unhook coil connector. Remove bolt holding troll carriage to plunger. Remove two brackets/four screws holding coil/plunger on.
Now that you have the coil and plunger out. Remember the order of the parts, coil, brackets, coil sleeve, etc.
The plunger is two piece, held together by a roll pin. That roll pin is sticking out a bit. Pound it back in. File the area smooth. Check if coil sleeve is cracked or broken.
Reassemble. Done. Miller time.
LTG : )
Quoted from N101AA:This would also be a good time to check that the game is level as it may have been moved inadvertently out of the divots in the carpet.
Good plan.
Quoted from N101AA:This problem started when I replaced the entire troll assembly a few months ago.
Compare to the other side underneath the playfield. Maybe the bracket holding everything is bent a little forward or back.
LTG : )
Quoted from OilGuy:“check tower diverter stuck closed”.
Page 1-54 in the manual describes it. What has to happen to not get that error.
Or play a bunch of games and it will probably clear.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from gjm7777:When playing the game and starting troll modes, every so often the right troll has a long delay before it rises, in a few occasions it hasn't come up at all.
Sounds like it's binding. Either the collar that holds the carriage to the plunger is coming loose from the carriage. Or the roll pin that holds the two piece plunger together is sticking out a little bit and binding inside the coil sleeve.
LTG : )
Quoted from boostedskex:Any specific tips
Before securing the board in the head. Be sure cables reach. So you don't have to move it later.
The knocker - In commercial use I left it there and only drilled holes for three T Nuts and bolts, for the topper. I didn't move the knocker and mount it elsewhere and drill a T Nut hole in that spot.
I figured if three T Nuts and bolts weren't enough, one more wouldn't matter. As is with three, you'd still rip the top of the head off long before one more T Nut and bolt mattered.
LTG : )
Quoted from northvibe:My gi kit came today
Be sure you update to the 3.0 with the micro SD card that comes with the kit.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Adaminski:Any suggestions on how to best make this work without buying and replacing the complete switch?
Pound a tiny brass rivet into the hole.
Or get a cheap leaf blade switch and take one blade out of it and substitute it into the troll face leaf blade stack.
Screw on the bottom of the cabinet looks like one that holds a coin chute in on your coin door.
Quoted from Adaminski:it looks like I have to remove the troll in any scenario,
Turn the game off. Remove the wireform above him. Below the playfield disconnect the connector to the troll switch. Remove the bolt/pin holding the troll carriage to the plunger. Wiggle free. Lift up and out, lean to the left to clear the part that triggers the up down switch.
Now you can easily work on the troll.
LTG : )
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-slingshot-kicker-switch.html
Pull the fiberboard spacers apart. The short one should work nicely when installed in the troll face leaf blade switch stack.
LTG : )
Quoted from MasterTinkerer:What’s the best way to go about getting a replacement key?
You have a 2nd key ? Tweezers or small needle nose pliers. Yank it out.
Or stick a screw driver in the end, turn it, open door. Replace it.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from MK6PIN:Is there a battery in here or something that might have just worked loose (?).
Yes. Round 2032 near top center of little board in the head. Holder and battery may need cleaning.
LTG : )
Quoted from Cayenne:I tried, but the ramp sides are fixed, so only to remove the screw on top of the post sleeves was not succesful.
Remove the screws on top of the post sleeve and the two small screws holding the plastic ramp down. Then you can lift the ramp up enough to change the post sleeves.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from seah2os:And is it normal that when the ball is plunged, it immediately scores 5000 on the rollover switch at the upper right corner?
Switch is too sensitive or arm on the switch is sticking or dragging in the slot in the playfield it goes up and down in.
LTG : )
On line manual you can download.
Quoted from LTG:Page 1-54 and 1-55 in the manual.
Later printed manual.
Quoted from MK6PIN:Mine is 1-57, then 2-21...manual is Rev. 3.0....
Quoted from MK6PIN:All good though
Thank you !
LTG : )
Quoted from seah2os:Thoughts?
Tests - Switch Edge - press on the apron and fix or adjust what reports on the screen.
LTG : )
Quoted from seah2os:I’ve narrowed it down to Switch 67. Right Loop Low. Odd thing is when I lightly push on the diverter metal between the shooter lane and playfield, it senses that. But only on the lower part of the diverter, not up by the activating switch.
Fix the shorted wiring.
LTG : )
Quoted from chillme:traveling to the left outline drop. The ball will fly off and land some place on the playfield.
Lower flipper strength, or try and figure out if the wireform got bent a little and needs to be a little higher on one side.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Rat:Is the solenoid supposed to trap the ball every tower shot?
Yes. I'd check that it's position hasn't shifted, or the tower. And parts like the plunger, coil sleeve etc. Are tight and not worn or moving more than needed.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:any adjustments or tweaks to help it capture the ball?
Lower flipper strength, or raise playfield pitch.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:What is the best way to remove the wires from the molex plug without damaging the pins.
Flip it over. Push the metal tab in, gently pull wire and pin out.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Can anyone please tell me where to find the Williams logo and the process of how to add it to the XL display? Thanks so much!
Check the MBR thread for logo. Instructions in the MBR manual. You can download from the CGC website.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:On the power switch board in the bottom of the cabinet there is a plug to accept a PC power cord what is that used for ?
Service outlet. Trouble light. Soldering iron. Nuclear reactor.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:What’s the proper way to remove the Troll assemblies so I can do the troll eye mod.
Left side you need to remove the wireform over it.
Under playfield disconnect troll head switch connector. Remove the hex nut on the collar holding the troll carriage to the plunger. Lower playfield. Lift troll carriage up, and lean left so bar that hits the up down switch clears the playfield. It's out.
LTG : )
Quoted from seah2os:I don’t see a switch that tells the gate coil it is up/down.
Under the playfied - rear of the green plastic moat. See if it's loose, fell off, or needs adjusting so the ball hits it.
If gate doesn't stay up, ball isn't getting where it needs to get to.
Check wiring to three coil lugs, make sure the connector is plugged onto the driver board.
LTG : )
Quoted from seah2os:So I’m not sure I explained it correctly enough previously to say the issue doesn’t appear, (in my uneducated guess), that the issue isn’t on what’s going on in the backside of the gate, but perhaps on the gate itself?
You explained it good. I have to try and explain the game has no idea where the gate is. Only that a switch isn't getting trigger by a ball when the gate is up and the ball is rolling to it.
Fix the gate. Pretty simple mech. Coil is like a flipper coil. Three wires for power and hold. Hold isn't working. Check solder joints at coil, especially the thin wires from the coil itself to the lugs, and also go over the connector to the driver board for the gate coil. Reseat it, check for pins sticking up from it and not pushed it tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from benime:If not, would the hex posts from the parts list here (https://www.ipdb.org/files/4032/Williams_1997_Medieval_Madness_Parts_List.txt) be accurate in terms of quantities/lengths for MMR?
Yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from J_Striker:. is the speaker lights only blue
This. Only blue.
You could search this thread on how to make them RGB.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Does anyone have the procedure for removing the front of the castle so I can replace that screw ?
Take the two tower tops off. One screw each. Then pull the castle front straight up. That's it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Could someone please tell me how to remove the exploding tower assembly? Thanks so much
I could tell you. But then I'd have to kill you so the secret doesn't get out.
Look straight down at the towers. See the four screws holding the metal base on ? Cut outs in the clear plastic so you can get in there to remove them.
Remove the four screws. Then the whole shebang easily lifts off in one unit. Easy to work on at a table or work bench. Easy to put back in. Stick it in there, replace the four screws.
Done deal. Enjoy your game.
LTG : )
Quoted from rhampo:Or do you just have to write them down as you scroll through
Write them down is the only way.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from jathomp22:So should I try and feed the current broken spring back through
Oh yeah. That would be a lot of fun.
4 screws hold the whole tower assembly on. Easy to remove. Easy to work on.
I'd remove it, bend the last loop of the spring over. Hook it on again. Put the tower assembly back on and put the four screws back in.
LTG : )
fix (resized).JPGgoodasnew (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from smailskid:In test mode the error code is "Gate stuck Closed"
Page 1-54 and 1-55 in the manual lists errors and what has to happen to clear them.
Most likely a switch isn't working when hit when it should.
LTG : )
Quoted from smailskid:What would have "failed" if the opto is registering?
The switch under the playfield on the green plastic moat isn't getting hit by the ball after it rolls past the gate.
Check if it's loose, or fallen off.
In tests and game play, the gate does go up and down ?
LTG : )
Quoted from smailskid:During gameplay the gate raises and then falls very quickly instead of staying open. ....
I'd concentrate on the moat switch, maybe stuck closed ?
LTG : )
Quoted from smailskid:During gameplay the gate raises and then falls very quickly instead of staying open
Also that coil has three lugs like a flipper coil. Maybe a broken wire at the coil for the hold ? Go over the solder joints at the lugs, especially the thin wire from the coil windings to the lug - easy to have a crack or break you can't see.
Then follow the wires to the driver board that coil plugs onto. ( turn game off ) that driver board is held on by screws to the huge board below the playfield. Remove the screws, no need to unplug all the connectors. Unplug that driver board from the huge board, a row of ten pins on one side plugs them together. Then plug the board back in and push the tops of those pins in a bit to seat the driver board into the huge board good.
LTG : )
Quoted from smailskid:Do they have board versions where the driver board does not plug into the large board? I remember looking for this (I saw this advice in another thead) but didn't see it.....
The Royal, maybe others ? Have the driver board in the head like AFMR and MBR.
LTG : )
Quoted from ralphs007:How responsive is CGC when you have an out of warranty problem?
Open a ticket on the website. Tech support is great.
Out of warranty, you'd have to buy parts. Not from CGC, they don't sell parts, only supply things covered under warranty.
Quoted from ralphs007:I tried calling them last week
Your call didn't go to me. Hit "0" for operator and ask for a person.
LTG : )
Quoted from Medic:I have a mm se edition. How difficult is it to put a CGC topper on it. Thanks
Here are the instructions.
LTG : )
King of Payne Topper Kit Instructions rev 3.pdfQuoted from Medic:Does anyone know if mm topper is shorter than Monster bash’s?
No, it isn't shorter.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from broada:Any ideas for how to discover what might be causing the multiple blown fuses?
Check what coils the fuse protects. Start there. Bad coil ? Coil lugs close to metal and shorting ? Start with the auto launch coil, see if it's lugs hit the lockdown bar receiver when in the game and check the base of the coil for burns or problem with the windings.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from SpyroFTW:Has anyone bent this switch so it will get activated?
Yes.
First be sure it is centered in the slot in the playfield so it isn't rubbing/dragging going up or down.
You can bend the arm of the switch up a tiny bit. Almost an art to it. So it works, yet doesn't trap the ball.
See the picture. Adjust where the black arrows point. Ignore red and white arrows. Yellow arrow points to tiny knob the arm pushes up and down in the switch body. Don't mess with it's action.
LTG : )
switchadjust (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from Bmwdrummer:Any chance someone has an uninstalled RGB Lighting Kit for an MMR that they'd be willing to part with?
Check with KingPinGames he recently posted he had one of each kit, didn't want to break them up. But somebody was looking for one of the three and he might split them up.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:But somebody was looking for one of the three and he might split them up.
Sorry. That person was looking for the RGB kit too.
LTG : )
Quoted from rhampo:do you have a link to it?
https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-merlin-scoop/
LTG : )
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Question... Are the MMRR toppers all sold out? Any retailers have any left for sale?
Check with KingPinGames he has all 3 kits. Someone asked about buying just the RGB, so he might have one to sell.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I know they sell individual rgb led modules on the planetary pinball site if you really wanted
Umm............. He's looking for the topper.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:Question, I've noticed sometimes the Peasent Ramp doesn't register my shots to it. Not often but it has happened. Where is the solenoid that registers a successful pass. Is it the thing behind the castle and if so should I bend it a bit to catch better?
You sure you don't have a switch that needs adjusting ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinkitten:the playfields used by CGC
They make their own playfields. And cabinets.
LTG : )
Quoted from Bigbossfan:.HELP!
The metal box over the on/off switch area has a PCB wiith fuses, check the LEDs there.
Outlet good ? Power cord shoved into rear of the machine tight ? Try plugging something into service outlet, see if you have power that far. Then check connectors in rear of game around the transformer.
LTG : )
Quoted from Bigbossfan:Not quite sure what you're talking about with the metal box.
That is it.
Quoted from Bigbossfan:But I don't see any LED's.
The two greens ones that are lit, your fuses are fine. You have power that far.
Quoted from Bigbossfan:And now for the grand finale....the service outlet. Unless I'm missing something, this doesn't look like an ordinary service outlet to me....not something I can plug into anyway.
You need a computer cord. Like this - https://www.microcenter.com/product/290727/micro-connectors-iec-60320-c14-male-to-nema-5-15r-female-monitor-power-adapter-1-ft-black
LTG : )
Quoted from rob3:I just moved my machine and now for some reason
Turn it off. Lift playfield. Anything loose, out of place, shorting to metal ?
Something happened in the move.
LTG : )
Quoted from DeeGor:I believe that update was to support the newer beaglebone boards.
To support the bigger display.
LTG : )
Quoted from foxtj24:If I remember right, You take the sd card from the game and put the new code on it.
Not quite right.
Load the update on a micro SD card. Insert on board in the backbox. Turn game on, it updates. Turn game off. Remove micro SD card.
Full instructions here :
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness/update
LTG : )
Quoted from PaulCoff:Is there a certain one and how much memory should it have?
In the link I posted. Sandisc 32GB.
LTG : )
Quoted from PaulCoff:Anyone get these screen pics while they were updating their MMR?
Yes.
Turn your game off. Remove micro SD card. Put the light tub and backglass back.
Turn your game on. When fully booted. Go into CGC menu. First page. Your game now has 3.0.0
That is the way some of the earlier beagle boards responded. Nothing failed. You aren't missing anything in the update. It's all in there.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Whynot:What’s the biggest changes from the 2015 remake to the 2019
Driver board in backbox rather than three of them under the playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from Whynot:Is that anything I would notice as a player
NO.
Quoted from Whynot:Should I be hesitant at all on buying the 2015 LE version?
No.
Quoted from Whynot:Does the three driver boards layout create any history of problems?
They are identical. Easy to interchange to check anything. In tech support the only thing I've seen. And not a lot. Is you might have to reseat one of them if some coils don't work. There is a row of pins on one side that plug into the huge board below the playfield. Turn game off. Leave connectors on. Remove screws. Unplug board. Plug it back in. Push nubs on tops of pins to get a good seat. Put screws back in. Done.
LTG : )
Quoted from mrcosmo:Any advice on how to get it to swing shut.
I'd remove the castle front and investigate why, what's binding it. Remove the castle turrets. Then the whole castle front pulls up and out. Then it will be easier to figure out.
LTG : )
Quoted from rob3:Looks like switch 44 is not working.
Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball through the swinging castle door - does the switch on the moat under the playfield register ? If not check the switch. It is on the green moat under the playfield. See if it's loose, not plugged in, need adjusting.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from rob3:Does this mean the solenoid is bad?
No. A solenoid doesn't know what 45 degrees is.
Have you tried this ?
Easy to do. Remove balls. Turn game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. Find the driver board. No need to unhook the connectors. Remove the screws holding the driver board to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board. It has a row of ten pins along one edge. Then plug the driver board back in. Press the tops of those ten pins to get a good seat.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Quoted from ralphs007:So is CGC
Ce- Special- also Le ?
Classic - Special Edition - Limited Edition
LTG : )
Quoted from W25ARE:people who were adding upgrades were saying the RGB speakers & pops don’t work without changing wiring. Does the SE come with one or both of these installed?
RGB speakers require a few wires being moved with the installation of the RGB kit. RGB kit doesn't include RGB lighting for pop bumpers.
SE doesn't come with RGB kit installed.
LTG : )
Quoted from 2Fun:for the life of me cannot find where this single connector red/blue goes?
No where.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinkitten:They make a little plastic that goes over the dragon for that rare occasion. I have an extra one if you’d like me to mail it to you. No charge.
From the Internet Pinball Data Base.
LTG : )
IPDB (resized).jpgQuoted from Pizzaman13:Thoughts?
Adjust the switch in the bottom of the tower.
Remove tower, check switch in Tests - Switch edge.
Likely needs adjusting.
LTG : )
Quoted from W25ARE:Is it just a case of clipping in a mech ,
Yes.
Quoted from W25ARE:enable coins in the menu?
In Adjustments Menu - A.3 Pricing- take off free play and set price.
LTG : )
Quoted from W25ARE:I’m based in the UK so need a £1 coin mech. Do you have any recommendations for one, or is it a case of order through my distributor?
If your distributor is in the UK, they'd know best what to get and where.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Pizzaman13:point me to such a list
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/ check out the Titan ring database.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Nikrox2:1) how do you adjust sensitivity on hitting the trolls ?
Bend rear leaf blade a little closer.
Quoted from Nikrox2:2) right troll suddenly quit popping up.
Check if wires to coil are still on tight, then follow to driver board they are plugged onto and be sure that connector is on tight. If all good and it doesn't pop up in test. It's driver board. Leave connectors on board. Remove the screws holding it to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board from the huge board and then plug it back in, push the nubs of the ten pins that plug into the huge board to get a tight seat. Replace the screws.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Trollface (resized).JPGQuoted from Nikrox2:Well that was a little easier said than done. As I had issues with the right one not popping up ,
Under the playfield unhook the troll face connector. Remove the hex head thing holding the carriage to the plunger. Then wiggle the troll carriage up and out, lean to the left to clear the thing that triggers the up/down switch through the playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from Nikrox2:how in the world would you get to the back of the face to put those two screws in ?
Remove troll carriage from game. Remove nut and plastic guard on front of troll carriage over the switch stack area. Cut cable tie ( remember where wire feeds through and it goes, or look at other troll assembly if you forget ). Remove two phillips head screws from troll face switch stack. Wiggle troll face switch stack out. Then it's easy to work on that little bastard.
Reassemble including tiny cable tie.
Have a beer.
LTG : )
Quoted from FlawlessJS:Am I missing something?
You didn't fail.
Turn game off. Remove micro sd card. Turn game on. Hold escape button and go into CGC menu, first page. Ta Da - 3.0 is in your game. All there, nothing missing.
LTG : )
Quoted from Paulatron:What is the latest software version? Mine says 3.0.0 beta 1.
That is it.
LTG : )
Quoted from northvibe:However, the switch itself probably just needs a visual inspection to make sure the wires are soldered to the legs still and it potentially could use an adjustment.
Or the tower has shifted and the ball isn't getting to the switch at the bottom.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from onemilemore:any thoughts/assistance appreciated.
Turn game off. Find the driver board those coils go to. Leave connectors on the board. Remove the screws holding it on. Unplug that board from the huge board. Then plug it back in, the ten nubs sticking up from the pins that plug into the huge board, gently push them in tight.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from onemilemore:Any help greatly appreciated.
Check the transistors for a blown one.
LTG : )
Quoted from onemilemore:Are those the three-pronged parts on the board there?
Yes.
Quoted from onemilemore:And if so, what am I looking for to see if they are blown?
Youtube has lots of short how to videos. Search for one checking transistors with a multimeter.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from MK6PIN:Happy Thanksgiving!!! My 3 year old grandson shows up at 11:30 am, promptly fires up my MMrRE, jumps on the stool, and goes at it!!!!
Good times!!
Doesn't get any better !
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from haveaniceswim:Is there a fix
Remove the ramp, or at least the screws holding it down. Lift up. Bend the metal flap back down. Reassemble.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:How do you adjust the weights?
Set screw on the weight holding it to the shaft of the motor.
LTG : )
Quoted from stafford87:Does anyone have any recommendations for adhesive to apply to the light strip in the back of the game? Mine has come off and would like to know what would hold it best.
Any auto parts store should have a good two sided tape for attaching body molding.
LTG : )
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I also just did my first flipper rebuild. The game feels great!!!
Thanks LTG for all the help along the way!
Excellent ! Glad I could help.
LTG : )
Quoted from MrSanRamon:My first part issue... switch 32, trough LED.
I assume that this refers to the LED2 location on the trough boards; is that correct?
Yes.
Please remove the balls, open coin door so game doesn't fire stuff looking for them. Then go into Tests - Switch Edge. Roll balls into the ball trough one at a time, see if all the optos work. If not turn the game off. Reseat the ball trough connectors, try testing again.
Also you can clean the optos and be sure nothing is in there obstructing them.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from bicyclenut:I also put a 13v flasher in and it was very dim.
Flashers get hit with higher voltage.
Put a meter on your socket to find out what voltage bulb or LED you should use.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Mahoyvan:Is there a difference between the standard and classic?
Scroll down for differences :
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness
LTG : )
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Wil continously whacking at this damn cabinet speaker with my chisel and hammer going to damage the rest of the game?
I'd be a little careful.
I slid a sharp cold chisel under one corner, lift it. Got the claw of a hammer under it and pried it up. Removed some of the high spots sliding the chisel. Called it a day when it was mostly flat.
LTG : )
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Anyone have like an Amazon link for similar screws so I can buy them ?
No hardware store near you ?
LTG : )
Quoted from northvibe:how much of a pita is removing the right ramp?
A few connectors under the playfield. A couple ramp flap screws. 4 or 5 bolts. One wireform and dragon too. Lifts right off. A good time to do some cleaning.
LTG : )
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Can u guys give me an idea how much higher u mounted the topper pcb board so the wires from the topper reached fine ? 2
Or 3 inches higher then the template?
This picture should help you. Looks like half way between the boards and metal screen over the holes in the backbox.
LTG : )
MMRKITtopperwiring (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from beltking:Anyone know which interlock switch I need to buy for my mmr le?
https://www.pinballlife.com/interlock-switch-6-leads.html?Category_Code=
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from stillchrisconley:do I need to replace the Troll Carriage completely
Yes.
Quoted from stillchrisconley:can this be fixed with some kind of epoxy or super glue?
No. Brazed maybe. Welding won't work because of different thicknesses of the metal.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from marioparty34:I am having a hard time getting them to stay stuck to the flipper.
Try super glue pro gel. A bead on top of the flipper bat should do it.
LTG : )
Quoted from marioparty34:Do you mean this? I couldn't find exactly what you are referring to.
That will work fine.
LTG : )
Quoted from marioparty34:Update: After 24 hours of curing, it flew right off in the first 10 flips.
Weird. I used that to glue a red slipper back on a woz flipper bat over 5 years ago and it's still there in commercial use.
LTG : )
Quoted from coasterguy:I'd see if the glass rattle was normal.
No. Put some weather stripping foam stuff in a couple strategic spots.
LTG : )
Quoted from Faust:What should I check next
Broken wire or bad connection. If wire could be inside the casing you can't see. Grab the old meter. Check power and continuity.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from woodmedic:Still trying to learn what all of the differences are.
Some of the differences are here - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/medieval-madness
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from glpinball:Any ideas 9n where to go here? Far as I can tell everything is working.
Play a bunch of games and it should clear.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from W25ARE:I’ve seen in some of the previous posts that the solenoid/driver board is in the backbox next to the beagle board. I’m guessing this has been moved because of all the connection issues with the big playfield board flexing etc.
No. To bring newer MMR's similar to build like AFMR, MBR, and CCR.
Quoted from W25ARE:My question is will this be the future placement on new cabinets?
It appears so.
LTG : )
Quoted from PaulCoff:Any help
Check the manual, bring all the fuses listed. Hopefully that is all you blew.
You can download the manual here - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf page 1-57
LTG : )
Quoted from duggum:I took a look at Chicago Gaming's site and don't see a listing for the troll head, can anybody give me any advice on where I could buy a left troll head (or a set, if necessary)?
Try Planetary Pinball. Chicago Gaming doesn't sell parts. http://www.planetarypinball.com/ if you don't see it, contact them on the website.
Quoted from duggum:Does anybody see a problem with that?
No. Once it's free wiggle it up and a little left so the arm on the carriage clears the playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from duggum:I assume I can remove the plastic part from the assembly and replace it with a new part.
Yes. Two screws and a metal plate. Replace in the same order, the head slips over the metal leaf blade.
Easiest to remove the screws holding the switch stack to the carriage so you can get it forward enough to deal with the screws. Or cut the cable tie and remove it from the carriage. Cable tie the wire back down again.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mike_M:suggestions?
I'd get an outlet checker and plug it into the service outlet. That would let you know the game and wall outlet are wired right, if an error comes up, then try plugging it into the wall outlet, to see if it or the game is the issue.
To start ruling things out.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mike_M:the service outlet is actually showing hot/neutral reversed!
Unplug the machine. Then figure out what to fix. Could be in the rear of the cabinet where the wiring comes in, or inside the metal box over the on/off switch.
Should be a simple swap the two wires and then check again with your outlet checker.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mike_M:Wires on the service outlet themselves look they do have hot and neutral reversed. However this would appear to only impact the service outlet itself so probably does not explain the buzzing transformer.
I think you are right. Especially since the service outlet isn't being used when you get the buzzing.
Please open a ticket on the website so the engineer can look into it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Conrad:Anyone know where to acquire them
Try Planetary Pinball Supply - http://www.planetarypinball.com/ if not on the website contact them.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Bospins:Basically I’m looking to royal this LE if that’s still possible.
If you can locate the three kits, yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from brickbuilder14:Does anyone know what type of screw goes here?
Flat head machine screw. 8/32nds by an inch and a half.
LTG : )
Quoted from brickbuilder14:It stops about 3/4 of an inch
Try to keep screwing, the one I have here looks like a locknut thing at the bottom.
Otherwise cut your screw shorter. Put a nut on it, cut it off, remove nuts. This will help any thread damage.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Any ideas would be appreciated.
Auto launch coil is the usual problem. Coil lugs shorting to metal or coil is bad whether you can see it or not.
I'd disconnect the coil, put the wires somewhere safe. And then try it. You can start a game, manually throw the ball into play, play a game and see.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from gunstarhero:I seem to have misplaced my backbox key… anyone know if all MMR LE’s were keyed alike?
No. Remove the torx security screws. Lower the lock and plate it's fastened to. To get in to the backbox if need be. Or replace the lock.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from KING-HENRY:Anyone have a Royal Topper up for grabs?
You need the board for it to. Same board came with it and also the RGB lighting.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:About buying a MMr LE? I heard weaker flippers?
They are adjustable in the CGC menu.
LTG : )
Quoted from beltking:On the Merlin hole, 25% of the time it takes 2-3 tries for the rod to push the ball out.
Same issue on many of the originals and remakes.
Under the playfield. Loosen the screws holding the coil/kicker, slip a washer between the metal bracket and underside of playfield. Tighten the screws. This will hold the ball above the kicker a little better so the kick improves.
On the best of days it just kind of piddles out of there. Not a major kick.
LTG : )
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I’ll try that as well!
Mine is not to bad. I think Lloyd told me once to re seat the board under that part of the playfield as well. Which seemed to help a bit.
If you reseat it, remember this :
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Goalie:Does anyone know where I can get new cabinet side art? My MMR just got delivered with a big scratch that happened during shipping.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/ Contact Sara about this.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from Pinminister:Lloyd, that says it is for a remake, I have an original MM.
I posted the link so it would be plug and play for a remake.
I didn't see anything at Planetary Pinball, Pinball Life, or Marco, for specifically an original MM.
Williams Medieval Madness didn't come with a shaker motor. So you'll be searching for something after market to install and to trigger it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Dr-Willy:As soon as I plug the splitter in on the dmd it says can’t communicate with playfield on the dmd
Lost connection between it and board under the playfield. Be sure it is pushed in tight both ends, back box and bottom of board when playfield is leaned back.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from gremlinuo:How do you get on the waiting list for SE next year?
Check with CGC distributors. http://www.planetarypinball.com/ is one. Contact Sara there. Call or email - [email protected]
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from winslow:Can you point me to the wiring information?
Quoted from winslow:Can you point me to the wiring information?
Page 6 7 has the nine pin pinouts information.
This plugs into the games connector. No idea on part that plugs into the side of the DBV.
Have you searched where you got it for a harness for it ? Or Ebay ? Or Suzo Happ ? etc. etc.
Quoted from winslow:Is this the manual you are referring to? I don’t see a page 67…
It's a double page page, 6 on one side and 7 on the other. Not 67.
LTG : )
Quoted from winslow:Is this the correct harness?
Sorry no. I searched Google and it came up with the 12 and I got all excited.
Best search or contact Pyramid.
LTG : )
Quoted from winslow:Where can it be found in the manual that is on the CGC website?
I didn't get the link in on a previous post.
Scroll down to page 6, this is the pinout for the 9 pin connector. You are looking at the female side.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from PinballPam:Any advice for a fix
Drop the VUK, ( underside of playfield, 3 screws, get the metal out. Then figure out where it came from and if needed.
LTG : )
Quoted from PinballPam:Any advice for a fix
If yours is broke - https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-moat-popper/
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from PWhiz:What am I missing?
Nothing. Keep playing and enjoying your games.
Some pins do lose flipper power during long playing sessions. Fans help those. Not every pin needs them.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Turtlemaster:Am I right that I need to change now quite a big piece of the castle ?
Easy. remove the two towers, pull it up.
Quoted from Turtlemaster:And is there a difference between original MM and MMR in such a part ?
No, same castle front on both.
Quoted from Turtlemaster:My ball lock door of the castle got broken.
A piece of the castle broke off. On my original many years ago, same thing happened. I removed the two screws. Took the piece of plastic and glued it back to the castle. Then glued a thin piece of brass sheet metal on top and on the bottom of the repair area. Drilled two new holes through the brass. Bolted it back on. Good to go.
Lasted many years until I was given a new castle front from a person who had one he didn't need. Swapped it then, though the repair was still holding.
LTG : )
Quoted from Turtlemaster:What would this community become without LTG
Thank you.
It will always be in good hands. There has been and always will be lots of good help here. Not just me.
And the archives of Rec Games Pinball, and Pinside. Is another great resource.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from JimFNB:Does anyone know what this is?
Yes. Two screws go into it. It rests on the back of a troll head. The screws screw into the metal part on a stand up leaf blade switch.
Either an extra, or a troll is missing one. Just the screws holding the troll head to the leaf stack.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Yes. Two screws go into it. It rests on the back of a troll head. The screws screw into the metal part on a stand up leaf blade switch.
Either an extra, or a troll is missing one. Just the screws holding the troll head to the leaf stack.
LTG : )
A different color. You can see it in this picture.
LTG : )
trollback (resized).JPGQuoted from PinMonk:Switch needs adjustment, or broken switch wire, or blown 12v fuse (I think the switches run off 12v on MMr, not sure) on the power board. If it's the ONLY switch not registering, adjustment or broken wire are most likely.
Opto switch in there. If wires are intact, I'd try cleaning the optos next. Damp Q Tip works good.
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from tzakiel:If not, then what is the best course of action?
Remove the bolt. Get a tap that size. Retap the thing the bolt goes into.
Done.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:Any tips greatly appreciated,
Drill rivets and use small nuts and bolts to put on new switch bracket and flasher holders.
Green moat has a couple plugs and screws, comes out easy.
LTG : )
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:Any thoughts?
Duct tape works. Or go to an auto parts store. Get a fiberglass repair kit.
LTG : )
Quoted from Emkay79:Why not keep making them until no one wants one anymore?
I would imagine with unlimited numbers out there, eventually they'd be worth less and selling for less than the manufacturers are selling them for.
Every manufacturer of pinball machines cuts production at some point.
And some manufacturers want their customers games to hold value.
And you can't move onto the next one if you are stuck cranking out the last one.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:I assume that one is making CCr and the other is making Pulp Fiction.
I think they'd have CCR on both lines and at some point switch to PF.
I don't know for certain, just how I'd do it.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbeardsley:I would think the main reason for having two lines would be to be able to build 2 different titles at the same time.
Eventually yes. Right now getting CCR out seems top priority.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I would dedicate one line to PTC remake.
You sir have wisdom beyond your years.
LTG : )
Quoted from Master_of_Trolls:right troll bracket
Left or right. Same thing.
If the bottom with the collar broke, it can be brazed. If the part that holds the troll face switch bracket, that's harder.
LTG : )
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:Switch arm seems to sway quite a bit when the ball drops into the moat.
If the arm wiggles ( highly technical term ) the nubs on the body the arm snaps onto are probably worn.
Get a new switch, or new switch body and swap the old arm onto the new body.
LTG : )
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:I checked the switch
Maybe get the missing screw in there first.
Should be two.
LTG : )
Quoted from mizzou:Any suggestions?
Troll face leaf blade switch is too sensitive. Going up vibration thinks it's been hit and it drops.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Dwboca:Any ideas.
Power off. Reseat color chip. Then reseat HDMI cable to VGA converter to LCD, all joints.
LTG : )
Quoted from Dwboca:I know where everything but color chip is?
Quoted from Dwboca:My MMR display starts colorized but then everything is green colored. Any ideas. This is new.
Quoted from foxtj24:yes it is normal. You have to buy a $400 color chip
I'm sorry I missed some of the post. Don't mess with the cables.
In the CGC settings you can change the green to 7 other colors, not all at the same time.
If you want the whole shebang in color, you need the color chip. On the big board under the playfield is a long IC socket, you'd remove that one and stick the color one in the same spot. Marks on chip and board matching in the same spots.
You can get the color chip from https://www.planetarypinball.com/
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:You can get the color chip from https://www.planetarypinball.com/
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-MMR-HDC
LTG : )
Quoted from Dwboca:I did not realize the color chip was on main green board. That would explain why it was colorized and now green. I had to swap boards out.
If you still have the old board, swap the chip back onto the new board.
LTG : )
Quoted from jedi42:get the main part of the castle off?
Two screws, one on each tower cap. The whole castle front pulls up and out.
Did you check in Tests - Switch Edge ? If it works there balls are going over the beam. If not check optos for broken wires behind them.
LTG : )
Quoted from roscoepinball:just received
Both flippers are connected to driver board 1 under your playfield. I'd leave the connectors on the board. Remove the screws holding the driver board to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board and then plug back into the huge board. Gently push the row of nubs sticking up on the driver board to get it seated good.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Quoted from roscoepinball:Anything else I should take a look at
Driver boards are identical, try swapping a couple of them.
LTG : )
1 week later
Remove the balls. Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the driving board involved ? I believe there are two for your problems. See the manual, #1 and #2. No need to unplug the connectors. Remove the screws holding the driver board to the big board below it. Unplug the driver board. Then plug it back it. A gentle push on the row or ten nubs sticking up from the connector pins going into the big board.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from rmf-pinball:Should I add washers to raise the wireform ramp?
I'd make the leaf blade switch behind the troll head less sensitive.
Quoted from rmf-pinball:Solution: My RIGHT troll was not dropping or slowly dropping! Even in the test. Took it apart and noticed the mechanism was "sorta stuck" in the coil/coil sleeve. Removed it. Noticed the PIN holding the two parts together was slightly sticking out! A little light hammering got the pin back in, things smoothed out nice.
Common for that roll pin to work it's way out. Next time you order parts I'd get a new coil sleeve. The one in there is scored.
LTG : )
1 week later
3 weeks later
Quoted from gmanrulz46:Got these messages after putting in fans,but both flippers played fine,,
They will play fine. With or with out the EOS error.
Tests - Switch Edge - move the flipper bat back and forth. Do they register on the screen ? If not dig deeper. Turn game off. Look at the EOS - is it open ?, when you move the flipper bat up does it close ? Any broken wires ? Any EOS connector unplugged ?
LTG : )
4 weeks later
Quoted from billsfanmd:oing to help a friend who says his gate is not opening. First time working on an MMr Is there a test for gate opening and closing? Anything I should check first? Thx
There is a test - enable high power interlock switch.
Check wires to coil lugs. Did collar for gate come apart where it hooks onto plunger ? Fuse ?
And it's driver board. Leave connectors on. Remove the screws holding it to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board from huge board. Plug it back in, press the ten nubs along the edge where the pins plug into the huge board. Replace screws. All three driver boards are the same, you can swap them around. People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Quoted from MNPinner:Is the RGB upgrade worth all the effort?It seems like a 3 to 4 hour install
Come in and look at the one installed on my game.
That may help you decide if it's worth it to you or not.
LTG : )
Quoted from MNPinner:Is the RGB upgrade worth all the effort?It seems like a 3 to 4 hour install
I see in your collection you have AFMR and MBR. So I suspect compared to those your MMR looks kind of naked. So you might consider doing it.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from dpadam450:The ball slams it so hard and wasn't sure if it was made of plastic/metal or if it had any spring/dampening system to reduce the ball impact.
Metal and no.
LTG : )
Quoted from tzakiel:What’s the right way to make these buttons have a longer travel before engaging the sensor?
3 screws hold the flipper button opto board to the inside of the cabinet. I'd loosen them and put a shim, folded business card or something, between the opto board and cabinet and tighten the screws.
You may need to experiment with thickness of shim to get it where you like it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Devinsupertramp:Any tips would be extremely helpful.
Remove coil stop, slide coil off. Check coil sleeve like Only_Pinball suggested. Then check top of coil stop where the plunger hits, is it cupped or loose, then feel the end of the plunger, mushroomed or a sharp edge ? If so time to rebuild flippers.
LTG : )
Quoted from brainmegaphone:is there some sort of guide on my metal ramp area I'm missing to keep the ball on track?
No.
Raise ramp or lower your flipper strength.
LTG : )
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Where would I raise the ramp? At the slingshot area I assume?
Yes, up front where it fastens on. A couple washers under where it fastens on.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from TimBoch:Do you think CGC might replace it?
I don't think your game is under warranty anymore.
Quoted from TimBoch:Anyone else have this happen?
On my original MM.
Quoted from TimBoch:Were you able to fix it?
Yes. See picture. I glued a flat piece of brass across the area outlined in red. Wiggled it to get it into the cavities. Drilled holes for screws. Bolted the door back on.
Castle front is available. Easy to change. Remove the two screws holding the tower caps on and remove the tower caps. Then the whole castle front slides up and out.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Maybe contact them.
They don't have them.
Planetary Pinball Supply is the source for parts for the remakes - https://www.planetarypinball.com/ if not on the website contact them.
Or a want ad on Pinside.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Animal:Can anyone give me the sizes for the rubber just above the right and left outlanes?
https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/3056 There is a post on there which might help you.
LTG : )
Quoted from Animal:can you only get them though Chicago pinball?
Chicago Gaming doesn't sell parts. Planetary Pinball Supply is the source for parts for remakes.
Williams flipper parts are the same thing. Pinball Life has full flipper assemblies. If the Pinball Life ones have diodes on the coils, cut the diodes off.
LTG : )
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:I was hoping someone could help out.
Have you check it's fuse on it's driver board ? Driver board 1, pull fuse and check with a meter.
If that is good then leave the connectors on driver board 1, remove the screws holding it to the big board, unplug the driver board and then plug it back in, push the nubs above the ten pins that plug into the big board so it seats good. Then replace the screws.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:I must admit that I have a bit of learning to do about checking the fuse on the board.
Remove fuse from board to check. Youtube has plenty of short videos to check a fuse with a meter.
Quoted from SirTilt-A-Lot:Is board 1 on the front or backside of the ball trough?
One of three mounted to the huge board under the playfield. Follow the wires from ball trough coil.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from vikeking27:Any suggestions on a spring to use
Flipper return spring or drop target spring. Shorten if necessary.
LTG : )
Quoted from vikeking27:Anyone know what was holding this on?
Looks like tack welds.
Your gate is okay, it's the frame that the gate goes up and down in that came apart.
LTG : )
DSC00892 (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from GCS2000:If only those kits existed (and for their MSRP).
The kit for RGB lighting did not include for pop bumpers.
LTG : )
Quoted from GCS2000:so the LE has RGB pop bumpers but the RE does not?
The Royal has RGB pop bumper lights. All others have regular lights. The upgrade RGB kit does not include RGB lighting for pop bumpers. Though others have figured it out and there are posts in this thread on how to do it.
LTG : )
Quoted from tktlwyr:was it modified at some point?
Quoted from tktlwyr:I’m the 3rd owner.
Ding ding ding. We have a winner. 1st or 2nd owner did the RGB addition to your pop bumpers.
LTG : )
Quoted from PWhiz:I'm open to entertain any ideas of what I might try that I haven't already though.
Watch it kick the ball. Going up the wireform smoothly ? Or hitting it a little way in ? Might have to bend the wireform down a bit so the ball goes through it rather than at it.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Animal:Can anyone point me to the proper full flipper assemblies I can buy to replace when needed?
I don't know why you'd do this. You'd still have to line up the flipper bat and tighten the pawl.
If you'd consider rebuilding the flippers if ever needed, all you need is a new coil sleeve, new coil stop, and new plunger assembly.
https://www.pinballlife.com/2-316-coil-sleeve.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-coil-stop-a-12390.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-right-flipper-plunger-and-crank-assembly.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-left-flipper-plunger-and-crank-assembly.html
Or get the rebuild kit - https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-rebuild-kit-williamsbally-081993-101998-spooky-2014-present-jjp-2012-present.html
LTG : )
Quoted from GCS2000:instructions
Remove two screws holding tower tops on. Slide castle front up and out. Easy to figure the other piece.
LTG : )
Quoted from WillM:nor am I clear on the intended mfg's use
The picture is of the turret, upside down. Same as what is already in the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from CurtisC:I'm thinking of running those outputs to my own leds to make an interactive topper.
Please be careful of anything you do. I'm tired of people modding their games and blowing them up and having to open a support ticket.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from GCS2000:Where should I look next?
High power interlock switch wired right ? With coin door open pull it out, do they work then ?
Metal box over the on/off switch with plastic cover, pull and check fuses in there with a meter.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Concept works so I need to design a better flame than a stretched out cotton ball.
Youtube has lots of epoxy resin stuff, flames, matches, candles, battles. Maybe get some flame ideas there ?
LTG : )
Quoted from WillM:obvious
Lift playfield straight up, then lift up and out.
Quoted from WillM:I'm swapping out my castle with a painted version.
You don't need to remove the playfield to do that. Lift playfield up a little and pull forward until in locks, resting on the front of the cabinet. Two screws hold on turrets, remove them. Slide castle front up and out. The right side remove more screws and stuff to get it out.
LTG : )
Quoted from Gumby510:Is there anyway to get that number back from another menu option or something?
No.
LTG : )
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