(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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There are 4915 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 99.
#1451 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

What's the difference between the mm and mmr ramo protectors?

As per Cliffy, MMR came factory with ramp protectors while MM did not.

#1452 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

As per Cliffy, MMR came with ramp protectors while MM did not.

Really? Every original ive played has them and my original does? U sure cliffy just didnt upgrade the factory design as he does on alot of pins?

#1453 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Really? Every original ive played has them and my original does? U sure cliffy just didnt upgrade the factory design as he does on alot of pins?

It's what he told me when I contacted him about the MM kit for the MMR.

The MMR set differs from the set on my site (oem) in that I substitute 2 switch slots for the ramp drops in place of ramp protectors - since MMR comes new with those.

#1454 2 years ago

Looks like the original had them also but he makes better ones than the factory provided......

#1455 2 years ago

What are people doing for decal protection around the flipper buttons?

#1456 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

What are people doing for decal protection around the flipper buttons?

Nothing...in home use it's not a worry. If you're anal throw some of that cling Mylar around the buttons. It'll come off easy later.

#1457 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Nothing...in home use it's not a worry. If you're anal throw some of that cling Mylar around the buttons. It'll come off easy later.

Not completely true.... ive seen wear on some mm/mmr decaled cabs in home use ....

#1458 2 years ago

I have had my MMR for about two months and it was playing perfectly until I powered up today. The lights/sounds/switches are all still working perfectly but all but three of the solenoids are not working. The only ones that are working are the drawbridge and left/right gates. No flippers, bumpers, ball eject.
I'm hoping someone could let me know some trouble shooting tips to get the game back into working order.
Thanks in advance.

#1459 2 years ago

Fuses all look good on the solenoid boards. Lights, Flashers, Sounds, Switches are all working along w/ the drawbridge and left/right gates. Not sure if I'm missing something. Perhaps a wire or cable?

#1460 2 years ago

Did you test the fuses pulled from the boards with a meter? Looking at fuses is like dancing about architecture.

Marc

#1461 2 years ago

No solenoids are firing on any of the three boards. Would one fuse blown effect all three or could it be something else?

#1462 2 years ago

Also, I'm not getting power to anything other than the drawbridge and the two gates. No Flippers, Castle, Castle Gate, Pop Bumpers. Nothing.

#1463 2 years ago

Not working in test mode either

#1464 2 years ago

All your high voltage solenoids are out. Im not familiar with mmr or id be glad to help.

#1465 2 years ago

If all of your high current solenoids are out, I would suspect a blown fuse in the power supply in the front of the cabinet. I think there are LEDs for each fuse, but I'm not in front of my MMR for a while. I would look at the 50v fuse inside the power supply under the clear acrylic case. Make sure you unplug the game from the wall before touching that area.

Marc

#1466 2 years ago

Thanks. Just checked the board. With the game on are two leds that should normally be on. The 12VUR is on. The 50 V (which should also be on) is not.

Would this almost definitely make the 50v fuse (6.3a 250v slow blow) the culprit?

#1467 2 years ago

Yes. That's your issue. Replace that fuse and enjoy your game.

#1468 2 years ago

Thanks again for your help. I'll reach back out if I have any issues.

#1469 2 years ago

Does anybody know of a distributor for MMR in the NW (WA, OR, ID, MT)?

#1470 2 years ago
Quoted from damionrowe:

Thanks again for your help. I'll reach back out if I have any issues.

Post for success as well!

#1471 2 years ago

Still trying to find the fuse replacement

#1472 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Does anybody know of a distributor for MMR in the NW (WA, OR, ID, MT)?

Not in NW, but i got mine from GameRoomGuys, my buddy bought his TWD from them as well. Can't say enough good things about them, great to work with. They will ship a game anywhere.

#1473 2 years ago

Did the trick. Thanks for all your help.

#1474 2 years ago

So 8k going rate for standard or can a guy get one cheaper ?

#1475 2 years ago
Quoted from damionrowe:

Did the trick. Thanks for all your help.

Awesome!

#1476 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So 8k going rate for standard or can a guy get one cheaper ?

Pretty much...

#1477 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So 8k going rate for standard or can a guy get one cheaper ?

Try automated in CT, the will go a few hundred lower if you push them.

#1478 2 years ago

Ok thanks. Would love to have one

#1479 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Not in NW, but i got mine from GameRoomGuys, my buddy bought his TWD from them as well. Can't say enough good things about them, great to work with. They will ship a game anywhere.

Ok, thanks for the recommendation.

#1480 2 years ago

Curious to know how you game plays when you aim for the peasant and damsel ramps.

For me, the ball has to roll almost to the very end of the flippers, and then you get a smooth shot up ramp.

Just interested in hearing how yours plays

#1481 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know how you game plays when you aim for the peasant and damsel ramps.
For me, the ball has to roll almost to the very end of the flippers, and then you get a smooth shot up ramp.
Just interested in hearing how yours plays

Sounds like you need to adjust your flippers!

1/4 flipper- Castle/Castle
1/2 flipper-Merlin/lock
3/4 flipper- Ramp/Ramp
7/8 flipper- orbit/orbit
Full- Merlin targets/catapult

New games need to be tuned out of the box to play right. Adjust switches, adjust knockouts, adjust flippers, tighten ramps, posts, plastics, brackets, etc.... play a few games and then do it again! Once everything feels real good and you stop bricking shots your machine is dialed in.

#1482 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So 8k going rate for standard or can a guy get one cheaper ?

I have been thinking the same. Seems like there should be some discounts by now. Does PPS have a no discount rule on the dealers?

#1483 2 years ago

Stupid question(s) for the week. I purchased the merlin hole protector from pinbits. It says it is compatible with the mantis hole protector. I've read about issues installing the mantis so I was going to hold off on doing that. Is there any requirement that the mantis be installed first or can you install it at a later time? Second question, I was surprised to see a piece of mylar the same shape as the protector. Is that typical for these types of protectors? I assume installation is simply remove the one post, put down the mylar, put the protector on top of the mylar positioned such that the post screw goes through the hole in the protector, replace the post and viola. Am I missing a step? Finally, I got the mylar protection pack at the same time. Lots of pieces of mylar in it. What are the top recommended spots to put it down?
Thanks

#1484 2 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Sounds like you need to adjust your flippers!
1/4 flipper- Castle/Castle
1/2 flipper-Merlin/lock
3/4 flipper- Ramp/Ramp
7/8 flipper- orbit/orbit
Full- Merlin targets/catapult
New games need to be tuned out of the box to play right. Adjust switches, adjust knockouts, adjust flippers, tighten ramps, posts, plastics, brackets, etc.... play a few games and then do it again! Once everything feels real good and you stop bricking shots your machine is dialed in.

What's the best way to ensure that flippers are aligned?

#1485 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

What's the best way to ensure that flippers are aligned?

Toothpick between the flipper bat and flipper rubber into the alignment hole on the playfield. You can also run parallel with the inline guide, just remember (parallel) use a strait edge if going this route. That will get you almost home! From that point you can choose to make really small adjustments until you are satisfied. Good luck!

#1486 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

What's the best way to ensure that flippers are aligned?

Rock beat me by 2 seconds! lol

Put a straight edge along the lane guide and match the flipper to it.
This way the ball rolls down the lane and has a smooth transition on to the flipper.

This is a good starting point for further adjustments if needed.

#1487 2 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

Toothpick between the flipper bat and flipper rubber into the alignment hole on the playfield. You can also run parallel with the inline guide, just remember (parallel) use a strait edge if going this route. That will get you almost home! From that point you can choose to make really small adjustments until you are satisfied. Good luck!

So I wedge a toothpick under the flipper bat rubber (I'm assuming the bottom of the flipper) and then place the other point of the toothpick in the alignment hole?

Then tight the bolt that holds the flipper in place, and see how that works?

For the straight edge route, can I just use a short ruler or level?

#1488 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So I wedge a toothpick under the flipper bat rubber (I'm assuming the bottom of the flipper) and then place the other point of the toothpick in the alignment hole?
Then tight the bolt that holds the flipper in place, and see how that works?
For the straight edge route, can I just use a short ruler or level?

yes to both

I use a small drill bit.

the original had a goody bag with a wire for this and a flipper height tool in the kit

#1489 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

yes to both but not under the rubber
I use a small drill bit in the hole and just set the flipper with rubber on it on to the bit.
the original goody bag has a wire for this and a flipper height tool in the kit

If you use the small ruler adjustment style, you dont need the toothpick or drill bit in the hole

#1490 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So I wedge a toothpick under the flipper bat rubber (I'm assuming the bottom of the flipper) and then place the other point of the toothpick in the alignment hole?
Then tight the bolt that holds the flipper in place, and see how that works?
For the straight edge route, can I just use a short ruler or level?

The easiest way is to tighten the flipper enough so you can adjust by hand without losing the position. Run a ruler or anything straight down the inlane and make the flipper parallel with the inlane.

The proper way is the toothpick between flipper and rubber down into the hole. This was done so it would hole everything in place while you lifted the PF to tighten.

#1491 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

the original goody bag has a wire for this and a flipper height tool in the kit

Really? I'll have to look, i don't recall seeing that.

#1492 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

yes to both but not under the rubber
I use a small drill bit in the hole and just set the flipper with rubber on it on to the bit.
the original goody bag has a wire for this and a flipper height tool in the kit

I don't recall getting a goody bag Just the manual

So I could put a toothpick in the hole, rest the flipper on the toothpick, and then tight it up?

I had adjusted the flipper once before by eyeing it, and I recall it was a pain in the ass trying to tighten it back up and keep it in place.

Do I push down on the flipper so that it does not raise off the playfield while tightening? And to confirm, it's just the one bolt that it parallel to the playfield, and is facing downward towards the front of the machine?

Thanks

#1493 2 years ago

I may have to take a picture.... the toothpick goes between the flipper rubber and the flipper batt. So the toothpick is vertical wedged between the batt and the rubber pointing straight down into the hole in your playfield. It is really as easy as it sounds.

Someone please post a pic of this

#1494 2 years ago
Quoted from Rock914:

I may have to take a picture.... the toothpick goes between the flipper rubber and the flipper batt. So the toothpick is vertical wedged between the batt and the rubber pointing straight down into the hole in your playfield. It is really as easy as it sounds.
Someone please post a pic of this

Yes, please post a pic

And can comment on the other question about how to loosen and tighten it properly.

Thanks

#1495 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Yes, please post a pic

I didn't have a tooth pick so I used a bamboo skewer, you get the idea.

Quoted from Damien:

how to loosen and tighten it properly

I like to loosen the nut on the pawl just slightly so the flipper bat turns real hard. Then position the flipper bat where I want it. Then tighten the bolt.

If you loosen the nut a lot, then you get to mess with up and down adjustment and back and forth flipper bat adjustment. That is a learning experience.

LTG : )

DSC00210 (resized).JPG

#1496 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I didn't have a tooth pick so I used a bamboo skewer, you get the idea.

I like to loosen the nut on the pawl just slightly so the flipper bat turns real hard. Then position the flipper bat where I want it. Then tighten the bolt.
If you loosen the nut a lot, then you get to mess with up and down adjustment and back and forth flipper bat adjustment. That is a learning experience.
LTG : )

Thanks so much for the pic LTG!

Any chance you could take a photo so I can see what the nut on the panel is? And if I'm only loosening that a bit, when am I tightening another bolt after?

Thanks again

#1497 2 years ago

I circled in red what you loosen and tighten.

I'm sorry for the confusion using bolt when I should have typed nut.

LTG : )

DSC00211 (resized).JPG

#1498 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

what the nut on the panel

I hope you realize this is below the playfield. The flipper shaft goes through the big hole in the pawl, below my red circle.

LTG : )

#1499 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I circled in red what you loosen and tighten.
I'm sorry for the confusion using bolt when I should have typed nut.
LTG : )

So just loosen that, adjust flipper, and tighten? Should it be very tight, or just some resistance?

Also, when I loosen this nut, will the flipper also rise up from the playfield?

After doing the alignment, should I push down on the flipper while tightening?

Thanks again

#1500 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So just loosen that, adjust flipper, and tighten?

Yes, but save yourself more work. Only loosen a tiny bit so the flipper bat moves if you push/pull it hard. If you loosen it too much and the flipper bat flops around, then you need to adjust the back and forth there you want it, and the up and down movement. If you screw it up, use the blue plastic spacer from the goodie bag, set it between the flipper bat and playfield, that will give you the right spacing so there is a tiny bit of up and down play so the pawl doesn't bind on the nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in, below the playfield.

Quoted from Damien:

Also, when I loosen this nut, will the flipper also rise up from the playfield?

If you loosen too much, gravity is down, not up.

Quoted from Damien:

After doing the alignment, should I push down on the flipper while tightening?

No.

LTG : )

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