(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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There are 4713 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 95.
#1401 2 years ago

Loved getting a late production unit and serial. Inserts looks great! And appears to be past the small run that needed slingshot adjustments.

In early playing the main adjustment needed on this MMR is that the moat VUK is working maybe 40% of the time. When it doesn't work the machine does a ball search which kicks it out. Let me know if you have any advice on what to adjust/tweak (I've made a few notes from a search). Only other minor issue is a few scratches on one leg and I need to adjust one of the trolls rear metal flaps which prevent stuck balls.

It's the honeymoon phase right now, but the pin is awesome. I have no real memories of playing an MM before so it is new to me in every way. I'm loving the whole package, which this game is rated so highly for: theme, toys, play, sounds, soundtrack (entertaining and humorous), and artwork). It's also been easy to pick up quickly and follow playfield and DMD prompts.

#1402 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I think it can but they need to upscale the graphics again.

Nah, it's just an LCD display with an input. Just as you can watch TV on a 20 inch screen or a 60 inch screen, they should be able to make a "Jumbo Screen Kit" for MMr.

#1403 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Nah, it's just an LCD display with an input. Just as you can watch TV on a 20 inch screen or a 60 inch screen, they should be able to make a "Jumbo Screen Kit" for MMr.

I hope they do because I wan't the MMr display to look like the AFMr display. A part of me was holding back on the LE because I wanted the games to be alike in the display dept.

#1404 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

In early playing the main adjustment needed on this MMR is that the moat VUK is working maybe 40% of the time. When it doesn't work the machine does a ball search which kicks it out.

If ball search kicks it out, coil is fine. I'd concentrate on the opto switch in there. Clean them, follow the wires, the optos should plug into a board nearby, reseat that a couple time.

LTG : )

#1405 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I wonder if Chicago Gaming would give the MMr owners a rebate if we buy one. Kind of like a customer appreciation rebate.

+1.. that would be very cool !! A remake loyalty program..I'm in!

#1406 2 years ago

nice mod

#1407 2 years ago

Is that Williams speaker panel lettering silver or gold? It's hard to tell from the picture and both options are out there. What was the original MM color of "Williams"? Thanks!

#1408 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Is that Williams speaker panel lettering silver or gold? It's hard to tell from the picture and both options are out there. What was the original MM color of "Williams"? Thanks!

Silver. Plastic chrome lettering. Not a decal.

#1409 2 years ago

at the picture is a decal in chrome
but this one looks better

its a lasered piece a friend did for me

IMG_7172 (resized).jpg

IMG_7173 (resized).jpg

#1410 2 years ago

How do I add headphones to the MMr?

#1411 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If ball search kicks it out, coil is fine. I'd concentrate on the opto switch in there. Clean them, follow the wires, the optos should plug into a board nearby, reseat that a couple time.
LTG : )

Thx for the help. Fiddled around that area and the VUK and it appears to be working consistently now . I need to play more games to confirm.

If I have that adjustment licked, the game is playing excellent in all ways now, so smooth and great, and basically right from out of the box. As for game play, even though I'm in honeymoon phase, I still have to say wow; such an awesome game.

Only a couple minor tweaks were needed out of the box, which is the complete opposite of what one would think reading the other NIB and MMR threads on Pinside. I've had great NIB experiences, and this one has been super smooth. I shudder to think I almost missed the NIB MMR experience .

'
'

For those interested I started another thread asking what slope/incline/pitch people are setting their MM and MMR at. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mm-mmr-playfield-slope-incline-pitch#post-3657449

#1412 2 years ago

Anyone know where to get these?

#1413 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Anyone know where to get these?

PM sent

#1414 2 years ago

I just got my color chip in the mail from Planetary. No instructions included!

Seems simple, but wanted to check in first. I'm guessing that you turn the machine off, put in the SD card first, and update to 2.0.1?

Do I start the machine up first, or put the color chip in at the same time?

Does the chip go in a certain way, or can it be reversed?

And lastly, two of the pins were bent? Should I just straighten them up?

Thanks

#1415 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I just got my color chip in the mail from Planetary. No instructions included!
Seems simple, but wanted to check in first. I'm guessing that you turn the machine off, put in the SD card first, and update to 2.0.1?
Do I start the machine up first, or put the color chip in at the same time?
Does the chip go in a certain way, or can it be reversed?
And lastly, two of the pins were bent? Should I just straighten them up?
Thanks

#1416 2 years ago

Well, the moat optos quickly started acting up again and to the point that the moat vuk stopped working completely until the ball search feature was triggered. The game became difficult to play obviously. A friend came over who is better at these things and fixed it! The moat VUK now works 100% of the time. The fix.... not entirely sure which it was, but he adjusted the vuk to have the metal bracket holding the ball be a little closer to the optos and he reseated all the opto cables multiple times. Thanks much for the help LTG in describing what to look at and try.

With friends over yesterday and lots of plays, it became evident the game is playing perfect now... and it's so smooth . MMR is the smoothest game I have. Really fun to see very fast shots get handled so well and beautifully. Clean fast ramp shots result in very fast ramp action and returns. And it looks awesome on the twisting ramps. Very few airballs, etc. One person called it velvety. A few commented on how it was almost like there was a magnet under the playfield holding the ball down as it was played.

The NIB experiences I've been around have been great. No bad or horror stories here, and even at that, so far my MMR has been the best, needing just a few minor adjustments out of the box. Great stuff.

Awesome pin.

#1417 2 years ago

Has anyone installed headphones on MMr yet?

#1418 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

ยป YouTube video

Thanks dude!

Just installed it, and it looks fantastic! Did nothing for my score though

It seem I get one good score 70-100mil, and then for the next few days I'm lucky to hit 50mil!

#1419 2 years ago

Ive started to have an issue with Merlin's VUK. Merlin's VUK, doesnt work after game is at rest for a few hours or more.

Over the past week or so (have had the pin for 1yr, NIB), when I start playing MMr, when the ball goes into the Merlin hole, it is registered by an audible or Merlin's magic, but the VUK doesnt kick the ball up. Then the pin goes into search mode, then kicks the ball. For all the next times the ball goes into Merlin's hole, it gets kicked out no problem for the rest of the time I play 2,3, 10 games.

This only seems to happen when the machine get turned on or has been left on but has not been played for a number of hours. Sight inspection under play field show no obvious issue.

Any idea why/how this can happen?

#1420 2 years ago

if

switch is ok (you hear the sound)
VUK will NOT work
but at the search it will work

thats sounds like a software bug for me

#1421 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Ive started to have an issue with Merlin's VUK. Merlin's VUK, doesnt work after game is at rest for a few hours or more.
Over the past week or so (have had the pin for 1yr, NIB), when I start playing MMr, when the ball goes into the Merlin hole, it is registered by an audible or Merlin's magic, but the VUK doesnt kick the ball up. Then the pin goes into search mode, then kicks the ball. For all the next times the ball goes into Merlin's hole, it gets kicked out no problem for the rest of the time I play 2,3, 10 games.
This only seems to happen when the machine get turned on or has been left on but has not been played for a number of hours. Sight inspection under play field show no obvious issue.
Any idea why/how this can happen?

On advice for LTG, I solved my merlin non-kickout issues by put a single #8 washer under the solenoid bracket for the left side screw. Left meaning looking at it from underneath the playfield. Not sure why this works but it does. The mechanism to detect the ball in the hole is separate from the kickout, that mechanism is the silver thin bar. It's also possible that the solenoid (a black cylinder comes up and down to kickout) cylinder is stuck in an up position and won't kickout. I had this problem after installing the mantis merlin hole protector, it interferes with that cylinder if you are not careful. So play the game with the glass off and see if that cylinder is stuck up first before the ball search clears it.

#1422 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

On advice for LTG, I solved my merlin non-kickout issues by put a single #8 washer under the solenoid bracket for the left side screw. Left meaning looking at it from underneath the playfield. Not sure why this works but it does. The mechanism to detect the ball in the hole is separate from the kickout, that mechanism is the silver thin bar. It's also possible that the solenoid (a black cylinder comes up and down to kickout) cylinder is stuck in an up position and won't kickout. I had this problem after installing the mantis merlin hole protector, it interferes with that cylinder if you are not careful. So play the game with the glass off and see if that cylinder is stuck up first before the ball search clears it.

Thanks for the tip! Tried it and it didnt work...will try a thicker washer. Anybody else?

#1423 2 years ago

Was the black cylinder plunger stuck in the up position?

#1424 2 years ago

no, its not stuck in up position and i believe the washer trick is to push the ball all the way out of the hole when the VUK is still working. My problem is after the game has not been used for a while the first time the ball goes in it is not kicked out. After that it seems to work fine...

#1425 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

no, its not stuck in up position and i believe the washer trick is to push the ball all the way out of the hole when the VUK is still working. My problem is after the game has not been used for a while the first time the ball goes in it is not kicked out. After that it seems to work fine...

Have you done a switch test right after turning it on?

#1426 2 years ago

I followed LTG's advise for a similiar problem followed the cable to the board and reseated the plug. I did a quick rub of rubbing alcohol on the pins and now its working every time. Thanks for the help....

#1427 2 years ago

damn!!!! its happening again.

Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:

Have you done a switch test right after turning it on?

Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

#1428 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

damn!!!! its happening again.

Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

Bad VUK.

#1429 2 years ago

Please PM me if anyone has just the castle protector piece from the mantis set they'd be willing to sell me?

Thanks!

#1430 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

damn!!!! its happening again.

Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

Try PMing LTG.

#1431 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

If it's the optos acting up, please follow the wires from them to a board nearby they plug onto. Reseat the connector a couple times.

LTG : )

#1432 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??

Here's my experience with weak coils. May not be your issue but give it a try. My game would have problems ejecting from the moat during play, but on a ball search would eject.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed?tu=stangbat#post-3294147

#1433 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If it's the optos acting up, please follow the wires from them to a board nearby they plug onto. Reseat the connector a couple times.
LTG : )

Are there optos to Merlins hole, I took a look, but coulnt see any?

#1434 2 years ago

As I understand it that's how it triggers.

EDIT: Corrected below.

#1435 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

Gotta be, as I understand it that's how it triggers.

There's a silver piece of metal that acts as a ball detector the weight of the ball switches it, there's not an optos in the Merlin Hole.

#1436 2 years ago

Well, it's nice to learn something new. Different from the moat hole. Thx for the correction.

#1437 2 years ago
Quoted from Animal:

Are there optos to Merlins hole,

Mechanical switch.

LTG : )

#1438 2 years ago

thank you LTG for the help!

I think I finally have it fixed...I checked wiring back to the board for the switch, but not the VUK, I seated and reseated and it has worked twice now after being dormant for a few hours...should have done that when I checked the switch, hate these grey moments...happening more and more often...duh

#1439 2 years ago

Curious to know what your strategy is when playing?

Lately, I've been starting out by trying to hit the ramps and orbits. Not sure if I'm being strategic, but I like to get each Madness lit individually, so I can get a few double ball multi-balls. When I get multi-ball, I go for the castle.

I've been to Royal Madness twice, and finished it once. But aside from that, where do I rack up the points? Should I go for more Damsels, Jousts, etc...?

Do you get more than one multi-ball on item? For instance, after getting the multi-ball after saving the first damsel, do you get another multi-ball after saving 2, 3, etc...?

My highest score so far came from a game where I got to Royal Madness, finished it, and the points just seemed to be pouring in.

But at that point, I couldn't figure out what to shoot at.

Interested in hearing your strategy.

Cheers

#1440 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know what your strategy is when playing?
Lately, I've been starting out by trying to hit the ramps and orbits. Not sure if I'm being strategic, but I like to get each Madness lit individually, so I can get a few double ball multi-balls. When I get multi-ball, I go for the castle.
I've been to Royal Madness twice, and finished it once. But aside from that, where do I rack up the points? Should I go for more Damsels, Jousts, etc...?
Do you get more than one multi-ball on item? For instance, after getting the multi-ball after saving the first damsel, do you get another multi-ball after saving 2, 3, etc...?
My highest score so far came from a game where I got to Royal Madness, finished it, and the points just seemed to be pouring in.
But at that point, I couldn't figure out what to shoot at.
Interested in hearing your strategy.
Cheers

The best thing you can do is try to avoid starting multiball madness until you light all the madness lights up. You get more balls for the multiball, the base jackpot is worth more, and everything is a super JP or better. Focus on trolls during the multiball first until you light the blue troll light. Then pepper the castle while still hitting shots. Immediately start Royal Madness after that. Go for the catapult while the ballsaver is on. The lock shot will award the leftmost shot still lit (catapult) during Royal Madness. Go for that over the catapult if still lit. Pick up a Castle multiball along the way and get the super for your 2nd/3rd extra ball (first/second from beating Royal Madness and destroying your third castle) and work on lighting your second multiball madness. Pepper the castle during all multiballs. It's the toughest requirement for BFTK (unless you miss troll madness).

#1441 2 years ago

I enjoy my MMr and the only recurring issue I have is with the Castle Assembly "Hinge-Flap" (P/N 31-2826-3B).

In multiball (usually) a ball will get stuck behind the flap and sit there, and the only way to get it out is to take the glass off...really annoying.

Either the flap mech is binding, or the 6.5 deg slope isn't enough to allow the flap to let the ball drop back into the moat. Haven't had time to take the assembly apart to try to diagnose the cause...or gotten out my WD40

Robert

#1442 2 years ago

So- I apologize if this has probably been done to death- but what are some of the "required" upgrades? Playfield protectors and such?

Also- is there any site selling something that covers up the "missing" Williams logo on the backglass area yet?

Thanks!

#1443 2 years ago
Quoted from RedHotHero:

So- I apologize if this has probably been done to death- but what are some of the "required" upgrades? Playfield protectors and such?
Also- is there any site selling something that covers up the "missing" Williams logo on the backglass area yet?
Thanks!

I don't know what is "required" but here's a list of the main protectors.

Mantis MM protector 4 piece set

Cliffy MMR protectors 6 piece set

Pinbits MMR plastics protectors 10 piece set and Merlin hole protector

Generic mylar at marco, etc.

Replacement trolls mylar at marco, etc.

#1444 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

I don't know what is "required" but here's a list of the main protectors.
Mantis MM protector 4 piece set
Cliffy MMR protectors 6 piece set
Pinbits MMR plastics protectors 10 piece set
Trolls mylar marco, ebay, etc.
Generic mylar at marco, etc.

Was looking at the Cliffys, and it looked a little daunting to do the catapult and moat jump & ramp protectors.

Can anyone comment on this, as I'm new to the hobby.

Also, are there any videos showing the install?

Cheers

#1445 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Was looking at the Cliffys, and it looked a little daunting to do the catapult and moat jump & ramp protectors.
Can anyone comment on this, as I'm new to the hobby.
Also, are there any videos showing the install?
Cheers

The moat is a pain to install but other than that Cliffy's were well worth the investment.

#1446 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

I don't know what is "required" but here's a list of the main protectors.
Mantis MM protector 4 piece set
Cliffy MMR protectors 6 piece set
Pinbits MMR plastics protectors 10 piece set
Trolls mylar marco, ebay, etc.
Generic mylar at marco, etc.

Trolls mylar is factory installed on my MMR Standard. "6" Cliffys? Catapault, Shooter ball eject, drawbridge edge, moat jump are all the cliffy's needed on MMR. The other 2 are ramp protectors and are not required on MMR just MM. Pinbits makes a Merlin hole (topside) protector that should be on that list as well.

#1447 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Was looking at the Cliffys, and it looked a little daunting to do the catapult and moat jump & ramp protectors.
Can anyone comment on this, as I'm new to the hobby.
Also, are there any videos showing the install?
Cheers

The mantis stuff (other than the castle protector), require drilling the underside of the playfield. Make sure to use a bit smaller in diameter than the screw and drill to the screw depth before installing the screws or you'll crack the wood around the screw hole. The Pinbits plastic protector install requires ALOT of playfield disassembly so keep track of where the screws and nuts and parts go back. You can do all of the disassembly with 2 different size sockets and a socket wrench. The Pinbits plastics set has 10 pieces but one does not have a playfield plastic to protect, it's the one in front of the castle. That's normal. The hardest plastic protector to install is the red U-shaped plastic near the pop bumpers, use an index finger from each hand under the damsel ramp to get the nuts in position and the plastic back in. One hand will not fit underneath the damsel ramp. Just loosen and move the top shield on that ramp out of the way and a socket wrench will fit down into the ramp diverter slot to get the forward nut in and out. Some of the plastics require removing the red cone shaped reflectors so just put a socket over it to keep it still and loosen it with another socket and wrench from underneath. Good Luck!

#1448 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Trolls mylar is factory installed on my MMR Standard. "6" Cliffys? Catapault, Shooter ball eject, drawbridge edge, moat jump are all the cliffy's needed on MMR. The other 2 are ramp protectors and are not required on MMR just MM.

Thx KMP! Updated that post.

The MMR set differs from the MM set on Cliff's site in that he substitutes 2 switch slots for the ramp drops in place of ramp protectors - since MMR comes new with those.

#1449 2 years ago

So I just got the e-mail from PPS. MMr owners get to reserve their number for AFMr and get priority in production. Although I was expecting a bit of a rebate on the AFMr, the prices came in better than expected.

#1450 2 years ago

What's the difference between the mm and mmr ramo protectors?

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