(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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There are 4713 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 95.
#1101 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Seriously?!?!
For this kind of money, you would think they would be sending someone over in a tuxedo to fix it.
I'll have to see what the store I bought it from ensures.

This must be your first Pinball machine.

#1102 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

This must be your first Pinball machine.

Hahaha, yup!

Man, I just want this thing to work. I love the game!

Any suggestions on the best way to approach this? See if I can get the part replacement from CGC, and get a local tech to put it in?

#1103 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Hahaha, yup!
Man, I just want this thing to work. I love the game!
Any suggestions on the best way to approach this? See if I can get the part replacement from CGC, and get a local tech to put it in?

Pinball machines are different from typical consumer products. Buyers are assumed to be operators, knowledgeable in pinball repair or at least handy and willing to learn. All pinball machines will need repair eventually, so I suggest diving in.

#1104 2 years ago

We are here and happy to help you learn to maintain your MMR. All pinball need some level of maintenance and everyone here started from nowhere and learned. This is the best part of this community and hobby: the free sharing of helpful information.

Marc

#1105 2 years ago

Blurry pics but here is a new topper I made for my mmr with ebay armor, chainmail, plastic skull and LEDs. I have a flame LED light mounted on the back of the cabinet head. The whole thing is constructed on a 2 x 6 painted black and it just sits up there without any hardware as its on the heavy side and the armor hugs the machine.

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#1106 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

What do you guys think of Mike Chestnut's gold MMr trimming?

I like it. Game is Imeh's

how can you remove the original side rails?

i want to use chrome rails, but i don't want to damage the cabinet decals?
whats the best trick?

#1107 2 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

how can you remove the original side rails?
i want to use chrome rails, but i don't want to damage the cabinet decals?
whats the best trick?

To be perfectly honest, I was into the chrome and the gold armor but I found them to be to sharp to the touch and they get finger prints all over them very easily. I now am into Powder coating. I love the feel of powdercoated armor and lock down bar over stainless steel especially over the chrome. But if you insist on removing the side rails, its one nut near the front on the inside of the cab and you will need a very sharp spatula to help separate the 2 way tape that is applied. Slide the spatula from underneath and slowly push up to cut the tape. Keep the spatula flat at all times and it should not damage the art. Sterns are easier, just 3 or 4 screws holding the side rails.

#1108 2 years ago

I used a couple methods. I used a small putty knife as SuperPinball mentioned. I also used a length of safety wire and pulled it down under the rails from the top to bottom to cut the adhesive. Between both methods I was able to remove the rails. Don't go from the bottom up with the wire as you can catch the grain of the veneer and splinter it.

#1109 2 years ago

So the machine is back up and working, but there's a hilarious story that goes along with it!

A tech from the store came by (btw very impressed with their timely service) and he started diagnosing the problem. He tried everything I had. Realigning, checking connection, loose soldering, etc.

He was scratching his head. He said he was baffled. Then by chance he just happened to have his hand above the sensor and noticed it changed from "open" to "closed".

He waved his hand back and force over it in the air and said, "this is some voodoo s#!+".

He looked up, turned to me and said, can you turn off the light.

And then it was! The stupid light was interfering with the sensor. It was not making it think it was "open" and balls were not registering. My fingers would usually work because I'd cover the light as I tried.

The two of us laughed hysterically when we realized this.

Anyhow, super nice guy and all is working now!

#1110 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So the machine is back up and working, but there's a hilarious story that goes along with it!
A tech from the store came by (btw very impressed with their timely service) and he started diagnosing the problem. He tried everything I had. Realigning, checking connection, loose soldering, etc.
He was scratching his head. He said he was baffled. Then by chance he just happened to have his hand above the sensor and noticed it changed from "open" to "closed".
He waved his hand back and force over it in the air and said, "this is some voodoo s#!+".
He looked up, turned to me and said, can you turn off the light.
And then it was! The stupid light was interfering with the sensor. It was not making it think it was "open" and balls were not registering. My fingers would usually work because I'd cover the light as I tried.
The two of us laughed hysterically when we realized this.
Anyhow, super nice guy and all is working now!

Glad you got it all worked out. Who did you deal with?

#1111 2 years ago

Was playing tonight, and out of nowhere, the right flipper started to jam in the up position. It would eventually go back down, but it kept taking longer and longer.

I went under the playfield, and I noticed a bolt was lose that was holding the flipper mechanism in place. I found it and put it back in, but I noticed that there was a lot of space and play on the right one, and nothing on the left. The video below shows this.



I tried wedging something under it, and it does reduce the jamming, but the flipper is still slower and weaker than the left one.

Does anyone know what needs to be done to fix this? Do I need a replacement from CGC on this part?

Thank you

#1112 2 years ago

It appears as if the flipper shaft is not aligned with the flipper bushing. Unhook the spring and realign, test the flipper bat by hand, it should be passive with no resistance. Once everything is aligned slowly re-tighten , re-test to make sure there is no resistance, re hook the spring and enjoy you MMR.

#1113 2 years ago

Here some more videos of the issue showing the difference betwwen left (good) and right (bad) flippers.



#1114 2 years ago

That gap with the right coil is concerning. Something is missing or assembled incorrectly. I think you need to take the right flipper mechanism apart and put it back together.

Is a coil sleeve missing?

Use this as a guide to taking it apart and to understand the anatomy of a flipper: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

As previously noted, pinball machine owners need to understand some basics of repair. Flipper mechs are a basic item and a good place to start understanding your machine. You'll enjoy it more! If you start a separate thread you are more likely to get help - it is a standard Williams design used in many other machines, so plenty of people have relevant experience.

#1115 2 years ago

You are going to need to tear down that flipper to figure out where it is binding. Looks like it's either the spring not springy enough or something in the coil sleeve is binding.

#1116 2 years ago

Can someone post the exact size of the back glass...I popped mine and need a replacement.

#1117 2 years ago

Random question... What are the dip switches used for?

I think mine shows 1 and 2 are one, and the rest are off.

#1118 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Random question... What are the dip switches used for?
I think mine shows 1 and 2 are one, and the rest are off.

Default language, for one. It says in the manual I believe.

#1119 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Random question... What are the dip switches used for?

Same as the dipswitches on the original MM CPU. Manual has the info. Language settings. On MMR it's on the screen now in the CGC menu.

LTG : )

#1120 2 years ago

Any advice on installing the Cliffy ball eject protector and the Cliffy catapault protector? I am not sure what needs to be disassembled, the Cliffy site details are lacking.

#1121 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Any advice on installing the Cliffy ball eject protector

Remove the two screws that hold the apron to the playfield hanger bracket (which hooks onto the lockdown bar). The apron should practically fall forward on its own, so catch it. I think you'll be able to see how the ball-eject protector fits.

#1122 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Cliffy catapault protector?

I'm not sure there's any great advice other than to start taking stuff apart in the area. Start with the plastic (of the knight with the arrow through his head). Take lots of pictures along the way.

#1123 2 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

Remove the two screws that hold the apron to the playfield hanger bracket (which hooks onto the lockdown bar). The apron should practically fall forward on its own, so catch it. I think you'll be able to see how the ball-eject protector fits.

I installed the Cliffy ball eject protector and the Cliffy Catapault protector. Thanks for your advice it was very helpful.

#1124 2 years ago

Anybody install the Cliffy moat jump protector? I am having a hard time figuring out what to disassemble for access.

#1125 2 years ago

If my mmr has been on for a while and I shut it down and try to turn it on 30 seconds later, I get the error message pictured here. When I disconnect the molex pictured here (with the black and yellow wires. It comes from the 12v power box to power the pcb.) and reseat it, the error message clears and the game boots up and plays. If I shut it down when its warm and wait 5 minutes, it turns back on normally without having to reseat anything. Could something be heating up to cause this?
I have been communicating with Chicago gaming and they have been accommodating and helpful. But I'm curious if this has happened to anyone else or if anyone has an opininion on it. Thanks

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#1126 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anybody install the Cliffy moat jump protector? I am having a hard time figuring out what to disassemble for access.

Any ideas?

#1127 2 years ago

You have to take off most of the castle and if you are good enough you won't have to take off the left ramp. Just take a bunch of pictures and go for it!

#1128 2 years ago
Quoted from Okarcades:

You have to take off most of the castle and if you are good enough you won't have to take off the left ramp. Just take a bunch of pictures and go for it!

The moat jump protector has an underside the playfield tab. Do you have to unscrew the green moat to get the tab underneath?

#1129 2 years ago
Quoted from Strummy:

If my mmr has been on for a while and I shut it down and try to turn it on 30 seconds later, I get the error message pictured here.

I've had this happen a couple of times. Often a power cycle will make it go away. When that didn't work I unplugged and replugged the CAT5 cable from the board in the backbox and the board under the playfield.

#1130 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

moat jump protector has an underside the playfield tab. Do you have to unscrew the green moat to get the tab underneath?

No

#1131 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Anybody install the Cliffy moat jump protector? I am having a hard time figuring out what to disassemble for access.

Here's a pic of when I did mine. The two towers have screws on each top and the entire front of castle comes right off afterwards for easy access. Ramp does not need to be removed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/15#post-3270153

Here's some more install pics on Cliffy's website.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/mm.htm

#1132 2 years ago
Quoted from sparechange1974:

Here's a pic of when I did mine. The two towers have screws on each top and the entire front of castle comes right off afterwards for easy access. Ramp does not need to be removed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/15#post-3270153
Here's some more install pics on Cliffy's website.
http://www.passionforpinball.com/mm.htm

I did take the castle front off like you showed but I could not figure out how to access the 2 screws holding the braket on that's already there. There is plastic preventing a socket wrench from getting in there. Any ideas?

#1133 2 years ago

So, is production winding down on MMr? Just seen "last orders for MMr" from a distributor

#1134 2 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

So, is production winding down on MMr? Just seen "last orders for MMr" from a distributor

Only speculation at this point but something seems to be up with Stern Vs CGC. If the next remake is being made by CGC in house, one might conclude that the relationship has significantly changed and that both parties want to wrap up the MMr production and move on. At least we got to enjoy the fruits of their collaborative efforts.

#1135 2 years ago

Getting the protectors in slowly but surely. Not entirely happy with the Merlin hole protector. I have the Merlin protector on its way fro Pinbits. I have the lighted troll eye led kit coming too. That should be cool

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#1136 2 years ago

Would some one mind shooting a picture under the playfield for me. I need to see the wiring on molex connectors 25, 22, 24, and 37. I accidentally pulled out a wire on one of them while installing the Merlin hole protector. They're located to the left of the Merlin hole solenoid. Thanks!

#1137 2 years ago

Are there batteries to worry about leaking on the MMR somewhere? Didn't see them in my travels under the playfield.

#1138 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I did take the castle front off like you showed but I could not figure out how to access the 2 screws holding the braket on that's already there. There is plastic preventing a socket wrench from getting in there. Any ideas?

Any Ideas? (Cliffy Moat Jump Protector install...)

#1139 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Are there batteries to worry about leaking on the MMR somewhere? Didn't see them in my travels under the playfield.

Just a coin cell CR2032 in the backbox, same as any modern Stern, etc.

#1140 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Any Ideas? (Cliffy Moat Jump Protector install...)

I just put mine in today. take the two nuts off of the plastic. you should be able to squeeze a nut driver or socket with an extension bar in to loosen the screws.

#1141 2 years ago
Quoted from Strummy:

I just put mine in today. take the two nuts off of the plastic. you should be able to squeeze a nut driver or socket with an extension bar in to loosen the screws.

2 nuts meaning nut near a red cone light behind and above the moat jump and the second one is the catapault ball guide nut on the side? Sorry looked at this for awhile yesterday and did not see how to get the plastic loose.

#1142 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

2 nuts meaning nut near a red cone light behind and above the moat jump and the second one is the catapault ball guide nut on the side? Sorry looked at this for awhile yesterday and did not see how to get the plastic loose.

Catapult side nut and then the two nuts on the plastic. You should also compress a few of those off white connectors to loosen up the tower plastics that has the red flasher in it. That way you can move the plastics around to acess that particular nut much easier.

Quoted from Strummy:

Would some one mind shooting a picture under the playfield for me. I need to see the wiring on molex connectors 25, 22, 24, and 37. I accidentally pulled out a wire on one of them while installing the Merlin hole protector. They're located to the left of the Merlin hole solenoid. Thanks!

Would you mind snapping a picture for me regarding this?

#1143 2 years ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Catapult side nut and then the two nuts on the plastic. You should also compress a few of those off white connectors to loosen up the tower plastics that has the red flasher in it. That way you can move the plastics around to acess that particular nut much easier.

Would you mind snapping a picture for me regarding this?

Not near my MMR right now but will do late tonite if you do not have a response yet by then.

#1144 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Not near my MMR right now but will do late tonite if you do not have a response yet by then.

Thank you

#1145 2 years ago

I know I read somewhere about people complaining about the side rails on MMR being sharp. People said they had used something to clean them up and now I can't find it. I cut a chunk out of my thumb when wiping down the side rail so I figured I should shave them down some before my two year old cuts herself on them. Anyone have any suggestions?

#1146 2 years ago
Quoted from SNES:

I know I read somewhere about people complaining about the side rails on MMR being sharp. People said they had used something to clean them up and now I can't find it. I cut a chunk out of my thumb when wiping down the side rail so I figured I should shave them down some before my two year old cuts herself on them. Anyone have any suggestions?

Can you give us a pic of exactly what spot is sharp.We can better assess the situation and offer a more informed solution. I only heard of this issue only once in another thread. Powder coating usually makes edges dull not sharp.

#1147 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Can you give us a pic of exactly what spot is sharp.We can better assess the situation and offer a more informed solution. I only heard of this issue only once in another thread. Powder coating usually makes edges dull not sharp.

I assume his isn't powder coated, but the best version: original SS.

But yes, pic or description of what exactly is sharp would help.

#1148 2 years ago

On my machine (stainless), all edges of the side rails and the lockdown bar were sharp. I used a Dremel and a sanding attachment to smooth all the edges that could be touched. I used a thin piece of plastic I had lying around to help protect the sanding bit from the decals when sanding the side rails.

Obviously you could use a sanding block, but I find the Dremel is perfect for this job and allows you to focus on being precise.

#1149 2 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I assume his isn't powder coated, but the best version: original SS.
But yes, pic or description of what exactly is sharp would help.

Lol, I forgot that there was an SS version.

#1150 2 years ago

Sorry guys, here is what I am talking about. The rail is like a razor above the glass on both sides from the head to the lockdown bar. The lockdown bar is sort of sharp but not nearly as bad as the rails. I included a pic of the thumb just to show I'm not being a panzy about it haha. Marc messaged me to open a ticket so I'll go that route. Thanks for the responses guys!

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