(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed


By SuperPinball

4 years ago



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There are 4734 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 95.
#1051 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

What are your plans for the metal flap on top of the troll carriage ? It won't fit through the hole in the playfield.
LTG : )

Yes it will dude....... Read post six like I stated above

#1052 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

Yes it will dude....... Read post six like I stated above

I yield. I've only be removing troll carriages for twenty years. What do I know.

LTG : )

-2
#1053 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I yield. I've only be removing troll carriages for twenty years. What do I know.
LTG : )

When someone gives you useful correct info maybe you should try it before saying it wont work....

#1054 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

When someone gives you useful correct info maybe you should try it before saying it wont work....

Over the years I have tried that. And came to the conclusion that one bolt and one connector was easiest.

LTG : )

#1055 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Take off two wire clips, take off the two springs, remove the troll flap. Then unplug two connectors and unbolt the whole assembly and drop down. And on reassembly lose the clips or springs trying to get them back on the posts on the metal flap.
Or my way, one connector and one bolt. Hmmmmmmm , my way seems easier. Though the left troll you would need to remove the wireform above it.
per3per3 didn't do what I posted and removed the wrong thing and no way he can get the troll carriage out of the game.
LTG : )

I had to remove the left troll because of an intermittent switch and indeed it is *much* easier to pull it up and out. I was dreading
the other method (I've done it before) but removing the black bolt and simply pulling up the mech is the way to go.

Not sure why he can't wiggle the assembly free. If it's the misaligned/broken leaf switch then he needs to simply line those up - put that
nut back on (if that helps hold them straight) and try again.

I'd agree that trying to take the troll flap off to pull it from underneath might too much for a first time attempt.

#1056 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Over the years I have tried that. And came to the conclusion that one bolt and one connector was easiest.
LTG : )

I guess will have to agree to disagree. I can tell you that going through the bottom does work.... When you fit the flap through you just have to be patient and try not to force anything.....

#1057 2 years ago
Quoted from mamemaster:

Anyone getting a time/date error again? I updated months ago (when it came out) -and it stopped. But it started reasserting itself after 1/1.
I've reset it a few times now....wonder what changed?
Anyone?

Please file a ticket with Chicago Gaming and PM me the ticket number.

Marc

#1058 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

I guess will have to agree to disagree. I can tell you that going through the bottom does work....

It does work. But the fiddly job of removing the troll flap might be too much for a first timer. The other method involves a single bolt...one that he has already removed.

#1059 2 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

It does work. But the fiddly job of removing the troll flap might be too much for a first timer. The other method involves a single bolt...one that he has already removed.

You don't have to remove troll flap at all - just fit it through playfield, that's the beauty of it....

troll_wire (resized).jpg

trolls! (resized).jpg

#1060 2 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Not sure why he can't wiggle the assembly free.

Because the troll carriage is still bolted to the plunger. I posted to remove the bolt holding the troll carriage to plunger. par3par3 removed the locknut holding the plastic switch guard on.

LTG : )

#1061 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

You don't have to remove troll flap at all - just fit it through playfield, that's the beauty of it....

Yeah I now understand. Did not realize the flap would indeed make it through the PF hole attached...interesting. Still he claims he has the black bolt out at this point so the thing should be out at this point from the top.

If it's just the leaf switch that needs adjusting (like mine did) I don't know why I'd want to remove the entire assembly though. Even to replace it (as it looks like he will have to) he'll still just need the top half.

Still - I learned a new trick today. Thx!

#1062 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Because the troll carriage is still bolted to the plunger. I posted to remove the bolt holding the troll carriage to plunger. par3par3 removed the locknut holding the plastic switch guard on.
LTG : )

Yeah I saw that too but in his very next message he said he had now removed the black bolt and that it was free... but wouldn't pass through the hole. So who knows now??

#1063 2 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Yeah I now understand. Did not realize the flap would indeed make it through the PF hole attached...interesting. Still he claims he has the black bolt out at this point so the thing should be out at this point from the top.
If it's just the leaf switch that needs adjusting (like mine did) I don't know why I'd want to remove the entire assembly though. Even to replace it (as it looks like he will have to) he'll still just need the top half.
Still - I learned a new trick today. Thx!

You're Welcome! For me it was easier working on the assembly once it is completely out of the game. Much more room to work and keep track of parts....

#1064 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Because the troll carriage is still bolted to the plunger. I posted to remove the bolt holding the troll carriage to plunger. par3par3 removed the locknut holding the plastic switch guard on.
LTG : )

post #1041 says he got the bolt out... if that helps.

#1065 2 years ago

I appreciate everyone's help and I'm happy to say that I fixed the issue. I was able to get the mechanism to clear the playfield and with a lot of patience I was able to use a needlenose to tighten the screw. I also adjusted the leaf switch and that damn troll is 100%!

Two more adjustments needed where I could use advice:

1) The lock isn't reliably registering and I'm not sure what optos to check

2) When I hit the damsel shot and the ball drops down and is held by the divertor, the divertor drops as it should but the ball doesn't eject with shaking the machine a bit. It's happened each time. What can I adjust? The divertor doesn't seem to be the issue as it seems to fully clear the ball's path when it releases.

THANKS!!

#1066 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

1) The lock isn't reliably registering and I'm not sure what optos to check

The VUK to the left of the castle moat ? Only one set of optos on it. Easy to check in Tests - Switch Edge, see if it works, and plunger isn't blocking the optos.

Quoted from per3per3:

but the ball doesn't eject

A little tougher. The ball could be sticking on the plastic stone wall, or diverter isn't going low enough to allow the ball to roll. You may need to remove the ramp to get a clear look at where the ball if getting stuck.

LTG : )

#1067 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The VUK to the left of the castle moat ? Only one set of optos on it. Easy to check in Tests - Switch Edge, see if it works, and plunger isn't blocking the optos.

A little tougher. The ball could be sticking on the plastic stone wall, or diverter isn't going low enough to allow the ball to roll. You may need to remove the ramp to get a clear look at where the ball if getting stuck.
LTG : )

For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time

For #2 here's what happening: the ball drops down, the divertor open (retracts down below the playfield, and ball doesn't eject until you sit there long enough for the game to do it's "I don't know where the ball is" dance and it then ejects no problem. This makes me believe it's not the divertor post

#1068 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time

The green moat under the playfield. Only one switch on it. Please check that it is mounted right, not loose. It's connector still plugged in. You may need to make it more sensitive. Loosen screws and move switch body so the wire the ball hits is more sensitive, or bend the wire the ball hits up a little.

Quoted from per3per3:

This makes me believe it's not the divertor post

Then maybe it's sticking on the lip of the plastic damsel tower.

LTG : )

#1069 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time
For #2 here's what happening: the ball drops down, the divertor open (retracts down below the playfield, and ball doesn't eject until you sit there long enough for the game to do it's "I don't know where the ball is" dance and it then ejects no problem. This makes me believe it's not the divertor post

I had this exact issue.inside the damsel castle, there is a lip the ball gets stuck on. Unfortunately, you need to remove the right ramp, remove the screw on the top of the castle, slide a #8 nut underneath the screw so as to raise the castle a bit. This allows the ball to drop down more rather than get stuck on the lip. If I were designing the game, that lip would be gone. When you remove the ramp, put your finger in there and you'll feel it.

#1070 2 years ago

I am setting up MMR as I just picked it up. I cannot unlock the backbox. Are the backbox keys and the coin door keys the same? For some reason it won't turn the lock. Thanks!

#1071 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

I am setting up MMR as I just picked it up. I cannot unlock the backbox. Are the backbox keys and the coin door keys the same? For some reason it won't turn the lock. Thanks!

Should be another key hanging on a clip on the coin door I think.....

#1072 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

Should be another key hanging on a clip on the coin door I think.....

Yes found it! Thanks for the head's up.

#1073 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Are the backbox keys and the coin door keys the same?

No. Open the coin door, on a hook you should see another key, on the side of a coin chute or on the inside of the door.

LTG : )

#1074 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The green moat under the playfield. Only one switch on it. Please check that it is mounted right, not loose. It's connector still plugged in. You may need to make it more sensitive. Loosen screws and move switch body so the wire the ball hits is more sensitive, or bend the wire the ball hits up a little.

Then maybe it's sticking on the lip of the plastic damsel tower.
LTG : )

For #1, unfortunately I've tried everything that I can think of and can't get the stupid switch to register reliably. I switch the switch's position on the switch housing to to the closer setting, I experimented with bending the wire to make it more sensitive (to expose more above the playfield), and I confirmed that the switch housing is securely screwed in and tight. Basically, when the ball flys by the switch more quickly it just won't register. I submitted a support ticket to hopefully get a new switch.

For #2 I spoke with Rob (lermods) and can confirm that it's the same issue he experienced. The ball is just barely getting hung up and if the castle was lifted just a bit (per his suggestion) then it would fix it. I think I can execute the fix if I could only remove the clear plastic piece that sits above the damsel tower. The problem is that it seems really difficult to do without removing tbe ramp: the plastic is held on by 3 flathead screws that are secured to a nut at the bottom and those are really tough to reach. I was really hoping to not have to remove the right ramp.

-1
#1075 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I appreciate everyone's help and I'm happy to say that I fixed the issue. I was able to get the mechanism to clear the playfield and with a lot of patience I was able to use a needlenose to tighten the screw. I also adjusted the leaf switch and that damn troll is 100%!
Two more adjustments needed where I could use advice:
1) The lock isn't reliably registering and I'm not sure what optos to check
2) When I hit the damsel shot and the ball drops down and is held by the divertor, the divertor drops as it should but the ball doesn't eject with shaking the machine a bit. It's happened each time. What can I adjust? The divertor doesn't seem to be the issue as it seems to fully clear the ball's path when it releases.
THANKS!!

there had been useful info here but the attitude of certain users below made me remove it.

but don't listen to unverified trash on this forum, we can't be trusted.

#1076 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

What are your plans for the metal flap on top of the troll carriage ? It won't fit through the hole in the playfield.

Brute force should do it

#1077 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

For #1, unfortunately I've tried everything that I can think of and can't get the stupid switch to register reliably. I switch the switch's position on the switch housing to to the closer setting, I experimented with bending the wire to make it more sensitive (to expose more above the playfield), and I confirmed that the switch housing is securely screwed in and tight. Basically, when the ball flys by the switch more quickly it just won't register. I submitted a support ticket to hopefully get a new switch.
For #2 I spoke with Rob (lermods) and can confirm that it's the same issue he experienced. The ball is just barely getting hung up and if the castle was lifted just a bit (per his suggestion) then it would fix it. I think I can execute the fix if I could only remove the clear plastic piece that sits above the damsel tower. The problem is that it seems really difficult to do without removing tbe ramp: the plastic is held on by 3 flathead screws that are secured to a nut at the bottom and those are really tough to reach. I was really hoping to not have to remove the right ramp.

Taking the right ramp off isn't that bad. One nut by the inlane, four screws at ramp entrance, one nut under the dragons left wing and one nut on a long post back left. That's it. Undo all that, slide ramp to the left and you have access to the damsel castle screw. Not more than 30 minutes tops.

#1078 2 years ago
Quoted from volcanodiver:

1, none, the lock is the physical switch in the moat under the castle. If a ball goes through the gate, it trips the opto, then the wire switch in the moat, castle hit is registered. If a ball goes through the lock flap it only hits the the wire switch and registers a lock.
but don't listen to unverified trash on this forum, we can't be trusted.

I've had situations where I've nailed the open castle shot but it didn't register, so that means that you still need the ball to hit this switch to register a castle takedown...right? The optos don't trigger the castle takedown, so I'm assuming they tell the game that the switch hit immediately following the optos should destroy the castle. what an unfortunate switch to be acting up!!

-4
#1079 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I've had situations where I've nailed the open castle shot but it didn't register, so that means that you still need the ball to hit this switch to register a castle takedown...right? The optos don't trigger the castle takedown, so I'm assuming they tell the game that the switch hit immediately following the optos should destroy the castle. what an unfortunate switch to be acting up!!

there had been useful info here but the attitude of certain users below made me remove it.

but don't listen to unverified trash on this forum, we can't be trusted.

-2
#1080 2 years ago
Quoted from volcanodiver:

but don't listen to unverified trash on this forum, we can't be trusted.

If you're so jaded with Pinside, why are you still here? There are other pinball related forums.

-4
#1081 2 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

If you're so jaded with Pinside, why are you still here? There are other pinball related forums.

such a welcoming attitude here. well that's what you get for being helpful. time to edit out the helpful stuff

-2
#1082 2 years ago

Cry me a river. You act like a two year old throwing tantrums left and right.

#1083 2 years ago

I think it's nice that we all help each other out. We also need to understand that we are not all experts but enthusiasts that really enjoy pinball. That said we approach certain problems differently depending on our experiences and backgrounds. Some ways of doing things may be better than others or better put may be better in your hands than in the hands of others. We shouldn't feel that if an alternate opinion is presented that it's a personal attack. It's just that, an alternate opinion or way of doing things. I will use my example where I posted a really easy swap of the old speakers for kickers and posted pics also. An alternate opinion was presented where chrisnack suggested that I should rewire in parallel to not drop down to 2 ohms. He is theoretically correct and I am grateful that he mentioned it. In my hands the ease of install and the 4 month track record made it a viable option for others to do. People in this forum have 2 different ways of doing it, both work. Pulling Trolls out vs in through the hole is the same situation. Both clearly work and one may be better than the other for certain people. Bottom line is that alternate opinions and viewpoints are always welcome as long as its done with helping people in mind. Now everyone grab a beer and play some MMR.

#1084 2 years ago

Does anyone have any tips on easy removal of the apron? Can't seem to easily loosen the nut on the right keeping it in place, I'm pretty sure I'm missing something obvious here...

#1085 2 years ago

Should be simple. Lift playfield up a little and rest on the front of the cabinet. Unscrew the two screws holding the apron on. Then gently push the apron forward and lift out.

Just a screw with a nut head, should just unscrew.

LTG : )

#1086 2 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

I think it's nice that we all help each other out. We also need to understand that we are not all experts but enthusiasts that really enjoy pinball. That said we approach certain problems differently depending on our experiences and backgrounds. Some ways of doing things may be better than others or better put may be better in your hands than in the hands of others. We shouldn't feel that if an alternate opinion is presented that it's a personal attack. It's just that, an alternate opinion or way of doing things. I will use my example where I posted a really easy swap of the old speakers for kickers and posted pics also. An alternate opinion was presented where chrisnack suggested that I should rewire in parallel to not drop down to 2 ohms. He is theoretically correct and I am grateful that he mentioned it. In my hands the ease of install and the 4 month track record made it a viable option for others to do. People in this forum have 2 different ways of doing it, both work. Pulling Trolls out vs in through the hole is the same situation. Both clearly work and one may be better than the other for certain people. Bottom line is that alternate opinions and viewpoints are always welcome as long as its done with helping people in mind. Now everyone grab a beer and play some MMR.

Spoken like a gentleman....more of this is needed on Pinside!

13
#1087 2 years ago

My MMR standard should be here within the next three hours! So excited to join the club!!

#1088 2 years ago

Does anyone know the wiring on the moat flashers? I'm seeing 12v on the yellow and 5v on the blue. I didn't see in the schematic how they work, assuming the might be computer controller?

I wanted to hook up a relay to power a green led strip behind castle to flash with the moat.

#1089 2 years ago

I would pick the flasher you want to trigger your new LED strip and put a multimeter across it (most likely DC) and measure the voltage in flasher test mode. Then goto Comet pinball and pick up the LED strip. Their LED strips do both AC and DC. Pick the voltage that is closest to what you measured and it should work...

#1090 2 years ago

I picked up this awesome game a couple of days ago, and now I'm having a huge issue. The optical sensors that trigger the drawbridge are not working at all. When I run the test, I notice if I run my fingers through, it will detect. But anytime I pass the ball through, it does nothing. I've tried pushing them in a million different directions to realign them, and nothing. However, if I push down on one of them, and then pass the ball through, it usually works.

I have no idea what is going on, but I'm totally frustrated and disappointed as the game is rendered pretty much useless without being able to open the drawbridge as I'm sue you'd all agree.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you

#1091 2 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

I would pick the flasher you want to trigger your new LED strip and put a multimeter across it (most likely DC) and measure the voltage in flasher test mode. Then goto Comet pinball and pick up the LED strip. Their LED strips do both AC and DC. Pick the voltage that is closest to what you measured and it should work...

Kind of what i did hence the 12v and 5v. I tested with my relay using both the 5v and trying it as a ground trigger, as i can see the voltage drop on the 5v in test mode. However neither worked.

I could potentially just use one of the standard (red dome) flashers, but i really wanted it tied to the moat.

#1092 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I picked up this awesome game a couple of days ago, and now I'm having a huge issue. The optical sensors that trigger the drawbridge are not working at all. When I run the test, I notice if I run my fingers through, it will detect. But anytime I pass the ball through, it does nothing. I've tried pushing them in a million different directions to realign them, and nothing. However, if I push down on one of them, and then pass the ball through, it usually works.
I have no idea what is going on, but I'm totally frustrated and disappointed as the game is rendered pretty much useless without being able to open the drawbridge as I'm sue you'd all agree.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you

Sounds like they are misaligned in some way. You can always open a support ticket with CGC, they have been very good with the couple minor issues i've had. I had a switch in the outer orbit go bad and i got a replacement fairly quickly. Also has a software issue (losing time/date) and they sent me new code within a few days to test (which the issue hasn't come back).

#1093 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Sounds like they are misaligned in some way. You can always open a support ticket with CGC, they have been very good with the couple minor issues i've had. I had a switch in the outer orbit go bad and i got a replacement fairly quickly. Also has a software issue (losing time/date) and they sent me new code within a few days to test (which the issue hasn't come back).

Oh, I sent an email to Planetary. So CGC is who I need to go through?

I tried wedging something beside the sensor, and nothing works. Then I noticed when I touch the screw that holds the opto board in place, and I roll the ball through, it work.

Could it be some sort of ground or connection issue?

Also, the machine is 3 days old. Do I go to the store for service (I know they give a 90 day warranty) or do I go straight to CGC?

Thanks

#1094 2 years ago

Go straight to CGC website

#1095 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Could it be some sort of ground or connection issue?

No - screw goes into plastic. Maybe loose connection at opto or the plug for the optos is loose at the board it plugs onto.

Quoted from Damien:

So CGC is who I need to go through?

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ under Support - Help Desk, open a ticket.

LTG : )

#1097 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No - screw goes into plastic. Maybe loose connection at opto or the plug for the optos is loose at the board it plugs onto.

nder Support - Help Desk, open a ticket.
LTG : )

I'm not very technical at all, but I'm thinking it's something lose. Seems like it needs some sort of touch, even extremely gentle, to be able to detect a ball going through. It does detect my finger most of the time. But usually closer to the black sensor. The white one seems to be the problem.

If it is something lose, how would CGC service this? I am in Canada.

Thanks

#1098 2 years ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Kind of what i did hence the 12v and 5v. I tested with my relay using both the 5v and trying it as a ground trigger, as i can see the voltage drop on the 5v in test mode. However neither worked.
I could potentially just use one of the standard (red dome) flashers, but i really wanted it tied to the moat.

I would hook up the LED strip by using alligator clips if possible. Hook the clips across the flasher leads and test....

#1099 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

If it is something lose, how would CGC service this? I am in Canada.

Their warranty is parts, not labor.

Check with who you bought the game from, if they provide any service.

LTG : )

#1100 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Their warranty is parts, not labor.
Check with who you bought the game from, if they provide any service.
LTG : )

Seriously?!?!

For this kind of money, you would think they would be sending someone over in a tuxedo to fix it.

I'll have to see what the store I bought it from ensures.

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