Yes it will dude....... Read post six like I stated above

I yield. I've only be removing troll carriages for twenty years. What do I know.

LTG : )

When someone gives you useful correct info maybe you should try it before saying it wont work....

Over the years I have tried that. And came to the conclusion that one bolt and one connector was easiest.

LTG : )

I had to remove the left troll because of an intermittent switch and indeed it is *much* easier to pull it up and out. I was dreading
the other method (I've done it before) but removing the black bolt and simply pulling up the mech is the way to go.

Not sure why he can't wiggle the assembly free. If it's the misaligned/broken leaf switch then he needs to simply line those up - put that
nut back on (if that helps hold them straight) and try again.

I'd agree that trying to take the troll flap off to pull it from underneath might too much for a first time attempt.

I guess will have to agree to disagree. I can tell you that going through the bottom does work.... When you fit the flap through you just have to be patient and try not to force anything.....

Please file a ticket with Chicago Gaming and PM me the ticket number.

Marc

It does work. But the fiddly job of removing the troll flap might be too much for a first timer. The other method involves a single bolt...one that he has already removed.

You don't have to remove troll flap at all - just fit it through playfield, that's the beauty of it....

troll_wire (resized).jpg

trolls! (resized).jpg

Because the troll carriage is still bolted to the plunger. I posted to remove the bolt holding the troll carriage to plunger. par3par3 removed the locknut holding the plastic switch guard on.

LTG : )

Yeah I now understand. Did not realize the flap would indeed make it through the PF hole attached...interesting. Still he claims he has the black bolt out at this point so the thing should be out at this point from the top.

If it's just the leaf switch that needs adjusting (like mine did) I don't know why I'd want to remove the entire assembly though. Even to replace it (as it looks like he will have to) he'll still just need the top half.

Still - I learned a new trick today. Thx!

Yeah I saw that too but in his very next message he said he had now removed the black bolt and that it was free... but wouldn't pass through the hole. So who knows now??

You're Welcome! For me it was easier working on the assembly once it is completely out of the game. Much more room to work and keep track of parts....

post #1041 says he got the bolt out... if that helps.

I appreciate everyone's help and I'm happy to say that I fixed the issue. I was able to get the mechanism to clear the playfield and with a lot of patience I was able to use a needlenose to tighten the screw. I also adjusted the leaf switch and that damn troll is 100%!

Two more adjustments needed where I could use advice:

1) The lock isn't reliably registering and I'm not sure what optos to check

2) When I hit the damsel shot and the ball drops down and is held by the divertor, the divertor drops as it should but the ball doesn't eject with shaking the machine a bit. It's happened each time. What can I adjust? The divertor doesn't seem to be the issue as it seems to fully clear the ball's path when it releases.

THANKS!!

The VUK to the left of the castle moat ? Only one set of optos on it. Easy to check in Tests - Switch Edge, see if it works, and plunger isn't blocking the optos.

A little tougher. The ball could be sticking on the plastic stone wall, or diverter isn't going low enough to allow the ball to roll. You may need to remove the ramp to get a clear look at where the ball if getting stuck.

LTG : )

For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time

For #2 here's what happening: the ball drops down, the divertor open (retracts down below the playfield, and ball doesn't eject until you sit there long enough for the game to do it's "I don't know where the ball is" dance and it then ejects no problem. This makes me believe it's not the divertor post

The green moat under the playfield. Only one switch on it. Please check that it is mounted right, not loose. It's connector still plugged in. You may need to make it more sensitive. Loosen screws and move switch body so the wire the ball hits is more sensitive, or bend the wire the ball hits up a little.

Then maybe it's sticking on the lip of the plastic damsel tower.

LTG : )

I had this exact issue.inside the damsel castle, there is a lip the ball gets stuck on. Unfortunately, you need to remove the right ramp, remove the screw on the top of the castle, slide a #8 nut underneath the screw so as to raise the castle a bit. This allows the ball to drop down more rather than get stuck on the lip. If I were designing the game, that lip would be gone. When you remove the ramp, put your finger in there and you'll feel it.

I am setting up MMR as I just picked it up. I cannot unlock the backbox. Are the backbox keys and the coin door keys the same? For some reason it won't turn the lock. Thanks!

Should be another key hanging on a clip on the coin door I think.....

Yes found it! Thanks for the head's up.

No. Open the coin door, on a hook you should see another key, on the side of a coin chute or on the inside of the door.

LTG : )

For #1, unfortunately I've tried everything that I can think of and can't get the stupid switch to register reliably. I switch the switch's position on the switch housing to to the closer setting, I experimented with bending the wire to make it more sensitive (to expose more above the playfield), and I confirmed that the switch housing is securely screwed in and tight. Basically, when the ball flys by the switch more quickly it just won't register. I submitted a support ticket to hopefully get a new switch.

For #2 I spoke with Rob (lermods) and can confirm that it's the same issue he experienced. The ball is just barely getting hung up and if the castle was lifted just a bit (per his suggestion) then it would fix it. I think I can execute the fix if I could only remove the clear plastic piece that sits above the damsel tower. The problem is that it seems really difficult to do without removing tbe ramp: the plastic is held on by 3 flathead screws that are secured to a nut at the bottom and those are really tough to reach. I was really hoping to not have to remove the right ramp.

there had been useful info here but the attitude of certain users below made me remove it.

but don't listen to unverified trash on this forum, we can't be trusted.

Brute force should do it

Taking the right ramp off isn't that bad. One nut by the inlane, four screws at ramp entrance, one nut under the dragons left wing and one nut on a long post back left. That's it. Undo all that, slide ramp to the left and you have access to the damsel castle screw. Not more than 30 minutes tops.

I've had situations where I've nailed the open castle shot but it didn't register, so that means that you still need the ball to hit this switch to register a castle takedown...right? The optos don't trigger the castle takedown, so I'm assuming they tell the game that the switch hit immediately following the optos should destroy the castle. what an unfortunate switch to be acting up!!

there had been useful info here but the attitude of certain users below made me remove it.

but don't listen to unverified trash on this forum, we can't be trusted.

If you're so jaded with Pinside, why are you still here? There are other pinball related forums.

such a welcoming attitude here. well that's what you get for being helpful. time to edit out the helpful stuff

Cry me a river. You act like a two year old throwing tantrums left and right.

Does anyone have any tips on easy removal of the apron? Can't seem to easily loosen the nut on the right keeping it in place, I'm pretty sure I'm missing something obvious here...

Should be simple. Lift playfield up a little and rest on the front of the cabinet. Unscrew the two screws holding the apron on. Then gently push the apron forward and lift out.

Just a screw with a nut head, should just unscrew.

LTG : )

Spoken like a gentleman....more of this is needed on Pinside!

My MMR standard should be here within the next three hours! So excited to join the club!!

Does anyone know the wiring on the moat flashers? I'm seeing 12v on the yellow and 5v on the blue. I didn't see in the schematic how they work, assuming the might be computer controller?

I wanted to hook up a relay to power a green led strip behind castle to flash with the moat.

I would pick the flasher you want to trigger your new LED strip and put a multimeter across it (most likely DC) and measure the voltage in flasher test mode. Then goto Comet pinball and pick up the LED strip. Their LED strips do both AC and DC. Pick the voltage that is closest to what you measured and it should work...

I picked up this awesome game a couple of days ago, and now I'm having a huge issue. The optical sensors that trigger the drawbridge are not working at all. When I run the test, I notice if I run my fingers through, it will detect. But anytime I pass the ball through, it does nothing. I've tried pushing them in a million different directions to realign them, and nothing. However, if I push down on one of them, and then pass the ball through, it usually works.

I have no idea what is going on, but I'm totally frustrated and disappointed as the game is rendered pretty much useless without being able to open the drawbridge as I'm sue you'd all agree.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you

Kind of what i did hence the 12v and 5v. I tested with my relay using both the 5v and trying it as a ground trigger, as i can see the voltage drop on the 5v in test mode. However neither worked.

I could potentially just use one of the standard (red dome) flashers, but i really wanted it tied to the moat.

Sounds like they are misaligned in some way. You can always open a support ticket with CGC, they have been very good with the couple minor issues i've had. I had a switch in the outer orbit go bad and i got a replacement fairly quickly. Also has a software issue (losing time/date) and they sent me new code within a few days to test (which the issue hasn't come back).

Oh, I sent an email to Planetary. So CGC is who I need to go through?

I tried wedging something beside the sensor, and nothing works. Then I noticed when I touch the screw that holds the opto board in place, and I roll the ball through, it work.

Could it be some sort of ground or connection issue?

Also, the machine is 3 days old. Do I go to the store for service (I know they give a 90 day warranty) or do I go straight to CGC?

Thanks

Go straight to CGC website

No - screw goes into plastic. Maybe loose connection at opto or the plug for the optos is loose at the board it plugs onto.

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ under Support - Help Desk, open a ticket.

LTG : )

I'm not very technical at all, but I'm thinking it's something lose. Seems like it needs some sort of touch, even extremely gentle, to be able to detect a ball going through. It does detect my finger most of the time. But usually closer to the black sensor. The white one seems to be the problem.

If it is something lose, how would CGC service this? I am in Canada.

Thanks

I would hook up the LED strip by using alligator clips if possible. Hook the clips across the flasher leads and test....

Their warranty is parts, not labor.

Check with who you bought the game from, if they provide any service.

LTG : )

Seriously?!?!

For this kind of money, you would think they would be sending someone over in a tuxedo to fix it.

I'll have to see what the store I bought it from ensures.