(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

8 years ago


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#10051 54 days ago
Quoted from Delta9:

A power supply has 12v and 5 volt with out the buck converter

it's not a universal rule that "a power supply" must have anything in particular.
the MMR manual suggests that the DC power supply in this machine only provides 12V.
Due to your comment i opened mine up and confirmed that it only provides a single voltage

I plan to tap in here to V+/V- for my buck converter.

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#10052 54 days ago

I see what your saying know if I was in your shoes I’d just buy a new power supply I think their like 30$ on eBay 12volt and 5 volt safer choice

18
#10053 53 days ago

Here's my painted castle, before it goes back in the machine. I primed it black and re-painted the whole thing after I cut out all the windows for lights. So many details i never noticed before. There are two spiders!

I also drilled holes in the skull eyes for leds (painted over the leds, can only see them when their own. I did 2 circuits, 1 with a high ohm resistor connected to gI, and a much lower ohm resistor I'm gonna connect to a insert or flasher (if a flasher I guess i need to step down the flasher voltage because i accidentally designed it for 5v)

But most proud of
1. painting eyes on the rat
2. having wood plank textured tops on all 3 towers, with little trap doors, to cover up the ugly plain base and screw. I have not seen this before and is a really nice touch.
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#10054 53 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Here's my painted castle, before it goes back in the machine. I primed it black and re-painted the whole thing after I cut out all the windows for lights. So many details i never noticed before. There are two spiders!
I also drilled holes in the skull eyes for leds (painted over the leds, can only see them when their own. I did 2 circuits, 1 with a high ohm resistor connected to gI, and a much lower ohm resistor I'm gonna connect to a insert or flasher (if a flasher I guess i need to step down the flasher voltage because i accidentally designed it for 5v)
But most proud of
1. painting eyes on the rat
2. having wood plank textured tops on all 3 towers, with little trap doors, to cover up the ugly plain base and screw. I have not seen this before and is a really nice touch.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Holy crap! That looks amazing.

#10055 53 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Here's my painted castle, before it goes back in the machine. I primed it black and re-painted the whole thing after I cut out all the windows for lights. So many details i never noticed before. There are two spiders!
I also drilled holes in the skull eyes for leds (painted over the leds, can only see them when their own. I did 2 circuits, 1 with a high ohm resistor connected to gI, and a much lower ohm resistor I'm gonna connect to a insert or flasher (if a flasher I guess i need to step down the flasher voltage because i accidentally designed it for 5v)
But most proud of
1. painting eyes on the rat
2. having wood plank textured tops on all 3 towers, with little trap doors, to cover up the ugly plain base and screw. I have not seen this before and is a really nice touch.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Bravo! Seriously, very nice job!
I'd up-vote this one twice if I could
The wood plank is such a legit detail.
To some of us, modding our pins to "make it mine" is so satisfying.
Okay, now get that thing back together and bash the crap out of it!

#10056 53 days ago

Did you 3-D print the wood planking? Is the file available somewhere to download? That looks great!

#10057 53 days ago
Quoted from Strohz:

Did you 3-D print the wood planking? Is the file available somewhere to download? That looks great!

I 3d printed a texture roller, and then rolled it onto modelling clay, and then cut the clay to fit the tower. Honestly it was a huge pain in the ass. In hindsight, I'd find some STL with wood plank texture, maybe a miniatures base or something, stamp it out a few times if its not big enough, edit it in cad to get the right scale and make it a thin disc, put the trap door on top, and then export it as a STL ready to go.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/free-tile-and-wooden-planks-texture-rollers
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-trapdoor-195936

#10058 53 days ago

I was playing the video mode last night and its interesting how they have not updated the graphics on the video mode itself. I wonder if that was too difficult for collision detection or something.. Any thoughts?

#10059 51 days ago
Quoted from vikeking27:

Anyone have some tips for aligning the troll flap with the cutout/hole for the assembly pop-up? My left one is pretty mis-aligned, I tried rotating the entire thing and tightening it back down, but it kind of just stays in the same spot - mis-aligned.

Just bumping this one up a bit to see if anyone has tips - adding a photo. Tried a few different things since posting but can't get it to stay aligned.

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#10060 51 days ago
Quoted from vikeking27:

Just bumping this one up a bit to see if anyone has tips - adding a photo. Tried a few different things since posting but can't get it to stay aligned.

Are the welds on the carriage popped? Mine broke and when it started it looked like this and then they fully gave out.

#10061 51 days ago

On MMR opto connection. What size terminal clips do I need? Picture is what they look like but the .156 molex is a bit too big. Thanks.

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#10062 51 days ago

man I just noticed that this plastic on the right has a big hole for the flasher wiring, and there's a second flasher, on a pcb, directly through it from my perspective. Anytime that red dome flashes (lower right), this flasher under the plastic also flashes, and i stand at just the right angle to see it exposed.

Anyone notice/get bothered by this enough to cover it or desolder it? Haven't taken a closer look yet, but it's gotta go.

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#10063 51 days ago
Quoted from captainmuddflap:

On MMR opto connection. What size terminal clips do I need? Picture is what they look like but the .156 molex is a bit too big. Thanks.
[quoted image]

Hard to tell, but it’s either .100 or .156. Since you say .156 is too big, then it’s .100.

#10064 51 days ago

It showed up today early. Gave it a cleaning, wax and new balls. Fired it up to test it out, everything seems to be working good. Came with a shaker motor too.

Only downside is the owner said it had less than 650 plays. Audits show it has over 3600. Not sure if that was a typo or not. But there is very little wear other than tons of dimples. Flippers might need a rebuild as the feel a little sloppy.

My left troll does touch the bottom of the habitrail, not sure if that’s normal or not.

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#10065 51 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

Only downside is the owner said it had less than 650 plays. Audits show it has over 3600

congrats on the aquisition!
My troll does that too.

fyi you can reset plays on this easily, so the audits is just 'has this many plays since last reset'. can only go by condition.

#10066 51 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

congrats on the aquisition!
My troll does that too.
fyi you can reset plays on this easily, so the audits is just 'has this many plays since last reset'. can only go by condition.

I’m aware and the condition is great. Dimples is the only problem. Which isn’t really much of one. But was hoping it was more fresh. I’m definitely happy with it.

#10067 50 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Are the welds on the carriage popped? Mine broke and when it started it looked like this and then they fully gave out.

Thanks for the info - welds look good, seems like there is just a lot of 'slop' in the mechanism. It's not clear which areas to look at to tighten it back up, it's either rivets or welds, and the rest of the screws that can be adjusted are all pretty tight.

#10068 48 days ago

My MMR left flipper isn’t holding. When I hold the flipper button it fires twice but doesn’t stay up. I run Test T.12 04 (L. FLIP.HOLD) and nothing happens. What should I do next?

I appreciate any help. Please explain it like I’m about 12 years old and kinda stupid. Thanks!

#10069 48 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

My MMR left flipper isn’t holding. When I hold the flipper button it fires twice but doesn’t stay up. I run Test T.12 04 (L. FLIP.HOLD) and nothing happens. What should I do next?
I appreciate any help. Please explain it like I’m about 12 years old and kinda stupid. Thanks!

Look for a loose wire to the coil.
Sounds like the hold side of the coil may be off.
Flippers have 2 windings in the one coil. A high voltage snappy side for flipping and a low voltage side for holding the flipper up when the flipper reaches the end of stroke.

#10070 48 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

I run Test T.12 04 (L. FLIP.HOLD) and nothing happens. What should I do next?

Hold flipper up. Then run the test.

Quoted from haveaniceswim:

I appreciate any help.

Carefully go over the coil lugs. Wires to them. Thin wires coming off the coil windings and going to the lugs ( you might have to dig around them to find a crack or break ). Check for cold solder joints too.

LTG : )

#10071 47 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

man I just noticed that this plastic on the right has a big hole for the flasher wiring, and there's a second flasher, on a pcb, directly through it from my perspective. Anytime that red dome flashes (lower right), this flasher under the plastic also flashes, and i stand at just the right angle to see it exposed.
Anyone notice/get bothered by this enough to cover it or desolder it? Haven't taken a closer look yet, but it's gotta go.
[quoted image][quoted image]

So I see they were trying to have a flasher under the explosion artwork but the hole in the plastic unfortunately ruins it with the direct line from eyeballs to smd.

If I ruined this for anyone else, I figured the most easily reversible solution is to flip the board around.

It's the little things ...

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#10072 47 days ago
Quoted from ktm450:

Look for a loose wire to the coil.

Quoted from LTG:

Carefully go over the coil lugs. Wires to them. Thin wires coming off the coil windings and going to the lugs ( you might have to dig around them to find a crack or break ). Check for cold solder joints too.
LTG : )

Thanks for the quick reply guys. Unfortunately, I'm not finding any problems with the wires or coil. Should I assume there is a problem with the coil and just buy and install a new one? When you do that, do you solder fresh wires to the coil lugs and splice to the existing wires, or do you desolder the existing wires and then solder them onto the new coil's lugs?

Thanks again for your help!

#10073 47 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

I 3d printed a texture roller, and then rolled it onto modelling clay, and then cut the clay to fit the tower. Honestly it was a huge pain in the ass. In hindsight, I'd find some STL with wood plank texture, maybe a miniatures base or something, stamp it out a few times if its not big enough, edit it in cad to get the right scale and make it a thin disc, put the trap door on top, and then export it as a STL ready to go.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/free-tile-and-wooden-planks-texture-rollers
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-trapdoor-195936

Oh man that is exactly the type of thing that I've been wanting and posted about awhile back. Too bad it sounds like a huge pita or I'd BEG you to sell it as a mod. It's times like these I wish I had a 3D printer to make something like this, but I don't think I could justify owning one for how little I'd actually end up using it. Also, I'm not savvy at all with working with 3D models. I was having a hard enough time just trying to come up with something in photoshop that I could just print out on paper and affix to the castle, but got sidetracked and put on the backburner for now. Maybe somebody with time and talent will wise up and realize they could probably sell a ton of those.

#10074 47 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Should I assume there is a problem with the coil

No. Do this first.

Find the driver board that flipper coil goes to. You don't have to remove the connectors. Remove the screws. Unplug that driver board from the huge board it plugs into. Then plug it back in, pressing on the nubs of the ten pins sticking up through the circuit board that are the tops of the pins going into socket on the big board.

People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.

Then see if it works.

If not I'd do a new coil, unsolder the wires from the old coil and solder on the new coil. One at a time to get them in the right spots.

LTG : )

#10075 47 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

No. Do this first.
Find the driver board that flipper coil goes to.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away )

Thanks again Lloyd. I’ve got a game manufactured in 2020. The solenoid power board is in the backbox, not on the huge playfield board. The plug J119 is plugged in firm. Is there any chance the problem resides there?

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#10076 47 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Is there any chance the problem resides there?

No.

Back to the wiring at the coil or the coil.

LTG : )

#10077 47 days ago

This may have been brought up before but any info would be great! Everything but my Grand Champion score and Kings of the Realm have been reset to factory. Rest of high scores, Castle, joust, catapult, peasant, damsel, troll and madness champions are reset! Any idea why those 2 things are still saved and the rest reset? Can the rest be recovered?

#10078 47 days ago
Quoted from Blackstorm:

This may have been brought up before but any info would be great! Everything but my Grand Champion score and Kings of the Realm have been reset to factory. Rest of high scores, Castle, joust, catapult, peasant, damsel, troll and madness champions are reset! Any idea why those 2 things are still saved and the rest reset? Can the rest be recovered?

Did you check settings in A.4 09 HIGH SCORE RESET EVERY?

Is it disabled/off?

Also check the other high score settings in the A.4 section to make sure they are how you want them.

Hopefully it is as simple as that.

#10079 47 days ago
Quoted from Oaken:

Did you check settings in A.4 09 HIGH SCORE RESET EVERY?
Is it disabled/off?
Also check the other high score settings in the A.4 section to make sure they are how you want them.
Hopefully it is as simple as that.

I was gonna ask about a setting like this, stern had it on their older games too, so every x plays it resets the xyz score. Which can be very confusing lol

#10080 46 days ago

So inspired by sorokyl I cut and stained a piece of veneer I had. I thought about useing the draw bridge decals either on the wood or directly on the castle. But ended up useing a fine tip sharpie. The trap doors are more veneer and the metal straps are stainless wire hammered flat and hit with a spring loaded punch. Just an interference fit. Not as good as above, but it was free.

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#10081 46 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

So inspired by sorokyl I cut and stained a piece of veneer I had. I thought about useing the draw bridge decals either on the wood or directly on the castle. But ended up useing a fine tip sharpie. The trap doors are more veneer and the metal straps are stainless wire hammered flat and hit with a spring loaded punch. Just an interference fit. Not as good as above, but it was free.
[quoted image][quoted image]

nice!

#10082 44 days ago

Finished my MMR. Have had the glass off 3 weeks working on it so I hope you'll indulge a bit of a victory lap

List of changes:

Painted castle
Sculpted/painted wooden plank castle tower tops
Windows cut out and lit
Skull eyes on castle cut out and leds inserted, tied to moat flasher.
(I intended to have the skull eyes dimly lit with GI, and flash brightly with flasher. but I mistakenly designed it assuming the flasher switched +V and not -V, so i settled for just flashing off-on)
Painted dragon
Mirror blades
Yellow rubbers
Removed a lot of "anti-ball" clear plastic for a cleaner look.

Other Lighting:
8 of my mini spotlights (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-modern-minimal-spotlight-fixture-):
4 on slings
1 on left at catapult
1 on right pointing at dragon
2 replace the spots on the castle towers, with brighter but still yellow/orange light.
Warm white led strip GI in the moat shining on castle
Warm white led strip in trough
Purple LED strip GI above the backboard, all the way back
Blue LED strip a few inches in front of that connected to flasher
Bulb behind Merlin
Bulb behind Catapult

The playfield was so bright I had to turn the spotlights down to 4.2V (godzilla for comparison when i had it at 5V)

Didn't really want to add sculpts, but wanted to make it "mine" and make it the best I could without adding stuff.
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#10083 44 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Finished my MMR. Have had the glass off 3 weeks working on it so I hope you'll indulge a bit of a victory lap
List of changes:
Painted castle
Sculpted/painted wooden plank castle tower tops
Windows cut out and lit
Skull eyes on castle cut out and leds inserted, tied to moat flasher.
(I intended to have the skull eyes dimly lit with GI, and flash brightly with flasher. but I mistakenly designed it assuming the flasher switched +V and not -V, so i settled for just flashing off-on)
Painted dragon
Mirror blades
Yellow rubbers
Removed a lot of "anti-ball" clear plastic for a cleaner look.
Other Lighting:
8 of my mini spotlights (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-modern-minimal-spotlight-fixture-):
4 on slings
1 on left at catapult
1 on right pointing at dragon
2 replace the spots on the castle towers, with brighter but still yellow/orange light.
Warm white led strip GI in the moat shining on castle
Warm white led strip in trough
Purple LED strip GI above the backboard, all the way back
Blue LED strip a few inches in front of that connected to flasher
Bulb behind Merlin
Bulb behind Catapult
The playfield was so bright I had to turn the spotlights down to 4.2V (godzilla for comparison when i had it at 5V)
Didn't really want to add sculpts, but wanted to make it "mine" and make it the best I could without adding stuff.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nicely done.

I added a panel above the gate yesterday but I’m not sure about it as you can see the edge. You painted yours? I may have to paint mine. Might just have to glue a ring and hinges on.

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#10084 44 days ago

Has anyone changed their 3.5 inch speakers? Mine are Pyle and the voices are hard to hear. Every search I’ve done talks about 5 1/4 inch speakers and the kit on markos is 4 inch.

Thinking these…. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X3C/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-X3C.html

They are 4 ohm with 120 watt max like the pyles.

#10085 44 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

Has anyone changed their 3.5 inch speakers? Mine are Pyle and the voices are hard to hear. Every search I’ve done talks about 5 1/4 inch speakers and the kit on markos is 4 inch.
Thinking these…. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113X3C/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-X3C.html
They are 4 ohm with 120 watt max like the pyles.

I changed mine to some alpines recommended in the DIY audio thread. They are 5 1/4” as I only have the standard size display. If you have the XL display you need 4” speakers and I don’t have a recommendation for those.

#10086 44 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

I changed mine to some alpines recommended in the DIY audio thread. They are 5 1/4” as I only have the standard size display. If you have the XL display you need 4” speakers and I don’t have a recommendation for those.

That’s where I’m confused, I do have the xl display, my speakers are the same size as my CCr and measure and are labeled as 3.5”. Will the 4” be to big? I know you don’t have the answers but am hoping someone does. Or I guess in a day or two I’ll just have to order the ones I listed and test them out.

#10087 44 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

That’s where I’m confused, I do have the xl display, my speakers are the same size as my CCr and measure and are labeled as 3.5”. Will the 4” be to big? I know you don’t have the answers but am hoping someone does. Or I guess in a day or two I’ll just have to order the ones I listed and test them out.

Better speakers may help marginally, but the issue is in software. If you compare the callout sound files with all the other sounds, they are drastically lower in volume. I've modified my own firmware to increase the gain on these callouts and it's much better.

#10088 44 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Better speakers may help marginally, but the issue is in software. If you compare the callout sound files with all the other sounds, they are drastically lower in volume. I've modified my own firmware to increase the gain on these callouts and it's much better.

Unfortunately that’s not in my wheelhouse. I was just comparing it with my ears and ya the music and sounds are way louder. I suppose I’ll have to settle with marginally better. In the thread where people upgraded the 5.25 speakers they really hyped it up. So I’m hopeful.

#10089 44 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

Very nicely done.
I added a panel above the gate yesterday but I’m not sure about it as you can see the edge. You painted yours? I may have to paint mine. Might just have to glue a ring and hinges on.[quoted image]

Yep I just painted mine. Just shade/wash and dry brush. Not painting each plank. It's not easy to paint. You can take that part of the castle out pretty easily if you do want to paint it. There's not much detail especially on the ring/hinge but I was mostly just trying to get the color to match

#10090 43 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

No.
Back to the wiring at the coil or the coil.
LTG : )

Unable to find any problems with the wiring, I ordered a new coil. The new coil has diodes, the original coil does not. Is it OK to install the new coil as is?

#10091 43 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Unable to find any problems with the wiring, I ordered a new coil. The new coil has diodes, the original coil does not. Is it OK to install the new coil as is?

The manual with schematics should tell you, otherwise LTG it no one responds by the time I get home I can also look

#10092 42 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Unable to find any problems with the wiring, I ordered a new coil. The new coil has diodes, the original coil does not. Is it OK to install the new coil as is?

Cut the diodes out.

#10093 42 days ago

Thanks!

#10094 42 days ago
Quoted from haveaniceswim:

Is it OK to install the new coil as is?

No. Get the diodes out of there.

LTG : )

#10095 41 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Broken wires or poor solder joints on the coil. Especially the thin wires from coil windings to coil lugs. You might have to dig around to see a break or crack.
All good ? Then go to the driver board it is connected to. No need to remove the connectors. Remove the screws and unplug it from the big board. Then plug it back into the big board, push along the tops of the ten pins going into the big board. Replace the screws.
People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.
LTG : )

Got my parts in and will fix game this week....If I replace the coil for the gate I notice it has 3 lugs. Do I just match up wire to wire? or does the order matter? Never replaced a 3 lug coil. I know on 2 lugs coils on older pins there is a diode and you need to make sure power wire and signal wire orient with the diode band. Thx

#10096 40 days ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I notice it has 3 lugs. Do I just match up wire to wire?

Yes.

Quoted from billsfanmd:

or does the order matter?

It matters. If you want it to work.

LTG : )

#10097 39 days ago

So I was rebuilding my flippers today. And I saw this chip on The bottom of the playfield. I remembered I have a similar one in the coin box. when I originally got the game a couple weeks ago I figured it was from the xl display install. But now seeing the Bally sticker on the installed one and some other googling I’m not so sure. What could it be for? Is there anyway to know? Possibly RGB gi? I don’t have any of the other stuff though. I’m mostly just curious.

I also found this wire in the box, any ideas? Maybe just felt over from some mod.

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#10098 39 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

So I was rebuilding my flippers today. And I saw this chip on The bottom of the playfield. I remembered I have a similar one in the coin box. when I originally got the game a couple weeks ago I figured it was from the xl display install. But now seeing the Bally sticker on the installed one and some other googling I’m not so sure. What could it be for? Is there anyway to know? Possibly RGB gi? I don’t have any of the other stuff though. I’m mostly just curious.
I also found this wire in the box, any ideas? Maybe just felt over from some mod.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The chip you have installed enables the improved colored dots on the display. The chip in the coin box is likely the one that came with the machine. It's not needed.

#10099 39 days ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

The chip you have installed enables the improved colored dots on the display. The chip in the coin box is likely the one that came with the machine. It's not needed.

Thanks! I figured as much. Shame I have trouble throwing stuff out. It’ll just live in the coin box for all eternity.

#10100 39 days ago

Got posted by Thorn-in-pinball in the OG MM thread but should be here

We are gauging interest in MMR RGB kits and XL Display kits. XL display kits will be available for all models with the small display. feel free to email [email protected] to get on a list. We are ordering parts now and since these have not been offered in quite some time, we want to make sure all who want them can get them.

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