Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
Medieval Madness (Remake - Classic Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
Medieval Madness (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015
Medieval Madness (Remake - Royal Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
Medieval Madness (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2019
Medieval Madness (Remake - Standard)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2015You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ltg.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from johngravenews:Any MMR owners actually regret getting one now that it's in the house?
Bear in mind I am directly involved with PPS/CGC.
I have one at my business for tech support. Along with an original MM.
PPS/CGC/Stern knocked it out of the park, bases loaded. From a commercial stand point, the cash box, it's put a serious dent in the original MM here.
LTG : )
Quoted from Drew13:Does a instruction card and price card come with MMr?
Has a good looking Royal Rules card on the left side, and Medieval Madness and design credits on the right side.
Make your own price card.
LTG : )
Quoted from Craig:I am getting genuinely depressed about the MMR situation.
I am sorry for the delay. Games are moving again. And hopefully up to speed soon so people get their games.
LTG : )
Quoted from PhasersOnKill:Thoughts?
First try adjusting the power the coil uses to kick the ball out. Weaker first, then stronger.
If that doesn't do it, please PM me for more help.
LTG : )
Quoted from cleland:I wonder what the credit dot is though
Target up past the catapult. Since a lot of non pinball people tried it, that error comes up a lot as it isn't an easy shot.
I was there and checked it often.
LTG : )
Quoted from tu71586:have not found how to disable to knocker
There isn't an adjustment for it. As steve-o said - disconnect it.
LTG : )
Quoted from tdiddy:how to resolve it
You might have to bend the bracket holding the gate up a tiny bit.
LTG : )
Quoted from Eryeal:My drawbridge has gone crazy
Go into Tests - find the drawbridge test. Run it. See if the two switches for it are working in that test.
LTG : )
Quoted from HOOKED:Any word on the full color DMD yet?
At Expo CGC was hoping before the end of the year. They showed it there 90% done. It looked amazing.
LTG : )
Quoted from Lowrent:Do you have any idea what I could do to adjust the opto switch ?
Your description sounds like it is working.
Is the ball not sitting in there right to break the opto beam ?
LTG : )
Quoted from extraballingtmc:was hoping to hear others experiences first.
No matter what game or manufacturer, they can all have differences.
If you don't have a little space between the sidewall and playfield, mirror blades won't fit.
LTG : )™
Quoted from Rat:no warranty registration card either.
Download it here :
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/CGC_Warranty_Card_Pinball.pdf
LTG : )
Quoted from PWhiz:How can I secure this pin better?
Please open a ticket on the Support desk to get a new plunger assembly.
LTG : )
Quoted from PWhiz:Has an update been released?
CGC posted in one of these threads today it is in beta testing and should be out in February.
LTG : )
Quoted from PWhiz:Link?
Go to Community - search Pinsiders - CGC - only two there, one posted today.
LTG : )™
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:is there a way to adjust that or is it waste of time?
Those cheap bubbles can be a headache.
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html
LTG : )™
Quoted from sparechange1974:Does the game come come with clear plastic protection over that area or is it clear coat?
Clear coat. I'd put the Mantis protector on there.
LTG : )
Quoted from mrgregb123:On mine the hole the ball falls into after entering the castle has clear coat chips at the back end...the side that the ball rarely reaches...after 200 plays. Defect in mfg.
I don't think it's a manufacturing defect. The balls goes across and rolls over the edge.
Remember when Larry Demar and another video taped the kickout hole on Monster Bash and discovered all the wear was caused by the ball going in, than coming out ?
LTG : )
Quoted from jrockne:Anyone else get the email yet!
I did not. I shall be living vicariously through you.
LTG : )
Quoted from PWhiz:Forget which carrier
There are only a few. Start with USPS Tracking, if error comes up then UPS Tracking, if error then FedEx Tracking.
Or try Google - type in Tracking and the number, see what you get.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ranhorton:My buddy who has an MMr has only gotten to play it for one day before a transistors on the board fried.
Open a ticket on the Chicago-gaming.com website to get a new one.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ranhorton:Still have a ticket open on CGC. Waiting to hear from their engineer for a few weeks now about options to repair/replace.
Please pm me the ticket number and I'll see if I can kick it up a notch or two.
LTG : )
Quoted from KloggMonkey:I forgot where this plastic goes.
On the post by the dragon pointing towards the rear, under his wing.
LTG : )
Quoted from nosro:I have observed a somewhat repeatable problem where balls returning from the left ramp hit the end of the wireform and the impact causes the ball to jump the wireform and into the outlane rather than dropping into the inlane. Is there an adjustment I should try?
Loosen the bolt holding it down and move it slightly towards the inlane.
LTG : )
Quoted from nosro:The ball is jumping out of the wireform straight into the outlane. It is not dropping into the inlane and then to the outlane. Is this still the right approach?
Could you email me a picture of that area so I can see if the wireform is bent or something ?
I'll PM you my email address.
LTG : )
Quoted from JOESCHALL:I've written to Lloyd as well about this, but I thought I'd also share this with the group to see if anyone else had the same experience.
I have one idea. QUIT TRYING. It's in there.
You hit ENTER and 1.0 comes up, Williams default.
Open coin door, hold ESCAPE button down until CGC menu comes up, 2.0.1 is in there, it will be on the screen.
Turn the game off, remove old IC and install new one, get the notch or dot in the same position. Turn game on. And enjoy.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinzap:So, my question... is this normal?
Yes. Every playfield dimples. Steel ball landing on wood.
Over time you'll have a lot more of them and they won't be so noticeable.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinzap:I'll get there eventually
And when you do. Please help others.
That keeps pinball alive and growing.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pmaino:Has anyone changed the stock black rubbers to any other color? I've heard purple looks cool. Anyone have pictures?
Here is an original in Titan silicone purple rings.
LTG : )
Quoted from Adams:Are there good instructions anywhere on how to adjust sensitivity?
It's a leaf blade switch. Two leafs. One on the troll face, one behind it. Gently tweak/bend the one behind it a tiny bit closer.
LTG : )
Quoted from Lermods:I'm told it has some special animations that arent in the stock LE game.
I think someone was having some fun with you.
LTG : )
Quoted from per3per3:The right troll head isn't secured into its mechanism properly and is basically a bobblehead right now (it registers fine which is good). How do I adjust this to tighten it?
You mean the troll face is loose ? Turn the game off, Remove balls, the game's. Lift playfield up and rest on backbox. One bolt secures the troll carriage to the plunger. Remove it, unplug the troll face switch connector. Lift the hole troll carriage up and out and wiggle to the left to clear the playfield.
Now you can get at the two screws holding the troll face to the leaf blade. Fix it, tighten it. Reassemble back into game.
LTG : )
Quoted from per3per3:but can't seem to figure out how to get it up and through the playfield. The wiggle left trick isn't working thus far because of the small black tab on the troll head housing not being able to clear
Twist, turn, lean to one side, figure it out. I've been removing them for years this way. MM and MMR.
Quoted from per3per3:you can see from the pic the assembly is now crooked
Looks like the part where the whole troll face/leaf blade switch fastens to with two screws, has broken free. You need a new troll carriage.
LTG : )
Quoted from per3per3:how do I get to it?
You'll need to get that troll carriage up and out to get at the screws holding the troll face leaf blade.
LTG : )
Quoted from tslayer71:It's easier to remove troll assembly's from the bottom of the playfield.
Take off two wire clips, take off the two springs, remove the troll flap. Then unplug two connectors and unbolt the whole assembly and drop down. And on reassembly lose the clips or springs trying to get them back on the posts on the metal flap.
Or my way, one connector and one bolt. Hmmmmmmm , my way seems easier. Though the left troll you would need to remove the wireform above it.
per3per3 didn't do what I posted and removed the wrong thing and no way he can get the troll carriage out of the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from tslayer71:Under is easier. You don't have to take anything apart until you remove the assembly.
What are your plans for the metal flap on top of the troll carriage ? It won't fit through the hole in the playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from tslayer71:Yes it will dude....... Read post six like I stated above
I yield. I've only be removing troll carriages for twenty years. What do I know.
LTG : )
Quoted from tslayer71:When someone gives you useful correct info maybe you should try it before saying it wont work....
Over the years I have tried that. And came to the conclusion that one bolt and one connector was easiest.
LTG : )
Quoted from Manic:Not sure why he can't wiggle the assembly free.
Because the troll carriage is still bolted to the plunger. I posted to remove the bolt holding the troll carriage to plunger. par3par3 removed the locknut holding the plastic switch guard on.
LTG : )
Quoted from per3per3:1) The lock isn't reliably registering and I'm not sure what optos to check
The VUK to the left of the castle moat ? Only one set of optos on it. Easy to check in Tests - Switch Edge, see if it works, and plunger isn't blocking the optos.
Quoted from per3per3:but the ball doesn't eject
A little tougher. The ball could be sticking on the plastic stone wall, or diverter isn't going low enough to allow the ball to roll. You may need to remove the ramp to get a clear look at where the ball if getting stuck.
LTG : )
Quoted from per3per3:For #1 I'm talking about the shot over the moat through the door that locks the ball. I'd say it registers about 50-60% of the time
The green moat under the playfield. Only one switch on it. Please check that it is mounted right, not loose. It's connector still plugged in. You may need to make it more sensitive. Loosen screws and move switch body so the wire the ball hits is more sensitive, or bend the wire the ball hits up a little.
Quoted from per3per3:This makes me believe it's not the divertor post
Then maybe it's sticking on the lip of the plastic damsel tower.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Are the backbox keys and the coin door keys the same?
No. Open the coin door, on a hook you should see another key, on the side of a coin chute or on the inside of the door.
LTG : )
Should be simple. Lift playfield up a little and rest on the front of the cabinet. Unscrew the two screws holding the apron on. Then gently push the apron forward and lift out.
Just a screw with a nut head, should just unscrew.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Could it be some sort of ground or connection issue?
No - screw goes into plastic. Maybe loose connection at opto or the plug for the optos is loose at the board it plugs onto.
Quoted from Damien:So CGC is who I need to go through?
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ under Support - Help Desk, open a ticket.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:If it is something lose, how would CGC service this? I am in Canada.
Their warranty is parts, not labor.
Check with who you bought the game from, if they provide any service.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Having an issue where my left troll is not registering hits. The test shows the left switch is bad. When I go to the test mode, and I try to select it, it won't even raise it, saying something is bad about the up switch.
Troll test won't work unless you have the high power interlock switch on the left side of coin door opening enabled.
Go to Tests - Switch Edge - push troll face, either below the playfield or pull the troll carriage up and push the troll face from above. If it registers then it just needs adjusting so ball hits trigger it.
If it doesn't work, then follow wiring from troll carriage to board it plugs on to. Reseat connector at board and be sure it is on tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:And, do you think that this is what is causing the "L. Troll Up Switch Bad" error?
Left troll face hasn't been registering hits.
Quoted from Damien:Any suggestions?
Under playfield disconnect troll face switch connector and remove bolt holding troll carriage to plunger. Above the playfield remove the wireform over the left troll. Now you can pull the troll carriage up and out, lean a little left to clear the metal part sticking out that triggers the up/down switch.
Now you can get at the screws to tighten them.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Nothing I can stick in behind there just to tighten that one screw?
Thin ignition wrench ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:When leveling the machine,
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/iphone2/index.html
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html
Todd Andersen's articles may help.
LTG : )
Quoted from busa32927:hi all
could someone tell me how to get to the features menu. I want to adjust my flipper coil strength.
thanks
Game turned on. Open coin door. Hold the ESCAPE diagnostic button 5 seconds or more gets you into the CGC menu.
LTG : )
Quoted from busa32927:I call Chicago gaming they suggested some washers under the hole.
Between playfield and whole assembly under the playfield, left side. ( that was me you talked to )
LTG : )
Quoted from mountaingamer:Has anyone else had the castle towers work their way off?
Can happen. Original or remake.
Quoted from mountaingamer:Has anyone else had the castle towers work their way off?
I have on original.
Quoted from mountaingamer:i assume superglue or epoxy will keep them from falling off
I've used both.
Quoted from mountaingamer:I'm just afraid they might need to come apart later.
No. If you ever have to replace a base, it would be pretty easy to cut/file/Dremel the old one off without hurting the tower.
LTG : )
Quoted from bkaelin:Here is what I got.
There is an ethernet cable running along the side of the huge board below the playfield and plugs into the bottom of it. Please unplug it and plug it back in and push real tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I put all 10 Pinbits plastic protectors on my MMR. Has anyone noticed or determined why the plastic is missing (left side of castle shot where the yellow troll counter switch is) from MMR that was on MM? Pinbits has a protector for it but its just bare metal no plastic. Will an MM plastic fit here? Not sure why PPS\CGC left this off the MMR...
Wasn't on MM either. Some people made a plastic for that spot over the stainless steel guide, some even figured a way to light it. So Pinbits made a protector for it.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:but it still takes many tries for the kickout to get the ball out.
Under the playfield. Left side of the whole assembly. Put a couple washers between playfield and assembly. Ball will kick out much better.
LTG : )
Quoted from dzoomer:In early playing the main adjustment needed on this MMR is that the moat VUK is working maybe 40% of the time. When it doesn't work the machine does a ball search which kicks it out.
If ball search kicks it out, coil is fine. I'd concentrate on the opto switch in there. Clean them, follow the wires, the optos should plug into a board nearby, reseat that a couple time.
LTG : )
Quoted from Animal:Yes, did switch test, the switch registers. any other idea's why the VUK doesnt work when dormant for a while, but then after ball search it starts working??
If it's the optos acting up, please follow the wires from them to a board nearby they plug onto. Reseat the connector a couple times.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Yes, please post a pic
I didn't have a tooth pick so I used a bamboo skewer, you get the idea.
Quoted from Damien:how to loosen and tighten it properly
I like to loosen the nut on the pawl just slightly so the flipper bat turns real hard. Then position the flipper bat where I want it. Then tighten the bolt.
If you loosen the nut a lot, then you get to mess with up and down adjustment and back and forth flipper bat adjustment. That is a learning experience.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:what the nut on the panel
I hope you realize this is below the playfield. The flipper shaft goes through the big hole in the pawl, below my red circle.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:So just loosen that, adjust flipper, and tighten?
Yes, but save yourself more work. Only loosen a tiny bit so the flipper bat moves if you push/pull it hard. If you loosen it too much and the flipper bat flops around, then you need to adjust the back and forth there you want it, and the up and down movement. If you screw it up, use the blue plastic spacer from the goodie bag, set it between the flipper bat and playfield, that will give you the right spacing so there is a tiny bit of up and down play so the pawl doesn't bind on the nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in, below the playfield.
Quoted from Damien:Also, when I loosen this nut, will the flipper also rise up from the playfield?
If you loosen too much, gravity is down, not up.
Quoted from Damien:After doing the alignment, should I push down on the flipper while tightening?
No.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Wouldn't it be easier to align the toothpick in the hole
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Study vid1900's guide, scroll down to the 17th post in that thread.
LTG : )
Quoted from bdaley6509:Is that a spring issue?
Wiggle them. If they move freely, probably a spring issue. Four screws hold the tower assembly on. Simple to remove and check or fix.
LTG : )
Quoted from AUKraut:Built at Chicago Gaming and not sub'd out to Stern???
Yes. It's been posted and announced. Chicago Gaming built their own assembly line for this.
LTG : )
Quoted from CubeSnake:Does MMr have an 'Adult Speech Mode' and how is it accessed?
In Adjustments - Feature Adj. - A2. 22 Family Mode , default is No.
Now the F Word is still bleeped in No. Unlike the hacked ROM floating around out there, which isn't usable in MMR.
LTG : )
Quoted from holmstarrunner:Any ideas where to start?
You probably hurt how they are powered. The LED strip may have been too much of a strain on things.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Do you have your kits listed anywhere that we can check out? Interested in your moat kit.
http://www.rockcustompinball.com/
LTG : )
Quoted from NeilMcRae:is there an actual fix for the date/time credit dot?
http://chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php
Yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from AUKraut:Mine is at an angle of about 45 degrees
It got bent, or if up a little too high the auto launch plunger hit it. If up a little, balls coming up to the shooter lane can nail it too.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:or is this the sign that thee is binding or something else?
I'd suspect binding first. Coil stop screws in tight ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Is that how it's supposed to be?
It's okay, somebody went to town to tighten the pawl to the flipper shaft.
Do you have a tiny bit of up and down play on the flipper bat so the pawl isn't binding under the playfield to the nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in ?
The rubber insulator on the pawl that closes the EOS leaf blades - is it worn ? Look at it carefully and push the flipper bat up and see if it catches on the EOS leaf blade.
The front coil bracket in your picture, the top by the coil lugs is leaning towards the flipper shaft a little, I'd bend that back a little and be sure the coil stop is straight up and down. When they lean in or out, weird things can happen with the plunger movement.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Here a little video showing the play:
Up and down play is good.
Have you remove the plunger assembly to see if the pawl-plastic link- plunger , moves freely or is binding.
Quoted from Damien:Can you be a bit more specific about the coil stop. You're referring to the end with the lugs? The thick L shaped bracket? Do I pull it off and bend that? Not even sure what tool I'd need as it's pretty thick.
Look from the wire to the coil lug, see the gap between the metal L bracket near the lugs and as it goes towards the flipper base
plate and playfield, no gap ?
Easy to remove the coil stop, slide the coil off and leave hanging by the wires, take a pliers and gently bend the end of the L bracket back a bit.
LTG : )
Quoted from TaylorVA:so I'm pretty sure I would already be running that.
Easy to check. With game turned on, open coin door, hold down the escape button until the CGC menu comes up. First page has what software version is in your game.
LTG : )
Quoted from TaylorVA:The code on CGCs site is apparently the older code. I got a copy of 2.0.2 which is suppose to fix the date/time bug.
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php 2.0.2 is on their site. Try refreshing your browser, maybe you have an old link ?
LTG : )
Quoted from TaylorVA:This is what is shows for me in the Mac directions
I'll let them know they missed one. Thank you for pointing it out.
LTG : )
Quoted from TaylorVA:This is what is shows for me in the Mac directions
Anybody that runs into this, use the correct link http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr/update2.0.2. for download, works for PC or MAC. Follow instructions for which ever one you are using to open and put on a micro sd card.
LTG : )
Quoted from GotAQuestion:Are they going out of production though?
Not soon at any rate. CGC is going to make 500 AFMR's and then make 500 more standard MMR's and then back to AFMR's.
LTG : )
Quoted from billrz:But it's in the audits somewhere. I just can't find it . Please ?
I'd check resets in Utilities.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Is there a way to adjust the strength of the slingshots?
Settings - Coils.
Quoted from Damien:And, will turning the shooter strength to light reduce the wear in the shooter lane?
Some, but be sure the ball gets to the lane.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:I'm assuming this is in the CGC menu? I don't see a "coil" setting... Is it solenoid?
CGC Menu - 3rd page. Trough
I'm sorry, there isn't one for slingshots. My mistake.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Does the trough setting alter the strength of slingshot, or something else?
Ball trough up to shooter lane only.
Can't adjust slingshots on MMR, I made a mistake.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Was this in the owner's manual?
Download the MM manual from IPDB and see if it's in there.
Quoted from Damien:And one last thing... Updated to 2.0.2 today and first game the sound was interrupted by this horrible crackling.
Is it okay now ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Is this a known issue?
Not a recent one.
Please open a ticket on the CGC Support desk.
LTG : )
Quoted from TKDalumni:CGC menu?
CGC Menu. It's in the manual. Game turned on, open coin door. Hold Escape Button down five seconds or so and you go into the CGC menu. Once there. Every time you push the Escape button, you advance through the CGC screens, until you go back to attract mode.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kkuoppamaki:I'm suspecting the ball through opto board but haven't had a chance to look into it yet.
Power off. I'd reseat the connectors to the ball trough opto boards a couple times and be sure they are on tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from Strummy:My mmr seems to tilt easier than any other machine I've played. I have the tilt bob adjusted as low as it can go but it still tilts with the slightest movement.
My original MM is like that.
I disconnected the tilt. As long as people don't abuse it, I leave it off.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Can anyone tell me the part # for the slingshot switches? I can find the kicker in the manual, but not the 4 switches.
With bracket :
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=614
Without bracket
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=617
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:You need a "kicker" and "score" switch on each slingshot right?
Quoted from Damien:You need a "kicker" and "score" switch on each slingshot right?
Not on MMR. No diode on the switch. So you don't need the third lug.
You just need the above. Four of them, two each side. Up to you if you want with bracket or not. Without the bracket you'll need to reuse your old brackets. Cut off rivet, and reattach type stuff.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:When you put the flipper shaft through the crank, and put it in place, it moves as you tighten the pawl.
Tighten so it barely moves, line it up where you want it, then tighten it more.
Quoted from Damien:but what space should you have between the bushing and the crank?
Thickness of a business card.
Quoted from Damien:So should it be flush with the bushing, or should there be space?
Tiny space.
Quoted from Damien:But now it feels like there is glue under the flipper button, and it's just not as smoother as the other one.
Remove from the machine. Spray it with 409, Windex, or something. Work it some, then rinse with hot water, dry, and put back in the machine.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Any ideas?
Loosen the locknut holding it by the slingshot. Move the wireform guide left or right as needed. Retighten.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Wireform?? Isn't it the guide that I need to adjust.
Sorry, I thought you were talking about the ball coming down the wireform and hitting the slingshot plastic on the way down.
If it's the lane guide, then yes you'd need to adjust that.
LTG : )
Quoted from SuperPinball:I noticed a credit dot today and tried to use the service switches to see what is up but the service switches don't work, all 4 of them.
Please check them for broken wires, lugs on switches shorting to metal, and make sure the connectors inside are pushed together tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from Vino:1. Lockdown bar is slightly annoying as it has a more give and shake than my other B/W games or any Stern of his lock type. Did anyone have good results adding more foam backing to it?
Just like B/W, two brass screws on top of the lockdown bar receiver allow you to adjust it tighter or looser.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Would love to see photos, and hear what is involved in the replacement/install.
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:I was referring to this: http://www.pinwize.com/medieval_madness_castle_mod.php
No idea if this will work in MMR.
LTG : )
Quoted from Marcdaddy:So I'm looking for a Coil Bracket.
Here is a flipper base plate minus the coil. The coil stop to check is circled in red with an arrow pointing to it.
This one only has one screw holding it on, yours should have two.
LTG : )
Quoted from Blackstorm:Does anyone know where these would have come off of on my MMR?
Might be extras dropped in the game during manufacturing. Hang onto them. Just in case.
LTG : )
Quoted from gunstarhero:Check your Trolls. They like to shed pieces.
Neither of those are pieces from the troll assemblies.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:That screw is a wood screw not a machine screw. so not on the troll assembly, but could be where the bracket screws to the playfield underside.
Too small.
LTG : )
Quoted from gjm7777:What happens if something breaks or an LED goes out?
You fix it.
Same as 20+ year old games.
LTG : )
Quoted from winslow:Any recommendations for centering up the castle better with the drawbridge?
Loosen screws holding castle front, slide castle front over a little. Tighten screws.
LTG : )
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Is that normal for CGC?
Yes.
Small plastic is your spacer to adjust flipper height.
LTG : )
Quoted from brainmegaphone:What is the metal thing on the bottom of the moat? Is that also an opto?
Bracket holding a micro mini switch. No opto on the moat.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I have a busted troll head. I bought my MMR Standard in Jan 2017. Anyone know if this is a warranteed item? I am ordering it from Planetary Pinball.
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/CGC_Warranty_Card_Pinball.pdf
Out of warranty.
LTG : )
Quoted from Lord_of_the_pins:Just wondering if anybody else has any issues my buddy is having with Mmr Le . All lower coils not firing , flippers , ball trough , ball eject everything tied to F1 fuse .
Check if the metal flap on the coin door is depressing the high power interlock and memory protect switch in far enough. You may have to bend the flap or the bracket the switch is mounted to so they close better.
Easy way to check is pull out the knob on the top one, high power interlock, leave coin door open, and play a game.
LTG : )
Quoted from Lord_of_the_pins:Did that happen to you guys when coin door was closed just stop working ??
No. I'm a PPS/CGC remake tech support guy and have seen a few of these.
LTG : )
Quoted from gunstarhero:Hey, do MMR's come with a manual?
Yes.
You can download one too. Scroll down :
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals.php
LTG : )
Quoted from gunstarhero:But no manual.
Please go to chicago-gaming.com and on the Support Help desk, open a ticket.
LTG : )
Quoted from Yelobird:You can open a ticket for the original owner loosing/keeping his manual and not giving it to the new owner
Yes. Put on there you'd like to buy one.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:What is the switch supposed to look like?
Leaf blade switch. Should be normally open. A ball hit closes it.
I'd go into Tests - Switch Edge - and hit it, see if the correct switch registers on the screen. You may have mixed up the up/down switch and troll face switch.
And be sure the troll head switch isn't stuck closed, or to sensitive and it triggers a hit on the way up.
LTG : )
Quoted from BigMorty:do they make a playfield protector for it? If so, where can I buy it
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-MM-PF-PROTECTOR
LTG : )
Quoted from Lermods:I don't know specifically where it came from only that it is the version from the German company. Don't know their name offhand. Seems pretty nice to me.
LTG : )
Quoted from BigMorty:LTG , how do those two protectors differ and to you recommend one over the other? Or do feel the protector is not needed or makes play worse?
I never use them, so I'm not much help on this.
I do know both companies provide excellent service.
LTG : )
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Want to confirm the knocker can't be disabled in the software?
No.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Assuming it can't is there a molex to unplug that doesn't disable the shaker too?
Just unplug the knocker from the board in the head. Follow the knocker wires.
LTG : )
Quoted from brainmegaphone:My knocker wires do not appear to go into the board in the head. They appear to go down into the cabinet.
Sorry. My mistake. Follow where they go and see if there is a connector below the playfield for it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Also, does anyone happen to know how many or for how late night CGC will be making MMRs?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cgc-pinball-production-update/page/25#post-3999642
LTG : )
Quoted from tomaszb1:test report said check switch F6 U.R. Flipper
One of the two optos on the flipper button opto board isn't working. Reseat it's connector a couple times.
Quoted from tomaszb1:none of the multiballs kick out extra balls
I'd check for anything broke off, or dirt ? in ball trough preventing balls from rolling down. I suspect since your game is new. Optos work, no divots in bottom of ball trough. I would think the balls may be magnetized.
LTG : )
Quoted from tomaszb1:Called my distributor (Phil, Arcades at Home) since I was still stumped after trying your advice and he came by and fixed it no problems next day!
Coil/plunger sticking up a little bit too high. Glad Phil could easily lower it. he called me while at your place.
LTG : )
Quoted from mamefan:I just bent the gate a little on the end trying to fix it.
I'd put a tiny drop of light oil on each end of the gate where it goes into the hole in the steel wall. And adjust the switch so a ball rolling up or down triggers it ( check in Tests - Switch Edge ) yet doesn't get stuck. You can loosen the switch and turn a little to adjust.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:and starting to notice reduced power in my flippers. A good number of shots to the ramps don't complete, and it wasn't previously doing this.
I'd grab a 5/32nds allen wrench and be sure your coil stop screws are in tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Is there a rule of thumb for the amount of games until you need to rebuild or do maintenance on flippers. Would 1600 games put enough wear?
When they lose power.
Quoted from Damien:Is it possible to purchase a set of replacement mylar?
No. CGC doesn't sell parts. I'd check if pinrestore.com mylar is thinner http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html scroll down a bit. If so buy that and cut to size/shape.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Does MMR require any mods for avoiding battery leakage?
No. The tiny board in the head has one of the round batteries. Not known to leak. And last a long time.
LTG : )
Quoted from mamefan:Any ideas?
Micro switch under the moat. Follow wires and reseat connector a couple times. Be sure it is on tight. May need adjusting.
LTG : )
Quoted from paynemic:Any suggestions?
Please check if it goes up and down by hand smoothly. If not, you'll need to figure where it is binding. Maybe the collar holding the plunger to the gate ?
LTG : )
Quoted from paynemic:Is the gate and the “frame” it glides in supposed to be a metal on metal slide?
Yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from paynemic:I wonder if anyone could point me to some disassembly instructions for getting down to the point I can clean the gate and the channels it slides in?
The coil/bracket for the gate - you can gently push or pull and see if it improves.
No real instructions. Castle front off, metal floor of castle off. From underside of playfield remove gate draw bridge assembly.
LTG : )
Quoted from mamefan:Thanks. Do you mean this thing? Not sure what to do.
Yes. Follow the wires and in plugs onto a board nearby. Unplug and replug a couple times, be sure it is on tight. Then you can check in Tests - Switch Edge, with a ball tossed into the left side of the castle.
LTG : )
Quoted from dzoomer:No. It's the switch attached to the moat VUK (on the left side of the playfield, and moat).
His ejects okay, the moat switch isn't doing anything.
LTG : )
Quoted from arcademojo:nyone have an idea where they are from.
Might be extras from when it was built. Save them. Anything comes apart, they might go there.
LTG : )
Quoted from Concretehardt:Where do you order the Mantis protectors from? Can you post a link
LTG : )
Quoted from Rat:Will be interesting to see what they come back with as to me it seems to be a design flaw, I would prefer the shaft to have a spline, but they won't be able to supply that.
Quoted from pintechev:I believe the part is unchanged from the original design. Let us know what you find out from CGC.
This.
LTG : )
Quoted from Rat:I image MANY original MM games have had this part fail over the years
I have a MM since it came out and never had an issue with this.Or recall anyone else having an issue with it.
Quoted from Rat:it's just the lack of acceptance of any fault by CGC in this case is frustrating
You are kidding, right. They never heard of anyone having an issue with it. You did. Wayne ? will give you a new part.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hdmike444:About how long does it take to install the color upgrade
It’s been about 8 minutes and nothing has come up on the screen
Also where does the large chip go? It is not on the directions
Does your game need it ? I'd go into the CGC menu and the first screen has what version number is in your game. If it's the current 2.0.2a you don't need to update it.
The large chip goes into the huge board under the playfield. Remove the one that is there. Stick in the new one. Get it facing the right direction, go by the notch on the chip, not the label.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hdmike444:So it will say no signal upon startup but I have zero picture on the DMD
What you tried to install may have been corrupted.
I'd down load again, format memory card. Use 7z and put it back on the micro sd card and start over.
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/mmr_update.php
LTG : )
Quoted from Hdmike444:Can someone post a pic of the inside of the cab where the power comes in
The black and white and white and black wires that come out of there came disconnected and I don’t know which one goes on which side
Tough to get a picture. Black on left, white on right, green below both.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hdmike444:I still have no DMD hoping to hear from distributor tomorrow
Please reseat connector from display to small board in the head. And push in real tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:My drawbridge is not sitting flush with the pf. How do I adjust this?
Linkage below the playfield has a metal arm/collar with an allen head set screw. Loosen it to adjust higher or lower.
LTG : )
Quoted from paynemic:Finally, would a little lube in the gate channel be the worst thing ever?
I'd try it. Can't hurt, you can always clean it out.
Quoted from paynemic:Is there a setting to strengthen that coil perhaps?
No.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I am seeing some of this on my game...
Warranty card from CGC's website http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/CGC_Warranty_Card_Pinball.pdf this is on the same page as Manuals.
12 months on some of the electrical stuff, 6 months on some of the parts. Read it over.
LTG : )
Quoted from BigMorty:1. I received the two parts in the below image with my NIB MMr, anyone know what they are?
Plastic flipper spacer to help get proper spacing of flipper bat so pawl doesn't bind below the playfield. Cover for plug into back of cabinet.
Quoted from BigMorty:2. Along with a micro SD card with 2.0.1 software I received a ROM and ROM puller, am I supposed to replace a ROM? Which one and why?
Before updating your game, see if you need to. Hold down the escape button for five seconds or more to go into the CGC menu, the first page has what version is in your game. That long ROM, exchange it for the one plugged into a socket on the huge board under the playfield. Don't go by label, get the notch on the right end.
LTG : )
Quoted from BigMorty:I am curious what is on the ROM that I need to replace
That is what changes the screen to the color upgrade.
Quoted from BigMorty:if it might solve an issue I am having?
No, just enables color update.
Quoted from BigMorty:The issue is that when the ball goes in Merlins hole, it often does not eject out, it doesn't even try to pop the ball out even though the machine makes the sound like it is trying. Sometimes the ball ejects after 3-5 attempts (based on the sound, no movement), but often the machine has to go into ball search to kick it out. This happens more than 50% of the time and seriously slows the game down.
If the ball isn't sitting the whole way to the left, it may not kick out. That kickout by design is weak. If that is going on, under the playfield I'd loosen the bracket and stick a washer between the bracket and playfield on the left side, lowering it a little so the ball sits in there better and kicks out better. Issue common to MM and MMR.
LTG : )
Quoted from BigMorty:Do you think the washer trick will solve this?
By the looks of it yes, ball could be more to the left.
You can go into Tests - Solenoids - and pull out the high power interlock on the coin door and if it fires the solenoid every time, I'd try the washer trick.
LTG : )
Quoted from northvibe:Yeah, I asked about the swear rom before it was made and never heard a real answer from Rick, so I assumed no :/ Wish they would of put a adult mode in the code like stern.
MMR doesn't have ROMs. And PPS/CGC can't add swear words into Williams code.
LTG : )
Quoted from LFDOG:do all Switches pretty much work the same?
Yes.
Quoted from LFDOG:I'm wondering if I can just drill two new holes under the playfield and attach it?
Yes. The switch won't care.
LTG : )
Quoted from LFDOG:but it's the wrong "side".
I can't really tell in your picture. Can you remove the switch and install on the other side of the bracket ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:What is required to remove and replace the drawbridge?
Easiest is remove turrets, castle front, maybe the brick metal that goes inside the castle. Unplug connectors and motor connector below the playfield. Remove screws and drop the whole assembly. Easy to work on then. "C" clip on one side, collar with a set screw on the other.
LTG : )
Quoted from Jimmyapple:I called Cgc and they said to drill holes in the back of the game and flip the brace-
I didn't say to do it, it was a suggestion I discussed with you. You thought of making new holes in the legs.
Quoted from EricHadley:.I’d try to figure out what’s wrong and make them fix it
Not sure something is wrong. Easy to sort out. Measure legs and holes on legs. Measure cabinet and where holes are on the cabinet. Measure length of leg leveler.
Something isn't right. Just need to figure out what. Floor, legs, levelers, holes ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jimmyapple:I set it up and for the life of me I couldn’t level it in my basement.
As I recall you couldn't get it below a 7 degree pitch.
Usually 6 to 6 1/2 degree pitch is good.
What are you using to measure this ? If the plastic level inside your game mounted on the right side, maybe it's in backwards ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Jimmyapple:Ltg I’ll send you all measurements later this morning. That way you can double check. Thanks
Our measurements are the same for those following along.
In PM I'm checking what Jimmyapple's playfield pitch is.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Wondering if I should try to take it out and bend it back into position,
Easy bend/fix.
Quoted from Damien:so does anyone have any suggestions?
Under warranty, open a ticket to get a new one.
Quoted from paynemic:I wonder if this could be related my friction gate problem. I’ll have to inspect further.
Gently bend the gap in the frame open a tiny bit. Don't over do it.
LTG : )
Quoted from Smokezz:Anything I should look at for this?
Two things.
Balls magnetized and not rolling down the ball trough good. New balls. Unmagnetize them. Or this cures it too :
The plunger that kicks the ball up and out to the shooter lane. It may be a tiny bit too high, and stopping the balls from rolling into position. The plunger/coil is mounted to a bracket that is secured to the end of the ball trough. Four screws on the end can be loosened and the whole coil bracket can move up or down. Just a tiny bit. Too much or too little and it won't kick good.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Does anyone know what the warranty is for MMR LEs?
Is it two years? Is it parts and service?
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/Brochures/CGC_Warranty_Card_Pinball.pdf
MMR isn't the same as the AFMR's, where each model is different.
LTG : )
Quoted from AbeVigoda:I just had a flipper return spring break in my MMR
You can fix your spring.
LTG : )
Quoted from paynemic:Does anyone have any ideas?
The driver board that gate coil goes to, push the row of pins that plug into the huge board below it to be sure they are in tight. If that doesn't do it.
Then please open a ticket under Support - http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ so the engineer can have a look at it.
LTG : )
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:Anyone else experience this and have a fix?
Pull the key out a little so it won't turn.
LTG : )
Quoted from JJHLH:Are the Pinstadium lights difficult to install for those of us with limited technical skills?
This may help you decide :
Check out their website too - http://pinstadium.com/
LTG : )
Quoted from Utesichiban:Is this normal or does it sound like the drawbridge on my game is sticking and not operating properly?
Not normal. I'd check the pivot points above the playfield by the drawbridge, and linkage below the playfield. Something is binding.
You might run it up and down a few times in drawbridge test to see if it loosens up any.
LTG : )
Quoted from Sam40:Is there some trick to put the springs back in place and then secure with the pin thingy ?
Yes. Under playfield disconnect the troll face switch. Remove the hex head bolt holding the troll to the plunger. ( see picture ) Wiggle troll off of plunger up and out and lean to the left so part on the left side that triggers the up/down switch clears the hole in the playfield.
Then you can work on the whole troll anywhere you want and easier to not lose spring or clip.
LTG : )
Quoted from Adams:Dammit Lloyd! Now I really feel like an idiot.
Don't feel bad. How do you think I learned ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Is there a difference between update 2.0.2 and 2.0.2a?
I don't believe so. I have the latest update in my game and in the CGC menu it comes up as 2.0.2
LTG : )
Quoted from Smokezz:I'm not sure this is the issue. If I push up on the pin underneath it's pretty stiff right away. The left troll moves freely. I don't see anything up top that would be bent and stop it from moving freely.
Two things I'd check. The troll carriage has the top metal box and a collar pressed into it. If that joint comes apart can cause binding.
The other thing to check is the long plunger inside the coil that pushes the troll carriage up. It is two pieces, held together by a roll pin. If that roll pin creeps out, it will drag on the inside of the coil sleeve. Also see if the coil sleeve is cracked or broken.
LTG : )
Quoted from northvibe:I posted something meant for another thread, but didn’t see a delete
You can't do that. Mods or Robin can. Maybe just Robin.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Can you expand a bit more on how that might work?
Fills the hole with bamboo and glue. Thus making it like new wood with no hole. Then when you put the screw back in, it's tight again.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Like bamboo toothpicks? Can you show me the bamboo you're referring to. And just wood glue?
Bamboo skewers can be found all over during barbecue season. I prefer them to toothpicks. Harder, don't squish.
I grabbed ordinary wood glue from a hardware store. Brand was Tite Bond. And wood glue will work.
LTG : )
Quoted from jallen3095:Does anybody know what could cause this to happen?
Something in ajustments set to auto percentage.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:How do you set an extra ball instead of replay score?
See picture right above your post. A.1 14 Replay Award
LTG : )
Quoted from pinballinreno:The LE should come with an amazing topper, the SE and classic does not.
MMR doesn't come with a topper.
LTG : )
Quoted from Riffbear:Whats this bit for? Is it a ball diverter?
Yes, diverts the ball.
Quoted from Riffbear:Can I remove it? (or will that cause major ball drains)
Your game, you can do what ever you want. It will cause major ball drains if removed.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Where waould one buy the shooter lane (right side not ball eject) protector for this game?
http://www.passionforpinball.com/ballejects.htm Cliffy ?
LTG : )
Quoted from starbase:Oh and anyone know a easy way to pop the balls out? Test 21 sounded correct but did nothing.
You could always pull out the high power interlock switch on the left side of the coin door opening ( two white switches, pull out knob on top one ) and then it will work.
LTG : )
Quoted from starbase:Did not find that one in the manual.
Page 1-19 in the manual. To run tests using 50 volts pull that little guy out.
LTG : )
Quoted from marksf123:Looking forward to the MMr with the larger screen coming out soon.
They are working on an upgrade kit for this.
No idea if more MMRs are planned. With or without the bigger screen.
LTG : )
Quoted from BigMorty:I had not heard this was for sure, was it recently announced there will be an upgrade kit?
Quoted from Only_Pinball:Any idea on what this will cost?
I was told at TPF that testing was complete. Then make up instructions and packaging. At least a couple months.
No idea on cost or what is all included.
LTG : )
Quoted from gunstarhero:Does anyone sell the logo for the regular speaker panel still?
Williams didn't use a decal. I don't know if any are available.
The whole panel is : http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-04-10382-7A-1
LTG : )
Quoted from starbase:-My catapult is a little wonky occasionally. Sometimes it does not fire hard enough and ball rolls up and sort of falls off into the top of the castle and gets wedged between wireframe and castle (glass off to get ball lose).
Up by the castle you can loosen and adjust the catapult wireform left or right, and in CGC menu make the catapult stronger or weaker. I'd play with that stuff.
Quoted from starbase:-Should my drawbridge be hitting castle when it closes or should have like a centimeter gap? Mine closes but not all the way but not sure if this is normal or a easy fix.
Hangs open a bit.
Quoted from starbase:-When exiting the pops the ball mainly goes down and hits the top of the right slingshot plastic and heads towards the left flipper. I normally can control it but every time I played a old mmr I remember the ball going down to right flipper, same thing on the pinball arcade. Minor quibble but seems wrong and game is leveled very well front to back of machine.
Adjust the bracket/gate thing that diverts it to aim things better.
LTG : )
Quoted from Ray_Ayala:but I would like to obtain the original part.
Go to Chicago-Gaming.com and under Support open a ticket on the Help desk. Please include pictures of yours and of the part missing like above.
LTG : )
Quoted from Trekie:is this a linkage or cam adjustment?
Allen head set screw on the linkage under the playfield.
LTG : )
Quoted from RetroGamerJP:Are there any protectors for this area?
https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-protector-set/ The one with the brick etching goes in there, the long part protects the drawbridge axle.
I don't know if there are others, or if it's available separately.
LTG : )
Quoted from sethi_i:I need to do my first mechanical repair...on any machine, and I'm looking for a little guidance. I'm not super mechanical, but I can follow instructions with the best of 'em. The left flipper of my MMR has developed a slight droop.
Maybe my video will help.
So you understand the parts and how they work.
LTG : )
Quoted from gunstarhero:Just loosen up the flipper pawl from the flipper shaft,
Just loosen a little at a time until you can barely move the flipper. Then get it in the position you like and then retighten the pawl nut. That way you don't effect the up and down play of the flipper.
LTG : )
Quoted from jaystile:My right flipper on my MMr is not holding.
I'd check the hold winding on the coil. One of the three wires to it.
Quoted from jaystile:Are there online docs with all the switch part numbers?
Your MMR manual.
LTG : )
Quoted from dreamtheme:To get to the secret menu
Page 1-10 in the manual walks you through it or -
LTG : )
Quoted from acidburn:can anyone advise?
Download the manual and see.
http://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals.php
LTG : )
Quoted from Goalie:I don't see it in the manual.
You might have to go to - http://www.chicago-gaming.com/ under Support open a ticket on the Help Desk and post your picture and ask there.
LTG : )
Quoted from acidburn:Does a spare voltage block intended for 240vac come with the machine should the owner wish to alter the voltage?
No, you'd have to move the wires around in that connector that plugs onto the metal box over the on/off switch.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Anybody notice any odd behaviors in game play? I noticed that when the Trolls are in play, if there's a ball hang-up and ball search, the Trolls going down and up during ball search counts as Troll hits.
I suppose you could go into Tests - Switch Edge, bang on playfield, and troll that registers make it a tiny bit less sensitive.
LTG : )
Quoted from Flip_RRR:After 5-10 games my flippers freeze up. First the RH flipper stops then both. Anyone else experience this?
When this happens quick go into Tests - Switch Edge - and push flipper buttons, see if it's them or the flippers acting up.
LTG : )
Quoted from erak:I would also reaseat all connections to the boards. Could be a bad connection acting up because of heat expansion.
There are three blue identical driver boards mounted under the playfield to the huge board. Each one has a row of ten pins on one edge. Push those in to be sure they are making good contact with the huge board.
LTG : )
Quoted from Zampinator:Quick question. How do I adjust the flipper strength on my MMR in the menu? I was told I can, but I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Thanks,
Zamp
In the CGC menu. Page 1-10 in the manual. Or -
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Is there any way to manually change the replay score threshold setting?
In the Williams Menu. Adjustments. A.1 Standard Adjustments 05 Replay System on Fixed or Auto % then 08 Replay Levels you can set things for 09-12.
Play around in there and you can figure it out.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Funny how the threshold keeps changing automatically, is that normal?
If set to auto percentage, yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:is it a normal feature for B/W pins?
If turned on in settings, yes. Goes up or down, depending on the players on the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from Goalie:So my left Troll stopped working.
Go into Tests - Switch Edge - see if the switch below the playfield that lets the game know the troll carriage is up or down works, and see if the troll face switch registers or is stuck closed.
Then follow the coil wires to a nearby driver board. Along one edge is ten pins that plug into the huge board below the playfield, push on them to be sure they are seated good.
LTG : )
Quoted from Damien:Got an error stating "drawbridge sw up" broken.
Two switches on the draw bridge under the playfield. Easy to check both in Tests - Switch Edge, or Tests - Draw bridge - run it up and down and see if switch works. If not check for broken wires or if it needs adjusting.
LTG : )
Quoted from Mrawesome44:If not the shaker what do you think the issue might be?
The leaf blade switch below the pop bumper wants a little attention.
A plastic rod from the pop bumper skirt comes down thru a hole in the playfield and hits a leaf blade switch. The top blade has a plastic spoon. The rod should be centered in it, and the spoon just touching - not pushing - the rod. You can loosen the two screws holding the leaf blade switch if you need to aim it a little to center the rod in the spoon. The lower leaf blade should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. Yours is too close/sensitive.
A little tweaking and you'll be good to go.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Anybody know why you'd do this for MM/MMR? It's on the parts use list but MM/MMR has no magnets.
I know. I know.
Think back. Way back. Before we had electricity. How did we make magnets then ? We took two pieces of steel and banged them together, repeatedly. This lines up their electrons and makes the steel have magnetic properties.
In a pinball machine like MM or MMR with no magnets. You still have steel balls hitting steel balls and hitting ball trough.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Why are troughs made of steel then?
Cheap to make and last a long time.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:I have some mylar hanging around...
Why do you have mylar, hanging around ?
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:MM and MMR in the same collection?
I have both in my location. My original one has what I would call a great personality that my players have always loved. When I had the playfield touched up over a decade ago, I used a different MM in better shape in it's place and the money in it dropped. Innocently one of my players told me that mine played so much better. That MM is here to stay.
My MMR does great too. Players like it.
LTG : )
Quoted from KozMckPinball:For MMR, are there any board mounted batteries to be concerned about leaking?
One round one on the board you need to change maybe once every five years or so.
LTG : )
DSC00084 (resized).JPGQuoted from PinballT:and is running 1.0 software.
You mean when you first turn the game on you see that on the screen ? If so that is the Williams version you can't see.
When you go into the CGC menu, the first screen tells you what version is in your game, you may not need to update. Page 1-10 in the manual explains this or my video -
LTG : )
Quoted from PinballT:can you please help?
I emailed you Scott Tiesma's instructions that should help.
There is always a possibility the software isn't right on the CGC site. If you can't get it on there next time. Report that on your ticket and I'll alert it to the engineers for help.
LTG : )
Quoted from PinballT:The web site that CGC refers you to for the SD card on Amazon is a class 4 and it is suppose to be a class 10.
I think Amazon changed the link. I'll let CGC know.
Lloyd
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Any ideas on whats going on?
Tests - Solenoids pull out the high power interlock switch, does it fire in test ? If not check wiring to coil, thin wires on coil from coil to lugs for a break, wires from the connector to the board, plugged in ?
Tests - Switch Edge - does the switch register in test ? If not remove the switch and try again and touch the leaf blades together, if they work then, you'll need to learn to adjust it better. If not follow the wires to the board and be sure their connector is plugged in.
LTG : )
Quoted from New_England:Is there any way to transfer the warranty to me?
No.
Quoted from New_England:I was able to with the AFMrSE I got with 136 plays.
You shouldn't have been able to.
LTG : )
Quoted from jesperpark:I need some help identifying the part number for this guy.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4254
This one ?
LTG : )
Quoted from jarozi:Anyone know of a place that has MMR in stock?
Try Chris at Kingpin Games - 608-393-2299
LTG : )
Quoted from Lame33:Was that the only one so far or has CGC built some on their own since then?
Stern only did the first ones.
CGC has done all games themselves since then.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hjbondar:I updated to the latest code but when I turn on MMR it says Rev1.0. Is that right
Yes, you hit the enter button and you see 1.0, the Williams version.
You updated the CGC code. Go into the CGC menu ( page 1-10 in the manual or -
) first page on the CGC menu shows what version CGC software is in your game.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Go into the CGC menu
Hold the Escape button down five seconds or so and you go into the CGC menu.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hjbondar:I can't get the volume below 8 and it is still very loud. Any way to get it lower?
I hate when that happens. Don't you hate when that happens ?
Page 1-35 in the manual. Hit Enter Button - go to Standard Adjustments A.1 28 Minimum Volume Override - Change to Yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hjbondar:Am I missing something?
No. Someone chose stainless steel rails and legs instead of gold powder coat rails and legs.
Shouldn't effect value.
LTG : )
Quoted from Hjbondar:I don't have the manual
You can download it from here :
https://www.chicago-gaming.com/product/manuals
LTG : )
Quoted from arcademojo:Anyone know off hand what switch I need to order for this area? Need to get it up and running by Friday night.
Has anyone checked if the screw(s) came loose and the switch needs to be put back on ?
LTG : )
Quoted from arcademojo:Anyone know off hand what switch I need to order for this area?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-20-nos.html
LTG : )
Quoted from MANTO1975:do you know what could be causing this?
Balls magnetized and not rolling down the ball trough right ? New balls or :
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809
If it's always done this, then check the plunger that kicks the ball up to the shooter lane. If the tip is sticking up a fraction of an inch too high, it won't let the balls run into place. The plunger/coil is held to a bracket that is adjustable on the end of the ball trough. Loosen the four screws and move up or down. Not too much or it won't work right.
LTG : )
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ltg.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/1?tu=ltg and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Hopkins, MN
Calgary, AB