Yes the SE and LE in the 2019 run has RGB in the pops, above the castle, in the speakers, and all around the playfield. This particular pop led has a clear star shaped lens and then there's a black plastic body that is screwed down in the pop. I tugged on it pretty hard and am not sure if it has a socket or not. Very hard to see, and I am not sure what I'm looking at. Has anyone ever removed one? What type is it? Is it like the pic I posted from planetary pinball, or is it 555 or bayonets?

by le you mean royal? It is not a normal led you can buy from CT/comet.

CrashJT It is just an connector plugged into the globe. You need to buy the Planetary Pinball ones like the ones in your post.
Unscrew the screw holding the black plastic globe holder and pull up. I added RGB to my pops and made it exactly like the way the SEs and Royals were done, here is a link to a pic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/169#post-6237837

Thank you!

Does anyone have a spare board from royal upgrades? Need one to install just the topper into a base game.

I believe i have a spare topper board packed away somewhere

New Medieval Madness true mirrored backglass 31-1357-50059M ... same process and supplier as for the CCR mirrored backglasses - in stock and available now.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-medieval-madness-mirrored-backglass

the video is uploading/processing so if not ready try in a little bit!

Team PPS

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Does anyone know what this is?

Taking pics for a possible trade and lifted the pf and — naturally — this falls out of the wiring harness. Thanks.

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Yes. Two screws go into it. It rests on the back of a troll head. The screws screw into the metal part on a stand up leaf blade switch.

Either an extra, or a troll is missing one. Just the screws holding the troll head to the leaf stack.

LTG : )

A different color. You can see it in this picture.

LTG : )

trollback (resized).JPG

Thanks Lloyd. You’re the best.

MMR Left flipper died on me tonight when I turned it on (no credit dot) and the moat Vuk and castle gate is not always registering after ball hit. I spotted this screw on the ground of the cabinet. I don’t think it had anything to do with the flipper…
Maybe it’s a fuse issue?
Any suggestions please. See pics. Thank you for your time.
Thanks.
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F3 is clearly blown on the solenoid board. (Blue board in the center, the bottom fuse of the 3 on the left)

Also, do you have a multimeter?

Make sure you have a few 4A fuses (F3 takes 4A, slow blow), because if the coil is bad or the transistor has blown, that new fuse may blow again. It's why I asked if you have a multimeter.

Totally…just realized. What is the proper fuse for it? Strange things have been going on since I installed the color chip.
Thanks brother!88F0F324-FE82-49F1-984C-0FF72F817DA8 (resized).jpeg

The chart says 4A. It looks like the one that blew was a fast blow, so that may be the problem. It's supposed to be a slow blow. Once you get the fuse out, you can read the metal band at the top to see what the one that blew was before you give it a proper burial in the nearest trash.

Cool. I’ll check it out. This is the only meter I have in my “Pinball go bag.”
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Yeah, not going to cut it. You need to spend $50 for a cheap, disposable chinese multimeter like Klein tools autoranging MM400 or about $190 for a Fluke you'll have forever. That and a (weller, hopefully) soldering station are the first two tools for a pinball maintenance kit.

Totally. Could you send me a link to a meter you suggest? Thanks again for the quick response. I appreciate your time.
May I use a 5A or a 4A?

I would stick with 4A it calls for because if the coil or transistor is shorted, when you power up, it could pull an extra amp of power and blow something else up along with the new fuse.

Cheap chinese multimeter:
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Auto-Ranging-Klein-Tools-MM400/dp/B018EXZO8M

Fluke "forever" multimeter (apparently prices have gone up since the pandemic, but this is a GREAT multimeter):
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-117

Weller soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Digital-Soldering-Station-WE1010NA

Hakko soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

Thanks PinMonk

Are there 2 screws on the left side of the flipper coil? Trying to find where your screw came from. I think both are there, just one is in a shadow.

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The one that dropped is not slotted, and it has a lock washer, which the flipper plate screws do not. It's more like the kind of screw you see on the gunmetal gray assembly just below the moat area on the right side.

$45 FLUKE-101 Digital Multimeter https://a.co/d/9m2fNrr

Best cheap meter you can get

It's a nice multimeter, but the lack of a backlight is a dealbreaker for me recommending it. Especially on a pinball machine it can be in the dark or bad lighting a lot.

After doing a decent amount of reading and youtubing, this was what I got and I have no complaints thus far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHLS639

Ah, haven’t had an issue yet, but I can see a backlight being awesome. However personally I would take a higher quality build over a cheap with a back lite. I have a fluke something, Klein and Jensen and they all work ok, but the fluke from my dad is better hands down. Luckily for pinball stuff we don’t need a whole lot of features for basic troubleshooting

The Moat VUK is keeping the ball and not releasing it onto the playfield… there is the moat sound and flash. I’m going to check on it more tonight and see if it has anything to do with the switch, screw, or hopefully not a fuse / transistor issue. Thanks for everything

Another good recommendation is "alligator" clamp tips so you can clamp on to legs etc as holding 2 leads with 1 hand sucks

Switch or vuk issue broken wire likely.
Test if vuk fires in test menu.

Switch needs adjustment, or broken switch wire, or blown 12v fuse (I think the switches run off 12v on MMr, not sure) on the power board. If it's the ONLY switch not registering, adjustment or broken wire are most likely.

Yeah, Fluke is my go-to brand. But for the level of 99% of pinball diagnostic, if a person is on a budget and can't get the 117 with the TL175E test leads, I'd recommend a decent Chinese one with a backlight over a Fluke without. But the Fluke 117 is the #1 recommendation. It will be the last multimeter you buy.

Opto switch in there. If wires are intact, I'd try cleaning the optos next. Damp Q Tip works good.

LTG : )

Ah - what he said.

Thanks guys. Problem solved. I appreciate your time. You all motivate me to fix and play pinball. Such a good feeling fixing then playing pinball.

What was the solution?

I have both a digital VOM (I think I got at Sears) and an analog VOM I got at Radio Shack (about 40 years ago).

In most cases I prefer the analog meter, though self-ranging is great in the digital meter if you have no idea what the voltage might be.

Robert

I did a clean on optics and reset all connections and fuses. I checked all wires. The catapult was acting up too. I assumed the shaker/ castle movement might have caused something to get loose. Shaker motor is cool, but I think it loosens mechanics/wires somewhat. All was finally working, but I still keep a close eye on it and thanks for all the quick responses.

ah! thanks for posting

I JUST had an issue where the castle lock wasn't registering. and i tipped the pf up. flicked the switch all worked just fine in test, but it seemed like switch arm got hung up but once I lifted the pf it unstuck and was fine... ugh pinabll

We put on our store (www.planetarypinball.com) all the MM Royal Edition diamond trim parts that we have. I highly suggest that you look at what items we have available and order replacements or spares. It is unknown at this time if or when we can get more.

PPS-01-8993-4-BD – Side Molding – Black Diamond
PPS-A-19514-BD – Leg Assy
PPS-A-12615-BD – Front Molding
PPS-MLS-XLFRM-BD – XL Display Frame
PPS-01-901112L-BD – Backbox Bracket LH
PPS-01-901112R-BD – Backbox Bracket RH
PPS-SUB-ROYARCH-BD – Bottom Arch Assy – MMR Royal

Thanks

Team PPS

Does anyone know what trim level would pertain to a game with a 2017 build date and model number 11000?

Thanks

Yes and it looks awesome

For the mirrored backglass, do I need new trim?

i just received and installed the mirrored back glass for my MMRLE and used the existing trim. Looks amazing and had no issues with install.

Would love one for my LE but $200 shipping plus duties to the UK is a killer, does look very nice in the video.

I did both my CC an MM. CC was super easy. MM was harder but I got to work with the existing trim.

New owner here of a 2015 remake. (And my first pin!)

Great machine, been having a lot of fun, but the one thing I can’t quite sort yet is the left orbit path. Fast balls out of it such as the super skillshot tend to go sdtm (when not flipping) or to the extreme tip of left flipper (if held up). As I understand it, the ball should come out of the left orbit and hit the middle of the left (unflipped) flipper. Slower balls do this pretty well, but fast ones come out in the middle.

Here is a video of the path:

I’ve been told that the left orbit ball guide needs to be adjusted, but it seems buried under wireform and multiple plastic covers. Before I disassemble a bunch of stuff, can anyone give me an idea of exactly which way I should adjust it or what will affect the ball in the right direction?

See post 8573. I had the same issue.

Thanks! This is exactly what I think it is.

Which rubber size/part exactly do I need to shop for?

I got mine from Titan: just order the thinner Stern style.