(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

8 years ago


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  • 762 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by DarkWizard
  • Topic is favorited by 378 Pinsiders

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There are 10,191 posts in this topic. You are on page 193 of 204.
#9601 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

did the later run have rgb pops? original runs did not.
But yes that would be the bulb. I ordered those to add rgb to my pops and just haven't done the mod yet. Will do it when I shop the game as the ramps need to come off.

Yes the SE and LE in the 2019 run has RGB in the pops, above the castle, in the speakers, and all around the playfield. This particular pop led has a clear star shaped lens and then there's a black plastic body that is screwed down in the pop. I tugged on it pretty hard and am not sure if it has a socket or not. Very hard to see, and I am not sure what I'm looking at. Has anyone ever removed one? What type is it? Is it like the pic I posted from planetary pinball, or is it 555 or bayonets?

#9602 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Yes the SE and LE in the 2019 run has RGB in the pops, above the castle, in the speakers, and all around the playfield. This particular pop led has a clear star shaped lens and then there's a black plastic body that is screwed down in the pop. I tugged on it pretty hard and am not sure if it has a socket or not. Very hard to see, and I am not sure what I'm looking at. Has anyone ever removed one? What type is it? Is it like the pic I posted from planetary pinball, or is it 555 or bayonets?

by le you mean royal? It is not a normal led you can buy from CT/comet.

#9603 1 year ago

CrashJT It is just an connector plugged into the globe. You need to buy the Planetary Pinball ones like the ones in your post.
Unscrew the screw holding the black plastic globe holder and pull up. I added RGB to my pops and made it exactly like the way the SEs and Royals were done, here is a link to a pic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/169#post-6237837

#9604 1 year ago
Quoted from ktm450:

CrashJT It is just an connector plugged into the globe. You need to buy the Planetary Pinball ones like the ones in your post.
Unscrew the screw holding the black plastic globe holder and pull up. I added RGB to my pops and made it exactly like the way the SEs and Royals were done, here is a link to a pic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/169#post-6237837

Thank you!

#9605 1 year ago

Does anyone have a spare board from royal upgrades? Need one to install just the topper into a base game.

#9606 1 year ago
Quoted from ToddSonOfOdin:

Does anyone have a spare board from royal upgrades? Need one to install just the topper into a base game.

I believe i have a spare topper board packed away somewhere

1 week later
#9607 1 year ago

New Medieval Madness true mirrored backglass 31-1357-50059M ... same process and supplier as for the CCR mirrored backglasses - in stock and available now.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-medieval-madness-mirrored-backglass

the video is uploading/processing so if not ready try in a little bit!

Team PPS

MM-1 (resized).jpgMM-1 (resized).jpgMM-2 (resized).jpegMM-2 (resized).jpegMM-3 (resized).jpegMM-3 (resized).jpegMM-4 (resized).jpegMM-4 (resized).jpeg
#9608 1 year ago

Does anyone know what this is?

Taking pics for a possible trade and lifted the pf and — naturally — this falls out of the wiring harness. Thanks.

630B0B46-E1F4-4E1F-B8CD-90C939EE85F4 (resized).jpeg630B0B46-E1F4-4E1F-B8CD-90C939EE85F4 (resized).jpeg
#9609 1 year ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

Does anyone know what this is?

Yes. Two screws go into it. It rests on the back of a troll head. The screws screw into the metal part on a stand up leaf blade switch.

Either an extra, or a troll is missing one. Just the screws holding the troll head to the leaf stack.

LTG : )

#9610 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. Two screws go into it. It rests on the back of a troll head. The screws screw into the metal part on a stand up leaf blade switch.

Either an extra, or a troll is missing one. Just the screws holding the troll head to the leaf stack.

LTG : )

A different color. You can see it in this picture.

LTG : )

trollback (resized).JPGtrollback (resized).JPG
#9611 1 year ago

Thanks Lloyd. You’re the best.

#9612 1 year ago

MMR Left flipper died on me tonight when I turned it on (no credit dot) and the moat Vuk and castle gate is not always registering after ball hit. I spotted this screw on the ground of the cabinet. I don’t think it had anything to do with the flipper…
Maybe it’s a fuse issue?
Any suggestions please. See pics. Thank you for your time.
Thanks.
F62C1498-D6EE-4B75-A40E-A21CED4C2966 (resized).jpegF62C1498-D6EE-4B75-A40E-A21CED4C2966 (resized).jpeg
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#9613 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

MMR Left flipper died on me tonight when I turned it on (no credit dot) and the moat Vuk and castle gate is not always registering after ball hit. I spotted this screw on the ground of the cabinet. I don’t think it had anything to do with the flipper…
Maybe it’s a fuse issue?
Any suggestions please. See pics. Thank you for your time.
Thanks.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

F3 is clearly blown on the solenoid board. (Blue board in the center, the bottom fuse of the 3 on the left)

Also, do you have a multimeter?

Make sure you have a few 4A fuses (F3 takes 4A, slow blow), because if the coil is bad or the transistor has blown, that new fuse may blow again. It's why I asked if you have a multimeter.

#9614 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

F3 is clearly blown on the solenoid board.
Also, do you have a multimeter?

Totally…just realized. What is the proper fuse for it? Strange things have been going on since I installed the color chip.
Thanks brother!88F0F324-FE82-49F1-984C-0FF72F817DA8 (resized).jpeg88F0F324-FE82-49F1-984C-0FF72F817DA8 (resized).jpeg

#9615 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Totally…just realized. What is the proper fuse for it? Strange things have been going on since I installed the color chip.
Thanks brother![quoted image]

The chart says 4A. It looks like the one that blew was a fast blow, so that may be the problem. It's supposed to be a slow blow. Once you get the fuse out, you can read the metal band at the top to see what the one that blew was before you give it a proper burial in the nearest trash.

#9616 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The chart says 4A. It looks like the one that blew was a quick blow, so that may be the problem. It's supposed to be a slow blow.

Cool. I’ll check it out. This is the only meter I have in my “Pinball go bag.”
5CC187FD-7663-4114-A817-CA1F8A3A2313 (resized).jpeg5CC187FD-7663-4114-A817-CA1F8A3A2313 (resized).jpeg

#9617 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Cool. I’ll check it out. This is the only meter I have in my “Pinball go bag.”
[quoted image]

Yeah, not going to cut it. You need to spend $50 for a cheap, disposable chinese multimeter like Klein tools autoranging MM400 or about $190 for a Fluke you'll have forever. That and a (weller, hopefully) soldering station are the first two tools for a pinball maintenance kit.

#9618 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, not going to cut it. You need to spend $50 for a cheap, disposable chinese multimeter like Klein tools autoranging MM400 or about $190 for a Fluke you'll have forever. That and a soldering iron are the first two tools for a pinball maintenance kit.

Totally. Could you send me a link to a meter you suggest? Thanks again for the quick response. I appreciate your time.
May I use a 5A or a 4A?

#9619 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Totally. Could you send me a link to a meter you suggest? Thanks again for the quick response. I appreciate your time.
May I use a 5A or a 4A?

I would stick with 4A it calls for because if the coil or transistor is shorted, when you power up, it could pull an extra amp of power and blow something else up along with the new fuse.

Cheap chinese multimeter:
https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Auto-Ranging-Klein-Tools-MM400/dp/B018EXZO8M

Fluke "forever" multimeter (apparently prices have gone up since the pandemic, but this is a GREAT multimeter):
https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-117

Weller soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-Digital-Soldering-Station-WE1010NA

Hakko soldering station:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

#9621 1 year ago

Are there 2 screws on the left side of the flipper coil? Trying to find where your screw came from. I think both are there, just one is in a shadow.

0176D723-68DD-4917-AA6E-64028CE263CC (resized).jpeg0176D723-68DD-4917-AA6E-64028CE263CC (resized).jpeg

#9622 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Are there 2 screws on the left side of the flipper coil? Trying to find where your screw came from. I think both are there, just one is in a shadow.
[quoted image]

The one that dropped is not slotted, and it has a lock washer, which the flipper plate screws do not. It's more like the kind of screw you see on the gunmetal gray assembly just below the moat area on the right side.

#9623 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Totally. Could you send me a link to a meter you suggest? Thanks again for the quick response. I appreciate your time.
May I use a 5A or a 4A?

$45 FLUKE-101 Digital Multimeter https://a.co/d/9m2fNrr

Best cheap meter you can get

#9624 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

$45 FLUKE-101 Digital Multimeter https://a.co/d/9m2fNrr
Best cheap meter you can get

It's a nice multimeter, but the lack of a backlight is a dealbreaker for me recommending it. Especially on a pinball machine it can be in the dark or bad lighting a lot.

#9625 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

$45 FLUKE-101 Digital Multimeter https://a.co/d/9m2fNrr
Best cheap meter you can get

After doing a decent amount of reading and youtubing, this was what I got and I have no complaints thus far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHLS639

#9626 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's a nice multimeter, but the lack of a backlight is a dealbreaker for me recommending it. Especially on a pinball machine it can be in the dark or bad lighting a lot.

Ah, haven’t had an issue yet, but I can see a backlight being awesome. However personally I would take a higher quality build over a cheap with a back lite. I have a fluke something, Klein and Jensen and they all work ok, but the fluke from my dad is better hands down. Luckily for pinball stuff we don’t need a whole lot of features for basic troubleshooting

#9627 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The one that dropped is not slotted, and it has a lock washer, which the flipper plate screws do not. It's more like the kind of screw you see on the gunmetal gray assembly just below the moat area on the right side.

The Moat VUK is keeping the ball and not releasing it onto the playfield… there is the moat sound and flash. I’m going to check on it more tonight and see if it has anything to do with the switch, screw, or hopefully not a fuse / transistor issue. Thanks for everything

#9628 1 year ago

Another good recommendation is "alligator" clamp tips so you can clamp on to legs etc as holding 2 leads with 1 hand sucks

#9629 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

The Moat VUK is keeping the ball and not releasing it onto the playfield… there is the moat sound and flash. I’m going to check on it more tonight and see if it has anything to do with the switch, screw, or hopefully not a fuse / transistor issue. Thanks for everything

Switch or vuk issue broken wire likely.
Test if vuk fires in test menu.

#9630 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

The Moat VUK is keeping the ball and not releasing it onto the playfield… there is the moat sound and flash. I’m going to check on it more tonight and see if it has anything to do with the switch, screw, or hopefully not a fuse / transistor issue. Thanks for everything

Switch needs adjustment, or broken switch wire, or blown 12v fuse (I think the switches run off 12v on MMr, not sure) on the power board. If it's the ONLY switch not registering, adjustment or broken wire are most likely.

#9631 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ah, haven’t had an issue yet, but I can see a backlight being awesome. However personally I would take a higher quality build over a cheap with a back lite. I have a fluke something, Klein and Jensen and they all work ok, but the fluke from my dad is better hands down. Luckily for pinball stuff we don’t need a whole lot of features for basic troubleshooting

Yeah, Fluke is my go-to brand. But for the level of 99% of pinball diagnostic, if a person is on a budget and can't get the 117 with the TL175E test leads, I'd recommend a decent Chinese one with a backlight over a Fluke without. But the Fluke 117 is the #1 recommendation. It will be the last multimeter you buy.

#9632 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Switch needs adjustment, or broken switch wire, or blown 12v fuse (I think the switches run off 12v on MMr, not sure) on the power board. If it's the ONLY switch not registering, adjustment or broken wire are most likely.

Opto switch in there. If wires are intact, I'd try cleaning the optos next. Damp Q Tip works good.

LTG : )

#9633 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Opto switch in there. If wires are intact, I'd try cleaning the optos next. Damp Q Tip works good.
LTG : )

Ah - what he said.

#9634 1 year ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Switch or vuk issue broken wire likely.
Test if vuk fires in test menu.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Switch needs adjustment, or broken switch wire, or blown 12v fuse (I think the switches run off 12v on MMr, not sure) on the power board. If it's the ONLY switch not registering, adjustment or broken wire are most likely.

Quoted from LTG:

Opto switch in there. If wires are intact, I'd try cleaning the optos next. Damp Q Tip works good.
LTG : )

Thanks guys. Problem solved. I appreciate your time. You all motivate me to fix and play pinball. Such a good feeling fixing then playing pinball.

#9635 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

Thanks guys. Problem solved. I appreciate your time. You all motivate me to fix and play pinball. Such a good feeling fixing then playing pinball.

What was the solution?

#9636 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, Fluke is my go-to brand. But for the level of 99% of pinball diagnostic, if a person is on a budget and can't get the 117 with the TL175E test leads, I'd recommend a decent Chinese one with a backlight over a Fluke without. But the Fluke 117 is the #1 recommendation. It will be the last multimeter you buy.

I have both a digital VOM (I think I got at Sears) and an analog VOM I got at Radio Shack (about 40 years ago).

In most cases I prefer the analog meter, though self-ranging is great in the digital meter if you have no idea what the voltage might be.

Robert

#9637 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

What was the solution?

I did a clean on optics and reset all connections and fuses. I checked all wires. The catapult was acting up too. I assumed the shaker/ castle movement might have caused something to get loose. Shaker motor is cool, but I think it loosens mechanics/wires somewhat. All was finally working, but I still keep a close eye on it and thanks for all the quick responses.

#9638 1 year ago
Quoted from PaulCoff:

I did a clean on optics and reset all connections and fuses. I checked all wires. The catapult was acting up too. I assumed the shaker/ castle movement might have caused something to get loose. Shaker motor is cool, but I think it loosens mechanics/wires somewhat. All was finally working, but I still keep a close eye on it and thanks for all the quick responses.

ah! thanks for posting

I JUST had an issue where the castle lock wasn't registering. and i tipped the pf up. flicked the switch all worked just fine in test, but it seemed like switch arm got hung up but once I lifted the pf it unstuck and was fine... ugh pinabll

#9639 1 year ago

We put on our store (www.planetarypinball.com) all the MM Royal Edition diamond trim parts that we have. I highly suggest that you look at what items we have available and order replacements or spares. It is unknown at this time if or when we can get more.

PPS-01-8993-4-BD – Side Molding – Black Diamond
PPS-A-19514-BD – Leg Assy
PPS-A-12615-BD – Front Molding
PPS-MLS-XLFRM-BD – XL Display Frame
PPS-01-901112L-BD – Backbox Bracket LH
PPS-01-901112R-BD – Backbox Bracket RH
PPS-SUB-ROYARCH-BD – Bottom Arch Assy – MMR Royal

Thanks

Team PPS

#9640 1 year ago

Does anyone know what trim level would pertain to a game with a 2017 build date and model number 11000?

Thanks

#9641 1 year ago
Quoted from PPS:

New Medieval Madness true mirrored backglass 31-1357-50059M ... same process and supplier as for the CCR mirrored backglasses - in stock and available now.
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-medieval-madness-mirrored-backglass
the video is uploading/processing so if not ready try in a little bit!

Team PPS
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You can put this in a remake?

#9642 1 year ago
Quoted from Dwboca:You can put this in a remake?

Yes and it looks awesome

#9643 1 year ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Yes and it looks awesome

For the mirrored backglass, do I need new trim?

#9644 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

For the mirrored backglass, do I need new trim?

i just received and installed the mirrored back glass for my MMRLE and used the existing trim. Looks amazing and had no issues with install.

#9645 1 year ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

i just received and installed the mirrored back glass for my MMRLE and used the existing trim. Looks amazing and had no issues with install.

Would love one for my LE but $200 shipping plus duties to the UK is a killer, does look very nice in the video.

#9646 1 year ago
Quoted from marioparty34:

For the mirrored backglass, do I need new trim?

I did both my CC an MM. CC was super easy. MM was harder but I got to work with the existing trim.

1 week later
#9647 1 year ago

New owner here of a 2015 remake. (And my first pin!)

Great machine, been having a lot of fun, but the one thing I can’t quite sort yet is the left orbit path. Fast balls out of it such as the super skillshot tend to go sdtm (when not flipping) or to the extreme tip of left flipper (if held up). As I understand it, the ball should come out of the left orbit and hit the middle of the left (unflipped) flipper. Slower balls do this pretty well, but fast ones come out in the middle.

Here is a video of the path:

I’ve been told that the left orbit ball guide needs to be adjusted, but it seems buried under wireform and multiple plastic covers. Before I disassemble a bunch of stuff, can anyone give me an idea of exactly which way I should adjust it or what will affect the ball in the right direction?

#9648 1 year ago
Quoted from tzakiel:

New owner here of a 2015 remake. (And my first pin!)
Great machine, been having a lot of fun, but the one thing I can’t quite sort yet is the left orbit path. Fast balls out of it such as the super skillshot tend to go sdtm (when not flipping) or to the extreme tip of left flipper (if held up). As I understand it, the ball should come out of the left orbit and hit the middle of the left (unflipped) flipper. Slower balls do this pretty well, but fast ones come out in the middle.
Here is a video of the path:
I’ve been told that the left orbit ball guide needs to be adjusted, but it seems buried under wireform and multiple plastic covers. Before I disassemble a bunch of stuff, can anyone give me an idea of exactly which way I should adjust it or what will affect the ball in the right direction?

See post 8573. I had the same issue.

#9649 1 year ago
Quoted from gorditas:

See post 8573. I had the same issue.

Thanks! This is exactly what I think it is.

Which rubber size/part exactly do I need to shop for?

#9650 1 year ago
Quoted from tzakiel:

Thanks! This is exactly what I think it is.
Which rubber size/part exactly do I need to shop for?

I got mine from Titan: just order the thinner Stern style.

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