Ya I was told the LE run had the double sided tape, not sure on any else

My first part issue... switch 32, trough LED.

I assume that this refers to the LED2 location on the trough boards; is that correct?

Robert

Yes.

Please remove the balls, open coin door so game doesn't fire stuff looking for them. Then go into Tests - Switch Edge. Roll balls into the ball trough one at a time, see if all the optos work. If not turn the game off. Reseat the ball trough connectors, try testing again.

Also you can clean the optos and be sure nothing is in there obstructing them.

LTG : )

Thanks, I figured out the opto number when I looked at the board closely... it's printed on the opposite side of the board.

I have taken out both and cleaned the sender and the receiver as well as the connectors.

The issue still was there. Then I took the dog for a walk.

When I got home I tried the switch edge test, and all of the switches in the trough worked.

So I tried the "slap the side of the game" test and switch 32 would momentarily close with no balls and stay closed with a ball in the trough.

So I guess there is an issue with perhaps a solder joint, connector pin/wire or the emitter/receiver.

Robert

Reflowing solder is the usual fix

It appears to be a broken wire between the receiver board and the TR opto connector.

I'll need to get out my schematic.

Robert

Richard-NBA-SF2 and gorditas … thanks for the reply. Its actually for a late run AFM…so hopefully no tape.

Was planning on pulling them today and wasnt getting a reply on that thread (admittedly was prettyimpatient..ha!)

It's actually a wire that has pulled out of the TR opto connector.

Unfortunately I can't find a pin extractor for that size, I guess I'll have to buy one. Does anyone know what size I need?

Robert

YOu have a pic? I haven't opened my MMr up today but need to at some point.

Still can't find my extractors... might have to buy a new one. I forget how expensive nice ones are!

Robert

IMG_20220117_081548700~2 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220117_081559299~2 (resized).jpg

Looks like a 0.1 "molex" tool size.
You could also take a pick or tiny flat head to the rear to push that back clip down and slide out. Extraction tool similar to a gottlieb edge connetor isn't needed. In pic 1 you posted, that is the side you have to lightly depress the back of the pin and apply pressure on pulling out the wire and it should slide out.

since you may have one stuck inside, you can use a pick and just wreck the pin by applying pressure and angle to push in and slide it out.

That's what I did. I tried that yesterday and thought I might break the connector, so I stopped. But today I got it out.

So the game is fixed, no credit dot.

Robert

Glad to hear! Yeah, sometimes those pin/connectors feel like you'll break them

Don't forget to reset the lock tab before you re-insert the terminal into the plastic. It should stick out so that it locks into the slot in the plastic. This prevents terminal pushout when mating female to male and also during vibration.
Cheers!
Richard

After playing a few games, the ball got stuck again behind the gate on the Jump the Moat and Break Through the Castle Wall shot.

This has happened several times and I'm checking to see if others have had this issue and if so what they did to mitigate it.

For me if the shot is solid, the ball will jump back over the return hole access and rest against the castle gate flap. No amount of shaking or ball searching will dislodge it.

The gate seams to rotate a little bit to far back, trapping the ball. Maybe there is a fix that doesn't allow this.

Robert

has anyone done the Royal Edition upgrades (RGB/Topper)? how big of a nightmare is it?

I did all 3. Not a problem at all. Pinball supernova did a youtube video and they had a few minor issues with the template for the topper. I had the same issues as them so the video was a great help. Also if you look thru the thread there is a wiring issue with the speakers that about half of us had (I did). You also have to wire the speaker lights on the xl display of you want them to be RGB, also not hard.

Yeah. Topper I had to drill a couple holes in the top. Third one was over the knocker lol skipped that one. And you mount a board in head, update code. Easy I would say.
RGB took a while and was time consuming since I didn't want to screw it up. But after a string you get the hang of it. Bumper pops was a bit odd but not too bad.
Color chip simple.

XL.display and speakers was the worst actually. Had to chisel the sub woofer out. And only.one speaker worked Had to redo the pinning in the molex connector. And if you want any color on the speakers other than blue you have to unpin the molex on the display and stick into the topper board.

Still nothing that hard, a few hours.

There are posts in this topic describing the XL display fixes.

I have not had that issue.

Agreed, removing the Base speaker was the most difficult. Mostly takes time to do it properly.

Anyone make a custom pingulp with art for this machine? Could not find anything on the Google. I have my Deadpool one on there now.

Modfather pinball makes a few styles. https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/medieval-madness
I usually buy my pingulps from them but for this machine I went with one from another website. Don't remember where though.

cup holder (resized).jpg

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209406

This one looks good on MM

Darn if you remember let me know. I like that one compared to any from modfather

I like these plain black ones from Pinball Life

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BDBF0EDB-304B-4D88-8965-7F4367127A0B (resized).jpeg

yeah I have the basic PBL v2 and v3's on all my games. But a custom one would be a nice touch!

Add a $3 AFM sticker from RedBubble and you’ve got a fancy drink holder for $15.

A8384DCF-956C-4589-B357-8AB13A30FE3B (resized).png

Good idea but wrong game hehe

I just meant in general, it’s another option to customize a pin gulp. His cup is on AFM…

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So sad...RIP LFS

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Listened to a podcast with Lyman; didn't realize you could get cows instead of children on catapult save the children. So I did it. Amusing, still didn't win. Darn it.

Question, I have an MMR LE and noticed that the coin door lights are really dim. I replaced them with Comet LED bulbs but then they dont work. I put the others back in and they work but are very dimly lit. Is this normal? Are all the Remakes this way?
Thank you for any help

Yeah it's dim. Mine at least the bulbs are not even that close or even pointed directly at the coin plastic. I guess if yours is the same you could try moving the lights around somehow.

Never really noticed. I guess much dimer than the start button. I think they look good tho.
Yours much dimmer than my pic? May be hard to tell, but the pic I took is pretty close to what they look like.

Cheers!
Richard

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Be careful of the voltage on AFMr and MMr coin door leds. I believe they are 12v on the door, but double check that. I bought my MMr and it had a 6.3v bulb that was partly melted in the socket. I removed it and replaced with a 13v bulb and it works fine. Just make sure you don't put 6.3v bulbs in a 12-13v socket. I was very surprised they weren't 6.3 like most doors are.

Here is mine. They work but it must be a different voltage. The led bulb that is in there has a super small pinhole (i didn't put them in). I was trying to put Comet 6.3V bulb in and they wouldn't work. The only 13V LED bulbs i have are flashers

IMG_6634 (resized).jpg

IIRC start butttons are 12v, PBL, comet and CT all carry plain (non flashing) 12v, throw one in your next order! I need some as well

Correction, whatever bulb i put in will work but they are dimly lit. I also put a 13v flasher in and it was very dim.

Flashers get hit with higher voltage.

Put a meter on your socket to find out what voltage bulb or LED you should use.

LTG : )

My MMR LE seems to be missing the gate in the Joust lane. (Pic below)

It does not appear to effect game play. What is its purpose? I do not see (or am just missing it) anything in the owners manual…

C4F753EB-2BC0-4D9B-A15F-3775968952FF (resized).jpeg

Edit: wrong thread…sorry. Think I will leave it anyway.

I think that gate pushes the ball to the ball guide so it doesn’t exit the next gate and go sdtm. Do you “need” it? Prob not, but may depend if you want your game to be all oem, or if you get sdtm balls from the pops and orbit

Anyone ever have issue with the leds in any of the inserts? I noticed within the last month or so that the 3 Lock insert is dim. Its odd though as it will work for a bit then get dim, then get brighter. Hoping its something easy, lifted the playfield and didn’t see anything out if the ordinary.

Edited yeah its leds mounted to a board. Could try opening a ticket with Chicago gaming they seem responsive.

I think these are surface mount 3 led banks.

I'd have to take a look as I don't recall what's under that area on MMR. It has been solid for me so far so haven't needed.

Have you tried re-seating the connectors on the board?

Yeah ill have to try that. Looking at it last night nothing looked loose.

I've had in the lock 3 insert. 1 Led always flash and light a bit from day one when any of the other locks light are on. Brighter when flashers go off on my LE. I've never been able to fix it. With any reseating. But it's not a huge issue. Someday I might dig deeper into the LEDs on the board.

I think the wedge bulbs are the ones with 2 exposed wires. Sometimes wedge sockets get pushed apart and need replacing, but prob not on MMr. Bayonet have the metal base with 2 little nubs.