(Topic ID: 128232)

MMR Owners Club, all things MMR discussed

By SuperPinball

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 9,275 posts
  • 687 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by HarryReimer
  • Topic is favorited by 361 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

AF6215F9-F640-4C22-B2AB-AB693DF7D660 (resized).jpeg
20220510_003345 (resized).jpg
20220510_002724 (resized).jpg
20220510_002707 (resized).jpg
20220510_002629 (resized).jpg
20220510_002704 (resized).jpg
890B8B64-9CF4-4457-A0B9-293E69D8CDF3 (resized).jpeg
719Fl9fNH7L._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg
s385790218873361898_p74_i2_w160 (resized).jpeg
C5D06A3A-8F0A-465C-994E-2FE6A05F6E04 (resized).jpeg
101744E0-D9B4-4172-85F6-17F5BD8AC701 (resized).jpeg
377d166f3c657abf4d48ad70daa39b1cd911e012 (resized).jpg
20220412_135658 (resized).jpg
broken-troll-carriage-1 (resized).JPG
F974B95F-2391-48E1-90FF-49554A48204B (resized).jpeg
6A92C06F-0AEC-40DB-BA40-A3F8502E7783 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 9,275 posts in this topic. You are on page 181 of 186.
#9001 4 months ago
Quoted from gorditas:

The hinges will need to swing out of the way to remove the upper mounting bolt. Are you not powder coating them as well? Are your rails taped on? They are a bear to remove without bending, if that is the case. My MMR had no adhesive, so they came off easily. But on other games that did utilize 3M tape, I bought new rails from Pinball Life. It greatly reduced the stress of removing them, and probably paid for themselves in prep time to remove the adhesive: they can't go on the oven with any tape residue.

Ya I was told the LE run had the double sided tape, not sure on any else

#9002 4 months ago

My first part issue... switch 32, trough LED.

I assume that this refers to the LED2 location on the trough boards; is that correct?

Robert

#9003 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

My first part issue... switch 32, trough LED.

I assume that this refers to the LED2 location on the trough boards; is that correct?

Yes.

Please remove the balls, open coin door so game doesn't fire stuff looking for them. Then go into Tests - Switch Edge. Roll balls into the ball trough one at a time, see if all the optos work. If not turn the game off. Reseat the ball trough connectors, try testing again.

Also you can clean the optos and be sure nothing is in there obstructing them.

LTG : )

#9004 4 months ago

Thanks, I figured out the opto number when I looked at the board closely... it's printed on the opposite side of the board.

I have taken out both and cleaned the sender and the receiver as well as the connectors.

The issue still was there. Then I took the dog for a walk.

When I got home I tried the switch edge test, and all of the switches in the trough worked.

So I tried the "slap the side of the game" test and switch 32 would momentarily close with no balls and stay closed with a ball in the trough.

So I guess there is an issue with perhaps a solder joint, connector pin/wire or the emitter/receiver.

Robert

#9005 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Thanks, I figured out the opto number when I looked at the board closely... it's printed on the opposite side of the board.
I have taken out both and cleaned the sender and the receiver as well as the connectors.
The issue still was there. Then I took the dog for a walk.
When I got home I tried the switch edge test, and all of the switches in the trough worked.
So I tried the "slap the side of the game" test and switch 32 would momentarily close with no balls and stay closed with a ball in the trough.
So I guess there is an issue with perhaps a solder joint, connector pin/wire or the emitter/receiver.
Robert

Reflowing solder is the usual fix

#9006 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

So I guess there is an issue with perhaps a solder joint, connector pin/wire or the emitter/receiver.

It appears to be a broken wire between the receiver board and the TR opto connector.

I'll need to get out my schematic.

Robert

#9007 4 months ago

Richard-NBA-SF2 and gorditas … thanks for the reply. Its actually for a late run AFM…so hopefully no tape.

Was planning on pulling them today and wasnt getting a reply on that thread (admittedly was prettyimpatient..ha!)

#9008 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

It appears to be a broken wire between the receiver board and the TR opto connector.

It's actually a wire that has pulled out of the TR opto connector.

Unfortunately I can't find a pin extractor for that size, I guess I'll have to buy one. Does anyone know what size I need?

Robert

#9009 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

It's actually a wire that has pulled out of the TR opto connector.
Unfortunately I can't find a pin extractor for that size, I guess I'll have to buy one. Does anyone know what size I need?
Robert

YOu have a pic? I haven't opened my MMr up today but need to at some point.

#9010 4 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

YOu have a pic? I haven't opened my MMr up today but need to at some point.

Still can't find my extractors... might have to buy a new one. I forget how expensive nice ones are!

Robert

IMG_20220117_081548700~2 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220117_081559299~2 (resized).jpg

#9011 4 months ago

Looks like a 0.1 "molex" tool size.
You could also take a pick or tiny flat head to the rear to push that back clip down and slide out. Extraction tool similar to a gottlieb edge connetor isn't needed. In pic 1 you posted, that is the side you have to lightly depress the back of the pin and apply pressure on pulling out the wire and it should slide out.

since you may have one stuck inside, you can use a pick and just wreck the pin by applying pressure and angle to push in and slide it out.

#9012 4 months ago
Quoted from northvibe:

You could also take a pick or tiny flat head to the rear to push that back clip down and slide out.

That's what I did. I tried that yesterday and thought I might break the connector, so I stopped. But today I got it out.

So the game is fixed, no credit dot.

Robert

#9013 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

That's what I did. I tried that yesterday and thought I might break the connector, so I stopped. But today I got it out.
So the game is fixed, no credit dot.
Robert

Glad to hear! Yeah, sometimes those pin/connectors feel like you'll break them

#9014 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

That's what I did. I tried that yesterday and thought I might break the connector, so I stopped. But today I got it out.
So the game is fixed, no credit dot.
Robert

Don't forget to reset the lock tab before you re-insert the terminal into the plastic. It should stick out so that it locks into the slot in the plastic. This prevents terminal pushout when mating female to male and also during vibration.
Cheers!
Richard

#9015 4 months ago

After playing a few games, the ball got stuck again behind the gate on the Jump the Moat and Break Through the Castle Wall shot.

This has happened several times and I'm checking to see if others have had this issue and if so what they did to mitigate it.

For me if the shot is solid, the ball will jump back over the return hole access and rest against the castle gate flap. No amount of shaking or ball searching will dislodge it.

The gate seams to rotate a little bit to far back, trapping the ball. Maybe there is a fix that doesn't allow this.

Robert

#9016 4 months ago

has anyone done the Royal Edition upgrades (RGB/Topper)? how big of a nightmare is it?

#9017 4 months ago
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:

has anyone done the Royal Edition upgrades (RGB/Topper)? how big of a nightmare is it?

I did all 3. Not a problem at all. Pinball supernova did a youtube video and they had a few minor issues with the template for the topper. I had the same issues as them so the video was a great help. Also if you look thru the thread there is a wiring issue with the speakers that about half of us had (I did). You also have to wire the speaker lights on the xl display of you want them to be RGB, also not hard.

#9018 4 months ago
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:

has anyone done the Royal Edition upgrades (RGB/Topper)? how big of a nightmare is it?

Yeah. Topper I had to drill a couple holes in the top. Third one was over the knocker lol skipped that one. And you mount a board in head, update code. Easy I would say.
RGB took a while and was time consuming since I didn't want to screw it up. But after a string you get the hang of it. Bumper pops was a bit odd but not too bad.
Color chip simple.

XL.display and speakers was the worst actually. Had to chisel the sub woofer out. And only.one speaker worked Had to redo the pinning in the molex connector. And if you want any color on the speakers other than blue you have to unpin the molex on the display and stick into the topper board.

Still nothing that hard, a few hours.

There are posts in this topic describing the XL display fixes.

#9019 4 months ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

After playing a few games, the ball got stuck again behind the gate on the Jump the Moat and Break Through the Castle Wall shot.
This has happened several times and I'm checking to see if others have had this issue and if so what they did to mitigate it.
For me if the shot is solid, the ball will jump back over the return hole access and rest against the castle gate flap. No amount of shaking or ball searching will dislodge it.
The gate seams to rotate a little bit to far back, trapping the ball. Maybe there is a fix that doesn't allow this.
Robert

I have not had that issue.

#9020 4 months ago

Agreed, removing the Base speaker was the most difficult. Mostly takes time to do it properly.

#9021 4 months ago

Anyone make a custom pingulp with art for this machine? Could not find anything on the Google. I have my Deadpool one on there now.

#9022 4 months ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Anyone make a custom pingulp with art for this machine? Could not find anything on the Google. I have my Deadpool one on there now.

Modfather pinball makes a few styles. https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/medieval-madness
I usually buy my pingulps from them but for this machine I went with one from another website. Don't remember where though.

cup holder (resized).jpg
#9023 4 months ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Anyone make a custom pingulp with art for this machine? Could not find anything on the Google. I have my Deadpool one on there now.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3209406

This one looks good on MM

#9024 4 months ago
Quoted from sizzler747:

Modfather pinball makes a few styles. https://modfatherpinball.com/collections/medieval-madness
I usually buy my pingulps from them but for this machine I went with one from another website. Don't remember where though.
[quoted image]

Darn if you remember let me know. I like that one compared to any from modfather

#9025 4 months ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Darn if you remember let me know. I like that one compared to any from modfather

I like these plain black ones from Pinball Life

75105CBE-C24E-475D-B14E-CE82C31E49BC (resized).jpegBDBF0EDB-304B-4D88-8965-7F4367127A0B (resized).jpeg
#9026 4 months ago

yeah I have the basic PBL v2 and v3's on all my games. But a custom one would be a nice touch!

#9027 4 months ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

I like these plain black ones from Pinball Life
[quoted image][quoted image]

Add a $3 AFM sticker from RedBubble and you’ve got a fancy drink holder for $15.

A8384DCF-956C-4589-B357-8AB13A30FE3B (resized).png
#9028 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Add a $3 AFM sticker from RedBubble and you’ve got a fancy drink holder for $15.
[quoted image]

Good idea but wrong game hehe

#9029 3 months ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Good idea but wrong game hehe

I just meant in general, it’s another option to customize a pin gulp. His cup is on AFM

0CD28AA3-E152-4CFD-B118-B425AE085759 (resized).jpeg

#9030 3 months ago

So sad...RIP LFS

20220126_200226 (resized).jpg
#9031 3 months ago

Listened to a podcast with Lyman; didn't realize you could get cows instead of children on catapult save the children. So I did it. Amusing, still didn't win. Darn it.

#9032 3 months ago

Question, I have an MMR LE and noticed that the coin door lights are really dim. I replaced them with Comet LED bulbs but then they dont work. I put the others back in and they work but are very dimly lit. Is this normal? Are all the Remakes this way?
Thank you for any help

#9033 3 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Question, I have an MMR LE and noticed that the coin door lights are really dim. I replaced them with Comet LED bulbs but then they dont work. I put the others back in and they work but are very dimly lit. Is this normal? Are all the Remakes this way?
Thank you for any help

Yeah it's dim. Mine at least the bulbs are not even that close or even pointed directly at the coin plastic. I guess if yours is the same you could try moving the lights around somehow.

#9034 3 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Question, I have an MMR LE and noticed that the coin door lights are really dim. I replaced them with Comet LED bulbs but then they dont work. I put the others back in and they work but are very dimly lit. Is this normal? Are all the Remakes this way?
Thank you for any help

Never really noticed. I guess much dimer than the start button. I think they look good tho.
Yours much dimmer than my pic? May be hard to tell, but the pic I took is pretty close to what they look like.

Cheers!
Richard

E4B9DEEA-13E6-4505-AAB2-5357BF98D554 (resized).jpeg
#9035 3 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Question, I have an MMR LE and noticed that the coin door lights are really dim. I replaced them with Comet LED bulbs but then they dont work. I put the others back in and they work but are very dimly lit. Is this normal? Are all the Remakes this way?
Thank you for any help

Be careful of the voltage on AFMr and MMr coin door leds. I believe they are 12v on the door, but double check that. I bought my MMr and it had a 6.3v bulb that was partly melted in the socket. I removed it and replaced with a 13v bulb and it works fine. Just make sure you don't put 6.3v bulbs in a 12-13v socket. I was very surprised they weren't 6.3 like most doors are.

#9036 3 months ago

Here is mine. They work but it must be a different voltage. The led bulb that is in there has a super small pinhole (i didn't put them in). I was trying to put Comet 6.3V bulb in and they wouldn't work. The only 13V LED bulbs i have are flashers

IMG_6634 (resized).jpg
#9037 3 months ago

IIRC start butttons are 12v, PBL, comet and CT all carry plain (non flashing) 12v, throw one in your next order! I need some as well

#9038 3 months ago

Correction, whatever bulb i put in will work but they are dimly lit. I also put a 13v flasher in and it was very dim.

#9039 3 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

I also put a 13v flasher in and it was very dim.

Flashers get hit with higher voltage.

Put a meter on your socket to find out what voltage bulb or LED you should use.

LTG : )

#9040 3 months ago

My MMR LE seems to be missing the gate in the Joust lane. (Pic below)

It does not appear to effect game play. What is its purpose? I do not see (or am just missing it) anything in the owners manual…

C4F753EB-2BC0-4D9B-A15F-3775968952FF (resized).jpeg

Edit: wrong thread…sorry. Think I will leave it anyway.

#9041 3 months ago
Quoted from matt68061:

My MMR LE seems to be missing the gate in the Joust lane. (Pic below)
It does not appear to effect game play. What is its purpose? I do not see (or am just missing it) anything in the owners manual…
[quoted image]
Edit: wrong thread…sorry. Think I will leave it anyway.

I think that gate pushes the ball to the ball guide so it doesn’t exit the next gate and go sdtm. Do you “need” it? Prob not, but may depend if you want your game to be all oem, or if you get sdtm balls from the pops and orbit

#9042 3 months ago

Anyone ever have issue with the leds in any of the inserts? I noticed within the last month or so that the 3 Lock insert is dim. Its odd though as it will work for a bit then get dim, then get brighter. Hoping its something easy, lifted the playfield and didn’t see anything out if the ordinary.

#9043 3 months ago
Quoted from YZRider926:

Anyone ever have issue with the leds in any of the inserts? I noticed within the last month or so that the 3 Lock insert is dim. Its odd though as it will work for a bit then get dim, then get brighter. Hoping its something easy, lifted the playfield and didn’t see anything out if the ordinary.

Edited yeah its leds mounted to a board. Could try opening a ticket with Chicago gaming they seem responsive.

#9044 3 months ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Could be one of those stupid bayonet bulbs. If so, take it out and open the wires up aroumd 90 segrees, make sure they align and are straight as well. Then reinsert. And hope for the best. Another trick is open the wires and wrap some electrical tape around the plastic then reinsert. Or the wires could just be too messed up and you need a new bulb.
Another issue is socket may have some problems.

I think these are surface mount 3 led banks.

#9045 3 months ago
Quoted from YZRider926:

I think these are surface mount 3 led banks.

I'd have to take a look as I don't recall what's under that area on MMR. It has been solid for me so far so haven't needed.

#9046 3 months ago

Have you tried re-seating the connectors on the board?

#9047 3 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Have you tried re-seating the connectors on the board?

Yeah ill have to try that. Looking at it last night nothing looked loose.

#9048 3 months ago
Quoted from YZRider926:Anyone ever have issue with the leds in any of the inserts? I noticed within the last month or so that the 3 Lock insert is dim. Its odd though as it will work for a bit then get dim, then get brighter. Hoping its something easy, lifted the playfield and didn’t see anything out if the ordinary.

I've had in the lock 3 insert. 1 Led always flash and light a bit from day one when any of the other locks light are on. Brighter when flashers go off on my LE. I've never been able to fix it. With any reseating. But it's not a huge issue. Someday I might dig deeper into the LEDs on the board.

#9049 3 months ago
Quoted from glpinball:

Could be one of those stupid bayonet bulbs.

I think the wedge bulbs are the ones with 2 exposed wires. Sometimes wedge sockets get pushed apart and need replacing, but prob not on MMr. Bayonet have the metal base with 2 little nubs.

#9050 3 months ago
Quoted from erak:

I've had in the lock 3 insert. 1 Led always flash and light a bit from day one when any of the other locks light are on. Brighter when flashers go off on my LE. I've never been able to fix it. With any reseating. But it's not a huge issue. Someday I might dig deeper into the LEDs on the board.

This is essentially what mine is doing in the same insert.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 49.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Bent Mods
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 45.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
13,750
Machine - For Sale
Chittenango, NY
There are 9,275 posts in this topic. You are on page 181 of 186.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, become a Pinside+ member!