Sorry one more question, Is this Manual which says version 1.2 the most up to date? I want to get it printed so I can familiarise myself with the game before getting one eventually in 2023 (plenty of time to study rules & settings)

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/manuals/MMR_Manual_Rev_1_2.pdf

Yes.

LTG : )

If your distributor is in the UK, they'd know best what to get and where.

LTG : )

Ok Thanks

This happened to me. The mounting screws that hold the switch in backed themselves out. I had to do some building a ship in a bottle maneuver to get them back in. Pain in the butt.

With the recent announcement of Kits being offered again soon (Topper, RGB, etc) - has anyone heard when these would be released? Are there any distributors that have a "notify me when available" option type thing to get an email?

Thanks

They are doing the kits again?!

Well that’s a little discouraging…what tools did you use to get it done?

Well I just got on the list for 2023. Can’t wait to join the club.

Was any pricing released for the 2023 run? The way things are going with new and used pricing…. Well…”you know.”

Also, did they mention any additional runs on Monster Bash or Attack from Mars tables/accessories?

Apologies if this info is out there… but some of you follow this much closer than others.

Thanks

Yes they said soon in the seminar

Awesome. I got mine as I saw the fomo coming. But damn I love the idea of doing kits for the games so you can get a classic and slowly upgrade.

Hoping they do a kit to upgrade the pop bumpers to RGB

They won’t release a kit for that. It is a lot of work and you need to modify a few existing parts.

Here is how to do it yourself:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/169#post-6237837

Here is the finished product:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed/page/169#post-6236571

Anyone know if the 2023 run will of se will have the rgb upgrade included? Or do I need to do it myself? I’d pay to have them upgrade it.

Yes. The SE's have the RGB lighting

Speaker Grills Stainless steel AFM/MB/MM XL

Hi!
I gote some mails if i would do a re-run for the stainless speaker grills for the versions with XL display

so i can offer

MB XL display version
AFM XL display version
MM XL display version

and
MM Classic version without the holes ( you can use small erathmagnets to mount it)

the price for 1 kit is 59$ shipped
the price for 1 kit is 105$ shipped

this is a group order, please send me a pm if you want to join

tom

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I have an MMr LE and I am trying to locate a list of rubber rings. I have scoured the manual and related MM manuals from all model years from original to most current remakes but cannot seem to locate a list. Can someone point me to such a list or if one doesn’t exist in the manual, has anyone amassed such a list that they’d be kind enough to share?

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/ check out the Titan ring database.

LTG : )

I have a CGC MMR LE and I'm looking to upgrade some things on it. The only upgrades I have done is add all cliffy protectors. What do you guys recommend for upgrades?

The CGC XL display is a must have.

If money ain’t no thang, all the cgc upgrades; xl display, rgb gi kit, topper, if you’re diy add rgb pop bumpers.

Didn't the LE come with that display from the factory?

Nope i have a remake LE and the display did not. The XL is an upgrade. The Royal editions did however.

I was confusing SE and LE.

Came across an extra rgb board if anyone is looking for one. Sold my game a while back after doing all of the upgrades. Pm with an offer. Not really sure what it's worth or if there is any use for it without the kits.

MMR was weird as it was the first vs afm that standardized the models etc.

Ok peeps….looking for some advice here. I own a MMR LE(2015 run with gold trim)that I have added all the royal upgrades on and am considering selling( I know, blasphemous!) Just curious what the ballpark values are for this model nowadays vs MMR classic (with the same upgrades/or without) vs MMR Royal per pinside. I have a number in mind, but wanted other opinions.

The game is in great shape and has been shopped out when I did the royal upgrades. Plays 100% and looks even better.

So what would your sell your MMR LE for IF you had too?

Here she is…..

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I would think 13500+ The royal will bring more money because it is a newer game . However I would say around there.

Got the metal speaker kit yesterday from @kapsreiter, easy install (5 mins), looks great!

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Apologize if asked previously -
1) how do you adjust sensitivity on hitting the trolls ? When first playing they were pretty sensitive - but now they take a good hit and sometimes no register of a hit. Is this a switch adjustment or a system adjustment ?

2) right troll suddenly quit popping up. Haven’t opened her up yet as I’ll try to fix #1 above at the same time but thought I’d ask if anyone else has had either issue ?

As usual - thanks LTG in advance.

For #1: You can raise the playfield, manually push up the trolls and then gently bend the switch contacts behind them to be closer to eachother. I did this on my machine and playing troll mode went from frustrating to enjoyable. It is not a difficult adjustment.
For #2, you can do solenoid test from menu to raise/lower trolls individually. Then debug from there.

Good luck!
Richard

I had a similar issue for #1 and the troll faces had become loose and were about to fall from the switch. Make sure they are on tight. It’s a hassle to tighten them.

Bend rear leaf blade a little closer.

Check if wires to coil are still on tight, then follow to driver board they are plugged onto and be sure that connector is on tight. If all good and it doesn't pop up in test. It's driver board. Leave connectors on board. Remove the screws holding it to the huge board under the playfield. Unplug the driver board from the huge board and then plug it back in, push the nubs of the ten pins that plug into the huge board to get a tight seat. Replace the screws.

People have had problems reseating the solenoid driver boards due to the huge board flexing away when they push in the pins. A solution that worked was having them put a piece of foam or cardboard between the playfield wood and the socket on the huge board, to hold it from flexing. They just have to be careful of nearby LEDs.

LTG : )

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Well that was a little easier said than done. As I had issues with the right one not popping up , I looked and one of the small screws holding the face on had come loose. To get at this I had to remove the full coil and then release the troll Mech from that shaft and take completely out

Got the screw back in and tightened both to keep the face back on. Checked the switch and it looked pretty close already.

Reassembled the right one and then adjusted the switch on the left side just by raising the troll up.

The right was was still not activating - Turns out that switch had bent closed - so it sensed this and never popped up. Adjusted it slightly open as the left one is now - and back in action.

Popping up as it’s supposed to and registering hits as it did before. Not too light of a hit but strong enough to make a troll growl !

All is well in the kingdom once again. Play on!

Under the playfield unhook the troll face connector. Remove the hex head thing holding the carriage to the plunger. Then wiggle the troll carriage up and out, lean to the left to clear the thing that triggers the up/down switch through the playfield.

LTG : )

Yep. Thought I had to remove the coil. But after that it was still not getting out of there. Then (and why don’t I just refer to the manual?). But realized the troll Mech was attached to the shaft with a thru bolt Finally figured it all out and she’s back in action

Question - for the troll face - luckily there was one screw still semi tight and one barely hanging on. Used a very small open face and got them both in and tight again but how in the world would you get to the back of the face to put those two screws in ?

Take the switch apart? Just glad I didn’t have to go further.

Weird one (left side ) was spaced too far open and one (right side) was spaced too far closed.

Remove troll carriage from game. Remove nut and plastic guard on front of troll carriage over the switch stack area. Cut cable tie ( remember where wire feeds through and it goes, or look at other troll assembly if you forget ). Remove two phillips head screws from troll face switch stack. Wiggle troll face switch stack out. Then it's easy to work on that little bastard.

Reassemble including tiny cable tie.

Have a beer.

LTG : )

Aha! That’s what I needed - a cold beer! Thanks again LTG!

Hi all,
I am attempting to update the code to 3.0 on my MMr LE. It keeps failing once it hits 81%. I have tried multiple micro SD cards, and two different computers to flash the cards. Am I missing something?

You didn't fail.

Turn game off. Remove micro sd card. Turn game on. Hold escape button and go into CGC menu, first page. Ta Da - 3.0 is in your game. All there, nothing missing.

LTG : )

That is it.

LTG : )

I moved my machines 800 miles. Despite my efforts to be very careful, I've had a few issues. My 1997 MM will not recognize the ball dropping through the Damsel, so Damsel Madness can never be activated. The switch test does not see the ball so it's just that the ball is not being recognized. I've got no local support here so I could really use suggestions on how to proceed.

Just a heads up, this is the remake thread, here is the thread for the original mm
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in

However, the switch itself probably just needs a visual inspection to make sure the wires are soldered to the legs still and it potentially could use an adjustment. I know Lloyd may of just spoke to someone about that same switch in this thread a page or few back.

Are you comfortable pulling the glass out and lifting the pf up all the way to the backbox so you can see the back of the playfield from the bottom side?

The damsel tower switch is mounted in the metal assembly inside the actual tower, only the cables are going out below the playfield. This is speaking about the original btw.

To get access to the switch you have to remove the right part of the castle wall (and probably the right ramp) then a few screws to remove the metal assembly with the switch on it.

Or the tower has shifted and the ball isn't getting to the switch at the bottom.

LTG : )

Does anyone know where I can buy a topper?Preferably at msrp price? Thanks

Check KingPinGames. They had some for $599.99. I’m not sure if they still do. If they are sold out, there is one other person who had a couple for the same $600 price. I bought one last month. If KingPin is sold out I’ll message you his contact info. He may be sold out too, I’m not sure.

I didn’t look and thought the ball dropped way lower, I played a game and realized it was not that far down. I don’t remember if the mm of slides out or just rotates but ya, find a way in there